Published on Main

Here I am at Published on Main once again.  This is one of my favourite restaurants in Vancouver that include AnnaLena, Elem, Elisa, June and L'Abattoir.  Back in 2022, Published was bestowed the honour of being #1 on the list of Canada's 100 Best Restaurants.  I wholeheartedly agreed with that sentiment given that their OG menu items were on point and beautifully-plated.  For the next 2 years (2023 and 2024), Mon Lapin in Montreal was awarded #1.  I actually visited Mon Lapin in 2023 and despite being delicious, I wasn't sure if it was truly #1.  In 2025, it is now Pearl Morissette in the Niagara region being touted at #1.  Spoiler alert, I made my way out to their converted barn situated on a farm restaurant in June.  That will be posted soon.  For now, this is just my latest visit to Published, which currently sits #9 on the list.

So we started with one of our favs in the Chips & Dip.  This menu staple was missing from the menu the last time we were here since they could not source the right potatoes.  Good call because if it isn't up to specifications, take it off the menu!  With this version, I found the chips to be a bit thinner and lighter than before.  No matter, still really tasty potato chips (which were salted just right).  As for the smoked fish dip, it was creamy, chunky and full of smokiness and dill.  A seemingly simple item, but a must order.

We had the refreshing Dungeness Crab next with a cute crab on top.  The delicate crab sat atop some preserved tomatillo and was surrounded by cornichons, green olives, sungold tomatoes and sea asparagus with some fennel fronds.  All of this was finished off with a clarified gazpacho.  Lots of natural tomato flavour and brightness in this dish.  More tomato came in the form of Pan con Tomate on the side.  The bread was crunchy and a bit smoky while the tomato was bright, fresh and full-flavoured.

We them moved onto an OG menu item that has been there from the beginning - the Aebleskiver.  These pancake balls are unassuming but utterly delicious.  A bit crispy on the outside and plenty soft and pancakey inside, these were filled with stewed herbs. Full of aromatics and umami, these were tasty by themselves but ultimately, the herb emulsion completed the dish.  It was creamy and subtle, giving some much needed moisture to the Aebleskivers.

Just like the chips & dip, another must-order for me is the Kentucky Fried Maitake.  At first glance, one might assume these fried mushrooms are heavy and dense.  That would be completely wrong as these were lightly crispy and almost light as a feather.  The coating was beautifully seasoned with enough salt, pepper and spices.  However, the garlic scape ranch on the side was not just for show, it was creamy and bright with a slight sharpness.

Of course we need to get some veggies into this meal and we did with the Badger Flame Beets with golden beets.  Visually-appealing, the beets were sweet and a bit earthy while sitting on a tasty paste comprised of lemongrass, black vinegar and miso.  That really gave the dish a kick in the pants with sweet tang, brightness and rich fermented saltiness.  The whole thing was topped with shiso and sunflower seeds for extra herbaceous hits and texture.

We continued the vegetable theme with the Hispi Cabbage.  At first, the dish didn't look all that exciting, but we shouldn't judge a book by its cover right?  Well, the cabbage was excellent being firm, but cooked through and charred while dressed in a hazelnut mole and sat atop mucho macha salsa.  If you can imagine, this was a flavour bomb of nuttiness, earthiness, sweetness, bitterness and a touch of spice.  To finish the dish, we found some pickled onions and serranos which added crunch, mild heat and more tanginess.

The veggies didn't stop there as we also go the Summer Squash.  The slices raw zucchini were neatly arranged atop a tabbouleh salad.  Mixed within it, we found roasted squash and pickled patty pan squash and herbs. It was dressed in mega miso which was of course, full of rich fermented umaminess.  The delicate texture of the squash was still noticeable amongst the other ingredients while the raw zucchini on top (with lemon dressing) provided a bright bitterness.

