Tozen Sushi Bar

We all are aware that there are a tonne of Japanese restaurants in the Lower Mainland.  Most of them are not Japanese-run and many are your typical average neighbourhood spots.  Then you have the upper end of the spectrum where you find predominantly Omakase-focused Japanese restaurants.  Let's not forget about the bigger, great value places such as Sushi Garden, Tentatsu and Nanaimo Sushi.  Those serve a purpose and whether you think they are good or not would be subjective.  In the past 5 years, we've seen another class of Japanese restaurant emerge to fill that gap between really high-end and middle-of-the-road spots.  Sushi Hil is an example where the quality is definitely above-average, but it doesn't reach the level of establishments such as Okeya Kyujiro.  Prices reflect that too.  Another one is Tozen Sushi out on Broadway near Oak Street.  I've been there before, but decided to do a revisit recently.

We got a variety of deluxe and regular items beginning with the Bafun Uni.  Yes, this was the good stuff that comes from Hokkaido.  We much prefer this over local uni due to its more intense sweetness and to me at least, less fishiness (or none at all if it is fresh).  The one served to us was exactly that being creamy and custardy with an intense sweetness.  No need to add anything as this was delicious all by itself.  However, it did include nori strips as a serving vessel.

Onto a more typical item, we had the Assorted Tempura for $17.00.  Considering smaller, less fancy spots charge roughly the same or just a bit under that price, this was a great example of the generally reasonable prices at Tozen.  It was also a good portion size consisting of 2 pieces each of yam, kabocha, green bean, lotus root and prawn.  I found each item to be at its optimal texture while the tempura batter to be fairly thin, crispy and light.  It wasn't too greasy either.  I would've liked to see a bigger dish for the dip as it was far too small.

Going for something also regularly found at most sushi bars, we had the 4 pieces of Tuna Toro.  Although the presentation was a little lacking, the toro itself was excellent.  Each piece was super buttery and soft.  Practically melting in our mouths, the toro had a clean smell and taste (as fresh as flash frozen and then defrosted can get).  We found the brightness of the sea to be present and also a wonderful natural sweetness.

Unlike my previous visit, the Corn Karaage was terrible.  They were in very large pieces, which hindered the deep-frying from making them uniformly crispy.  Rather, the whole thing was soft and doughy with barely any any crunch from the outside.  I did enjoy the pops of sweetness from each corn niblet, but that didn't help things much as the mushiness of each piece was off-putting. 

We moved onto 2 orders of the Bluefin Nigiri Set featuring 1 piece each of negi bluefin, akami, chutoro and otoro.  If I had to compare this to something similar, I've had this at Sushi Hil (where they no longer offer this combo) and the one at Sushi Hil is superior.  With that being said, this particular offering at Tozen was still very good and we were satisfied.  All the different cuts of bluefin were fresh and clean with a nice sheen.  Naturally, the otoro melted in our mouths while the chutoro wasn't far behind.  Nice sweetness on them too.  Akami was meaty of course, but still plenty tender.

Okay, I hate to be so negative, but really, there was no other way to describe the Scallop Motoyaki and the Oyster Motoyaki...  They were awful.  I've never had a motoyaki like this before where the overcooked scallops and oyster were mixed with onions and mushrooms while topped with an inordinate amount of melted cheese.  There was no mayonnaise sauce to be found.   If this was called a gratin, that would've been more accurate.  Not sure why this was prepared in this fashion.  We even let our serve know this.  I've had superior versions at AYCE places, no joke.

Thankfully, our 2 versions of Chawanmushi turned out to be excellent.  We chose the Dungeness Crab & Ikura as well as the Mushroom.  Served hot, the egg was silky, smooth and not watery.  It was tasty too with an impactful sweet smokiness from the dashi and soy.  With the mushroom, it added earthiness and plenty of umami.  As for the crab and ikura, there was brininess, sweetness and a touch of sea.  We really enjoyed this.

Getting back to the deluxe items, we went for the 2 piece Seared Miyazaki A5 Wagyu Nigiri.  Love how they presented it in a box with smoke.  Once the lid was lifted, our senses get the smokiness from sight and smell.  Popping the nigiri into our mouths, the smokiness hit our palate first and then the richness of the beef came next.  With nicely textured sushi, rice, it helped cut the heaviness of the A5.

