Milestones Coquitlam Test Kitchen

There was a time that Milestone's was the place to be.  For those who remember (or are that old), we couldn't get enough of those Thai Drumettes, Spinach & Artichoke Dip, Portobello Mushroom Chicken, Burger with curly fries and of course their Prime Rib.  Yes, they were the sh*t and were already onto the "elevated chain restaurant" path, even before Cactus Club and Joey Tomato's (now known as Joey) pivoted from casual eats to a bit higher-end.  However, somewhere down the road, they were passed by the aforementioned chains as well as Earl's.  Now they have totally remodelled their Coquitlam location and added "Test Kitchen" to their name.  As with most test kitchens, the menu consists of items that are not available at any other location.   They are "test" dishes to see if they work with the customers.  We decided to try the place out to see if good things were cooking at Milestone's these days.

We arrived in time for Happy Hour and got their 3 for $39.00 deal, where we could pick any 3 appetizers from the ones listed.  Our favourite was easily the Calamari.  It featured large strips of squid that were quite tender with just the slightest of chew.  On the outside, there was a crispy and well-seasoned batter.  We found 2 different sauces on the side.  I thought the preserved lemon aioli was the one that complimented the calamari the best.  It was tangy and creamy while allowing the squid to stand out.  The other sauce consisted of spiced andouille sausage & tomato ragu.  Nice tang and spice, but better on a meatball.

On the topic of meatballs, we also had the Moroccan Meatballs.  These were fairly large in size and slightly dense.  However, the meatball itself was moist and naturally meaty.  There was enough filler in there to keep things tender without compromising the natural beef texture.  Since these were advertised at Moroccan, the spices offered up earthiness with the cumin and classic fall flavours with cloves.  The accompanying spiced tomato and pepper sauce was tasty being tangy and sweet with a bit of heat.  However, we really could've done with much more of it.  There was also crispy focaccia on the side.

Our last appie was the Sweet Chili Chicken Bites with crispy wonton strips, cucumber, green onion and sesame seeds.  As expected, the flavour profile of this dish was rather defaultish due to the use of sweet chili sauce.  Nothing particularly wrong with the dish as the chunks of breast meat were not dry and the batter was still crispy despite the dousing of sauce.  The sauce was typical being thick like a glaze and having mostly sweetness with just a touch of heat.  I think the addition of wonton strips and fresh cucumber helped with the texture and also provide some freshness.

For good measure, we got the OMG Pepperoni Pizza and it was loaded with toppings.  There was so much cheese and pepperoni on it that the crust couldn't stand up to it.  So beyond the crispy edges, the middle of the pizza was really soft.  Definitely a fork and knifer or if you so please, folded over.  This really tasted good though as the sauce was sufficient with an appealing sweet tanginess.  The amount of provolone and mozzarella made things stringy and cheesy.  Yes, the amount of pepperoni was generous which added salt and of course pepperiness.

Onto the mains, my daughter had the classic Portobello Mushroom Chicken.  It has changed a bit in terms of overall presentation and execution, but it remains as one of their best dishes.  Instead of capellini, they use fettuccine now which is a better choice.  I found that the thin strands of the original pasta got soft quickly while the fettuccine here was al dente.  Employing a basil pesto cream sauce rather than the mushroom cream sauce is a solid evolution.  Still plenty creamy, but now with some brightness, it is plenty tasty.  Of course, we can't forget about the chicken, still tender and juicy.

My son went for the other original item in the 1989 Burger.  It was a substantial burger back then and it isn't any different now.  Thick, juicy and nicely charred, the burger patty was as good as I had remembered.  It was one of my go-to items at Milestone's and I'm glad they kept it around.  It had smoked bacon and cheddar on a soft sesame egg bun.  However, the one thing that did change was the omission of the curly fries.  I loved those and miss them!  My son opted for the sweet potato fries, and they were fairly crispy.

