Edulis

Sitting at #2 on Canada's Best 100 restaurants for 2024, Edulis is also the recipient of a Michelin Star.  It is truly a destination restaurant tucked within a cozy bistro on Niagara in Toronto.  The Manager, Philip Shaw, welcomes and warmly guides you throughout the tasting menu that takes a journey though in-season seafood, vegetables and mushrooms.  Viv and I were fortunate enough to snag a reservation for this exquisite experience.

You must be quick when the resos are available and also need to prepay.  We had a 7:00pm reservation and began with the Snacks consisting of Edulis "Gilda Matrimonio" with Cantabrian anchovy, Valentine Radish with Liptauer cheese, Profiterole of Winter Parsnip & Black Truffle and Coppa di Testa of Mangalista Pork with Eggplant Sott'Olio.  A very nice introduction to the menu where we literally whet our appetites on the tangy and briny skewers with stuffed olives and anchovy.  Our favourite of the bunch was the profiteroles as the choux pastry was perfectly crispy with an airy centre.  The sweet parsnips were creamy and gave off foie mousse vibes.

 

As a supplement added at the table and not part of the original tasting menu, we had the Jamón Joselito for an extra $50.00.  This was well worth it though as each slice of ham was super buttery and richly salty, yet still a bit sweet as well.  On top, we found some Picos (Spanish bread sticks) that were a bit dense. This is the best ham in the world coming from a small company founded in 1868 and based in Guijuelo.  I would agree that this is one of the best I've had and would gladly have more!

Seemingly simple but complex in flavour, the Roscoff Onion Pannacotta was delightful with a rich creamy texture.   Mildly milky, the pannacotta served as a canvas for the sweet & earthy onions.   Although there was no curry to be found in this dish, there was a faint curry finish.   I loved the addition of crunch to the mix that added textural contrast.  Of course we couldn't forget about the generous dollop of Oscietra "Prestige" caviar.  That provides pops of salty brininess.

 

In between courses, we were served the Red Fife Bread with 84% fat cultured butter.  We went for the black truffle supplement and they went nuts with it on top of the butter.  The bread itself had a nice crunch with the crust while the inside had a heavy fermented flavour.  It was densely fluffy (if that makes sense).  We didn't go easy with the butter and that made all the difference in the world.  It was creamy and a bit gamy with lots of truffle woodsiness.    

One of our favourite courses was the Wild Red Sea Bream that was lightly cured and sandwiched in between sheets of kombu.   The slices of fish were supremely bright and naturally sweet with a kiss from the sea.  With Buddha hand citrus, we had all the acidity and fragrance the fish needed.  We had a bit of licorice finish from the fennel seed but also some slight brightness and bitterness from the cardoon.

Keeping the hits going, the Dungeness Crab was a beautiful dish where the main ingredient was allowed to shine.   Fluffy, briny and sweet, the crab sat in a sweet macadamia cream that featured crab butter.  It was full of umami and of course, crab flavour.  This made the flavour profile extremely crab-forward (which would've been the point).  We found some wild bears garlic finishing off the dish with delicate aromatics.

If crab and sea Bream wasn't a seafood treat already, we had the Just Shucked Mahone Bay Scallops next.  These were lightly poached in dashi that firmed them up but left the scallop raw.   They were buttery and naturally sweet.  This sat atop fermented aji verde which was bright, herbaceous and slightly spicy.  We had some Ontario ginger and pickled ramps which added bite and tang.

Moving onto something a bit different and more robust, we had the Smoked Eel "Schnitzel".  We found a piece of eel that was coated in breading and fried until golden brown.  It was crispy and aromatic while the short-finned eel itself was firm (like it should be) and lightly sweet.  Underneath, we found some white asparagus sitting in a stinging nettle vichyssoise with mustard seed mignonette and red wine reduction.  This was a fairly mild dish overall.

The next course featured diced BC Spot Prawn Crudo in saucy bomba rice with Mangalista sobrassada spread.  I thought the saucy rice was the best part of this dish as it sported concentrated flavours of prawn shells.  It was super briny, aromatic and pleasingly salty.   There was some meaty spiciness from the sobrasada that provided depth.   However, the delicate spot prawn was lost in all of this.  The good news was that the texture was as still there.

