24 Suns

Hoping to try something a bit more elevated while we were in Oceanside, we found out about 24 Suns.  This place is Michelin-recommended and features a mainly Chinese menu with some French influences.  There is also a tasting menu available that shows off the Chefs Nic Webber and Jacob Jordan's fine-dining training and time at Michelin 3-Star Addison in San Diego.

Our Asian gastronomical journey started with a small bite in the form of Shrimp Toast.  This was quite good where the shrimp mousse was light and airy with an appealing rebound texture.  Nice balance between sweet and salty while still having a natural shrimp brininess.  Unlike many versions of shrimp toast, this was not greasy, yet still was uniformly crispy on the bottom.  Nice start to the meal.

From the small bite, we moved onto a collection of snacks that included Hibiscus Jellyfish.  It was light and buttery with a bit of crunch.  Flavors were bright and lightly-seasoned.  Below and to the left, we found Chilled White Fungus with young bamboo.  This was a subtle dish that focused on textures.  The white fungus had a light crunch while the young bamboo mirrored that.  The brightness of the celery juice paired well.  Finally, the Oyster Yuba Salad featured the delicately chewy texture of tofu skin.  There was brininess, sweetness and a touch of spice from the Fresnos.

With an array of lively colors, the Yi Sangh or Prosperity Salad (also known as Lo Hei) featured trout belly and kanpachi alongside fruits and veggies.  There was some ikura, chia seeds and 3-year umeboshi.  When combined altogether, we had a wide range of flavors and textures.  Things were bright, sweet and a bit tangy as well as brininess with a bit of spicy bitterness too. 

Sitting in a fermented habanada butter sauce, we found two scallop and pork Siu Mai.  Since they used scallop rather than shrimp, the bounce texture was more subtle and softer.  I thought the dumpling was rather airy rather than dense, which made it extremely easy to eat.  With a dab of finger lime on top, it added the necessary tartness and citrus to the dish.  The star of the show was the sauce as it was sweet and aromatic without being too spicy.

Hitting all of the Chinese classics, we were served a version of the classic Turnip Cake.  This was a fairly large piece that was not a one-biter.  There was some shrimp in there to give it some body and meaty snap.  The texture of the turnip cake itself was somewhat soft with just a small bite.  This was battered and deep fried, which added a textural contrast.  On top, we found some briny XO sauce as well as some green garlic, celery tops, parsley and dill.  With all things combined, we got herbaceousness, bitterness, spice and brightness.  This went a long way in lightening things up from the deep fried turnip cake.

One dish we had that wasn't exactly Asian (but still had some influences) was the Lotus-wrapped Trout.  This was sous-vide where its appearance looked raw, but it was cooked.  Hence, the texture was super buttery and tender. It sat in a coconut fennel fumet which was full of natural fish sweetness and aromatics from the coconut.  Some Sichuan chili added just a slight kick at the end.

One of the most interesting dishes was the Claypot Chili Eggplant.  You can't see it in the picture, but believe me, the claypot was smoking hot.  Hence, the smokiness was definitely there.  Those eggplant-stuffed squash blossoms were full of spicy, saltiness, umaminess and tang.  On the side, we found Youtiao which were crunchy and topped with tuna sugar.  We didn't think it needed the sugar for this application though.

We were each served a mini-sized Lanzhou Beef Noodle Soup.  This was pretty good with chewy noodles sitting in a flavorful broth that had umami and aromatics.  It wasn't salty which was good.  The best part of the dish was the large piece of super tender smoked short rib topped with chiu chow sauce.  Hence, we got a combination of smokiness, spice and garlickiness.

The most interestingly-plated dish was the Cigarette & Coffee.  Cleverly constructed, the "cigarette" was actually stuffed with coffee-braised duck.  These were crunchy whereas the duck was tender with smokiness and depth.  On the side, we found a duck jus latte that was intensely rich, tangy, sweet and spicy. There was some viscosity to go with the silkiness.  Loved the creativity with this one.

