Afghan Kitchen

The state of Afghan cuisine in the GVRD is pretty much limited to a few spots scattered here and there (mostly in the 'burbs though).  I've had fairly decent meals at Afghan Chopan and Afghan Bakery, but the most well-known of them all (also oldest in town), Afghan Horseman was a bit of a letdown.  More recently, my visit to Pamir Diner in Surrey yielded a surprisingly solid meal.  Recently, I finally made it out to South Surrey for the well-reviewed Afghan Kitchen to see if it could rival the aforementioned restaurants.

To get an idea of the menu, we went for the Triple Dip Taster consisting of Chilled Eggplant Essential Dip, Orange Hummus Re-imagined and Green Avocado Dream Dip served with Afghan Bread.  The best part of this was actually the fluffy bread.  Now this didn't mean that the dips weren't good.  In fact, they were tasty with the eggplant being delicate with little nuggets that provided texture.  As for the 2 types of hummus, I liked the orange more than the avocado since it had more impact.  Both were smooth and light though.  Somehow I missed the full description of the Happy Taster as it not only included batter-fried chicken bites, gold wedges and pakawras, there was also the very same dips as the aforementioned dish.  Oh well, we didn't mind more of it!  The kiddies really liked all the fried potato goodness on the plate.  On the other hand, the chicken nuggets were a little dry, albeit really crispy.

One of my favourite items was actually a very unassuming version of Bolani.  This usually consists of a flatbread stuffed with potato, herbs and spices.  I've had some that are stuffed far too much with green onion which completely dominates the flavour profile.  I was delighted to find that the filling in this one was fluffy potato with just the right complimentary amount of herbs (including green onion).  There was a balance of flavours to go with the delicate naan.  This was extra tasty when we used the side of hot sauce.  Equally delicious, the Mantu featured a thin translucent dumpling skin that sported appealing elasticity.  Inside, the minced beef and onion filling was loose and tender with a peppery finish.  These were topped with the usual tomato sauce and yogurt.  There was the earthiness of the cumin combined with the tang of the tomato which was eased by the cool yogurt.  Yummy.

The meat of the meal was exactly that as we ordered the Nights in Kabul consisting of 3 each of the chicken and beef kebab atop Afghan bread.  This was supposed to serve 4 people, but honestly, it could feed much more especially since it included sides (more on that later).  Back to the meat, it couldn't have been prepared any better as the chicken was juicy and the beef was barely medium.  As a result, the meats were succulent.  The only thing we would've liked to see was a bit more seasoning.  But that wasn't really a big issue as the spicy hot sauce rectified that and beyond.  If you want to enjoy the bread underneath, I would suggest you remove it immediately as it got rather soggy when we left the meat on top.  On the side, we found a large plate of Kabli Pulao with the familiar raisins, carrots, almonds and spices.  This was well-executed with fluffy and chewy basmati rice that was aromatic and sweet from the raisins.

In addition to the rice, we were also served  sides of Eggplant and Potato.  Nothing particularly interesting about these as the eggplant somewhat resembled the dip except it was hot and a bit more savoury.  The potato was soft and very mildly-seasoned.  On the other hand, the Kofta was a total 180 as the there was a noted spiciness  The meat patties were large and beautifully textured where the natural beefiness was present while still being super tender and moist.  If this looked like a lot of food, you are absolutely right.  It was far too much for the 4 adults and kids at the table, yet at the same time, not overpriced.  Not only is the food good at Afghan Kitchen, it is also well-priced.

The Good:
- Proteins cooked properly
- Large portions
- Nice people

The Bad:
- Kebabs could've been more flavourful on their own
- Service was friendly, but hard to flag someone down during peak times

The Red Accordion

Keeping up with all of the new restaurant openings can be very difficult, especially with some opening to little fanfare.  Add in the plethora of Asian restaurants that quietly open and close as well as changing names, this makes the exercise extra confusing.  Anyways, to get to the point, I had no clue that The Red Accordion had opened up shop since February in the old location of Forkhill Bistro (and before that, The Fat Badger and Le Gavroche).  If it weren't for the Burger Challenge, it would've taken me awhile to realize this and hence, Nancy and I wouldn't have been there for a meal (in addition to sampling the burger).

