On my recent trip to Seattle for the purposes of getting my PNWBA BBQ Judge Certification (yes, that is a real thing), Grace and I decided to stop by an Ethan Stowell restaurant. Deciding between the 12 of them was a difficult decision, but we finally settled on How to Cook a Wolf out on Queen Anne. Luckily we made a rez even though we arrived after 9:00pm as the place was still pretty busy. The menu was pretty simple consisting of items to share from small-to-large. We ended up doing 4 of them between the 2 of us.
Beautifully plated and vibrant in appearance, the Hamachi Crudo ate as good as it appeared. The slices of hamachi were buttery while still retaining a fresh meatiness. Although naturally sweet, the hamachi was dressed with a blood orange granita with sorrel and apple. Hence the flavors were further enhanced by a sweet tanginess accented by the bright tartness of the sorrel. Adding texture to the dish was the apple and crispy puffed rice. From light, we went to heavy with the Seared Pork Belly with romesco, green onion puree, charred spring onion and crispy lemon. We found the belly to be meaty and buttery with a crispy exterior. It was well-seasoned while exhibiting a rich roasted flavor. There was a noticeable spice and tang to the romesco sauce which was accented by the caramelized onions as well as the bright puree.
Continuing on with meat, we had the Grilled Hanger Steak prepared a beautiful medium-rare. It was served with wilted leeks, mint gremolata, peas and fennel. Since it was cooked to the desired doneness, the meat was relatively tender (for hanger steak) and full-flavoured (also since it was hanger steak). The pop from the peas were appealing and sweet, however, we felt the dish could've benefited from more lemon in the gremolata though. We ended off with the Conchiglie with pork sausage, tomato, kale and grana padano. The pasta was firmly al dente and served smoking hot. Furthermore, it was spicy hot too with an equal amount of acidity and meatiness from the ample sausage. Loved the chewy kale as well. This was a nice end to the meal which was pretty solid on all fronts.
- On point proteins
- Attentive service
- Flavorful, but a touch salty
- Very dark, hard to see the menu and the food