I long for the days when the scallops with apple was on the menu, but the Roasted Scallop with sweet corn, 'nduja and lobster mushrooms sounded quite good.  In fact, it was excellent.  The scallops were seared beautifully with the centre still rare.  Hence it was naturally sweet with the extra caramelization on the external surfaces.  With enough savoury elements and a touch of spice from the 'nduja, the sweet corn was able to compliment the already sweet scallops in a balanced manner.

One dish that I was indifferent about was the English Pea Tortelli.  This really tasted how it appeared.  It was very green with the lovage being dominant in the pistou.  I'm sure that was intentional, but for me, I didn't get much of the peas. The pasta itself was firm and al dente, but it was a bit thick in my opinion.  Hence, it was dense and not delicate.  I did like the pickled ramps as it helped deviate from all of the green flavours.  Some added crunch on top was appreciated.

Moving along to the meat portion of the meal, we had the Sticky Pork Ribs.  These were fall-off-the-bone tender while retaining a meat texture.  It was glazed with a pickled fermented fig BBQ sauce which was money.  It was sweet, tangy and had a little something something.  On the side, we found a summer beans and sungold tomatoes dressed in a Maggi dressing.  I believe I've had this dressing summer beans last year and it was great!  Nicely emulsified, the dressing was creamy and full of umami and saltiness.

In addition to the ribs, we added the Summer BBQ Beef for good measure.  The tender slices of beef were meaty and quite lean.  It was slathered with a lacto paprika BBQ sauce which was savoury more than sweet with some tanginess and definite paprika vibes.  Underneath, there was some cheesy semolina grits where it was surrounded by spicy and crunchy brassicas in a calabrian garlic sauce.

Of course we had to get dessert right?  We went for the classic (from day one) Hay featuring aerated hay custard.  That light and barely there custard was mildly sweet and nutty.  It was complimented by the green apple granita as it provided that burst of tangy sweetness as well as a hit of cold.  The floral nature of the chamomile was also present.  Beyond the pretty flower petals, we had some crispy meringue to add some needed texture.

  

So our second dessert happened to be the newest dessert in the Elderflower featuring a rose curd on the bottom with an elderflower mousse and a yogurt sorbet with honey lemon verbena.  This was an appealing mix of floral, tangy and sweet with contrasting textures between the creamy curd and light mousse and firm top.  As per usual, when they bring you the bill, it includes some final bites in housemade jellies and caramels.  Once again, it was a fantastic meal at Published on Main.  It truly earns its place in the top 10 of Canada's 100 Best Restaurants and I personally believe they should stay there.  However, I still reminisce about the OG menu where they got to the top of the list.  Maybe one day they will get there again.

The Good:

- Solid meal with some surprising flavours

- The classic dishes kept on the menu are excellent

- Just enough service that it isn't obtrusive

The Bad:

- I did enjoy the meat dishes, but they do not hit the highs of the ones I've had in the past 

 

Elem

Yes, here we are with another visit to Elem.  It was a long time coming because it was supposed to be in May.  It was for my mother's birthday, but she got sick and we had to postpone it to June.  This would be the first time that she and my kids got to try Elem.  Moreover, I haven't been to Elem since they made Canada's 100 Best Restaurants list.  Congrats to them and I know they are working hard to be better every day.  I think this is my 6th visit?

Like every other meal we've had here, it all starts with their Rye Bread with butter.  This time, it was black garlic butter and there was definitely the sweet umaminess combined with the usual creaminess.  Love the bread here, so soft and fluffy but having a chew to them as well.  Next, we had the Glorious Organics Salad with magnolia vinaigrette, radish and toasted nuts.  I'm not much of a salad person, but this was a good way to get some fresh and crisp greens into the meal while having some really apparent texture with the crunchy nuts.

One of the daily features was the Morels stuffed with spot prawn mousse in a lemon garlic mouseline sauce with morel broth.  As you can imagine, the morels were at the forefront of this dish and there was intense umaminess.  Texturally, each morel had the classic sponginess giving way to a delicate, sweet and bouncy filling.  The sauce was also spiked with morel woodsiness and had plenty of aromatics and creaminess.

