Sherman's Food Adventures

Chambar

Normally, I try not to post any revisits if they are too close together.  In fact, there are certain places that are so consistent, a year in between posts probably yields similar results.  However, with our recent visit to Chambar, it seemed like a good idea to do a post on because their menu had completely changed since our dinner just over a year ago.  Another reason would be the increased variety of dishes since Costanza and Elaine were present as well.

We started with their signature dish (albeit in a different broth) with the Congolaise (Mussels & Frites) featuring tomato coconut cream, smoked chili, lime and cilantro.  All four of us had a hard time picking out any coconut cream or essence.  Either they put very little or completely forgot.  Hence, it was more a spicy tomato broth with a background smokiness and tang.  The cilantro was pretty impactful with an initial hit.  Although served on the side, the frites were pretty much the star of the show with a fluffy crispiness.  We got an order of the Daily Bread to compliment the mussels and it was actually a great item in itself.  It appeared to be some sort of light rye, cheese and sage bread with a chewy exterior giving way to a firmly soft (yes an oxymoron I know...) cheesy interior.  Loved the creamy whipped butter on the side.

Normally, Sardines on toast highlight the robust flavour of the fish.  However, the one here was nicely balanced where the tomato relish was both intensely sweet and tangy.  The chermoula on top was the proverbial icing on the cake as the brightness of the ginger really cut through the fishiness of the sardines. Probably my favourite appie was the Calamars Farcis featuring veal-stuffed calamari, taro chips and chili aioli.  The squid itself was tender and buttery with a balancing chew.  It was nicely charred on the outside providing not only a few crispy bits, but also a warming smokiness.  Inside, the ground veal was tender and moist with a lingering spiciness.  This was further amplified by the chili aioli.

Onto the mains, I went for the Tajine D’aziz À L’agneau or braised lamb shank with honey, figs, cinnamon, cilantro and almond cous-cous.  Once the lid was removed off the tagine, an aromatic scent wafted towards me.  I could definitely get the cinnamon and smell of lamb.  I found the meat to be tender and fatty while spiced with a sweet jus.  This was of course from the honey and figs.  I could definitely get the cinnamon (there was a stick of it), but it wasn't overwhelming at the same time.  I poured all of the cous-cous into the tagine so it could soak all of over the flavour.  Viv went for the Pot au Feu de Truite featuring steelhead trout, local beets and Brussels sprouts in a tapioca galangal shisho broth.  Sporting crispy skin, the trout itself was flaky and moist.  It was mildly seasoned, where it allowed the fragrant broth do the heavy lifting.  It exhibited a certain brightness with a robust galangal essence.

Elaine picked out La Pièce De Boeuf (AAA char grilled 8oz beef brochette) and proceeded to ask for it to be prepared medium-well (the horror!).  I commend the chef from not wavering from this absurd request as it came out a perfect medium-rare. Ballsy move, but hey, I would've serve this any other way either! Imagine ordering lobster and requesting it to be extra rubbery!  Anyways, it was buttery and tender with a crispy char.  The chimichurri was bright and flavourful while the sundried tomato jus added another layer of tang and saltiness.  Costanza opted for the Thon Provencale (Albacore tuna loin & belly, sea asparagus, rapini, rouille potatoes, chorizo chips, olives and red pepper coulis).  I enjoyed the rare, buttery loin as it was nicely seasoned on the outside.  However, the belly was a bit mealy from the aggressive frying.  It wasn't all that flavourful either.

For dessert, we shared the Citron Cremeux and Coco Panna Cotta. Hidden beneath the tangy and smooth raspberry sorbet and overly dry sponge cake was natural-tasting lemon lemon cream.  It was appealingly tart and smooth.  Beautifully plated with toasted coconut sorbet, lime puffs, blueberries, black pepper and lime compote, the panna cotta was light and semi-sweet.  I could definitely taste the black pepper as well as the sweetness of the blueberries.  On the other hand, there needed to be more acidity to bring the dessert to another level.  As you can ascertain, this meal at Chambar was solid and carefully prepared.  Often, I get asked why Chambar is grouped into the best restaurants in Vancouver - well, this didn't happen by accident.