Our last course was the Dry-Aged Mangalista Pork with hedgehog mushrooms, cabbage sausage, roasted apple, celeriac & mushroom puree and cider sauce.  The pork was absolutely delicious where it was barely cooked through.  Each piece was juicy and succulent with natural sweetness.   The mushrooms help add some woodiness and the apple and cider sauce provided sweetness and slight tang.  really enjoyed the roasted pork rib on the side.  Such succulent and well-seasoned meat!  

Onto dessert, we ordered 2 of them including Niagara Baby Gold Peaches sitting in vanilla crème Anglais and raspberry sauce.  This was a simple dish, but was truly a refreshing way to cleanse the palate after all those fabulous courses.  But the real dessert was the Dark Chocolate Layer Cake with Soma kokoa kamili chocolate, Niagara apricot preserves and hazelnut praline. Oh this cake was so rich and chocolatey while being only purposefully sweet.  This was lighter than it appeared and was super fluffy.  Loved the crunch from the pralines on top.  As you can see, this tasting menu was a lot of thoughtful and well-prepared dishes.  Really great experience, especially with the personable service we received from Philip.  We can see why it is ranked so high on Canada's Top 100 Restaurants.

 

The Good:

- Outstanding service

- Good use of fresh Canadian ingredients

- Delicious

 

The Bad:

- Super hard to get a reservation

- With all the supplements and wine, it can get pretty expensive 

Tuc Craft Kitchen (Summer Menu Tasting 2017)

For all of the many great restaurants in Vancouver, there are only a few that I would use my valuable time for a return visit (or visits).  One of which is Tuc Craft Kitchen on the edge of Gastown.  This little spot gets pretty favourable reviews and has many loyal customers.  The reason why?  It's actually really simple - they produce delicious food.  Yes, it is true.  There are plenty of restaurants in town that focus far too much on style and social media hype and do not put enough effort into their menu.  At Tuc, their ever-changing offerings speak for themselves without the need of stupid gimmicks.  I was recently invited to their Summer menu launch and there was no need to ask twice!

To start things off, I tried their Turmeric Margherita with Hornitos reprosada tequila, Pierre Ferrand dry curacao, orange juice, turmeric and lime.  Loved the colour and bright flavours which was perfect for a warm day.  It was refreshing with just a hint of bitterness from the turmeric and plenty of zing from the citrus.  This was a dangerous beverage as I could've downed many of these easily. Our first small bite was the Vegan Rarebit based on the traditional Welsh dish.  This one sported rye bread topped with roasted veggies, caramelized onions and smoked onion sauce on top.  Despite the amount of wet ingredients, the bread was crunchy and stayed firm.  I found the roasted veggies fully cooked, but still retained a bite.  The sauce on top was slightly sweet with a touch of acidity. 

The best starter by far was their popular Crispy Bacon & Egg which is an interpretation of a Scotch egg (being relatively lighter without the use of sausage).  As evidenced in the picture, the egg was as perfect as one would hope for being a beautiful free-range orange and runny.  Of course some preparations would have it fully cooked, but c'mon, this was sexier and not rubbery.  On the outside, the bacon was meaty and lightly crispy as with the thin layer of tempura batter.  Another English-inspired little bite was the Boudin Noir featuring blood sausage wrapped in crispy pastry.   I found the flaky pastry to be very buttery while the boudin was soft and not especially heavy.  I found it rather airy with some richness and aromaticness.

Moving onto the tasting, we began with the Steelhead Ceviche & Chicharron with citrus cured Lois Lake steelhead atop puffed pork rinds and carrot ginger puree.  Exhibiting a balanced acidity and hits of lemon lime, the buttery steelhead's sweetness was able to come through.  The smooth puree added more sweetness as well as a sharp spiciness.  Aromatic and crispy, the chicharron exhibited an almost egg-like essence and aroma.  From light over to meaty, we were presented with the Lamb Dukkah on top of white bean hummus and Moroccan relish finished off with sesame & chickpea dust.  I found the lamb patty to be juicy and tender with an appealing bounce texture where the spices were apparent, in particular the cumin.  The spicy and tart relish featuring jalapeno and mint was a nice compliment to the lamb while the firm spicy carrots were tasty on their own.