Prior to the burger, we had the "Play With Fire" Shishito Peppers with Spanish chorizo, onions, garlic, maldon salt and California olive oil.  Much like the Dorito's Roulette, I hit the jackpot with the first pepper as it was pretty hot, but at the same time, super flavourful and layered with flavours.  Loved the charring as there was an aromatic smokiness to go with the chorizo and activated onions and garlic.  Such a simple plate while at the same time addictive and great with a beverage.   Without any delay, we got right to the TRA Burger as we still had an appetite.  This consisted of Brandt Lake Waygu ground chuck, Mozza & jalapeño Havarti cheese, sun-dried tomato & roasted garlic aioli, arugula, crispy pancetta, beefsteak tomato, pickled red onion & home made bun and served with kennebec fries.  We added an egg for good measure and this burger required many napkins.  I found the burger patty to be very moist and meaty with lots of natural beef flavour.  There was an appealing combination of spice, aromatics and tang as well.  I did wish the bun would've been a bit softer since things slid out as a result.

Unlike the menu description, the featured Burrata was not accompanied by tomatoes.  Rather, we found a trio of foraged mushrooms within a smoked mushroom broth where the creamy burrata was sitting on top.  It was further amped by shaved black truffle and greens.  Served on the side was grilled toast baguette.  Normally, I much prefer some form of acidity with burrata, but this was still plenty tasty with lots of umami and aromatics.  The mushrooms were buttery and well-seasoned while the broth was quite mild.  I would've preferred a bit less broth as the whole dish became wet including the cheese.  Despite this, the dish was still quite delicious and the cheese went well with the crunchy charred bread.  Another daily feature was the Tempura Mexican Prawns which were absolutely humongous.   Coated with panko, it tasted like classic Chinese prawn toast.  In turn this went well with the sweet nuoc cham sauce underneath. Loved how the prawns were propped up with fried egg whites, which prevented them from getting soaked.

Other than the burger, our favourite dish of the meal was the Steamed Mussels and Fried Dough.  Featuring large honey mussels, they were cooked to perfection being plump and delicate.  They were naturally sweet and of course had the classic taste of the sea.  Sitting in an Asian-inspired broth consisting of lemongrass, ginger, tumeric, bok choy, shitake mushrooms, smoked paprika oil, tomato & coconut milk, it was super aromatic and plenty tasty for the fried bread to soak it all up.  About that fried bread, it was akin to bannock but with elements of Indian naan (pleasing elasticity and fluffiness).  It was excellent eaten on its own even without the broth.  Another on point dish was the Haida Gwai Humboldt Squid with lemon aioli, smoked salt and chimichurri.  Lightly coated, the squid was marginally crispy on the outside while plenty tender on the inside.  There was still a pleasing chewiness though.  The dish wasn't aggressively seasoned, but when all of the elements were combined, we found a bright creaminess that had some acidity.

From that, we ended off heavy with the Lobster "it's the claw" Gnocchi with lobster bisque, fennel, spicy rose, fresh herbs, potato gnocchi and claw meat.  This was super rich and it indeed tasted like a bisque with lobster essence, cream and booze.  I would say that for one person to finish this, it would be too heavy so it is best to be shared.  The gnocchi were relatively firm with a soft interior.  There was no shortage of lobster meat which was on point with a bounce and natural sweetness.  For dessert, we ended up trying the Chocolate Budino with dark chocolate, olive oil, maldon salt and orange essence pound cake.  The budino was super rich, yet not heavy at the same time.  Mildly sweet accented by the natural bitterness of the dark chocolate, the budino was complimented nicely by the semi-soft toasted slices of pound cake.  When we were done, Nancy and I exclaimed that The Red Accordion is a little gem that really needs more exposure.  Food is on point and the service is genuine. 