Our palate cleanser or pre-dessert was the the Mandarin Ice served in their cute little half rinds.  Totally refreshing and only lightly-sweet, the flavor was unmistakable Mandarin orange.  Really helped levelled things off from the full-flavoured and mostly spicy items we had so far.  Oh and these were sitting literally on ice that was set on the plate.

Our last item was the Budino featuring butterscotch pudding with chocolate ganache and cream.  Really enjoyed the silky and thick ganache which paired well with the sweet and buttery pudding.  The addition of black sesame really changed things up with nuttiness.  Loved that this was not very sweet, which was the nod to Asian desserts.  Overall, we thought 24 Suns was a fun and interesting meal.  Sure, you need to be good with the creative license they have over specific Chinese dishes in order to enjoy your meal.  I went in with an open mind and thought this was pretty solid.

The Good:

- A nice cache of courses

- Solid execution

- Excellent service

The Bad:

- If you are a stickler for what a dish should be, then you might not be the target audience

The Hungry Tiger Grill Kitchen

When Tendon Kohaku suddenly closed recently at Madison Centre, it was a bit surprising, but also not unexpected, especially during these turbulent economic times.  However, it didn't take long for The Hungry Tiger Grill Kitchen to take over.  If you've ever heard of their sister restaurant, The Hungry Duck on West 4th, then you will know what they are all about.  Think rice bowls, that are overflowing with grilled meats.  We stopped by recently to check it out.

Included with every meal is their Salad Bar.  It isn't a comprehensive salad bar by any means, but it has the usual shredded cabbage and roasted sesame dressing.  Moreover, we found some julienned green onions as well as pickled daikon and carrots.  You can help yourself to more if you wanted to.  Not bad if you wanted some veggies.

We got a small appie to start in the form of the Truffle Fries.  These actually showed up at the end of our meal when we were about 75% finished.  They need to work on their food expediting.  It came with an inordinate amount of mayo and ketchup.  Far too much for the amount of fries, which was wasteful.  The fries themselves were of the crispy shoestring variety.  There was enough seasoning to provide saltiness, but the truffle was quite muted.

Onto their Signature Bowls, my daughter had the Classic Chicken Don in the large size ($21.50).  All bowls included the aforementioned salad bar, miso soup, seaweed and dipping sauce.  They weren't skimping on the chicken was there was two layers atop the chewy rice.  I would've liked to see more charring on the skin, but there was smokiness nonetheless.  Meat wasn't exactly juicy, but it wasn't dry either.

Viv went for the large Chicken Vermicelli for $23.50.  This was a bit different than the don, not only because the chicken sat atop rice vermicelli, but it also came with fish sauce.  So the flavour profile was different as the standard dipping sauce was more vinegary and of course not briny.  It came with some greens and more pickled veg.

For myself, I had the large Grilled Pork Curry Bowl for $21.50.  As you can see in the picture above, the slices of pork were charred quite evenly.  Therefore, the smokiness was strong and the edges were crispy.  The meat itself was a bit dry, but in a good way.  It went well with the vinegary dip.  The ample amount of curry was quite mild and a bit sweet.  Just the right amount to go with the chewy rice.

My son had the biggest bowl in the large Chicken & Beef Short Ribs for $26.50.  This was loaded with the same amount of chicken, but adding in an equal amount of tender short ribs.  They were well-marinated and also nicely charred.  The addition of an onsen egg added a silky texture to the rice.  I recommend adding it to your bowl if it didn't include it already for another $2.50.

We ended up ordering some of their Hakkaido Soft Serve for a very reasonable price of $2.99.  These were fairly creamy for using Hokkaido milk and were just sweet enough.  Naturally, the best part was the strong milkiness of the soft serve.  Loved the crispy waffle cone.  Overall, we thought Hungry Tiger was decent and they didn't skimp with the meat.  I wouldn't put this on the top of my list, but if someone wanted to go, I wouldn't object.