Viv had one of the test kitchen items in the Seafood Risotto.  Generally, I've had very few good risottos in my lifetime, so I wasn't expecting much from this one.  Alas, the rice was overdone, but as a dish, it was not bad. The risotto didn't spread on the plate well, but it was still creamy and flavourful.  It might have bordered on being salty, but no one could complain it was bland.  There was a wealth of seafood present including bay scallops and shrimp with a half lobster on top.  We also found caramelized onions and leeks which provided sweetness and some brightness.  But the most defining ingredient was the lobster tomato broth which made things taste like a lobster bisque.  Quite tasty.

For myself, I continued the seafood theme with the Lobster Frites.  Featuring 2 split whole lobster tails and a pile of fries, this was quite appealing at first glance.  The charred lobster tails were prepared perfectly with juicy and bouncy meat.  It was barely cooked through retaining much of the natural sweetness and aroma.  They were basted some roasted garlic & herb butter which was also well-salted.  I enjoyed the fries as well since they were uniformly crispy.  They came with the classic watercress dip.

My mom went for her standby being the Steak Frites.  We asked for medium-rare and it came out as such.  The steak was sufficiently tender with a decent char and proper seasoning.  We found the demi-glace rather salty as well and being maybe a bit too thick.  It did have plenty of flavour as a result which meant the steak was not lacking flavour.  As for the fries, they were exactly like the ones on my plate and hence, they were pretty good.  

For dessert, we shared 2 of them including the Colossal Chocolate Cake.  Bringing back quasi-memories of the one I had at Claim Jumper, this was 6 layers tall and plenty chocolatey. I found the cake itself to be moist and not particularly sweet.  In between, the chocolate ganache was flavourful and purposefully sweet.  I found it plenty rich, but not heavy.  This cake was good and although we were full, we dusted it off.  I think the restrained sweetness and rich dark chocolate flavour made this cake.  Would definitely eat this again.

The other dessert was the Pistachio & White Chocolate Crème Brûlée.  Although it looked big, the plate was pretty shallow.  That was actually a good thing as a crème brûlée shouldn't be deep.  Hence, there was just enough creamy and lightly sweet custard underneath.  It was a bit nutty, but not too strong with pistachio.  The sugar topping shattered beautifully and provided the sweetness for the dessert.  Overall, Milestones Test Kitchen is not bad.  Sure, there could be some improvements made with most of the dishes, but compared to say...  the defunct White Spot R&D, it is miles ahead.  Now hopefully they bring back the Thai Drumettes!

The Good:

- Ample portions

- Not bad

- Excellent service

The Bad:

- Salt levels are a bit high

- Not bad, but could use further refinement

Happy Hour @ Trattoria (Burnaby)

After a delicious and well-priced Happy Hour at Italian Kitchen in Downtown, I planned to visit Trattoria in Burnaby for a similar experience.  For those who do not know, Trattoria belongs to the Glowbal Group, much like its older sibling, Italian Kitchen.  It is a bit more casual and relaxed compared to the higher-end Italian Kitchen.  Originally, I tried to make a reservation for Happy Hour (from 3:00pm to 5:00pm everyday), but apparently, they only take walk-ins during that time.  No worries though as we didn't have any difficultly finding a table.  Also, for those worried about parking, especially since Happy Hour happens during rush hour, they have underground parking (albeit not validated) available.

Seeing how we had 5 people, I really dove into the menu and ordered a bunch of dishes, but they started us off with an Amuse Bouche (Arancini).  These were crispy with medium-soft risotto in the middle with melted cheese.  Our first actual dish was the Baked Meatballs.  These large meatballs were soft and tender with natural meat texture still hanging around.  They were well-seasoned with the herbs coming through.  It was topped with a tangy tomato sauce as well as melted cheese.

Next up was the Shrimp & Calamari Fritto Misto.  This was a generous portion of tender, yet with a bite, squid.  It was buttery and not dry despite the batter being crispy and staying adhered to each piece.  It was also properly seasoned too.  As for the shrimp, it had a buttery snap.  Some shishitos were added to the mix and they were good too being tender but still intact.  Some calabrian chili aioli was served on the side.