*The burger and one beverage were complimentary*

The Good:
- Menu is a bit all over the place, but somehow it works
- On point execution
- Genuinely nice people

The Bad:
- Some of the seating looks cool, but really isn't that comfortable
- Food is on the heavier side, so order accordingly

Jin Soo Sung Chan Korean

While we were making our way over to Mr. Tonkatsu a few months ago, we had to take the back route since making a left on 152nd is impossible going Southbound.  Normally, I wouldn't drive on 152A as it doesn't really go anywhere.  To my surprise, we found a few hidden restaurants with Sushi California being the most recognizable.  Right next to it was a Korean BBQ spot called Jin Soo Sung Chan, which wasn't an easy name to remember.  Yet, I did remember it in general when my daughter wanted to head out for her birthday dinner.  We ended up ordering the Deluxe Dinner for 5-6 people.

It included the usual Banchan with a small selection of bean sprouts, stewed potatoes, kimchi, pickled daikon and pickled onions.  Not particularly an impressive amount considering the newer spots in town offer more than double the variety.  Whatever the case, the banchan was good though where the potatoes were soft without disintegrating while the sprouts were crunchy and not drench with moisture.  I found the kimchi to be spicy enough but could've used more brininess.  There was also a Green Salad that was drenched in an orange dressing that looked almost like mango that we figured would've been really sweet.  Surprisingly, it was not, and in fact, tasted more like a Japanese ginger carrot dressing.  Nothing more to be said about this other than it was fresh with no browning on the leaves.

Considering that the Deluxe Dinner is $152.00, one would think that is expensive.  Alas, it was not as the plate of Meat was impressive to say the least.  There was more than enough for 6 people if not more. It included both types of beef short rib, chicken, pork chop, thinly sliced beef and beef steak.  I thought the overall quality of the meat was good where there was the right amount of fat.  This helped with not only keeping the meat moist and tender, it also built flavour and sizzle.  Marinade was typical sweet with a touch of saltiness, including the pork shoulder (no spicy pork here).  They were very generous with the short ribs as we got both cuts.  The one downer was the grill as was either too weak or too strong.  Somehow we weren't able to get the right setting where it would caramelize the meat without burning.

Also included in the meal was Soft Tofu Soup and Japche.  With only a few small shrimp, the soup base was a little weak in terms of depth in my opinion.  However, it was plenty spicy where if we drank it too quickly, it would invoke coughing.  There was plenty of soft tofu which was had a good mouth feel.  It came bubbling hot which enhanced the spiciness and was welcomed since it was a cold night.  As for the small plate of japche, it was quite good.  Despite not showing up in the picture, there was plenty of thinly sliced beef underneath.  The noodles were moist and not clumpy with an appealing chewiness.  I liked how this version wasn't overly sweet where there was a balance of flavours.  Moreover, the level of grease was low which was also quite remarkable since the noodles didn't stick together.

Lastly, the Steamed Eggs was as fluffy as it appeared.  However, it was also as watery as it appeared as well.  So we were a bit indifferent about it as some parts were good while others were not.  I understand why there is moisture in the hot stone bowl as the egg does cook really quickly, but this was just a bit too much water.  In the grand scheme of things, the egg was not a big deal as it wasn't terrible.  Furthermore, the amount of food we got for the price made this a good value.  Food quality was fine and the service was decent as well.  If I had the chance, I'd got back.

The Good:
- Well-priced
- They don't skimp with the meat
- Decent service

The Bad:
- We couldn't get the grill to cook at the right temp
- Parking spaces are limited

Hydra Estiatorio Mediterranean & Bar

Sometimes, our lives get so busy and complicated, we do not get a chance to hang out with friends.  Okay, let me rephrase that.  We do meet up with friends, but it is usually with family (aka with the kiddies), so it really isn't a night out.  So when Chill and Bubbly wanted to grab some dinner in Downtown on a Friday night, this was something out-of-the-blue.  In fact, we hadn't had dinner without the kids since we last ate at the long gone Cru on Broadway.  That was like 10 years ago!  LOL.  This time around, we decided to try out the new Hydra Estiatorio Mediterranean & Bar out on Pender near Chill's office.