The Good:
- Generous with the meat
- Generally impactful smokiness from the grilling
- Inexpensive Hokkaido soft-serve

The Bad:
- Fries came at the very end of our meal, they need to work that out
- Service was actually quite good (despite the online reviews), but the tablet at our table died, so we couldn't flag someone down electronically

Mala King Hot Pot

You just know when something gets super popular, there will be copycats.  Now, I'm not trying to say that in a derogatory manner.  In fact, as things evolve, newer versions of the original often become better and come up with new ways of doing things.  We've all seen that with bubble tea and its never-ending metamorphosis from what it was in the 90's.  You'd think that the market would be saturated (well, maybe to a degree), resulting in a collapse of sorts.  Well that hasn't happened.  Now take the DIY hot pot craze that started with Big Way locally.  There have been a slew of imitators but Big Way itself was a copycat of something that started in Australia.  We have the latest one in the GVRD in Malaking Hot Pot out in Surrey.  The name seems to mirror Malatown out in California.  So everything is a mish-mash of everything else.  Jackie and I checked out Malaking to see their version of this current craze.

Located in the former Pho Tam spot (so sad its gone), Malaking's setup is pretty typical of the genre.  Upon entering, there are bowls and tongs ready for you to pick your items.  There is a varied selection including seafood, meats, veggies, tofu products, meatballs and noodles.  Like I've said before, do not load up on meatballs, things with shells and heavy noodles.  You might have a nasty surprise in terms of cost otherwise.  But if you stick to lighter items, you can have hearty bowl for around $20.00.  You proceed to the counter and have your bowl weighed, then pick a broth (which is included).

In case you didn't only want to drink water with your hot pot, there is a selection of drinks available.  We sampled a few of them including Mango Slush, Avocado Slush, Piña Colada Slush and Thai Iced Tea.  You can choose your sweetness and add things like coconut jelly and pearls.  I really liked the piña colada as it was fruity and aromatic.  Nice tang on the mango and the avocado was smooth.  Of course the Thai iced tea   was sweet, but it was still balanced with enough tea flavour.  Right next to the counter is the Sauce Lab where you can create your own dip.  Pretty standard ingredients here.  They have self-service to go containers and paper bags underneath.

We sampled a nice selection of their broths including the Classic Ma La Tang.  Unlike some versions I've had at other places, this one was definitely spicy, yet not mind-blowing.  It had a nice viscosity where it wasn't thin.  There was some pleasant sweetness to compliment too.  I normally do not combine seafood with this, but I did this time and it was good.  The brininess of the razor clams, scallops and abalone paired well with the spicy broth.  The buttery snakefish was especially good with the spice.

Another delicious broth with aromatic creaminess along with some spice, the Laksa paired well with seafood (as expected).  The combination of the natural sweetness of the seafood and the broth made each spoonful delicious.  Soaking up the broth, the non-fried noodles were properly cooked where it had some chew left.  I think the fatty beef we had in this was good, but maybe some chicken would pair better with this broth.

The most impactful broth, other than the spicy mala, was the Japanese Black Garlic.  Resembling a rich tonkotsu ramen broth, this had the silkiness of collagen and fermented pungency of black garlic.  This was the best example of their 8-hour broths as it showed depth and thickness.  This an excellent compliment to the meats I chose (pork and beef) as well as mushrooms, veggies and quail's eggs.

One broth that we though needed something extra was the one-note Coconut Curry Broth.  It was definitely creamy with the goodness of coconut milk, but it did not have enough curry flavour.  We decided to combine the Mala with it and boom, it was so much more impactful.  Maybe next time we'll just ask for Coconut Mala mix.  We went for a predominantly seafood forward mix of items and although it added more sweetness to the broth, it all turned out to be quite muted.

The last broth we tried was the Tom Yum and that was another fantastic option.  It really did exhibit all the great flavours in Tom Yum including lemongrass, the tanginess of lime and some spice from the peppers.  The broth was pretty concentrated and held up to the excess moisture released by the veggies.  It helped flavour the noodles as well as the meat.  I would say this was right up there with the mala and black garlic.

