Sherman's Food Adventures: West Coast
Showing posts with label West Coast. Show all posts
Showing posts with label West Coast. Show all posts

Published on Main

Here I am at Published on Main once again.  This is one of my favourite restaurants in Vancouver that include AnnaLena, Elem, Elisa, June and L'Abattoir.  Back in 2022, Published was bestowed the honour of being #1 on the list of Canada's 100 Best Restaurants.  I wholeheartedly agreed with that sentiment given that their OG menu items were on point and beautifully-plated.  For the next 2 years (2023 and 2024), Mon Lapin in Montreal was awarded #1.  I actually visited Mon Lapin in 2023 and despite being delicious, I wasn't sure if it was truly #1.  In 2025, it is now Pearl Morissette in the Niagara region being touted at #1.  Spoiler alert, I made my way out to their converted barn situated on a farm restaurant in June.  That will be posted soon.  For now, this is just my latest visit to Published, which currently sits #9 on the list.

So we started with one of our favs in the Chips & Dip.  This menu staple was missing from the menu the last time we were here since they could not source the right potatoes.  Good call because if it isn't up to specifications, take it off the menu!  With this version, I found the chips to be a bit thinner and lighter than before.  No matter, still really tasty potato chips (which were salted just right).  As for the smoked fish dip, it was creamy, chunky and full of smokiness and dill.  A seemingly simple item, but a must order.


We had the refreshing Dungeness Crab next with a cute crab on top.  The delicate crab sat atop some preserved tomatillo and was surrounded by cornichons, green olives, sungold tomatoes and sea asparagus with some fennel fronds.  All of this was finished off with a clarified gazpacho.  Lots of natural tomato flavour and brightness in this dish.  More tomato came in the form of 
Pan con Tomate on the side.  The bread was crunchy and a bit smoky while the tomato was bright, fresh and full-flavoured.

We them moved onto an OG menu item that has been there from the beginning - the Aebleskiver.  These pancake balls are unassuming but utterly delicious.  A bit crispy on the outside and plenty soft and pancakey inside, these were filled with stewed herbs. Full of aromatics and umami, these were tasty by themselves but ultimately, the herb emulsion completed the dish.  It was creamy and subtle, giving some much needed moisture to the Aebleskivers.

Just like the chips & dip, another must-order for me is the Kentucky Fried Maitake.  At first glance, one might assume these fried mushrooms are heavy and dense.  That would be completely wrong as these were lightly crispy and almost light as a feather.  The coating was beautifully seasoned with enough salt, pepper and spices.  However, the garlic scape ranch on the side was not just for show, it was creamy and bright with a slight sharpness.

Of course we need to get some veggies into this meal and we did with the Badger Flame Beets with golden beets.  Visually-appealing, the beets were sweet and a bit earthy while sitting on a tasty paste comprised of lemongrass, black vinegar and miso.  That really gave the dish a kick in the pants with sweet tang, brightness and rich fermented saltiness.  The whole thing was topped with shiso and sunflower seeds for extra herbaceous hits and texture.

We continued the vegetable theme with the Hispi Cabbage.  At first, the dish didn't look all that exciting, but we shouldn't judge a book by its cover right?  Well, the cabbage was excellent being firm, but cooked through and charred while dressed in a hazelnut mole and sat atop mucho macha salsa.  If you can imagine, this was a flavour bomb of nuttiness, earthiness, sweetness, bitterness and a touch of spice.  To finish the dish, we found some pickled onions and serranos which added crunch, mild heat and more tanginess.

The veggies didn't stop there as we also go the Summer Squash.  The slices raw zucchini were neatly arranged atop a tabbouleh salad.  Mixed within it, we found roasted squash and pickled patty pan squash and herbs. It was dressed in mega miso which was of course, full of rich fermented umaminess.  The delicate texture of the squash was still noticeable amongst the other ingredients while the raw zucchini on top (with lemon dressing) provided a bright bitterness.