Next up was the Seafood Tamarind Bisque featuring Salt Spring mussels, white prawn and snapper in a chili tamarind broth with Thai basil and local veggies.  The bisque was rather brothy and tart with the aromatics from shrimp paste and brininess from the seafood.  There was a background spiciness that didn't overwhelm the delicate seafood including the meaty shrimp, flaky fish and briny buttery mussels.  Although wilted, the veggies retained their texture and crunch which was a nice textural contrast.  Alternating between light and heavy, we went back to the decadent with the Crispy Pork Curado sporting a Gelderman Farms braised pork shank, roasted corn, charred tomatillo verde, celeriac slaw and local greens.  This was a site to behold with a beautifully crispy pork shank where the fat underneath was buttery and gelatinous.  Beyond that, the meat was tender, moist and also gelatinous.  The sweetness of caramelized roasted corn broke up the heaviness while the slightly tart and mildly spicy tomatillo added brightness as well as the crunchy slaw.

Since we were alternating back and forth between seafood and meat, it was fitting that our final dish featured both in the Surf & Turf.  This was an interesting interpretation with miso-cured tri-tip steak, tempura soft shell crab, confit sweet potato and miso foam.  Ever-so-lightly battered, the soft shell crab was crispy on the outside while still moist and soft on the inside.  It was sweet and of course exhibited the classic crab essence.  I thought the steak itself was tender bordering on chewy.  With that being said, it was cooked nicely medium-rare and wasn't hard to eat.  It was lightly salty from the miso, but not overly so.  For dessert, we were served the Chilled Chocolate Fondue with fernet-infused chocolate Anglaise, marshmallow and honeycomb toffee.  This was pretty sweet due to the combination of ingredients.  So if you have a sweet-tooth, this would definitely be up your alley.  The whole thing was smooth and chocolatey while the honeycomb added a sweet caramelized smoky crunch.  Like clockwork, the dishes from the Summer menu at Tuc were solid and executed properly.  I've never had a bad meal here and this was no exception.

*All food and beverages were complimentary*

The Good:
- Proteins cooked properly
- Seasoning on point
- Unpretentious

The Bad:
- Not much to complain about.  Only thing was the slightly chewy steak.

Au Pied de Cochon

Long before we even booked our hotel and transportation for our stay in Montreal, Costanza only had one thing on his mind (no, it wasn't that!).  He zeroed in on a bucket list item which was dinner at Au Pied de Cochon.  He's always been impressed with the no-holds-barred decadence offered up by Chef Martin Picard.  Featuring heavy Quecbecois cuisine focused on foie gras and pork, we were in for some serious eating as well as serious spending.  Whatever, we were on vacation - calories and money spent do not count right?  

We started strong with the Charcuterie Board for 4 (and reasonably-priced at $36.00).  It consisted of Lardons, Spicy Pork Pate, 2 types of Pork Sausage, Prosciutto, Cornichons and grilled bread.  This was a lot of food for an "appetizer" as the amount of meat was heavy.  I particularly liked the spicy pate as it was meaty with a hot sauce  taste being vinegary and peppery.  The pork sausages were also on point with a natural meatiness complimented by mild seasoning.  This was followed up by something a lot smaller in the Fried Squash Blossoms.  They were crunchy and light while accompanied by an aromatic tarragon mayo.

We also ended off strong with our last appie being the Foie Gras Poutine.  Wow, this was super rich and decadent.  The duck fat fries were full-flavoured (being nutty) and lightly crisp.  On top, there was a rich and silky sauce that was appealingly gamy with a finish of brandy.  The liberal chunks of foie were seared nicely which provided a textural contrast to the inherent butteriness.  I couldn't imagine eating this all-by-myself as we probably needed a defibrillator nearby.