Okay, what can I say about the Dungeness Crab Toast that I haven't already stated?  I've had this every meal at Elem and it never disappoints.  Of course, this time was no different.  The ample amount of fluffy and sweet crab sat atop milk bread surrounded by lemongrass ginger foam.  There was a good contrast of texture between the crab and the crispy toast.  Moreover, the light airiness of the sauce matched well with the crab. Naturally, the SE Asian flavours of the sauce make the dish with the aromatic brightness of lemongrass.

We also had the Carrots and the Grilled Lamb Skewers where I was elated to to have the latter.  You see, most people I dine with do not like lamb.  However, the lamb skewers here at Elem are fantastic.  With a good mix of meat and fat, the skewers were succulent and tender.  They were nicely paired with the thick and tangy labneh and sweet date glaze.  Nice crunch from the buckwheat on top.  As for the carrots, they were sweet and earthy while atop whipped miso tofu.  This was good, but I probably would not order them again.

This time with the fam, I didn't go too extreme with the cocktails and only had two of them.  Both were on the "Fifth Dimension" supplemental menu.  The first was the Black Sesame Whiskey Sour with peanut butter washed Shelter Point whiskey, black sesame paste and egg whites.  Definitely aromatic and nutty with the hit of lemon to keep things bright.  The other was the Wild Rose Daiquiri with earl grey rum, wild rose cordial, lime and curry leaf oil.  This was the stronger of the two, yet at the same time, went down easy.  This was partly due to the sweetness offered up by the cordial.  At the same time, there was some tang form the lime and earthiness of the curry leaf oil.  If I had to choose between the two, I would take the latter.

It seems like every culture has a version of fried chicken, so why not have Indian Fried Chicken?  This version featured large thigh pieces that were coated in a crispy, but light batter.  Inside, the meat was juicy and super tender.  Underneath, we found a butter chicken sauce which was well-balanced with a touch of spice.  I found it creamy, but not heavy while having a muted tanginess.  Topping it off, we found a few blistered shishitos.

I'm glad they kept the Roasted Brussels Sprouts on the menu because as simple as it may seem, the dish is delicious.  Firm, but cooked through, the sprouts were tender and nicely roasted.  The pops of sweetness was provided by the sultana raisins while there was some balancing acidity from the pear agrodulce.  As per usual, we also added the Barbecue Chicken Fried Rice topped with a sunny side egg.  Beyond the chewy texture of the rice and the nutty caramelization, there was tang and spice from the house kimchi.  Yet, the proverbial cherry on top was the chili crunch on the side.  This made the rice with nuttiness, crunch, smokiness and a bit of spice. 

For our pasta dish, we had the stunning Short Rib Scarpinocc beautifully plated with fresh spring peas and pickled rhubarb.  This sat in a lightly creamy beurre blanc sauce that was not heavy with perfect balance of sweetness with a touch of acidity.  The sweet peas added bursts of flavour while the rhubard provided extra tanginess and a bit of crunch.  The pasta itself was appealingly firm with tender and intensely savoury short rib.

Moving onto our meat course, we had the Dry-Aged Duck.  This consisted of a succulent duck breast which was cooked perfectly as well as duck leg with fall-apart meat.  Both featured rendered skin which were glazed with sweet prunes.  Underneath, we found a duck jus that was full of umami and sweetness.  Also on the plate, we found a braised shallot that was finished off some broiling.  It provided even more sweetness to the dish.

We ended up with some desserts including the Nemesis Cake and Popcorn.  I've had both of these before and that cake was fantastic.  This time around, it was just like I remembered.  It was rich and creamy with the slight bitterness of dark chocolate at the forefront with mild sweetness.  The vanilla miso ice cream on the side added some saltiness while the tarragon wafer provided crunch and subtle licorice vibes.  A nicely balanced and composed dessert.  As for the popcorn, it is a whimsical dessert, where it really did taste like aromatic sweet popcorn.  Totally intentional because it is supposed to emulate the flavours of Chicago mix.  So therefore, that is why we found cheddar on top while sitting on a corn mousse & foam with caramel sauce.  Very light and airy dessert that wasn't too heavy.