Unlike the Bruschetta found at Italian Kitchen, the ones here were constructed using pizza bread.  Hence, they were a whole lot larger and ate differently.  We had the Tomato & Basil as well as the Zucchini & Stracciatella.  With classic tomato sweetness and tang to go with the fresh basil and EVOO, the original was the best in our opinion.  Pizza bread was chewy with some crispy parts and soft insides.  I thought the hummus on the latter made things a bit heavy and when combined with the zucchini, asparagus and stracciatella, the whole thing was wet.

One of the best deals on the Happy Hour menu has to be the Beef Carpaccio.  Sure, it consists of extremely thin slices of beef, but the plate was pretty huge.  The beef had a nice colour to it and was buttery and tender.  The mustard dressing was creamy with a bite while the amount of shaved pecorino added the right amount of salt.  Crunch and more salt came in the form of fried capers and some peppery brightness was provided by the baby arugula.  Brushed with EVOO, the pizza bread triangles were nutty, crispy and a good compliment to the beef.

Accompanied by the same delicious pizza bread triangles, the Sicilian Mussels was another solid dish.  Loved the large and plump mussels in this dish as opposed to the often scrawny PEI mussels (although they do taste great!).  I found these ones to be more briny than sweet.  They were just barely cooked through and bathed in broth consisting of olives, capers, nduja sausage, white wine and lemon.  Due to the sausage, it was plenty spicy and salty.  Nice acidity to balance though.

We ended up with two of their pizzas.  For only $15.00, they were a good deal, especially the fully loaded Funghi.   As you can see, there was a good amount of smoked pancetta, mushrooms, 

creamed leeks, sprouts and provolone.  Hence, we had salty smokiness to go with the woodsiness of the mushrooms.  Nice charring on the crust too.  We also went for the basic Margherita and due to less components on top, the crust was crispier.  Tomato sauce was tangy while the fresh basil (placed on top after the pizza was done) was impactful.

There are two pastas on the Happy Hour menu and we got both of them.  The first was the Bolognese with house-made penne.  I thought this was a competent pasta where the penne was al dente with a nice chew.  As for the sauce, it was definitely meaty with a proper viscosity.  It was thick with a mild tomato flavour while somewhat creamy due to the proper amount of milk/cream.  There was balancing amount of sweetness.

So the bolognese was good, but the Tagliatelle Ghiottone was even better in our opinion.  It featured firm pasta that was bathed in a delicious cream sauce.  I thought it was just rich enough that each strand of pasta was coated without it being heavy.  Little nuggets of tender chicken were plentiful while the slight hint of brandy was in the background.  Some parm added the necessary saltiness.

Although desserts are not part of the Happy Hour menu, we decided to get two of them anyways.  The first was the Torta di Cioccolato (or flourless chocolate torte).  This was rich and chocolatey while not dry (even though it looks it in the picture).  Really enjoyed the nutty hazelnut cream and the particularly the crunchy and sweet candied hazelnuts.  Even though some might view it as gimmick, the Signature Tableside Tiramisu is worth ordering.  I've had it before and it was quite good.  This was prepared tableside and in reality, there wasn't that much of a show.  Yet, since was made-to-order, it had not been sitting around in a fridge all day.  Hence, the espresso-soaked lady fingers were fluffy and not overly wet.  The mascarpone was creamy and stable (not separating) with just enough sweetness.  A good helping of freshly shaved chocolate completed the dessert.  Overall, the Happy Hour at Trattoria was good and featured a good amount of dishes.  We felt it was good value and worth a return visit.