I long for the days when the scallops with apple was on the menu, but the Roasted Scallop with sweet corn, 'nduja and lobster mushrooms sounded quite good.  In fact, it was excellent.  The scallops were seared beautifully with the centre still rare.  Hence it was naturally sweet with the extra caramelization on the external surfaces.  With enough savoury elements and a touch of spice from the 'nduja, the sweet corn was able to compliment the already sweet scallops in a balanced manner.

One dish that I was indifferent about was the English Pea Tortelli.  This really tasted how it appeared.  It was very green with the lovage being dominant in the pistou.  I'm sure that was intentional, but for me, I didn't get much of the peas. The pasta itself was firm and al dente, but it was a bit thick in my opinion.  Hence, it was dense and not delicate.  I did like the pickled ramps as it helped deviate from all of the green flavours.  Some added crunch on top was appreciated.

Moving along to the meat portion of the meal, we had the Sticky Pork Ribs.  These were fall-off-the-bone tender while retaining a meat texture.  It was glazed with a pickled fermented fig BBQ sauce which was money.  It was sweet, tangy and had a little something something.  On the side, we found a summer beans and sungold tomatoes dressed in a Maggi dressing.  I believe I've had this dressing summer beans last year and it was great!  Nicely emulsified, the dressing was creamy and full of umami and saltiness.

In addition to the ribs, we added the Summer BBQ Beef for good measure.  The tender slices of beef were meaty and quite lean.  It was slathered with a lacto paprika BBQ sauce which was savoury more than sweet with some tanginess and definite paprika vibes.  Underneath, there was some cheesy semolina grits where it was surrounded by spicy and crunchy brassicas in a calabrian garlic sauce.

Of course we had to get dessert right?  We went for the classic (from day one) Hay featuring aerated hay custard.  That light and barely there custard was mildly sweet and nutty.  It was complimented by the green apple granita as it provided that burst of tangy sweetness as well as a hit of cold.  The floral nature of the chamomile was also present.  Beyond the pretty flower petals, we had some crispy meringue to add some needed texture.
  

So our second dessert happened to be the newest dessert in the Elderflower featuring a rose curd on the bottom with an elderflower mousse and a yogurt sorbet with honey lemon verbena.  This was an appealing mix of floral, tangy and sweet with contrasting textures between the creamy curd and light mousse and firm top.  As per usual, when they bring you the bill, it includes some final bites in housemade jellies and caramels.  Once again, it was a fantastic meal at Published on Main.  It truly earns its place in the top 10 of Canada's 100 Best Restaurants and I personally believe they should stay there.  However, I still reminisce about the OG menu where they got to the top of the list.  Maybe one day they will get there again.

The Good:
- Solid meal with some surprising flavours
- The classic dishes kept on the menu are excellent
- Just enough service that it isn't obtrusive

The Bad:
- I did enjoy the meat dishes, but they do not hit the highs of the ones I've had in the past 
 

Elem

Yes, here we are with another visit to Elem.  It was a long time coming because it was supposed to be in May.  It was for my mother's birthday, but she got sick and we had to postpone it to June.  This would be the first time that she and my kids got to try Elem.  Moreover, I haven't been to Elem since they made Canada's 100 Best Restaurants list.  Congrats to them and I know they are working hard to be better every day.  I think this is my 6th visit?


Like every other meal we've had here, it all starts with their Rye Bread with butter.  This time, it was black garlic butter and there was definitely the sweet umaminess combined with the usual creaminess.  Love the bread here, so soft and fluffy but having a chew to them as well.  Next, we had the Glorious Organics Salad with magnolia vinaigrette, radish and toasted nuts.  I'm not much of a salad person, but this was a good way to get some fresh and crisp greens into the meal while having some really apparent texture with the crunchy nuts.