Our third dessert was a new one back when we had it in June.  The Piña Colada  Baba au Rum Cake was quite balanced.  I've had rum cake before that it was so strong, I could barely eat it.  This had a hint of it where the soaked cake was moist and semi-sweet.  We found some chewy pineapple bits that added concentrated sweetness and texture.  Tangy black lime crema offered up some tangy bitterness.  Lastly, there was some pandan coconut ice cream which was floral and purposefully sweet.  Along with the bill, we had one more small bite in the White Chocolate with lemon zest.  These were creamy and of course sweet, yet not as much as I would've expected from white chocolate.  So there we are, another delicious meal at Elem with a few new dishes that go off in different directions.  That is the concept with Elem as there are influences from around the world (both food and beverages) in a metropolitan space with Michelin-worthy service.

The Good:

- Thoughtfully-conceptualized dishes

- Good ambiance as per usual

- Great service as per usual

The Bad:

- The bill can get up there, but nothing is inexpensive these days

Crab Hot Lau

I finally made it out to Crab Hot Lau.  Yes, it took me this long.  Like, it has been in operation since 2021, so that makes it 4 long years that I've seen their signature Crab Spring Rolls grace social media.  Originally, the owner was making these spring rolls and other Northern Vietnamese specialties during the pandemic in 2020 where people would be putting in orders for them.  It got so popular, she figured that running an actual B&M restaurant would be the best course of action.  Despite some reservations and warnings from the previous owner of where Crab Hot Lau sits now, she went full steam ahead.  Great move, because they have done quite well and are in the process of opening more locations!

Seeing how Mijune was about to pop, I met up with her for some lunch before she became a mom!  We started with the Pâté Mini-Breadsticks which were stuffed a with delicious meat spread which was smooth, sweet and savoury.  There was also some pork floss for extra texture and sweet meatiness.  The bread itself was firm, but not heavy.  We also had the Green Papaya Beef Jerky Salad.  In addition to the beef jerky on top, we found some slices of liver too.  Nice add as it provided body and texture.  As for the salad itself, things were fresh and crunchy.  Nice tang and sweetness with the usual brininess of fish sauce.

Here we are, the famed Crab Spring Roll from Crab Hot Lau!  This thing was gigantic, stuffed full of tender pork, wood ear and of course whole leg portions of crab.  Beyond the obvious briny sweetness of the crab and umami from the pork, this spring roll was all about textures.  We had the super shattering crunch of the rice paper wrapper with the fluffiness of crab and meatiness of the pork.  Combined with the herbs on the side and some spiced nuoc cham, I could've had a few of these myself!

 

Another delicious appie we had was the Ha Long Squid Cake.  This also came with a side of sticky rice and sweet & sour dip.  They don't mess around with this one as the squid is shipped by air from Ha Long Bay!  It is hand-pounded to create a springy and bouncy texture.  I loved the light and crispy fried exterior and the natural, but subtle squid flavour.  Definitely needed the sweet & sour for some added impact.  With a bit of sticky rice, it added a different texture and rice nuttiness.

 

By default, we had to also try the Northern Style Phở Dặc Biệt.  In terms of the basics, this was similar to Southern Style, except the brisket was sliced differently and the soup was more clean.  However, I still found it rather flavourful and meaty. Hence, it was did taste more like the Southern style to me.  As for the noodles, Northern employs the wider flat version.  Also, the typical condiment was at the table in the form of garlic vinegar.