Despite being very tempting, we decided to order a la carte rather than share their family-style meals (maybe next time).  Before, that we got a few appies including 1/2 Dozen of Oysters with the usual accompaniments.  We had 3 each of Royal Miyagi and Kushi oysters which were shucked expertly without any shell fragments.  Both were fresh and I really liked how they included a wide variety of sauces such as mignonette, horseradish, cocktail sauce and aioli.  Looking like they forgot to plate the rest of the dish, the Grilled Octopus made up with quality over quantity.  Retaining an appealing firmness, the octopus was tender to the chew.  It was mildly seasoned with lemon and oregano while served with a fava bean puree.  This was pretty good, but for not a whole lot for $21.00.

Next, decided on one of their many spreads served with pita bread being the Menta.  As expected, there was a natural mint flavour to the spread as well as tangy creaminess.  At first, we thought the bread was oversalted, but on further inspection, it was in fact the dip that was salty.  It wasn't a huge deal in my opinion, but for those who want more balance, they might've disliked this.  We decided to get one side which was the Charred Cauliflower with grated mizithra and green herb oil.  We really loved this as the cauliflower was cooked all-the-way-through while still crunchy and vibrant.  It was charred just like its description where the smokiness came through.  Unlike the spread, this was not overseasoned which allowed the herb oil to come through.

Onto the mains, I ordered the Lamb Chops with aged vinegar drizzle over oven-fried potatoes.  I personally love lamb and since Viv doesn't really eat it, I tend to get it whenever I have the chance.  This was a good decision as the 3 portions of lamb rack were cooked to medium and well-seared on the outside.  Again, the seasoning was mild while the aged vinegar was also not very apparent.  Moving away from the red meats, Viv decided on the pan-roasted Pacific Salmon with lemon dill sauce.  This was a simple creation that was executed quite well.  Featuring well-seasoned crispy skin, the salmon itself was flaky and moist except for the thinner section.  The lemon dill wasn't exactly super impactful, but it was there.  Once again, the protein rested on the same over-fried potatoes.

Chill didn't stray far from the regular and had the Beef Tenderloin.  He asked for it to be prepared medium rare and it was char-grilled perfectly.  The meat was moist, well-rested and tender.  This was finished with a braised garlic sauce which was either subtle tasting or possibly there was just wasn't enough of it.  Hence, the fairly well-seasoned meat stood on its own. The most impressive-looking plate was the Grilled Angus NY Steak Skewer ordered by Bubbly.  This mostly had to do with the side of fire-roasted veggies served on the same plate.  For everyone else, it was served separately.  We really enjoyed the layered dish of potatoes, onion, green pepper, eggplant and tomatoes.  However, it was overly greasy.  As for her skewer, it was prepared medium and sported a delicious char.  Meat was moist and completely tender. The tangy yogurt added a refreshing bite to the dish.

No one was really interested in dessert, but Viv and I decided to get the Cream of the Crop anyways.  It was beautifully plated and didn't eat as sweet as it appeared.  Lots of tanginess provided by the lemon curd hidden within the meringue flower.  It was surrounded by praline sponge, more lemon curd, berries and a side of mandarin & blood orange caramel.  Even after dousing the meringue with the caramel, the dessert was balanced where the various flavours were not dominated by sweetness.  Overall, we felt that the meal was pleasant where it was served in a gorgeous dining space.  Service was top-notch as well.  Price point is a bit high for the type of food though.

The Good:
- Nice dining space
- On point service
- Proteins prepared properly

The Bad:
- Prices are high for the type of food
- Some portion sizes could be slightly bigger

Cin Cin

It seems that we are often so focused on trying the latest and greatest restaurants, we don't remember the classics.  Take Cin Cin for instance.  Nearing 30 years in operation, their take on traditional Italian has won them an array of awards and many chefs (pastry chefs too) have made their name there.  Looking back at my blog, I haven't actually dined there in 6 years!  Lots have changed since then, yet at the same time, much of it is still the same.  That is music to my ears as I didn't necessarily want any change.  I guess I was going to find out along with Elaine, Costanza and Viv.

