Bar Corso

While I was in Montreal last year, I sadly didn't get a chance to meet up with Sexy Mexi.  But she was in town in August and had some time to meet up!  We decided to check out Bar Corso on Commercial Drive where they offer up beverages with small plates to share.  They describe themselves as a place where you might forget that you are in Vancouver and be transported to the streets of Rome.  Well, I must attest to that as I was just in Rome last year.  It really felt like a slice of the old world with drinks and delicious Italian plates.

Since we were in time for Happy Hour, we decided to get 2 each of the Tonno and Wagyu Crostino.  If this was what we were going to get for our entire meal just based on these little bites, we were in for a treat!  Nicely charred, the crostinis were aggressively oiled and maintained their crunchy texture despite being topped with wet components.  I found the tuna to be buttery soft and sweet while the tonnato underneath added even more appealing fishiness and creaminess.  The fried capers provided the necessary salt.  As for the Wagyu, it was buttery soft while the addition of smoked bone marrow emulsion added a smoky silkiness that was full of depth.  Those pickles broke up the heaviness and the onion ash gave a background smokiness.

Next, the Beef Carpaccio was presented in a very unique manner.  They sliced the dry-aged Wagyu thin and wrapped it around watercress and then topped it off with capers, egg yolk jam and puffed quinoa.  I found this way easier to eat as we could just pick them up and pop them in our mouths.  The meat was buttery with a pleasant meatiness where the watercress brightened things up with a slight pepperiness.  Loved the egg yolk jam as it was custardy and aromatic.  Capers added crunch and saltiness while the crunch of quinoa was so appealing.

Absolutely loved the Italian Burrata with heirloom tomatoes, fermented honey, balsamic pearls and walnuts.   This was a substantial plate with a variety of plump tomatoes that were flavourful and sweet on their own.  However, the addition of fermented honey not only imparted some sweetness, it also had tanginess.  That was further enhanced by the balsamic pearls which provided more tang and sweetness.  As for the burrata, it was creamy and was a natural compliment to the tomatoes.  Loved the crunch of the walnuts as a textural contrast.

The Fior Di Zucca was a little bit different than other versions I've had.  Usually, the zucchini blossom is stuffed with some type of cheese, usually ricotta.  Hence, it is fairly light and matches the blossoms delicate texture despite the deep frying. In this case, it was stuffed with an A5 Wagyu meatball.  If you can imagine, this was much more robust and filling.  The meat was moist while till meaty in texture.  The white plum mostarda added sweetness and a slight kick to the plate while the spiced house ricotta provided creaminess.

Onto the bigger plates, we had the Aglio e Olio Di Mare.  This was friggin' fantastic featuring al dente angel hair pasta that was bathed in EVOO, calabrian chili, garlic and bisque.  In addition to this, this was a expert level use of salt.  Just bordering on salty without being so, the flavours were amped as I got brininess, creaminess, silkiness and a bit of spice.  There was sauteed prawns that went through some high heat as the flavours were caramelized but they were not overcooked.

Lastly, we had the 6 oz Bavette Steak with roasted romain and fermented garlic zabaione.  Prepared somewhere between medium-rare and medium, the steak was still moist and tender.  It was seasoned well on its own, but the pungent zabaione was creamy and aromatic.  Loved the grilled romaine as it was still slightly crunchy but nicely wilted.  It was also well-salted.  Overall, we quite enjoyed the food at Bar Corso.  Definitely reminded me of Rome, especially sitting outside.  I thought the pricing was reasonable and the portion sizes were fair.  I would definitely come back to chill outside again (when the weather is permitting) and share some food and drinks.

The Good:
- Tasty food
- Loved sitting outside
- Fair pricing given the quality and portion sizes

The Bad:
- Outside is fantastic, but inside is a bit dark

Bravo

I've been meaning to visit Bravo for quite some time.  With its Vanmag win as the best new restaurant, I felt it was a place that I needed to try ASAP.  Located in the former Ubuntu Canteen, Bravo features sustainable seafood with a dry-aged fish program.  Chef Jonah Joffe is both co-owner and Executive Chef.  I was so impressed with my first visit, I came back within a month to try more dishes.  This blog post will include dishes from both meals.