 

Now the Phở was good, but we had to get their signature bowl in the Hai Phong Crab Noodle Soup.  This featured wide red rice noodles which were firm and nicely chewy.  The broth was full of umami with the sweet brininess of crab while being properly seasoned. It was balanced without being too much of one particular taste.  In addition to the fish cake and golden crab roe, we found pork wrapped in lolot.  I'm familiar with the beef version, but this was the first time trying pork.  It pretty much ate the same with the meat being a bit more bouncy and tender.  Really solid bowl of noodles.

We also had a beverage in the form of the Cà Phê Trứng or Egg Coffee and it was fantastic.  Beyond the richness of the coffee itself, the creamy egginess of the foam and sweetness from the condensed milk helped tempered the strong coffee. I really enjoyed drinking this.  For dessert, we had the Thai Sweet Soup with house-made jellies with a side of whipped durian.  Again, this was delicious with a balanced sweetness and lots of chew textures.  The coconut milk was fragrant and adding the durian really amped up the flavours with the unmistakable sweet funkiness.  Gotta say this was a delicious meal where the quality of the food was apparent.  Prices are definitely on the higher side though as a result.  Worth it for me at least and I will be coming back.

The Good:

- Those crab spring rolls!

- The Hai Phong Crab Noodle

- Quality stuff

The Bad:

- Prices are on the higher end

Dessert Artisanaux

Although there are a decent amount of Chinese dessert spots in town, I feel there aren't that many that truly stand out.  I guess Snackshot would be one that is fairly memorable partly due to their unique-looking desserts (such as the Mahjong one).  There is Blackball, which I've been to many times before.  It is fine and I have no problem going there too.  One of the busier spots is Tina Cakes on Kingsway, which I've been to twice without blogging about it (not sure why I haven't), but there is a newer spot nearby called Dessert Artisanaux.  They are constantly busy and their stuff ain't cheap.  Well, I drop by 2 times and yes, I'll blog about it!

The thing to get here is the Mochi Pistachio Paste.  I've had this twice and it is so texturally pleasing due to the soft spoonable mochi.  It is super delicate and has a great mouth-feel.  Beyond that, the bright green pistachio paste is nutty, sweet and aromatic.  It compliments the mochi well since it is not overpowering.  It allows the natural sweetness of the mochi to come through.  Some chopped pistachios add some crunch and extra nuttiness.

They have a pretty solid Pomelo Mango Sago here.  It is lightly creamy, purposefully sweet and refreshing.  Now that gets kicked up a few notches with the Coconut Jelly Noodles and Mini Glutinous Rice Balls with Mango Pomelo Sago.  Yes, that is a mouthful, but when eaten, it is truly a mouthful!  Beyond the good parts of the basic version, this one has the creamy coconut jelly noodles.  This adds aromatics and more sweetness.

If you think that is a mouthful, try the Taro ball, Taro, Coconut Jelly Noodles,Sago,Peach Gum,Mini Glutinous Rice Balls with Coconut Milk.  Yah, this has everything but the kitchen sink and well, it is quite good mainly due to the creamy and nutty taro paste.  Combining it with the aromatic coconut noodles, we have a lot of flavours going on.  The chewiness of the mochi balls and peach gum add more texture and believe it or not, this isn't all that sweet either.

The Taro with Coconut Milk Black Glutinous Rice is also aromatic with the same creamy taro paste and sweet coconut milk.  We have chewy black glutinous rice that offers up its own sweetness and texture.  You can order anything in a takeout container if you wish, so you can take anything you don't finish home.  We did that because we order lots!  Overall, the desserts here are good and there are many choices on the menu.  Prices are on the higher side though, but as you can see, I have been here more than once.  That means, I will be coming back for more...

The Good:
- Lots of choice
- Above average
- Not too sweet

The Bad:
- A bit expensive
- Needs more servers
- Parking is a bit difficult at times

Belgard Kitchen (Tasting Menu)

It's been awhile since I have been back to Belgard Kitchen.  Last time, we enjoyed a delicious brunch while admiring the high ceilings and rustic decor.  I always knew they had a solid dinner service where recently, they have begun offering a Tasting menu for only $65.00.  Now your YMMV (your mileage may vary) on how much you save dependent on which dishes are served.  Besides, their regular menu is quite reasonable to begin with.