We wanted to get a little of everything on the menu, so we began with 3 appies including the feature of the day - Vitello Tonnato. Although pretty and colourful, I didn't think the greens on top were necessary to the dish.  However, once we got down to the thinly sliced medium veal, it was a pretty solid dish.  The meat was soft and didn't require much effort to chew.  On top, the random globs of tuna mayonnaise were creamy and had an impactful amount of fish flavour.  Sporting the same greens and dressed in a bright vinaigrette, the Fried Zucchini Blossoms were ever-so-delicate.  Golden-brown, the exterior was lightly crispy without much in the way of grease.  Inside, the filling of montasio and goat cheese was not as gamy as one would expect.  Rather, it was creamy and airy while mild-tasting.

Our last small dish was the Grilled Humboldt Flying Squid atop borlotti beans, chili and aioli.  Yes, on the side was the same arugula and radish salad found with the other dishes.  As clearly evidenced in the picture, the pieces of squid were beautifully and evenly grilled.  They were buttery with a satisfying chew.  There was enough inherent seasoning for the squid to stand on its own.  For some odd reason, I really loved the tender beans underneath.  I couldn't stop eating them!  We ended up with one pasta being the Casarecce with spicy chorizo sausage, tomato, chili, rosemary and parmesan.  This didn't look all that impressive at first.  In the end, it ate really well with firmly al dente pasta bathed in a low-rumbling spiced creamy tomato sauce with plenty of meaty chorizo.  This was full of texture and body.

Now that was good, but the Wood Grilled Sea Scallops with Acquerello Risotto was even more impressive.  Sporting 4 large perfectly medium-rare buttery scallops, this was already good even before we got to the risotto.  However, the creamy and cheesy rice with chive oil and fava beans was full-flavoured while sporting chewy grains.    This was finished off with a crispy and nutty  parmesan lace.  For our first main, the Veal Osso Buco was surprisingly large.  Size is one thing, but it was actually very well-executed.  The meat fell off the bone while still retaining a bite.  Consisting of white wine and tomato, the sauce sported a light tanginess to go with plenty of umaminess.  The side of saffron risotto was just as good as the previous dish where the grains were chewy and the amount of saffron was enough to create an aromatic impact.

One of the more interesting dishes was the Chicken with Nduja.  Normally, I stay away from chicken dishes, but Mijune recommended that I order it.  Good call as the chicken was super moist while the skin was nicely rendered.  In between the skin and the meat was a substantial layer of meaty and spicy nduja.  This was more than enough to bring the chicken alive while adding a touch of fattiness.  Okay, the picture of the Whole Branzino didn't turn out so you will have to imagine how good it looked with the deboned picture.  Moist and slightly smoky from the grilling, the branzino sported natural sweetness.  Acidity from the lemon helped brighten things up.  The side of German butter potatoes was nutty, crispy and pillowy soft inside.  This was also an accompaniment with the chicken.

Our last courses consisted of the Yogurt Panna Cotta and Tiramisu. It is no secret that I prefer lighter desserts and the panna cotta was right up my alley.  Texturally, it was on point with a certain firmness giving way to pillowy softness.  It was slightly tangy and not overly sweet while the pistachio namelaka, elderflower gel and marinated oranges provided aromatics and acidity.  The tiramisu was pretty classic and there was nothing wrong with that.  There was enough espresso punch for effect without being too strong, while the creamy marscapone wasn't too sweet.  Very balanced with no theatrics with the plating - straightforward and delicious.  That pretty much sums up our recent experience at Cin Cin.  It may not have the modern decor of some of the newer spots.  Neither does it necessary wow you with any gimmicks.  However, what you do get is a classic experience with good food and great service.

The Good:
- Properly executed proteins
- Solid all around
- Attentive service

The Bad:
- You'll have to pay for it (consider the location and the experience)
- Maybe a bit too much repetition with the greens

Locus Restaurant & Lounge

Recently, I was invited to try the updated menu at Locus Restaurant & Lounge.  For reference purposes, I did a quick look at my blog to see when the last time I had visited the place.  Wow, I haven't been back since 2013!   That was with the team after we had finished hockey on a late Friday night.  This time around, I brought the family out instead to sample their dinner menu.  As a bonus, our reservation was during their happy hour, so we were able to sample some of the items off that menu as well.