The first thing on the menu is the Oysters and depending on the day, there are certain ones you can choose from.  We decided on the Shigoku and Sunseekers since they were relatively smaller, which we prefer.  The Sunseekers were much creamier and had a hint of cucumber.  With a mild brininess and balanced flavour, the Shigoku had a clean finish.  Lemon wedges, horseradish, spicy cucumber aguachile and fermented red jalapeno were served with these.  I really enjoyed both of the condiments as the cucumber was refreshing and bright while lightly spicy.  Being spicier and more bold, the fermented red jalapeno went well with the Sunseekers.

Sometimes a simple Burrata turns out to be one of the highlights of the meal.  This was such the case where the creamy burrata was complimented well with braised tomatoes, kale gremolata and pistachios.  Since burrata is such a mild-tasting cheese (albeit buttery and creamy), it needs a boost and indeed the components did that.  The fresh braised tomato added sweetness and tanginess.  Then well-seasoned gremolata brought a bright tang and aromatics.  Of course the pistachios did its salty nutty thing with some added texture to the dish.  This was served with Livia Sourdough, but on the 2nd visit, we actually added an extra dish that was served with whipped butter and maldon salt.  That bread was good to soak up everything as most dishes were served with a killer sauce.  Loved that butter as it was creamy and airy.

I always enjoy a toast with fish on it (particularly anchovies), so when I spotted the Gravlax Toast, it was a must order.  To top it off, it also included boquerones!  Yes, I got my anchovy toast in a round about way...  In addition to that, we found café de Paris butter and fresh herbs.  The combination of tangy brininess of the boquerones with the sweet butteriness of the salmon ensured that our taste buds were taken care of.  The seasoned butter provided extra seasoning and richness (reminded me somewhat of the sauce I had at Le Relais de L'Entrecôte) while the herbs (in particular the dill) afforded some bright and fresh flavours.

One of their signature dishes is the Tofino King Salmon with maple ginger dressing, cucumber and avocado. This dish was all about the main ingredient as it should be.  The slices of aged salmon were super buttery and soft.  The natural sweet fishiness (in a tasty way) was at the forefront.  I thought the dressing was super delicious and impactful without getting in the way of the salmon.  There was a certain umaminess about it where it wasn't exactly salty, but there was lots of flavour.  The sweetness of the maple probably helped curb the saltiness.

Another showstopper was the Spencer Gulf Hiramasa with passionfruit aguachile, cantaloupe and espelette.  This was so good, we ordered it both times!  The firm hiramasa was a bit buttery while naturally sweet.  That passionfruit aguachile was spicy, sweet and tangy.  Sure, this was a case of the sauce overtaking the main ingredient, but it worked.  It was so good, we wanted to coat each piece of fish with as much as we could.  This passionfruit aguachile would be a great sorbet too!

From powerful to subtle, we transitioned to the Hokkaido Scallops with coconut leche de tigre, calamansi and finger lime.  Since Hokkaido scallops are so delicate, the sauce had to be both memorable without drowning out the natural sweetness.  Call it a success as the buttery scallops were still the main focus, but the aromatics of the coconut milk were present as well as a background brininess.  Acidity was balanced with the calamansi and finger lime.

Another dish we ordered both times was the Fremantle Octopus with brava sauce, labneh and tomatillo.  The braised octopus was tender, yet still retained its signature bite.  It was torched, so that there was some caramelization and slight charring.  Normally, we find brava sauce on top of potatoes, but in this case, it provided quite the tanginess and acidity.  Possibly a bit too powerful, but it was dialed back with the creamy labneh.  Other than the contrasting colour, the tomatillo sauce added another layer of tanginess.

One of the best dishes was the Manila Clams in a shiro dashi with fried tofu and sesame.  All the clams were fully opened and cooked perfectly.  They were plump, buttery and at their briny best.  That clam nectar seeped into the dashi where it was sweet, briny, buttery and full of umaminess.  I would've preferred a less firm tofu, but at the same time, I understand that a softer one would possibly fall apart in the cooking process.  The side of sourdough was a must here as the broth couldn't be wasted.