Of course at the end of the meal, we were served the complimentary Soft-Serve Ice Cream in a waffle cone.  Like everywhere else, this was not the creamiest soft-serve, but definitely appreciated after hot pot.  Overall, Malaking Hot Pot fits in quite nicely into the DIY hot pot landscape in the GVRD.  I think their broths are some of the best (Coconut Curry withstanding) where they are impactful and do not dilute with the moisture of the components.

*All food and beverages were complimentary for this blog post*

The Good:

- Impactful broths that are concentrated enough to stand up to the moisture from the components

- Solid drinks

- Free parking (albeit very narrow spots)

The Bad:

- Coconut Curry broth needs more spice

- As mentioned, there is free parking, but those spots are incredibly tight

DaiLo

Oh I've been trying to get to DaiLo for quite some time.  We were in Toronto when it was in its infancy, but didn't get a chance to visit.   In fact, I missed it once again earlier in the year while we were in town.  However, this time, I made a reso so we would finally dine there!  Meaning "Big Brother" in Cantonese, DaiLo is headed by Chef Nick Liu.  His French influences on Asian cuisine are evident while still honouring the classic dishes he grew up on.  Seeing how many items we wanted to try on the menu, the best solution was having their Premium DaiLo's Choice tasting menu for $155.00 per person.

This started with an Amuse Bouche consisting of a Tom Yum Custard.  This little gem was only a taste of what was to come, but it was a loudspeaker of a beginning.  Silky and light, the egg custard was merely a blank canvas for the classic Tom Yum flavours including a hit of bright lemongrass and the tangy brininess of kaffir lime and fish sauce.  Some spiciness appeared from the chili oil and of course the usual bite from the galangal.  We found some smoked tomatoes, butter poached shrimp and pickled chilis which added more layers of impact.

Something a bit out of left field, we had the Spanish Tortilla with sesame crème fraîche, Kaviari Osetra Caviar and chives.  This was a beautiful rendition of a tortilla with tender pieces of potato sandwiched in between fluffy egg and onion.  There was a ever-so-slight nuttiness coming from the sesame crème fraîche while the salty brininess of the caviar provided that umaminess for the little bite.  Sure, this wasn't Asian, but it was beautifully executed.

One of my favourite bites of the meal was the Crispy Octopus Taco.  This was pretty ingenious with a thinly sliced piece of jicama as the "taco shell".  This totally kept things light and fresh.  That was necessary since the red braised pork belly was sinfully delicious.  The richness of the meat melded perfectly with the equally tender octopus.  Providing some spice and depth was the sambal aioli.  Once again, the bright crunch of the jicama really balanced things out.

Moving onto the next item, it could very well be an Amuse as well since it was a one-biter.  The Smoked Trout Pomelo Betel Leaf reminded me of the Thai Miang Kham which literally means many things in one bite.  However, this one had different components such as cold-smoked trout, lime leaf, lemongrass, shallot, nut crumble, puffed rice and coconut caramel dressing.  Lots of things going on here, but the textural crunch from the ingredients provided a nice mouth feel.  In addition, the lemongrass really came through while the smokiness came on a bit later.

In addition to the Tom Yum Custard, the Soft-Shell Crab Banh Xeo was another off-menu item.  This featured turmeric-battered crab sitting on a betel leaf and lettuce while complimented by pickled bean sprouts, chili oil and sambal vinegar.  This was inspired by their recent collaboration with Montreal's Street Monkeys.  I found that the soft shell crab was super light with a crispy and earthy batter.  That crunch was reminiscent of the crisp banh xeo texture.  In addition to this, the bean sprouts provided the veggie crunch as well as some acidity. 