We ended off our meal with a sneakily delicious Beef Yakiudon.  For $18.00, we felt it was a fair price for the portion size and overall execution of the dish.  Noodles were textured how we would want it to be, tender but with a rebounding chew.  This was also seasoned properly with a certain meatiness with sweetness from the mushrooms and the onions.  They weren't skimping on the ingredients either.  Overall, we enjoyed our visit to Tozen, but the corn karaage and motoyaki were real downers.  It was confusing to us since all of the other dishes were done right and genuinely delicious.  How could they mess up so badly on these as opposed to everything else?

The Good:
- Well-priced for a bit more premium Japanese experience than the usual
- Modern and upscale decor
- On point service

The Bad:
- Corn Karaage and Motoyaki were legitimately terrible
- We informed our server, but no one from management spoke to us

Chef Hung Taiwanese Beef Noodle

I'm sure many of you have heard about the recent closure of Chef Hung's Richmond location after 17 years in business at Aberdeen Centre.  That means there are only two locations left at SFU and UBC.  If you've ever read any reviews about the UBC store, there are some real concerns about serious mismanagement.  I haven't been to this location for quite some time, so it was a bit surprising to see the place go downhill since my last visit.  Mercifully, they are now under new management that is committed to sharpening up their operations.  Jackie and dropped by to see for ourselves.

On the surface, things were operating as usual and there was a decent amount of business considering we were there at 3:00pm on a weekend.  Before we got to the noodles, we had some smaller items in the Braised Pork Hock, Deep Fried Chicken Nuggets and Marinated Egg.  Served in large pieces, the pork hock was the ideal texture.  The gelatinized skin as tender and underneath, the fat and tendon were buttery and soft.  Seasoning was mild, yet effective where the pork flavour wasn't too strong.  Rather, we had a good balance of salty and sweet.  Chicken Nuggets were also large while lightly coated.  They were crispy and well-seasoned with the classic salty-peppery vibes (and a touch of five-spice).  Inside, the dark meat was juicy.  As for the eggs, they were flavourful, but since they were fully done (typical for this type of egg), it was rubbery and had that grey ring.  Still good though!

Another trio of side dishes consisted of Boiled Broccoli, Cold Mixed Baby Cucumbers and Marinated Pig's Ear.  Even though we had broccoli in some of the dishes already, we felt more veggies wouldn't hurt.  They were cooked just right being still a bit crunchy.  Also crunchy, the cucumbers were refreshing and nicely marinated.  Really enjoyed the stacked, then sliced pig's ear as they were gelantious and had a light crunch from the cartilage.  Once again, the braising liquid added umaminess to the pig's ear and of course some sweetened soy vibes.

As you can see in the picture above, the Marinated Beef Roll was fairly large and completely stuffed.  The pancake itself was slightly crispy on its surfaces while the pastry had a bite.  It could've been a bit more flaky though. Inside, the ample sliced beef shank was a bit thick, yet still plenty tender.   I wished there was more hoisin though (but you can ask for more).  The matchstick cucumbers were fresh and added a bright crunch.

We got 2 of their Deep Fried Ginger Chicken Wings and they were the whole wing including the dummette and tip.  They were uniformly golden brown which also meant the skin was fairly crispy.  It was also rendered well, so there wasn't any flabby parts.  Loved the marinated meat as it was juicy, tender and slightly gelatinous.  As promised, there was a nice gingery hit as well.

Onto the dishes we were really here for - The Taiwanese Beef Noodles!  We had one each of the Award-Winning Beef Shank, Tendon & Tripe with Noodle in Soup and Champion Beef Shank with Noodle in Soup and .  These 2 bowls were very similar except for the former having thick noodles and the latter having thin noodles.  Naturally, the former had 2 extra items.  The soup itself was quite good with a solid beef presence.  It had depth-of-flavour and sweetness with just a subtle hint of spice.  Noodles were al dente with the thick noodles being extra chewy (in a good way).  I think the thin noodles picked up more of the soup flavour though.  Meats were tender with the tendon being soft and gelatinous.  Tripe was soft while retaining a mild chewiness.   I thought the beef shank was more tender than the brisket, but that was because of the braised connective tendons.

Moving onto 2 different types of beef noodle, we had the Champion Beef Brisket with Noodle in Clear Soup as well as the Champion Braised Beef with Noodle in Tomato Soup.  With the clear soup, it was certainly clean-tasting and naturally mild with some sweetness.  The brisket was a bit drier here, yet not too chewy.  We also found a few slices of tender beef that were quite delicious.  I have to say that the tomato soup was not as strong as I would've liked.  It definitely had the essence of tomato and we also found some fresh grape tomatoes too, but I wanted more tang.  The braised beef was fall-apart tender and had a rich braised flavour.