The one dish we were indifferent about was the Kale Gnocchi.  Nothing wrong with the sauce here as the pistou was creamy, aromatic and bright.  Interestingly, they added toasted pine nuts to the dish which made this a quasi-pesto.  However, rather than blending it into the sauce, it was more impactful as whole nuts.  Loved the maitake mushrooms where they provided "meatiness" and the onions added sweetness.  We also had some parmigiano reggiano crisps for texture and saltiness.  So the main issue was the gnocchi itself.  They were pillowy soft, but in mid-chew, they were mealy.  We would've preferred a firmer gnocchi.

Another awesome dish was the Tagliolini with humboldt squid bolognese, taggiasca olives and herb ricotta.  Beyond the al dente pasta, which was neatly plated, the bolognese was beautiful.  I've never had it without some form of pork and/or beef, so the squid was definitely different.  It was tender, yet with a rebound bite.  There was some natural sweetness to compliment the tang of the tomato.  Extra punch was provided by the sweet olives and everything was balanced out by the creamy ricotta.  Excellent dish.

The Cascade Steelhead was another solid dish where the fish itself was perfectly executed.  Flaky, moist and still buttery, the steelhead had a rich flavour.  It sat atop a horseradish soubise which was creamy and rich.  The horseradish was definitely there without being a distraction.  There was natural sweetness from the onions.  Hidden underneath the broccolini and dill, we found some crispy fingerling potatoes.  About that dill, it was nice addition to the plate as it brightened things up. 

Last but not least, the Seared Scallops was higher level. Each one of the plump scallops were seared beautifully while still being a bit rare inside and supremely buttery.  They were well-seasoned but the lemongrass & coconut sauce was so aromatic and impactful, it just made the dish.  Unfortunately, both times, we were so full, we didn't get to dessert.  I guess that would be on my next visit (which is guaranteed).  For these first 2 meals, the food was fantastic and well-executed.  Loved their aged fish and frankly, all of the other seafood creations. Bravo definitely earns its title as best new restaurant. 

The Good:
- Expertly-prepared seafood
- Bold and impactful flavours
- Focused menu

The Bad:
- Gnocchi was not our favourite

 

Mon Lapin

So when you are named the #1 restaurant in Canada according to Canada's 100 Best, there are some pretty high expectations.  Well, shortly after this was announced, I made sure to get a reservation as soon as I was able.  We were going to be in Montreal anyways and of course I was going to see for myself what all the fuss is about this wine bar that has transformed into something bigger, literally and figuratively (restaurant has gotten bigger and their menu has leveled-up).

Seeing how it was a nice day and not too hot, we decided to sit outside in their quaint patio.  We ordered a good selection of items including the Razor Clams with fava beans and ham.  Simple, yet elegant, this dish was all about pure flavours.  We had the sweetness of the clams nicely accented by the mild saltiness of the ham.  Beyond the colour, the fava beans provided an earthy sweetness.  We doubled-up on this dish since it would usually only come with 2 servings.

My favourite dish was the Radish Parfait with chicken liver mousse and a supplement of Fried Chicken Oysters.  Oh look at those beautiful fresh-from-the-farm radishes!  They were so crunchy, bright and earthy with a bite.  Dipped into the creamy, sweet and airy mousse, it was divine.  Let's not forget about the chicken oysters as they were crunchy on the outside while revealing the unmistakable tender juicy little nuggets.

Sure, the next item was not the sexiest thing we had, but who wouldn't want some Bâtard with "bon beurre" (good butter) and La Villana EVOO?  Well, the bread was fantastic with a crust exterior giving way to soft chewy insides.  That butter was really good being creamy and nutty with enough saltiness.  The star was the EVOO as it was super flavourful with hints of pepperiness and bitterness.