We were served 2 items next in the Sweet & Sour Pork Hock as well as the Vietnamese Phaux Beef Carpaccio.  The 2 large nuggets of pork hock were nicely marbled giving it a meaty texture with intermittent butteriness.  Lots of crunch on the outside while the fat was full of umaminess.  The accompanying sweet & sour sauce had a light viscosity but still clung onto each cube beautifully.  It was appetizingly tangy with just enough sweetness.  As for the beef carpaccio, the meat was buttery soft while exhibiting rich beef flavour that wasn't as sharp as I would be expecting from a 90-day aged ribeye cap.  There was spot-on pho flavours including meaty saltiness accented by star anise and cloves with background sweetness.

Next, we were presented with something that was a bit odd at first.  I really didn't know what to think of it, but alas, it was described as the Bonito Potato Espuma.  Okay, so it was a potato foam of some sort and the best part, it had bonito in it.  Hence, it was briny and full of umami.  It was super light and airy while the exhibiting an appealing smokiness.  If that wasn't enough, we found a piece of anchovy on top with some chili crunch. That afforded even more briny saltiness and some spice.

We finished with the small plates with a pair of dumplings including the Pea Dumplings and Hakka Brown Wontons.  The pea puree filling was absolutely money with a creamy sweetness that was elevated by the rich brown butter.  The dumpling wrapper was super thin and delicate while retaining a chew.   As if that wasn't enough, there was some creamy bone marrow to make the duck bacon dashi nage extra rich and silky.  We found some chanterelles, pea shoots, peas and summer truffle in the mix to add woodsiness and some freshness.  As for the Wontons, they were filled with tender and juicy pork.  They sat in a mix of house XO sauce, toasted sesame oil and almond crumble.  The result was something quite nutty, briny and somewhat spicy.  Although I we enjoyed these, this was probably the most "ordinary" dish of the meal.

What we had next was genuinely awesome in the Singapore Chili Lobster.  It was truly a masterpiece consisting of a decently-sized lobster bathed in a nutty, spicy, briny and savoury sauce.  The addition of peanuts and lemongrass really gave this a SE Asian punch that was finger-licking good.  The lobster itself was live before cooking, hence, the meat was bouncy and sweet.  Sandwiched in between the pieces of lobster, we found fried noodles doused in the same sauce.  What a nice crunchy snack of sorts in between pieces of lobster.  On the side, we were served some Gai Lan with black garlic tofu dressing, oyster mushrooms chips and chili oil.  This was a fairly simple preparation but the steamed gai lan were still crunchy and were fully seasoned by the umaminess of the dressing and the nutty spiciness of the chili oil.

As a palate cleanser, we were served an Aloe Vera Sorbet with pickled ginger.  After the spicy lobster, it was very much welcomed as it cooled our tongue and got us ready for the Olive Oil Cake with a white chocolate crémeux, caramelized white chocolate and mango.  This was a nice fruity and light way to finish the meal.  The cake was ever-so-moist and the sweetness was just right.  Nice contrast of textures.  Overall, the tasting menu at DaiLo was really good and we weren't left wanting for any more food.  Nice array of dishes that were mostly unlike each other and kept things interesting.  Sure, DaiLo isn't the shiniest new thing in TO, but it is still a solid choice amongst all of the great places to dine at.

The Good:
- Good combination of elevated dishes and rustic ones
- Impactful flavours
- Wonderful service

The Bad:
- Some dishes were bordering on salty, if not salty

Jing Tan Grill House

I've had my eye on Jing Tan Grill House for quite some time.  Looking over their 3-tiered AYCE (All-You-Can-Eat) menu, it seemed like the Deluxe for $39.85 looked like the sweet spot.  You basically have everything you would want except for Wagyu Beef, Lobster, Lamb, Scallops and Oysters.  However, upon sitting down and eyeing the menu, I decided I needed to do the Supreme (with the aforementioned items) for $68.85.  They use charcoal grills here without the benefit of temperature control.  However, nothing cooks like charcoal as it really chars meats better than gas.  Ventilation is quite good, so it wasn't smoky at all in the restaurant.