We had one more noodle that was similar to the first 2 but also somewhat different as well.  This was the Braised Beef Tendon & Shank with Noodle in Green Pepper Soup.  Despite not appearing to be any different, the soup was distinct.  There was definitely more spiciness (but not too strong) as well as a background numbing.  It was slightly tangy and a bit green tasting (despite the soup looking brown)

In addition to their large selection of beef noodles, they have rice bowls as well.  We ended up trying the Taiwanese-Style Deep Fried Chicken Cutlet and also the Deep Fried Pork Chop.  As you can see, both were similar except that the pork chop had some braised pork underneath.  This meant the rice was saucier and more robust from the rich meat flavours.  Both had a crispy coating and the typical Taiwanese seasoning of salt, white pepper and five spice.  Meats were juicy and tender, especially the thick dark meat chicken.  Overall, the food at Chef Hung was what I expected.  It was solid and considering the cost of food these days, reasonably-priced.  I like that they are trying to improve the service and overall experience because that was an issue with this location.

*All food and beverages were complimentary for this blog post*

The Good:

- Solid eats

- Reasonable pricing

- Portions were fair too

The Bad:

- Decor is a bit worn

- Smaller location with limited seating

Kavita

You know I really enjoy a delicious Indian meal every now and then.  Well, it isn't hard to find good Indian food in the GVRD, especially Punjabi cuisine.  There is a smattering of South Indian and some Goan spots as well.  One of the newest Indian restaurants in town is rather unique as the Head Chef and Owner, Tushar Tondvalkar meshes his experience at Michelin-star restaurants abroad to local high-end dining with classic Indian techniques from different regions.  Something definitely different and completely elevated.  Viv and I decided to give his Ammakase a go which is a chef's curated menu that is highly-seasonal and thoughtfully-designed.

To get things started, we were presented with 3 different small bites and a steaming hot broth.  The first (right to left) was a Achappam, Beef Tartare with Himalayan mustard, Sunchoke Croquette and Shorba.  The crunchy Achappam was floral and sweet while the beef tartare was tender and buttery with a crispy papadum shell.  Croquette was crispy and creamy with some spice.  That broth at the end was a flavour bomb with tang and depth.  There was some balancing sweetness at the end with a gingery finish.

Next, we had the Morel Chick Pea with yogurt kadhi and mustard.  Unlike most curries, the one here was light and tangy with an appealing butteriness.  We found an earthy finish while witnessing much restraint and balance.  Texturally, we had some softness complimented by crispiness as well. This was a preview of what was to come as we usually associate heaviness with Indian food.

One of our favourite dishes was the vegetarian Momo sitting in a lemongrass tomato jhol with Swiss chard.  Oh wow, for such a humble and simple dish, this was my favourite of the tasting menu.  Fragrant with lemongrass and spiciness that became more pronounced at the end, the broth was impactful.  The dumpling skin was thin and full of elasticity.  Hiding within, we found vibrant and crunchy veggies.  There was a bit of bitterness from the chard.

Then we moved onto the Halibut Cheek in fisherman's green sauce and kolarabi.  Although the cheek itself was a bit more cooked than I wanted it to be, it was still classic cheek texture.  It was a bit bouncy and had a bit of a chew.  Nice crispiness on the exterior and caramelization.  Sauce was super herbaceous and silky, yet still subtle.  Kohlrabi on the side was crunchy with acidity and topped with briny ikura.

The most filling course was the Wild Boar encased in black garlic fried rice and then wrapped in a banana leaf.  Although the boar was lean (as it tends to be), it was still moist and tender.  It was also naturally flavourful.  Although encased, the rice was not mushy.  It absorbed the flavours from the leaves.  The fermented umaminess from the black garlic was quite evident.  Lastly, the black sesame came through with a rich nuttiness.

Composed and carefully-prepared, the Aged Duck came with a vindaloo sauce, fried cassava and potato.  Perfectly medium-rare, the duck featured crispy skin that was mostly rendered.  It sat in a tangy vindaloo sauce which had the perfect viscosity.  Once again, there was restraint as the sauce complimented the duck beautifully, yet did not dominate the dish.  We found a pleasantly crispy cassava on the side as well as charred broccolini.