Moving on, we had the Scallop Crudo with rhubarb water, sorrel and buckwheat butter.  This was simplicity at its best since there was not much in the way of overpowering items in the dish.  This let the sweetness of the buttery scallops be the highlight.  Light acidity, sweetness and nuttiness complimented the scallops.  This was a truly a refreshing dish that was perfect for a summer day.

Now for something a bit different, we had the Le Croque Pétoncle.  This reminded me somewhat of Chinese shrimp toast, but with scallop mousse instead of shrimp mousse.  This was well-prepared with evenly toasted buttery bread with spongy sweet scallop mousse.  These ate quite well and were a textural delight.  This was served with a classic rouille in the middle that added an aromatic creaminess.  Once again, this was a double-order of this dish.

Yep, we had to double-up our order of the Gnudi di Ricotta as well since we all wanted one of everything.  So this consisted of ricotta gnudi with deceptively similar balls of white turnip and garnished with turnip leaves.  The dish was finished in a very green pesto, so combined with the leaves, this was basically monotone.  It didn't taste that way though as the creaminess of the gnudi came through and it was seasoned enough to stand on its own.  However, the pesto was cheesy, nutty and herbaceous.

Hidden underneath a slice of mortadella (I moved it so we could see underneath), the Whelks were finished with fennel and herbs.  Nothing too complex about this dish as the whelks were the star being briny and sweet.  Texturally, they were like bigger clams and had a tender chew to them.  Loved the tender fennel as it provided classic licorice notes and the mortadella added some saltiness.

One of the most unique preparations was the Sourdough-Crusted Chicken (yes with foot still attached) with potatoes, Manila clams and yellow wine.  Well that crust was amazing with a firm crunchiness that gave way to super tender and juicy meat (even the breast).  Yep, I ate the chicken foot too...  The wine sauce was slightly briny due to the clams and was savoury with some sweetness.  Those potatoes were tender and creamy in the middle.

Our final savoury dish was the Aged Pork with crispy pig ears, pork fat morels and eel sauce.  That fatty pork was cooked perfectly with just a touch of pink.  Hence it was tender and juicy with a heightened "porkiness".  Those earthy and luscious morels were complimented the pork beautifully. Can't forget about those crispy pig ears!  They were gelatinous, fatty and yes, crispy.

For dessert, we shared the Pannacotta with Quebec strawberries, elderberry gelee and elderberry flowers.  This was super refreshing, light and full of floral notes.  The pannacotta itself was perfect as it was creamy and fully set without being too stiff.  This was a light and fruity finish to a solid meal.  Mon Lapin has not only delicious share plates, their wine list is extensive.  Great place to share a bottle or 2 or 3 while dining on small plates.  The question is it #1 in Canada?  Personally I would say no because I like Published on Main in Vancouver more, but I can't deny that Mon Lapin is a pretty good too.

The Good:

- Fresh and delicious share plates

- Extensive wine list

- Knowledgeable and professional staff

The Bad:

- Main dining room can be warm

- Your bill can get up there if you are hungry and thirsty

Published on Main

Here I am at Published on Main once again.  This is my 7th visit and if you know me, a restaurant has to be damn good for that to happen.  I truly believe it deserves all the accolades it receives.  Recently, it was named #3 restaurant in Canada by Canada's 100 Best.  #1 is Mon Lapin in Montreal and I dined there a few weeks ago.  Spoiler alert - I know I haven't posted Mon Lapin yet, but for me personally, Published wins hands down.  Love their creative dishes with equally unique plating.

This time around, we had to start with one of their classics - Chips & Dip featuring smoked fish and onion mixed within the creamy dip.  Some fresh dill on top finished this concoction.  Absolutely love the viscosity of the dip as it adhered to each chip with a certain richness.  The chips were semi-thick and uniformly crispy with enough saltiness.  The smokiness of the fish came through while it provided body to the dip.  Naturally, the onions provided a fresh and bright sharpness.

Believe it or not, for all the times I've been here, it has never occurred to me to try the Aebleskiver.  Very shocking as this is one of their classic menu items.  It consisted of 3 savoury Danish donuts filled with stewed herbs.  One bite and the cake-light texture of the donut was not exactly light, but it was appealingly moist.  The herbs offered up plenty of flavour but the herb emulsion really put the dish over the top with a creamy and bright condiment.