The Good:

- Generally tasty food

- Excellent service

- Well-priced

The Bad:

- Would've preferred the bruschetta on crostinis rather than pizza bread

- Wished parking was validated

June on Cambie

It was about time I made a return visit to June on Cambie.  After all, the first time was delicious and although not inexpensive, the prices seemed reasonable with all things considered.  The place certainly has style with a modern, yet elegant dining space complete with a prominent bar.  Let's not forget that Head Chef Connor Sperling, formerly Chef-de-Cuisine at Published, is at the helm in the kitchen.  Along with Elem, June has been nominated for Best New Restaurant by Air Canada.  They are 2 of the hottest restaurants in Vancouver right now and I can totally see major awards coming their way.

For this visit, I decided to order some favourites along with some new dishes I haven't tried.  Dining at June would not be complete without their signature Crab Dip served with spiced madeleines.  They truly pack this dip with fluffy Dungeness crab and really nothing else other than the house-made crème fraîche and chives on top.  This way, the crab really was the star of the show where it was sweet, a bit briny and of course creamy from the crème fraîche.  The spiced madeleines were a bit sweet (maybe too sweet?) and firm, which held onto the crab well.

Of course we couldn't ignore their cocktails, so we got the Guava Batida and Chamberyzette.  We wanted some light and fruity cocktails which we got with these two.  The guava batida was tropical-tasting, sweet, tangy and slightly milky (due to the yogurt).  The rum did come through, but in a mild manner.  As for the chamberyzette, the sour strawberry cordial was at the forefront, which made it sweet and fruity.  Some vermouth hints in the form of earthiness was in the background.

Another favourite of mine is the Seared Hokkaido Scallops.  Served on the half shell, these perfectly seared scallops exhibited an aggressive caramelization.  Hence, it only helped concentrate the briny sweetness of the scallops.  Showing the precision in its execution, the scallops were still buttery soft with a rare centre.  On top, we found some fennel marmalade and chives.  Just a extra bit of sweetness (could be a problem for some who don't like it too sweet) with a side of brightness.  These sat in a butter sauce with lemon and verjus which provided a nutty loving hug with acidity.  So utterly delicious!

Continuing on with the staples at June, we had the gigantic Frogs Legs.  These massive things were juicy and tender.  On the outside, they were glazed with espellette and B.C. honey which offered up both sweetness, smokiness and the faint hint of spice.  If you can imagine, this was quite the flavour bomb since all of the above qualities were rather loud.  To bring balance to the boldness, we found a lime mignonette on the side.  This afforded a bright acidity which kept things from being too heavy.

Yep, the next dish was also another one I've had before in the Bluefin Tuna.  Encrusted with a cracked peppercorn blend, the tuna was lightly roasted on charcoal.  So you would think that it would be overly smoky and pepper right?  Well actually no.  Rather, the bluefin was still able to shine and be its bright and clean buttery self.  Now if that wouldn't overwhelm the fish, you'd think that the red pepper escabeche would be the culprit...  Once again, nope.  We definitely got the sweet and sour notes, yet the bluefin could still stand on its own.

Now onto a dish I've yet to try - the Paris Tartare.  This consisted of Haida Gwaii albacore tuna with a lemon vinaigrette and basil mayo.  This was a colourful and visually-appealing dish that had some French, but also Westcoast influences.  Now it wasn't Asian influence such as employing soy, sesame oil and the sort.  Rather, it was quite classic with an acidic vinaigrette balanced off with some mayo.  Hence, this was not a flavour bomb.  It was much more subtle and it let the beautiful fish do the heavy-lifting.  The soft-poached quail's eggs added some custardy elements and the tomatoes and radicchio afforded some brightness, bitterness and tang.  We had some crispy brioche toasts on the side.

Another dish I've yet to try was the Truffle Eggs.  These were simply soft-poached free-range eggs with a generous helping of truffle mayo on top.  At first, I was a bit concerned it would be overpowering but alas, it was quite restrained.  It was creamy with only a purposeful amount of truffle.  Providing some texture, we found nutty brown butter crumb on top with a bit of chives.  Back to the usual, we had the June Brioche with cultured butter and sea salt.  With a slightly crispy exterior and a fluffy interior, the warm bread accepted the creamy butter meltingly.  Such buttery goodness...