To kick things off, we chose 3 of the options on their happy hour menu including the Flaming Cheese featuring fried Kasseri in a cast iron skillet.  Similar to the Greek dish saganaki, this also came with grilled house-made focaccia, lemon garlic aioli and a lemon wedge.  The kids really enjoyed this as the melted cheese was nutty and sported crispy parts.  Add in the squeeze of lemon and this ate less heavy as the acidity lightened things up.  Bread was nicely toasted so it stood up the cheese.  Also plated in a cast iron skillet, the Cocktail Meatballs made with local ground chuck were accompanied by Argentinean
chimichurri, roasted grape tomatoes and grana padano.  The first thing that we noticed was the meatiness of the meatballs . This was because they didn't overprocess the beef.  The meat itself was natural tasting where the key to the dish was the tangy tomatoes along with the bright chimichurri.

I'm sure for most people, Deep Fried Brussels Sprouts are not really a new thing on restaurant menus these days.  So when this dish was recommended to us, I was skeptical that it would be any different than all of the others around.  I was wrong as this one featured black lavender honey which added a floral sweetness to the salty grana padano and roasted fried essence of the brussels sprouts.  The resulting colour was a bit odd, but it was appealingly sweet and aromatic.  Our last appie was the Jumbo Tiger Prawns with Pernod-infused fish nage, caramelized fennel and spinach.  This was a subtle dish where the flavours were not very pronounced, but definitely apparent.  Aromatic and slightly sweet, the "broth" didn't overwhelm the prawns, which were cooked perfectly exhibiting a meaty snap texture.

Onto our mains, Viv went for the Vancouver Island Ling Cod and Newfoundland Scallops plated atop an aggressive splash of beet puree.  This was a substantial dish with properly-prepared veggies topped with a piece of halibut.  The fish was cooked nicely where it wasn't dry while topped with a tangy and sweet mango pineapple chutney.  As much as the scallops were tender, they stood to have a more caramelization on the outside.  My daughter decided on the pan-fried Piave Gnocchi with wild & cultivated mushrooms, cranberry chutney, black kale, sweet peas, parsnip crema and piave vecchio shavings.  The dish featured large pillowy soft cheesy nuggets of gnocchi that were lightly seared.  I found the parsnip puree to be a nice creamy compliment while the kale and mushrooms provided a non-overwhelming presence on the plate. 

Once again, my son didn't deviate far from his favourites going with the 7oz grass-fed BC Brisket Chuck Burger with bacon, tomato, organic mixed greens, red onion, smoked cheddar, smoked paprika aioli and dill pickle on a potato bun.  Sporting a moist natural meaty texture, the patty was thick and nicely seared.  The bun was soft enough that it didn't dominate, yet while still holding together until the very end.  On the side, the house-cut fries were perfectly golden brown and crispy.  Interestingly, this was also served with a side salad in addition to the fries.  Loved tangy fruity dressing that came with it.  For myself, I went the 7 oz grass-fed Filet Mignon with merlot demi-glace, garlic mashed potatoes and veggies.  I know this sounds clichéd but the steak couldn't have been prepared any better (medium-rare).  It was succulent and properly rested.  I found the demi-glace to be flavourful with a delicious tanginess.  Veggies were also excellent being cooked just enough and seasoned properly.

For dessert, we had both the Cinnamon Sugar Churros with Nutella and the Chocolate Lava Cake.  As much as the churros were delicate and tender, we would've liked them to be crispier and also there was a bit too much sugar on the outside.  Loved the side of Nutella as it provided a different flavour other than the cinnamon sugar.  When we ordered the lava cake, we were informed it would take awhile since they do not have a microwave.  We we more than happy with that since a legit baked lava cake is so much better than a microwaved one!  Rich and not overly sweet with a nice bitter finish, the lava cake was more lava than cake.  My daughter didn't mind one bit and dusted it off.  Overall, we enjoyed our meal at Locus and wondered why it took me so long to come back.  Seeing how they have a new chef who has only been at the helm for one month, the general execution is impressive.  

*Food and drink were partially complimentary, tips were extra*

The Good:
- Proteins are properly prepared
- Portion sizes are fairly large
- Good variety on the menu

The Bad:
- Churros could be crispier with less sugar