One of the daily features was the Morels stuffed with spot prawn mousse in a lemon garlic mouseline sauce with morel broth.  As you can imagine, the morels were at the forefront of this dish and there was intense umaminess.  Texturally, each morel had the classic sponginess giving way to a delicate, sweet and bouncy filling.  The sauce was also spiked with morel woodsiness and had plenty of aromatics and creaminess.

Okay, what can I say about the Dungeness Crab Toast that I haven't already stated?  I've had this every meal at Elem and it never disappoints.  Of course, this time was no different.  The ample amount of fluffy and sweet crab sat atop milk bread surrounded by lemongrass ginger foam.  There was a good contrast of texture between the crab and the crispy toast.  Moreover, the light airiness of the sauce matched well with the crab. Naturally, the SE Asian flavours of the sauce make the dish with the aromatic brightness of lemongrass.


We also had the Carrots and the Grilled Lamb Skewers where I was elated to to have the latter.  You see, most people I dine with do not like lamb.  However, the lamb skewers here at Elem are fantastic.  With a good mix of meat and fat, the skewers were succulent and tender.  They were nicely paired with the thick and tangy labneh and sweet date glaze.  Nice crunch from the buckwheat on top.  As for the carrots, they were sweet and earthy while atop whipped miso tofu.  This was good, but I probably would not order them again.


This time with the fam, I didn't go too extreme with the cocktails and only had two of them.  Both were on the "Fifth Dimension" supplemental menu.  The first was the Black Sesame Whiskey Sour with peanut butter washed Shelter Point whiskey, black sesame paste and egg whites.  Definitely aromatic and nutty with the hit of lemon to keep things bright.  The other was the Wild Rose Daiquiri with earl grey rum, wild rose cordial, lime and curry leaf oil.  This was the stronger of the two, yet at the same time, went down easy.  This was partly due to the sweetness offered up by the cordial.  At the same time, there was some tang form the lime and earthiness of the curry leaf oil.  If I had to choose between the two, I would take the latter.

It seems like every culture has a version of fried chicken, so why not have Indian Fried Chicken?  This version featured large thigh pieces that were coated in a crispy, but light batter.  Inside, the meat was juicy and super tender.  Underneath, we found a butter chicken sauce which was well-balanced with a touch of spice.  I found it creamy, but not heavy while having a muted tanginess.  Topping it off, we found a few blistered shishitos.

I'm glad they kept the Roasted Brussels Sprouts on the menu because as simple as it may seem, the dish is delicious.  Firm, but cooked through, the sprouts were tender and nicely roasted.  The pops of sweetness was provided by the sultana raisins while there was some balancing acidity from the pear agrodulce.  As per usual, we also added the Barbecue Chicken Fried Rice topped with a sunny side egg.  Beyond the chewy texture of the rice and the nutty caramelization, there was tang and spice from the house kimchi.  Yet, the proverbial cherry on top was the chili crunch on the side.  This made the rice with nuttiness, crunch, smokiness and a bit of spice. 

For our pasta dish, we had the stunning Short Rib Scarpinocc beautifully plated with fresh spring peas and pickled rhubarb.  This sat in a lightly creamy beurre blanc sauce that was not heavy with perfect balance of sweetness with a touch of acidity.  The sweet peas added bursts of flavour while the rhubard provided extra tanginess and a bit of crunch.  The pasta itself was appealingly firm with tender and intensely savoury short rib.

Moving onto our meat course, we had the Dry-Aged Duck.  This consisted of a succulent duck breast which was cooked perfectly as well as duck leg with fall-apart meat.  Both featured rendered skin which were glazed with sweet prunes.  Underneath, we found a duck jus that was full of umami and sweetness.  Also on the plate, we found a braised shallot that was finished off some broiling.  It provided even more sweetness to the dish.