Second round of cocktails included the Genmaicha Clover Club and Verdita Colada.  Both of these had a bit of spice, which was welcomed.  The clover club had fruitiness in the form of lemon and raspberry while sweetness from the honey.  Since the base was gin, it wasn't overly strong, so the horseradish did come in at the end.  For the verdita colada, it had a kick from the chili oil and beautiful smokiness from the mezcal.  This was balanced off by the sour pineapple and the herbaceousness of the chartreuse.  We loved this cocktail and it was our favourite.

Finally getting some veggies into the meal, we had the Beet & Endive.  This was pretty simple where it allowed the main ingredients to shine.  The golden and red beets were tender, sweet and earthy.  The fresh crunch of the endives with just a touch of bitterness was the perfect foil for the beets.  Things were dressed in a sherry and walnut vinaigrette.  Next, we had a daily feature in the Burrata with roasted squash and sunflower seeds atop a miso pumpkin seed puree.  First and foremost, the burrata was fresh as evidenced by the creamy centre and delicate casing.  Just some EVOO and sea salt was all it needed.  The squash was perfectly-textured being firm while soft in the middle.  It was intensely sweet.  That miso paste was full of umami and nuttiness.  Really enjoyed that with the squash.

Here is the first dish that was just "ok".  The Halibut Beurre Blanc was a pretty dish, but the fish itself was a bit stiff.  Nice sear on the outside which created a crust and it was also well-seasoned.  But the flakes of fish were lacking moisture.  Loved the beurre blanc as it was almost creamy with a nice amount of acidity.  With the addition of Sauternes, we had some sweetness too.  The greens and herbs surround the fish really helped brighten the dish.

Before we ordered all this food, we were deciding which steak we should get.  Originally, it was the Bavette since it would be smaller, but we did the YOLO thing and ordered the 12oz Aged Ribeye.  Turned out to be a great idea as the steak was beautifully prepared and super tender.  Being aged 40 days, it was in the sweet spot that it became softer and more nutty without tasting like blue cheese (beyond 45 days).  This sat in a rich brandy sauce.

On the side, it was served with beef fat Fries accompanied by moutarde extraordinaire and mayo maison (essentially fancy mustard and aioli).  These fries were fantastic being crunchy, hot and full of nutty beef fat goodness.  Tasted like it was basted with butter.  To balance this sinful treat, we had the Salade Maison featuring butter and romaine lettuce in a dijon vinaigrette.  Bright, fresh and crunchy while sauced in a tangy and sweet dressing, this was a good interlude between bites of steak.

Before we got to dessert, we were served some Nitro Espressos which were full of coffee flavour but it wasn't bitter nor too strong.  Furthermore, they were mildly strong and sweet, perfect to go with their signature dessert - Chocolate.  This featured a milk chocolate mouse atop a hazelnut praline base.  Good textural contrast and also delicious and creamy chocolate mousse.  A Frangelico crème anglaise was served tableside which amped the hazelnut flavour even more so.  As if we needed anymore creaminess, there was so chantilly on the side (I still ate it happily...).

We ended up trying both of their available Soft-Serve du Jour.  The first was a Cream Cheese Soft-Serve with plum & peach crumble.  Nice temperature contrast between the warm crumble and cold soft-serve.  It was definitely cheesy and creamy while the crumble had nice tartness and crunch.  The other one we had was the Strawberry Soft-Serve, which was more like a sherbert being creamy but having sorbet vibes.  It was tangy and mildly sweet.  Very refreshing.  In the end, this was another delicious visit to June on Cambie.  Considering the level of service and food quality, I find the prices to be reasonable.  Whether they win the Best New Restaurant by Air Canada or not, I feel great things are coming their way real soon!