So the meal started off with an Amuse Bouche with a Carrot Granita with a coconut citrus cream on top.  This frozen little bite(s) was truly refreshing with the sweetness of the carrots pairing well with the aromatics of the cream.  Being a wine bar, we decided to order from the Vancouver Urban Winery selection (as they are in the same space) with a White and a Rosé.  I couldn't wait to try the white, so that is why there is less than the other.  It was very light and fruity almost like a riesling, but not as sweet.  The rosé was also light with a few background fruit notes that were refreshing, great for a Summer's day.

The first dish to arrive was actually a board of Charcuterie.  This featured salami, coppa, manchego, aged cheddar, mushroom bacon paté, olives, pickles and grilled bread.  I thought it was the perfect amount for 2 people.  Of course, the board would be larger for more guests doing the tasting menu.  I found the grilled sourdough to be fantastic with a buttery crispiness yielding to a soft and chewy interior.  It paired well with the creamy paté and its salty smoky umaminess.

With so many beet salads roaming around on menus these days, how did Beets by Belgard stand out?  Well, I'm happy to report that this was one memorable version.  Sitting on a bed of house lemon ricotta, the sous vide earthy beets were balanced off by a creamy tanginess.  With some pickled beets, we got more acidity and sweetness (and some crunch).  But the best thing was the smoked beets, as they really added depth.  We got some more texture with the candied walnuts.

Another dish that is widely available but rarely executed properly is a risotto.  Once again, the kitchen here nailed it with the Hokkaido Scallop Risotto.  The arborio rice was cooked masterfully with a chewiness that was perfect.  It was creamy and the smoked scallop butter afforded briny and sweet aromatics.  Drops of black garlic pureé upped the umami of the dish as well as some tanginess.  Of course we can't forget about the plump scallops...  They were buttery, soft and nicely seared.  The inside was a little rare, just like it should be.

Onto the other large dish, we had the Arctic Char in beurre blanc with tarragon oil.  There was also a pea pureé and compressed cucumbers.  I found the fish itself to be cooked properly being moist and flaky with crispy well-seasoned skin.  The silky and nutty beurre blanc complimented the fish well by letting it be the star.  With sweetness and some liquorice background notes  by the tarragon oil.  It provided something extra to the sauce.

For our side, we had the Roasted Broccolini with gremolata and toasted sunflower seeds.  First off, the broccolini itself was fresh and appealing.  It had a nice crunch and natural sweetness.  It was roasted just enough without impacting its crunch.  However, it did intensify the vegetably sweetness.  The addition of a gremolata mean there was some bright garlickiness present.  Extra texture and nuttiness was thanks to the sunflower seeds.
 

For dessert, we were served the Black Forest S'mores with torched meringue, chocolate mousse, sour cherries and sour cherry sorbet.  Nicely deconstructed version of the classic and loved the use of pressed and crispy sourdough as the "cracker".  That sour cherry added so much flavour and brightness to the dish.  As a bonus, we got to try the Basque Cheesecake with guava wine sauce.  As you can see, this was a nice-looking Basque cheesecake.  Texturally, it was firm, but fluffy at the same time.  It was creamy and mildly sweet with the cheese coming through.  The wine sauce was fabulous having the wonderful flavour of guava with only a bit of wine essence.  As you can see, the food at Belgard is carefully prepared, thoughtful and plated nicely.  Furthermore, it tasted great.  For $65.00, the tasting menu is a good value.

*All food and beverages were complimentary for this blog post*

The Good:
- Approachable prices
- Well-prepared eats
- There is a level of refinement here

The Bad:
- Tasting menu vs a la carte, prices are quite close except you get dessert included