We ended up with some desserts including the Nemesis Cake and Popcorn.  I've had both of these before and that cake was fantastic.  This time around, it was just like I remembered.  It was rich and creamy with the slight bitterness of dark chocolate at the forefront with mild sweetness.  The vanilla miso ice cream on the side added some saltiness while the tarragon wafer provided crunch and subtle licorice vibes.  A nicely balanced and composed dessert.  As for the popcorn, it is a whimsical dessert, where it really did taste like aromatic sweet popcorn.  Totally intentional because it is supposed to emulate the flavours of Chicago mix.  So therefore, that is why we found cheddar on top while sitting on a corn mousse & foam with caramel sauce.  Very light and airy dessert that wasn't too heavy.


Our third dessert was a new one back when we had it in June.  The Piña Colada  Baba au Rum Cake was quite balanced.  I've had rum cake before that it was so strong, I could barely eat it.  This had a hint of it where the soaked cake was moist and semi-sweet.  We found some chewy pineapple bits that added concentrated sweetness and texture.  Tangy black lime crema offered up some tangy bitterness.  Lastly, there was some pandan coconut ice cream which was floral and purposefully sweet.  Along with the bill, we had one more small bite in the White Chocolate with lemon zest.  These were creamy and of course sweet, yet not as much as I would've expected from white chocolate.  So there we are, another delicious meal at Elem with a few new dishes that go off in different directions.  That is the concept with Elem as there are influences from around the world (both food and beverages) in a metropolitan space with Michelin-worthy service.

The Good:
- Thoughtfully-conceptualized dishes
- Good ambiance as per usual
- Great service as per usual

The Bad:
- The bill can get up there, but nothing is inexpensive these days

Sunflower Lodge

Last summer, I met with some friends at the Blackberry Kitchen in Mission.  This beautiful wood lodge situated at a top of a hill (with a view) offered up homey vibes with lunch and dinner service.  Well, fast forward to the present and now it is The Sunflower Lodge, which is affiliated with the Sunflower Cafe in Maple Ridge.  Hence, it dishes up the same fresh produce from the farm and focuses on BC ingredients.  We decided to go for the a la carte menu, however, they do have a tasting menu available too.


We were started off with a Amuse Bouche of White and Red Gooseberries in a sorrel purée.  This certainly perked up our appetites with bursts of sour tanginess with just a touch of sweetness.   If the pops of flavour from the gooseberries wasn't enough, the tartness and "greenness" of the sorrel compounded the appetizing effect.  There was also some bread with the same delicious cultivated butter from the cafe.  It was so creamy with strong "butter" flavours.  The addition of flaked salt really elevated the impact.

Our first dish was the Charred Asparagus with smoked mushrooms and Hollandaise.  Each sprig was tender while completely smoky from the char.  It was well-salted where it amplified the sweet flavour of the asparagus.  We found the fried mushrooms to be extra crispy, offering up a textural contrast while also giving off an appealing smokiness.  Creamy and mildly seasoned, the Hollandaise nicely complimented the veggies.

Bringing it down a few notches, the Turnips & Snap Peas was a somewhat subtle dish which acted like a palate cleanser of sorts.  Featuring fresh cubes of bright and earthy turnip and sweet pops from the snap peas, this was simple, yet so delicious.  On top, we found a goat cheese mousse which was also rather understated.  Normally, anything goat cheese can be rather strong and gamy.  However, this wasn't the case, especially combined with the tartness of the flowering currant vinegar.

One of the most unassuming dishes was the Smoked Sablefish Salad.  It consisted of flakes of smoked sablefish with pickled seaweed, celery, fennel with a rice vinegar, apple & celery dressing.  With each bite, we got the butteriness of the flaky sablefish and a pretty strong smokiness.  However, this was balanced off by the tang and sweetness of the dressing.  Crunch from the supremely fresh celery and fennel added texture and the small drops of dill oil afforded herbaceousness.  There was some background spice to it too.

When the Roasted Carrot Salad arrived, we noticed the plating with plenty of negative space.  Yet, the plate in general was nothing but positive.  It featured little underdeveloped carrots that would normally be discarded.  These cute little things were sweet and quite earthy with a touch of spice.  To compliment there was some dukkah for added earthiness and nuttiness.  Going for no wastage, we found a carrot top pesto which was herbaceous and also earthy.  We got another hit of creamy nuttiness from the cashew cream.