As a pre-dessert, we were served a Kokum Sorbet that was tangy and only lightly sweetened.  There was definite tamarind vibes to this, but kokum belongs to the mangosteen family. Texturally, it was smooth as if there was cream, but in fact, there was none. There was an earthy finish at the end.  This helped us wash away the previous flavours and to get us ready for our dessert.

Our actual dessert consisted of a Christmas Cake that was effectively a festive rum cake with plump raisins, orange and ginger.  Somewhat like a Christmas fruit cake, but actually tasty, this had hits of cardamom and cloves.  It was not dense like a fruit cake, so it was fluffier.  I found the pops of sweetness from the raisins to be the surprise in each bite.  I would've liked more of the gel to go with the crispy parts of the dessert.

Lastly, we had some small bites to end the meal in some Whey Peda with pine.  This chewy and thick bite was a bit creamy and mildly sweet.  Definitely some grassy notes too.  Overall, we were really impressed with the creations that Chef Tushar Tondvalkar presented to us for the tasting menu.  Flavours were familiar but presented in a different manner which had incredible balance and we didn't feel heavy eating it.  We would be more than glad to have this again, as well as his regular menu.

The Good:

- Familiar things but reimagined 

- Not heavy and well-balanced

- Thoughtfully created dishes

The Bad:

- Halibut cheek could've been less cooked

Bar Asra

As much as I try to keep up-to-date with all of the new restaurants in town, there are a bunch I completely miss.  It can be due to a variety of factors, such as limited promotion whether it be through traditional means or social media.  Also, the place might have not received much coverage from the usual outlets in town.  Well, the one great thing about being asked to check a restaurant out is that I actually get to learn about them.  The most recent one is Bar Asra located in the original Vij's.  This place has a unique decor and vibe.  Rather low-key and relaxed.  Led by Executive Chefs Kanwardeep Ahluwalia and Baldeep Singh, they have crafted a menu this is global but with West Coast connections.  Nice place to grab a drink and some eats.

We ended up getting 3 appetizers to share including the West Coast Crab Cakes.  This came with good-sized crab cakes that were crispy on the outside.  Inside, the amount of crab was more so than filler, hence, it was fluffy and almost crumbly.  This was paired with a sauce gribiche that was creamy and tangy.  Rounding out the compliments, we found avocado mousse and tomatillo salsa.  I thought the mousse added creaminess and colour, but the salsa was probably not needed as the gribiche was already doing the heavy lifting.

Based on first impressions, we didn't know what to think about the Black Garlic Chicken Skewers.  They were certainly black and didn't seem all that appealing.  However, we were very wrong as the white meat chicken was actually rather moist while the flavour emanating from the black garlic ash, yogurt and ginger was full of depth.  We got rich sweetness as well as tanginess and a bit of earthiness.  Some lemon aioli on the plate added creaminess with a touch of acidity.

Shockingly, my favourite item of the meal was the Sweet & Sour Pork Belly.  Normally, I would stay far away from this dish (as this is not a Chinese restaurant), but they did a fantastic job with their version.  First of all, the pork belly had a good mix of meat and just a bit of fat.  The pieces were crispy while tender.  It sat on a bed of chunky pineapple salsa which added a brightness and sweet tanginess to the dish.  However, it was the glaze that did the trick here.  It was lightly sweet, plenty tangy and had the right viscosity.  Super delicious!

Another delicious offering was the Bacon & Mussels Hot Pot.  Good portion size here where all of the large mussels were open and tasted fresh.  A bit creamy and full of depth, the tomato broth was mild with hits of smoked bacon and garlic.  I liked how it had tomato flavour without being too tangy.  The grilled sourdough was crunchy and charred, while helping to soak up all of the tasty broth.  We got an extra order of the bread too!

Our other main dish was the CAB NY Striploin prepared medium-rare.  It was as such and super tender.  The herb compound butter added a silky herb finish to each bite.  I would've liked a bit more char on the steak, but it didn't make or break the dish.  Possibly cleaner plating would've enhanced the dish more so as well.  We added foraged mushrooms ($7 surcharge) and it was a good move as they were buttery and had a nice texture.  Moreover, we also got the charred broccolini ($7 surcharge) and they were definitely smoky while still having a crunch.