Moving onto the mains, I went with the Hot Chicken since the Pied de Cochon was not available.  It sported 2 pieces of aggressively battered deboned thighs sandwiched in between fried bread.  The whole thing was drenched in a creamy and spicy gravy with a good amount of peas.  I found the chicken to be nicely brined where it was succulent and flavourful.  The batter was crunchy and peppery, yet some of the chicken skin wasn't rendered.  Viv ended up with the Tuna Burger that really didn't looked like one at all.  Rather than featuring a tuna steak, the patty was processed tuna that was breaded and fried.  Hence, it was super crunchy while the meat resembled beef in some ways.  It was sauced with a peanut satay and topped with avocado.  The bun was fried polenta cakes and to finish the whole thing off, we had 2 onion rings.  Again, this was heavy and she only ended up finishing half.

Elaine chose the Fig & Foie Gras Pizza with prosciutto as her main (which ended up to be the "lightest").  This was excellent featuring a firmly crunchy and thin crust.  We found that the flavours really worked here with the sweetness of the fig contrasting the saltiness of the cured meat in addition to the fatty foie.  Sure, the amount of foie was excessive (yes it was), but it was sure enjoyable.  Costanza had the most interestingly served item in the Duck in a Can.  Prepared in a tin can and opened table side, it consisted of a duck breast and a huge hunk of foie with roast garlic, buttered cabbage and thyme in a balsamic demi.  This was super rich and difficult to finish as the whole dish was oily and of course decadent.  The duck was beautifully medium-rare while the foie was fatty.  There was a nice depth which made things even more heavy.

For the kiddies, they got a couple orders of the Gnocchi & Bacon finished table side in a hollowed out wheel of Parmesan (along with flakes of Manchego).  Hence, the dish was cheesy and gamy, but the significant amount of basil (including the fresh basil in the dollop of ricotta), brightened things up.  The gnocchi itself were little ovals of tender pasta that still had an elasticity.  The final dish we had was the Sheppard's Pie and yes, your guessed it, it was super-heavy.  It featured tender chunks of beef that was meaty and nicely seasoned by the thick gravy that bordered on salty.  The whipped potato topping was thick, yet creamy and cheesy-like. At this point, we couldn't even think about dessert.  Personally, I couldn't get over the heaviness of the meal.  In many ways, it decreased my eating enjoyment.  I do realize that is the point of the restaurant, but it just isn't my cup of tea.

The Good:
- If you like foie...  they don't hold back
- Attentive service
- Creative dishes

The Bad:
- Too heavy for me, as it made things inedible after a few bites
- Creative yes, but didn't always work  

La Buche

So our second-to-last port-of-call before arriving in Montreal was Quebec City just up the St. Lawrence.  Well, our luck ran out on the run of good weather as we arrived to find pouring rain.  Suffice to say, the first half of our day was pretty dreary and I got completely soaked.  Fortunately, they turned off the faucet and I was able to enjoy the rest of the day where it became rather warm.  Lovely, now we had to pack away all of our rain gear...  Oh well, it was time to eat and in Old Quebec City, we ended up at La Buche.

I decided to have the Tortiere which was not traditional as a meat pie per se.  Rather, it was prepared in a modern fashion with the meat filling in a large ramekin topped by puff pastry.  Hence, it was more a stew more than a pie.  I found it meaty and rich with soft potato and tender chunks of beef.  The flavour profile was on the saltier side, but still appealing.  Viv had the Cassoulet made of sausage, ham, bacon and cheese curds coated with a béchamel sauce topped with spinach and 2 sunny side eggs.  I found this super rich and meaty despite not looking like a lot.  There was an overload of legit cheese curds which made it even heavier.

Elaine and my son both had the Bacon Poutine that featured fresh cut fries that were potatoey with only a light crispiness.  The gravy was really tasty with a purposeful amount of saltiness accented by the sweetness of cooked down onions.  Again, there was an overload of legit squeaky cheese curds.  The literal cherry on top was the thick sliced and meaty bacon.  Costanza had the Sugar Shack Combo that featured beans, crepe, hashbrowns, tortiere nugget, croquette and bacon.  This was a lot of food where the croquette really stood out being crunchy with a tasty meat centre while the bacon was once again very good.  The crepe was tender and sweet.