The Good:
- Carefully prepared food
- Attentive service
- Purposeful flavours

The Bad:
- On the pricier side

Juniper

*Restaurant is closed*

I'm sure you've heard the term "gentrification" used in describing the current state of affairs in Chinatown.  Yes, it is pretty sad to see the place transition from the bustling place of the 80's into more of a hipster hangout.  However, Richmond has really taken over the top destination for Chinese eats and shopping.  Besides, there are pockets all around Vancouver one can buy their Asian groceries including several T&T's.  For me, I believe that one cannot stop what happens organically, so I've tried to visit all of the great places to eat and drink in the areaThis food adventure (and drink adventure) finally brought us to Juniper.

To begin, we had to go for what Juniper is best known for - their cocktails.  Viv went for the Juniper made with Aviation gin, juniper berries, lemon peel and Fentimans tonic.  As expected, this was a super refreshing and light cocktail.  There was only a background lemon rind essence while the berries were nice too look at but hardly noticeable.  For myself, I had the Gin Grapefruit Mule consisting of Beefeater Gin, grapefruit, lime, ginger beer, Campari and bitters.   Again, this was also light and fruity with only slight bite from the ginger.  The tart and bitterness of the other ingredients came through, but it was well-balanced.

Onto the food, I was really interested in the Duck Wings that were confit and smoked.  Hence, the meat underneath was soft albeit somewhat dry.  However, the ample amount of honey sesame sauce spiked with whiskey kept things peppery, sweet and sticky.  The smokiness was apparently while not overpowering.  The side of tangy and spicy cabbage was impactful enough to stand up to the sweet wings.  Next up, we had the Mussels with apple cider, boar bacon, grilled leek, kale and jalapeno buttered bread.  The buttery and plump mussels were prepared expertly where each and every one of them were open.  Bringy and sweet, the broth had a balancing amount of salt.  The side of jalapeno buttered bread was sinfully tasty and we wished there was more of it.

Prepared a perfect medium-rare, the flat iron steak in the Beef & Broccoli was tender in parts while a bit chewy in others.  It was mildly meaty with the sweetness and slight tang of the pickled mustard seed on top.  The fingerling potatoes were nicely roasted being soft while not mushy.  I thought the lobster and oyster mushrooms were on point.  Also prepared expertly was the Albacore Tuna which was buttery and soft.  I thought it was unevenly seasoned where some had more salt than other pieces.  There was the crunch of the puffed wild rice as well as an herbaceous finish.  When eaten with the tangy salad, there was a nice brightness to the flavours.  I found the squash to be rather bland though.  Although we only sampled 2 bevvies at Juniper, we will definitely try more in the future.  As for the food, it was pretty good, but the drinks steal the show.

The Good:
- Go for the drinks
- Nice room and atmosphere

The Bad:
- Seating is a bit tight
- Food is not bad, but drinks are the focus

Mak N Ming

*Restaurant is closed*

We seen quite a few restaurants open up in the last little while, but many have been poke shops.  Now I have nothing against poke because I actually love the stuff.  However, there is a little place in Kits that I've had my eye on since it quietly opened in December.  The combined effort of Makoto Ono (formerly of PiDGin) and Amanda Cheng (Ming is her Chinese name), Mak N Ming offers up only 2 tasting menus - one small and one large.  Viv and I checked this place out in early January for their large tasting menu.


Before we got to the heart of the menu, we were started off with Chef Ono's take on a takoyaki in the Smoked Cheddar Takoyaki (minus the tako).  The little ball was crispy with a semi-dense batter which was completely flavoured by the balanced smokiness of the cheddar.  On top, the grated Parmesan and salt added a literal shock to the palate that helped elevate the mild-tasting fried ball.  Onto our first course, we were served the Kombu Cured Snapper atop a creamy miso tofu sauce.  I absolutely loved the buttery texture of the cured snapper as well as a natural sweetness from the sea.  Providing a light crunchiness was the fried scales on top and also the julienned wood ear.  This was a well-balanced dish that produced clean flavours that worked in harmony.

Another light, yet still full-bodied dish was the Mushroom Chawanmushi.  As simple as it appeared, the complexity and umaminess from the shiitake and maitake mushrooms produced rich Earthy hits to the palate.  As if this wasn't enough, the fried enoki on top added a roasted and smoky caramelized essence that was aromatic and rich.  Combined with the on point silky egg, this was delicious and allowed the umami from the mushrooms to do the heavy lifting.  As tasty as the first 3 items were, the Milk Bun topped with a seaweed crust was killer.  The bun itself was soft while not airy.  It was lightly sweet and the crispy seaweed crust was somewhat salty and again hit the umami tastebuds.  It was good, but when I slathered some of the spicy mayo, the whole thing took off.  In addition to the impactful creamy spiciness, the mayo helped heighten all of the existing flavours.  I could see why this was served after the snapper and chawanmushi.