In addition to the AYCE menu, there is a self-service bar that features Potato Salad, Wakame Salad, Tofu Skin Salad, Woodear Salad, Edamame, Fruit, Spring Rolls, Fried Dumplings, Shrimp Chips, Fries and Dungeness Crab.  I actually enjoyed all the salads.  Good flavour and texture.  I didn't try the potato salad though.  I was a little surprised to find crab there, but it was "okay".  Not live crab for sure, but it wasn't mushy though.  Was overcooked a touch.  Would've liked to see the fried food kept warm somehow.

So the Supreme menu has certain items that may make you rethink whether you want to spend more money (like me...).  The A5 Miyazaki Wagyu was absolutely buttery and delicious.  They did limit this to only 1 order per person.  We also found SRF Wagyu which was obviously less buttery, but still tender.  Yep, they also had whole Ribeye Steak that was limited to 1 per person.  This was only average as the meat was tender, but not marbled enough (despite having lots of fat around the edges.

We actually got another order of the SRF Wagyu (max 3 per person) along with the Premium Boneless Shortribs (also max 3 orders per person).  I thought these short ribs were quite fatty and if you like the fat, this is for you.  I tried eating multiple pieces with all the fat, but it was just too heavy.  We actually preferred the regular short ribs in the Deluxe menu.  On the bottom, there was some Wagyu Beef Tongue.  The trick to these was to cook them for a long time to help activate the fats (as in rendering it), so the meat would be tender enough to eat, rather than being chewy.

We had some other meats from all parts of the menu including Marinated Pork Shoulder, Pork Neck, Lamb Rack and Beef Short Ribs.  Really enjoyed the tender and flavourful pork, especially the sweet pineapple.  The pork neck was at its bouncy best with great marbling.  The lamb rack chops were pretty good, as long as you don't overcooked it.  Now for the aforementioned short ribs.  They were tender with the classic short rib chew.  Nice sweet and savoury marinade on them.

Disregard the Wagyu beef tongue in this picture as it was a repeat, but below, we had some Chicken Knees and New Orleans Chicken Wings.  I thought the chicken knees could've benefited from some better trimming as there was more than cartilage in each bite.  We had unchewable pieces of bone.  The wings were split and cooked quickly as a result.  The meat was juicy and tender from the savoury marinade.  The Unagi was fantastic, but was hard to cook on the grill as it stuck to it.  It was buttery and well-sauced.  The Abalone was the typical small ones you'd find at the supermarket.  With that being said, they were nice texturally having that dense squishy chewiness.  Added some Shrimp for good measure.  They were your typical frozen white shrimp.

As part of the Supreme menu, we could order the Lobster Tails (limit one per person).  These were par-cooked and needed to be finished on the grill.  We found them already fully done from the kitchen, so warming them up on the grill overcooked them.  Still nice to have some lobster!  The Oysters were also par-cooked, so it didn't take too long to finish them off on the grill.  They were buttery and briny with some sweetness.  A bit of sweetened soy on top added some saltiness and the garlic did its aromatic thing.

We got some shellfish in the form of White Wine Mussels, Clam Vermicelli and Scallops with Garlic. All of them were par-cooked as well and needed to be finished on the grill.  The problem with these is that they take up a lot of real estate on the grill and take some time to warm up.  Since there is a 2-hour limit, you might want to order these only once.  They were good though with fresh shellfish that were all the right textures.  Good flavour for all of them as they were topped with garlic and sauce.

As you can see, the amount of space on the grill is typical, so you need to cooked strategically.  Also, since it is charcoal, there was some hotspots and some coldspots.  Needed to move things around to get some char or to prevent burning.  When done right, the stuff is delicious.  We ended off with some complimentary Ice Cream which was more icy than creamy.  But whatever, it was included and helped cool our mouths from the barrage of hot food off the grill.  Overall, we quite enjoyed the experience at Jing Tan as the charcoal grill produced some great searing.  Also, the food quality was above average while the service was fantastic.  Would come back.

The Good:
- Above-average food quality
- Surprisingly good service
- Real charcoal grill

The Bad:
- Grill size is average, but some of the items take up a lot of room and slows the cooking down
- Limited parking spots