Couldn't do without the cocktails, so we had 3 of them and one mocktail.  From left-to-right, we had the Yuzual Please, The Devil Drinks Margarita, Taking the Pisco and Peachy Clean.  Some really dangerous drinks here as they were fruity and went down easy.  The easiest was the Yuzual Please which was bright and citrusy.  There was some spice to the Margarita and definite red wine vibes.  The Pisco had hits of apple and rhubarb but wasn't just fruity as the tequila was still at the forefront.  Lastly, the Peachy Clean was floral and sweet, but at the same time, had elements that made it taste not like a mocktail.

Onto dessert, we had the Dubai Chocolate Bar surrounded by fried vermicelli noodles and dulce de leche.  The bar itself was what Dubai Chocolate is about.  Smooth and silky with pistachio with chocolate ganache, there was also a definite crunch and nuttiness.  It was sweet, but not as sweet as some other versions I've had.  Overall, the meal we had at Bar Asra was a good one and portions were not lacking.  Cool cocktails and a relaxed vibe in a restaurant that seems more Main Street than South Granville, but welcomed as it is something different in the neighbourhood.

 

*All food and beverages were complimentary for this blog post*

 

The Good:

- Some great flavours

- Great portion sizes

- Relaxed vibe with tasty cocktails

 

The Bad:

- Plating could be re-imagined 

 

Toyokan Bowl

I've always been a fan of the Kingyo Group of restaurants in Vancouver (they have spots in Seattle and Toronto as well) that include Raisu, Rajio, New Fuji, Takenaka, Kingyo, Toyokan Plaza and Toyokan Bowl.  This formerly included Suika, before the fire closed it for the time being (or maybe forever?).  Now their newest pair of restaurants include Toyokan Plaza and Toyokan Bowl.  For this visit, Steph and I focused on the restaurant found upstairs in Toyokan Bowl.

Before we got to the main event, we began with some small plates such as the Ika Yuzu.  Since the ika was marinated in soy sauce, it gave the appearance of jellyfish.  However, it was pure ika with its unmistakable chewiness and sweetness.  We also found some brininess in the form of herring roe and this was all served with crisp cucumber slices.

We also had the Aromatic Sea Bream marinated with a Yamagata-style dashi.  With the finely chopped veggies, the sea bream took on the sweetness and herbaceousness of the ingredients.  It retained its firm texture, yet wasn't chewy.  This was all brought together with a light soy-broth which was definitely there but not the dominant flavour.

We got a double-dose of duck with the Shio Koji Duck Carpaccio as well as the Duck Soba (which was an add-on to one our bowls).  Although the layer of fat could've been a little less flabby, the duck itself was tender and full-flavoured.  The carpaccio was sweet and a bit spicy while the udon was nicely chewy with an almost smoky dashi.  Duck was more natural-tasting due to the lack of dressing.

Now for the stuff we were mainly here for... The first to arrive was the Bluefin Otoro and Hokkaido Uni Box.  In between we found some house-marinated ikura as well.  This was pretty good with buttery slices of otoro that melted in my mouth.  It was fresh-tasting with the essence of the sea.  As for the uni, it was also good without any bad pieces.  They were custardy and naturally sweet.  The rice underneath was chewy and served only as a thin-layer.

Going into something more heavy, we had the Miyazaki A5 Wagyu Box.  Marinated in shio-koji and then sous-vide, this beef was melt-in-our-mouths worthy.  It was finished off with house-made Japanese steak sauce and seaweed sauce.  If this wasn't luxurious and silky enough, there was an onsen egg on the side.  This all sat on a thin layer of chewy sushi rice and when mixed with the egg, there was custardy textures to go with the buttery beef.  Of course we got a mouthful of umami from the beef and sauces as well.

We left the best for last in The Emperor which only could be described as a chirashi don on steroids.  What we had here was all 3 cuts of bluefin (otoro, chutoro and akami), salmon, hamachi, seabream, hotate, datemaki, bluefin tartare, lobster, uni and spot prawn.  Oh yah, this was a lot and things had a nice sheen and flavours were clean.  The uni slid off and was a bit unsightly, but things ate well and there was more than enough to go with the sushi rice.  Yah, this was $70.00 but with all things considered, I do not think this was unreasonable.  In the end, we enjoyed the food at Toyokan Bowl and thought the pricing was in-line with what we got.  Sure, it is on the higher end, but we weren't eating California Rolls here!  Do I think this is the best in town?  No, I've had better quality ingredients, but that was only at higher end Japanese restaurants offering pricey Omakase.

The Good:

- Bougie bowls

- Reasonable pricing considering what you are eating

- Eclectic bowling theme

The Bad:

- Service was friendly, but trying to flag someone down after ordering was difficult