From this, we moved onto the Pork Chop topped with black truffle and accompanied by cauliflower 3-ways.  I found the 2 pieces of pork to be tender, yet not succulent.  The pork itself was mildly seasoned where underneath, the impactful bacon jus took care of the need for saltiness.  The truffle, in our opinion, did not add much.  However, the pickled cauliflower stems and leaves brightened things up with a noticeable, yet not overwhelming tartness.  The best thing on the plate was the creamy and sweet seafoody scallop and cauliflower puree.  Served on a separate plate was the firm cauliflower rice made with the florets.  It was well-seasoned and on point in texture (not overdone).  This was a pleasant dish, but lagged behind the first 4 items in terms of impact.

Everything was fine and dandy as we were presented with the Dungeness Crab Noodle Soup.  This, my friends, was absolutely dynamite in terms of depth-of-flavour and execution.  Aromatic and intensely-infused with roasted crab shells and miso, the soup hit my taste buds like a well-made bisque.  It was sweet and purposefully salty with the taste of the briny crab that included a dollop of crab proteins on top the fluffy crab meat.  To make this completely balanced, there was even a background spiciness.  Even the house-made noodles were done beautifully as they were firmly al dente where they soaked up a touch of the broth for full effect.  Completing the dish were charred leaks that added a smoky brightness and some sorrel.

Up until now, the progression of dishes made absolute sense, but then the Milky Hot Chocolate with pistachio & honey cigar didn't seem to go.  The lightly creamy hot chocolate was far too sweet (although the roasted marshmallow was a treat).  Was it supposed to counteract the saltiness of the crab noodle?  Even if that was the plan, it was too far over to the sweet side of the flavour continuum.  On the other hand, the crispy cigar was really good.  Inside, the pistachio cream was sweet enough and offered up some tanginess that was a relief from the sweet hot chocolate.

We found the Hibiscus Pear Pavlova was much more appealing with a hibiscus poached pear, coconut brittle and ginger cream.  The tender chunks of pear were lightly sweet and floral.  With only a modest amount of ginger sharpness, the cream was a nice compliment to the pear while the sweet and aromatic toasted coconut brittle added a shot of sweetness.  Surprisingly, the pavolva on top was not overly sweet.  Texturally, it was airy and light. At the end, we were further treated to some Petit Fours that included chocolate truffles, grapefruit shiso fruit pate and financier cake.  This was a nice finish to an eye-opening meal.  On the surface, many of the items appeared to be simple, but the flavours were complex and at most times subtle.  We loved the sensible progression of the dishes (except the hot chocolate) where our senses were definitely peaked with aroma and umaminess.

The Good:
- Subtle, yet impactful flavours
- Flavours were built from ingredients, not from overseasoning
- Delightful service

The Bad:
- Milky Hot Chocolate too sweet
- Pork Chop pales in comparison to all the other dishes
- You have the accept the coziness of the room (which isn't a bad thing either)

Edible Canada (Granville Island Dine Out Preview)

*Restaurant is closed*

Our second stop on the Granville Island Dine Out Preview brought us to Edible Canada, which used to be located inside the Granville Island Market.  It has occupied the space across from it for a few years now and it is not only a lively bistro, it also has a small store attached to it at the back.  The focus of Edible Canada is to use sustainable Canadian ingredient to create unique tastes that represent our vast nation.  So their Dine Out Vancouver menu sports a few surprises including Alberta lamb heart and Newfoundland seal!


We started with their Pacific Cod and Pemberton Potato Pakoras with jalapeno apple chutney, fresh mint and pickles.  Crunchy and spiked with cumin, these pakoras did represent the Indian-inspiration to the dish.  They were a bit dry though, however, the sweet and slightly spicy chutney offered up enough moisture.  The entire dish exhibited a spicy brightness despite the appearance of being heavy.  Next up was the Crispy West Coast Humbolt Squid with chermoula vinaigrette, white bean hummus and dried olives.  I found the squid to be perfectly tender while super crunchy on the outside.  The dish was on the saltier side, but the acidity from the vinaigrette provided some balance along with the pepperiness.