The Good:

- Well-executed dishes

- Cool vibes

- Attentive service

The Bad:

- Smaller tables are tightly packed

- Possibly some items are a bit too sweet

Song by Kin Kao

Here we go with another return visit to Song!  This is particularly significant because we ate here shortly after they reopened.  They were victims of a fire and were able to get up and running in just a month.  You will now notice that "Kin Kao" is prominently displayed above their doorway (paying homage to their original restaurant on Commercial Drive).  We had actually dined at Song earlier in the year, but I didn't blog about.  This time around, we had some pretty awesome new dishes and I really wanted to share!

I don't believe we've ever dined at Song and "not" have the Laab Wings.  These flats were split down the middle and hence were evenly deep fried.  The crispiness of the rendered skin was perfect while the meat was still moist and tender.  I really think everyone should prepare their wings like this!  Furthermore, the laab seasoning was more effective this way as more surface area was coated Hence, we got tangy, sweet, salty and spicy.  So addictive!

Probably the grandest-looking dish was the Papaya Salad with Soft-Shell Crab.  The salad itself was bright, fresh and texturally on-point.  With each bite, the crunch from the green papaya and carrots was pleasing.  Temperature was just right too.  There was a nice balance of sweetness, tanginess and spice which really tickled our tastebuds.  The soft shell crab was not merely for decoration as it added a light crunch and creamy briny-sweetness.

Another solid dish was the Thai Chili Tofu.  Sure, it didn't look like much, but I assure you, it was a textural and taste delight.  The core of the dish was the perfectly fried slices of tofu.  With the right firmness, the tofu was still soft and silky while holding up to the aggressive deep-fry.  It was crispy and robust which held up to the delicious garlicky and spicy sauce.  Some fried basil and bell peppers added aroma and sweetness as well.

One of the most simplest dishes we ordered was the Daily Vegetable Stirfry, which happened to be the Tong Choy or Stir Fried Water Spinach.  Unlike the Chinese version, this was not prepared with fermented tofu. Rather, we got some brininess from the addition of fish sauce as well as some small dried shrimp.  There was considerable wok hei which meant there was smokiness and intense caramelization.  We got some spice from the chili peppers too.  The water spinach still had crunchy stalks with tender leaves.

Another new dish that we've not had before was the Green Curry with Beef Shank.  Sure, we've had a green curry at Song in the past, but with the tender melt-in-our-mouths beef shank, it was a totally different experience.  There was much more body and robustness provided by the beef rather than chicken or fish.  For the curry itself, it was delicious as usual.  Lightly creamy and definitely briny, it had good spice.  To completely enjoy all of the sauce, multiple bowls of white rice would be ideal.

Of course we got the Pad Thai like we always do.  Moreover, we got it vegetarian-style as per usual.  Predictably, it was delicious as the balance between tamarind tanginess and palm sugar sweetness was on point.  Factor in the brininess saltiness of fish sauce and you have truly a wealth of flavours.  We couldn't forget about the wok hei either and the smokiness added depth.  Noodles were al dente and the dried baby shrimp on the top just added that something something to the dish.

Unexpectedly, the Kra Pao Beef arrived in big chunks of tender brisket rather than the ground up version.  Oh that was a nice surprise as the pieces of beef were so tender and had bits of tendon on them.  Texturally, they were an absolute delight.  Since they wok-fried the beef (that was already braised), it exhibited intense sweetness, smokiness and some spiciness.  The gai lan were vibrant and crunchy.

We had a really refreshing dessert in the Lod Chong Coconut Granita.  This was so light and refreshing with the sweetness of the corn being at the forefront.  But that gave way to the aromatic sweetness of coconut that worked well with the nutty and earthy sweet taro.  Really, the natural sweetness of the ingredients made this dish.  Overall, this was another delicious meal at Song.  I've never had a bad one here and it is no wonder they hold onto their Michelin Bib Gourmand year-after-year.

The Good:
- Impactful flavours
- Excellent wok hei
- Thoughtful execution

The Bad:
- It ain't cheap (I think they should be Michelin-Star rather than Bib Gourmand)
- Not the easiest place to find parking