To get fill our veggie quota, we had the Grilled Summer Vegetables with miso bagna cauda.  On this plate, we found charred broccolini and snap peas that were pretty well-salted.  Hence, they ate with a well-seasoned smokiness even without the bagna cauda.  However, the fermented saltiness really help bring out the natural flavours of the crunchy snap peas and broccolini.  Impactful veggies, beautiful dish.

Not to be outdone, we were also served the Summer Bounty with both yellow and green zucchini atop a tasty paste.  Edible flowers and truffled marcona almonds finished off the dish.  Tender with still a buttery crunch, the zucchini slices were perfectly prepared.  We felt the tasty paste had a particularly Asian flavour and the texture of pureed beans.  It has was on the saltier side with hits of sweetness and spice.

I guess we didn't delve heavily into the meats for our initial dishes, as the Ravioli alla Vodka featured a creamy fresh cheese filling.  The pasta itself was fairly thin while still tender and al dente.  It was bathed in a rich and creamy vodka sauce where the alcohol was properly cooked down (and also restrained in the amount).  So I could taste the essence and that was it.  Love the chanterelles as they had a buttery texture with bite while offering up the usual light fruitiness. 

Off to our first protein, we had the colourful and beautifully plated BC Halibut with fresh summer veggies and a vierge dressing.  The combination of grape tomatoes, lemon juice, olive oil and herbs really made this dish bright.  The citrus segments provided another layer of acidity as well sweet juiciness.  We found some tender, yet firm pieces of squash that had slightly soaked up the sauce.  However, the star was the halibut (as it should be).  It was flaky and buttery, as with perfectly prepared and fresh halibut should be. 

You can never go wrong with any form of Scallops at Published.  So we got their current iteration, which consisted of expertly-seared scallops that were caramelized on the outside while still rare on the inside.  The result was a buttery and sweet scallop with proper seasoning on the outside.  In the middle, we found fresh corn in a smoked garlic popcorn butter.  This was aromatic, sweet and had the essence of popped corn.  This was our favourite dish.

As always, we also go for the beef dish, whatever it is and this time around it was the Beef Striploin with chanterelles and grilled kale in a cowboy sauce.  As you can see, the steak was prepared a perfect and uniform medium-rare.  It was properly rested too, so it was juicy and tender.  The combination of chanterelles (and their jus from the saute) and the cowboy sauce added body, earthiness and buttery tanginess to the dish.

We were also served the Lamb Belly with gem lettuce with a cilantro dressing.  This sported fatty and super tender lamb belly that practically melted-in-my-mouth.  It was grilled enough to have a smoky char and resulting caramelization on the outside.  It was sauced with a sweet BBQ glaze that helped balance the savouriness.  On the side, the crisp lettuce was tangy and sweet with a cilantro-forward dressing.

For dessert, we went for the ol' standby being the Hay featuring aerated hay custard with green apple, meringue and chamomile.  If you ever wondered what hay tasted like, this would be the perfect way to do it.  In addition to some dry grassiness, there was earthy and nutty notes.  The custard was light, creamy and purposefully sweet.  The key to this dessert was the broken meringue as it added an airy crunch.  As you can see, this was another delicious meal at Published.  We come here so often that 2 of the dishes were comped. I truly think that they need to return to their #1 ranking for the following year.

The Good:

- Expertly-prepared dishes that shows attention to detail

- Intentional flavours that are impactful

- On point service

The Bad:

- Need to order lots in order to be full, but not a bad thing if you want to try more

Bar Susu

If you've followed me for at least the last 3 years, you'll know my love for Published on Main.  Hence, I am completely not surprised that they have received a multitude of awards and distinctions since they opened.  So when the same ownership group added Bar Susu where the The Whip used to be located, I was anxiously wanting to visit the place.  Well, after a few near-visits, we finally made it down to check the place out.  Now don't expect the place to be Published, as it is a bit more lively with a youthful energy.  The menu is much smaller, yet, as they name implies, a larger focus on beverages.