Moving onto the larger plates, we thoroughly enjoyed the Housemade Pasta.  These large agnolottis were stuffed with creamy boursin cheese.  That in itself was pretty tasty while encapsulated in an al dente pasta.  However, these were sauced with a sweet onion soubise which was creamy, sweet and buttery.  With the addition of porcini mushrooms and heidi cheese, we got some big hits of earthy nuttiness.  Really good pasta dish.

Arriving as a pretty big portion, the Poached Halibut was perfectly cooked, not to mention, super fresh.  It was flaky, barely cooked through and moist.  This was also an indication that the fish was never frozen.  It was fairly mild in terms of seasoning, but no matter as the creamy sauce Veronique provided a floral and herbaceous flavour to the dish.  Underneath, there was a spring vegetable succotash that exhibited a precise brunoise.  It was cooked beautifully where the fresh texture remained.  Some acidity was provided by the gooseberries and to top it off, there was some sea asparagus. 

Just like at Sunflower Cafe, we also had the Fraser Valley Roasted Duck Breast.  If I had to compare, this was prepared even better than the Cafe, but both were good.  The duck was super tender and juicy while the fat was fairly rendered with a crisp skin.  That Haksap berry jus was balanced with equal parts sweet and tangy.  It was definitely there but allowed the duck flavour to come through.  On the side, there was a turnip salad that was, of course, super fresh, bright and turnipy.

Saving the heaviest dish for last, we had the 16oz Ribeye with gnocchi fries, braised leeks and allium salad.  As you can see, the steak was prepared medium-rare and well rested.  It was also evenly charred with a caramelized smokiness.  To further enhance the steak, there was also a demi-glace on top.  Super crunchy and a nice concept, the gnocchi fries were pretty tasty, if not on the saltier side.  But this was alleviated by the onion and chive salad as well as the seared leeks.


Before we got to dessert, we had a pre-dessert in the Strawberry with elderflower and magnolia topped with mint.  Suffice to say, this was pretty complex with floral, fall flavours and fruity notes.  Nice palate-cleanser before we got to the Ricotta Donuts with housemade lemon curd and blueberry jam.  These were so airy and fluffy, it didn't feel like we were consuming any calories.  Wishful thinking I know!  The combination of tangy lemon curd and sweet jam meant there was a good mix of flavours.

We had one more dessert in the Goat's Milk Tres Leche with fresh strawberries and chantilly.  Once again, the gaminess of goat's milk was very subtle.  The sweetness of the caramelized condensed milk was the most impactful component other than the sweet and tangy strawberries.  This was a well-composed and balanced creation.  Very delicious.  In fact, the food at Sunflower Lodge is excellent and an improvement over Blackberry Kitchen.  Dishes are more refined and elevated.  What a real find in Mission!

*All food and beverages were complimentary for this blog post*

The Good:
- Surprisingly level of refinement out in Mission
- Beautiful location
- Reasonable pricing given the quality and quantity of food

The Bad:
- For those not close by, it is quite the trek

Sunflower Cafe

I might be a little late to the party, but finally, I have made it out to the Sunflower Cafe in Maple Ridge.  This cute spot located on a farm takes farm-to-table to the max where things on your plate are literally harvested as you wait.  Beyond that, the setting is probably one of the nicest spots in the Fraser Valley.  Individual gazebos set within lush greenery and with a view of the current crops on the farm give a sense of peacefulness.  Great on a nice day and even on a rainy day too!  To top it off, they have a tasting menu for $85.00 that features BC ingredients as well as all produce from the farm.