My favourite appie was the Grilled Alberta Lamb Heart with Gaujillo adobo, cilantro and hominy corn grits.  Cooked to medium, the sliced heart meat was chewy, but in a good way.  I would say it was firm, yet still completely tender.  There was a definite spiciness to the dish provided by the adobo.  I enjoyed the chunky hominy corn grits as they provided the necessary starch to the dish.

Onto the mains, we had the Quebec Rabbit Orecchiette with mushrooms, confit onions, shaved brussels sprouts and parmesan.  I found the fresh pasta to be firmly al dente while mildly seasoned.  The buttery mushrooms added umaminess as well as an alternate texture.  On top, the bitter and crunchy brussels sprouts went well with the saltiness of the parmesan.  There was plenty of lean rabbit meat strewn throughout the pasta.  Ending off the savoury dishes, we had the Haida Gwaii Rockfish & Mussel Stew in a Moroccan tomato broth with heirloom carrots, chickpeas and cilantro. I found the broth to be tomatoey with a balanced amount of sweetness, spiciness and tanginess.  The fish was flaky and tender while the large mussels were briny and buttery.  The addition of crispy chickpeas was a nice textural touch.

For dessert, I was pretty impressed with the Pumpkin Sticky Toffee Pudding as it was not shockingly sweet like most versions.  It was not as soaked either, so it ate more like a dense cake.  That wasn't a bad thing though.  Moreover, the amount of pumpkin was also restrained so it wasn't overwhelming.  Loved the maple bourbon custard too as it was impactful and tasted like its description.  Lastly, we had the Chocolate Pout du Creme with cassis and crystalized ginger.  The mousse was rich and creamy with a noted bitterness while not being sweet.  However, the currents on top were pretty sweet as well as the candied ginger.  These were just some of the samples from their large DOV $30.00 menu.  A few items are subject to a surcharge though.  However, for the base price, the menu is interesting enough to give it a shot.

*All food and beverages were complimentary*

The Good:
- Attractive $30.00 price point
- Interesting Canadian-ingredient inspired menu
- Fair portions

The Bad:
- Surcharge on many of the choices
     

Captain's Boil

You'd think after my nightmare of an experience at the long gone Crawfish King in Richmond would scare me off of anything remotely close in the future.  Well, you would be wrong because either I have a short memory or I am a glutton for punishment.  While I was gone on my vacay this past Summer, the Captain's Boil opened their first BC location in Richmond.  Similar to the Boiling Crab in the States, the place offers up seafood prepared in plastic bags with your choice of sauce and accompaniments. 

Grace and I checked it out after what seemed to be an eternity of planning to go.  Was it cold feet?  Not really because we were greeted warmly and seated promptly.  Furthermore, our food came out fairly quickly.  Yes, the demons of Crawfish King were exorcised!  For me, I wanted to try the Cajun Fries (despite some resistance from Grace).  Turned out it was a good call since they were hot, crunchy and nicely spiced.  There was still a good amount of potato texture remaining.  For our seafood, the first item to arrive was 1 lb. of Shrimp in Lemon Pepper Sauce.  We found the white shrimp to be meaty with a slight snap and a good amount of natural sweetness (decent for frozen).  The lemon pepper sauce was pretty mild with only a slight kick and background acidity.

To kick things up a bit, we got the 1 lb. of Clams in the Captain's Boil Sauce (that combined all of the available options) in medium spice.  This was a bit greasy, yet had more impact due to the spice and garlickiness.  We felt it went well with the robust clam meat.  Once again, the clams were prepared properly being buttery with only a slight chew.  They were sweet and fresh.  We ended things off on a high note with the Whole Dungeness Crab in Garlic Sauce.  We added corn, potatoes and sausages for good measure.  The meaty crab was just right being fluffy and sweet.  The ample garlic kept things tasty without overwhelming the delicate crab.  We thought the sausages were a bit too soft for our liking though. But in general, the seafood was prepared properly and I think we chose the right sauces for each.

The Good:
- Seafood prepared right
- If you choose the right sauces, it pairs well
- Decent service

The Bad:
- Eating this way will always cost you
- Sausages were too soft  

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