We started things off with the Shishito Peppers with furikake and Maggi mayo.  These were blistered and on the softer side.  The amount of furikake was quite aggressive, but that meant there was no absence of impact and spice.  Naturally, shishitos are rather mild, but a few of them were hot.  It was fun guessing which one was spicy in a Doritos Roulette manner.  Loved the Maggi mayo as it was full of umami.  Wished we had more of it though.  The puffed rice on top added a nice crunch.

Next, I had the Chicken Liver Rosette with cherry confiture and pickled rutabaga.  The key word here is "I" because they serve these individually.  Since I am the only one that love chicken liver, we only ordered one.  I loved the crispiness of the rosette where it was filled with creamy and flavourful chicken liver mousse.  It was sweet with definite chicken liver taste and cognac.  Pickled rutabaga on top provided some tang to lighten things up.

Topped with sunchoke crisps and parsley, the Beef Tartare had a particularly Asian influence with citrus kosho dressing and tobiko.  I enjoyed the pops of the tobiko that helped break up the smooth texture of the beef.  The tartare itself was bright with balanced acidity.  Eating the tartare by itself was delicious enough and impactful.  I thought the nori sheets on the side were a bit too strong tasting and took away from the beautiful tartare.  I would've liked to see shrimp chips or any other tapioca-based chip as a better vessel.

Featuring cute jicama dinos, the Dinosaur Kale Salad was well-dressed with miso citrus.  The tender strips of kale were full-flavoured due to the dressing.  Once again, another dish with noted acidity and impact.  There was plenty of comté cheese on top to provide nuttiness.  Rather than using a harder cheese, the salad was less salty (which was a good thing).  I absolutely loved the Japanese rice crackers as they provided a light and slightly salty crunch.

My absolute favourite dish of the meal had to be the Hot Smoked Trout atop spinach gomaae and dashi butter.  So buttery and soft, the trout really did melt-in-my-mouth.  No chewing necessary!  Beyond that, the smoke was just enough to provide a background essence without overwhelming the delicate fish.  Not too sweet, the gomaae provided an aromatic nuttiness.  This was further complimented by the rich and silky dashi butter that also had an herbaceous finish.  To literally top it off, the crispy fish skin provided the necessary textural contrast.

If the trout was my favourite, the Sablefish was a very close second.  Although sablefish can be very forgiving, the cook on it was perfect though.  It was buttery and flaky while being lightly torched.  The fish itself was well-seasoned, but the tomato butter really put it over-the-top.  We could really taste the essence of tomato and it broke up the heaviness of the butter.  There was barley in the sauce and it added some chew and texture.  Maitake mushrooms and seaweed provided both earthiness and umami to the dish.

Our last savoury item was the Pork Collar with miso, pumpkin orange puree and sauteed Swiss chard & chanterelles.  The pork was properly seasoned and prepared perfectly with just a bit of pink.  It was juicy and tender with a classic bounce texture.  I thought the puree was very bright due to the orange and it was the predominant flavour.  Also well-seasoned, the Swiss chard was cooked just enough and benefited from the deliciousness of the mushrooms.

Onto dessert, we had the Chocolate Mousse filled with cherry and accompanied by butterscotch.  The thing that really elevated the impact was the sprinkle of fleur de sel.  It heightened both the sweetness of the butterscotch and the intensity of the chocolate.  We would've liked even more of it!  Beyond the creamy mousse, the sweet tang of the cherries provided layers of flavour.  Some crunch in the middle added texture.  Even though Bar Susu is its own restaurant, it is hard to not have some comparisons to its older sister restaurant.  Is it as good as Published?  Well, that is not a fair question since they are not the same in many ways.  I would say Bar Susu is good and the old wood building has real charm.  Personally, I would eat at Published first, but I am not opposed to returning to Bar Susu either.

The Good:
- The building has real charm
- Service is attentive
- Food is generally good

The Bad:
- Menu is a bit limited, but the focus is not only on food here