 

I ended up going for the wine pairing ($55.00) with the first one being the Sparkling Chardonnay from Bella King Estate Vineyard Series.  This was clean and fresh with stone fruitiness at the end. The first item to arrive was the Amuse Bouche featuring Citrus Cured Albacore Tuna atop lovage and herb oil.  This was one herbaceous bite where the oil was quite noticeable.  The tuna itself was buttery soft being naturally sweet with a mild background acidity.  On top we found raw fennel, pickled fennel and fennel tops.  As expected, there was the usual licorice notes with plenty of crunch.  As a garnish, we found alyssum flowers straight from the garden (we were watching them snip them just before serving us this dish).

If you can believe it, one of our favourite items of the tasting menu was the Dinner Rolls and Cultured Butter.  These unassuming rolls were so soft and fluffy, I enjoyed eating them without anything.  They were served warm and smelled sweet.  However, we really did have to use up all of the cultured butter with maldon salt.  It was so creamy and had a strong buttery taste.  The salt heightened the flavour of the butter.



The second glass of wine was the Pinot Gris from Sage Hill Winery.  I found this crisp and more robust than the first wine.  It was definitely fruity as well. Perfect to go with the Summer Salad consisting of pickled gooseberries, cucumbers, baton turnips, daylilies and sorrel atop house whipped ricotta.  This was super simple, but the freshness of the components were allowed to shine.  This best way to describe this salad was supremely fresh and bright.  A nice way to begin the meal.
 

Onto the 3rd wine, I had the Scout Rose which was quite rich with dark berry and floral notes.  It stood up well to the Porcini Mushrooms and Grilled Asparagus with espresso sauce.  For a non-meat dish, this was rather meaty.  The mushrooms were so impactful in terms of texture and rich nuttiness and the smokiness of the asparagus added so much depth.  With just enough coffee, the sauce was creamy and full of umami.  On top, the crunchy and bright flavours of the celery and pickled Norway spruce help lighten things up.
 

The 4th wine was the Juno Block Chardonnay from Keenan Thrussell which was light and muted.  Definite fruity notes that was a great match with the Pacific Ling Cod.  It was barely cooked through offering up a moist and flaky texture. Although properly seasoned, the fish was enhanced by the creamy beurre blanc with peas, turnips and morels.  These added earthiness and sweetness.  On the side, we found a gigantic stuffed morel with ling cod mousse.
 

The final wine pairing was our first red being the Daydreamer Amelia.  This was a bit spicy and full-bodied with a touch of fruitiness.  Naturally, this was a perfect match to the Fraser Valley Duck Breast.  This was cooked to medium-rare being tender and juicy.  The fat was fairly well-rendered with crispy and seasoned skin.  Underneath, we found a sweet and tangy summer berries stew surrounded by an earthy and sweet beet puree.  On the side, there was a fried maitake mushroom with stinging nettle powder and sunflower seed butter.
 
As if the meal couldn't be any more enjoyable, we were presented with both the Homemade Chocolate Brownie with chocolate ganache, hazelnut mousse, candied hazelnuts and chocolate tuile cracker.  Sure, the brownie was rich with a crispy exterior that gave way to a chewy chocolate interior.  It was purposefully sweet and was enhanced by the nutty and sweet hazelnut mousse and crunch from the hazelnuts and tuile.  
 
We also were served the Strawberry & Salmon Berry Tart with red & alpine strawberries.  This was predictably a refreshing dessert where the fruitiness of the berries stole the show.  Nice tanginess to go with the sweet pastry cream and strawberry gel.  Loved the sugar tart shell as it was firm and caramelized.  There was a tangy rhubarb sorbet on the side atop puffed black rice and topped with wood sorrel.  Nice texture from the crispy and nutty rice.  Wow, just wow, the setting, food and value found at the Sunflower Cafe...  This is a place that should be in Canada's Top 100 restaurants.  I have no doubt this will happen real soon!
 
*All food and beverages were complimentary for this blog post*
 
The Good:
- One of the most unique dining experiences in the Fraser Valley
- The freshest fruits and vegetables you will find at a restaurant 
- Well-priced
 
The Bad:
- A bit for for some, but really, it is worth the drive 
 

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