My daughter went for the children’s Shepherd’s Pie that sported smooth mashed potatoes topped with sweet corn niblets and shredded beef.  Despite the unappealing visuals, this was probably one of the tastiest items on the table.  It was flavourful from the salty beef and sweet corn.  In the end, we weren't sure if this was truly representative of Quebec cuisine as this was the only place we visited while in Quebec City.  Whatever the case, it did the job and several dishes were tasty.

The Good:
- Loved the rustic decor
- Decent eats
- Good service

The Bad:
- A bit pricey
- Salty

The MacKenzie Room

Generally, restaurant location can be one of the determining factors for prospective customers.  For instance, if they wanted to impress a guest or guests for whatever reason, they could choose a place right on the waterfront.  Alternatively, if they wanted to see and be seen, something along the lines of a Glowbal Group restaurant might be in order.  However, sometimes the location is irrelevant because it is really all about the food.  That might just be the case with The MacKenzie Room situated right across the street from Oppenheimer Park.  Well, Viv, Costanza, Elaine and myself were going to put it to the test on this latest food adventure.

Looking over the menu (which changes daily in accordance to what is local and fresh), it was pretty obvious we "wanted it all!" which meant for $56pp, we would be served everything.  The first 2 plates consisted of the Rockfish Crudo and the Showstopper Salad.  Nicely plated, the rockfish crudo was fresh, bright and sweet (with no fishiness).  I found the meat to be buttery while still firm.  Things were elevated with the zing and sweetness from the pickled grapes.  Piled high, the showstopper salad was dressed in a pistachio vinaigrette.  There was a background acidity that was a nice compliment to the nutty (but not salty) pistachios and creamy ricotta. Offering up a touch of bitterness, the greens were vibrant and fresh.  Completing the dish were tender lentils.

Whimsically presented, Veggies from the Garden sported bagna cauda, topped with crisp root vegetables, toasted foccacia dirt and gremolata.  First and foremost, the bagna cauda was creamy, a bit on the thicker side and mildly flavourful with hits of garlic and a mild saltiness.  This was a great compliment to the vibrant and sweet veggies where the crunch from the toasted foccacia was welcomed.  We didn't get much of the gremolata though.  Next up was their take on Ants on a Log. It consisted of leeks, peanut butter and crab apples  This was not as dessert-like as it appeared where the leeks were tender and mild while the sweetness of the apple was subtle.  The peanut butter was definitely nutty, but wasn't sweet nor was it salty either.  I loved the buttery honey mushrooms as they were prepared on point (they can be slimy if not).

The best dish of the meal hands-down was the Chicken of the Sea which was sea urchin pate with toasted ink brioche, crushed hazelnuts and seafood spice compressed pear.  Somewhat akin to monk fish liver, the uni pate was sweet, creamy and full of umaminess.  It went well with the crispy brioche (that tasted like any other brioche despite the black colour).  The nutty crunch from the hazelnuts added more texture, but really wasn't needed while the pears were an interesting mix of salty and sweet.  Next up was the Beef Heart Tartare wrapped in pickled cabbage leaves.  The medium-diced heart was mixed with quail egg, blueberries and horseradish.  On the side, the puffed tendon was very much like chicharones.  We weren't really fond of this dish and it wasn't because it was raw beef heart either.  Texturally, the heart was tender and buttery, but the flavours were a bit weak where it allowed the gaminess come through too strongly.

Moving onto some larger items, we had the Humbodt Squid with mussels, dill, parsnip husk, smashed parsnip heart, pickles and meyer lemon beurre blanc.  We found the cold-smoked squid to be tender without any sponginess.  It was lightly smoky while being aggressively salted.  The beurre blanc was silky and creamy with just the right amount of acidity.  There was a definite hit of cilantro with the cucumbers underneath.  Adding some crunch to the dish was the parsnip husks.  In theory, the Pork Belly & Sweetbreads should've been one of the highlights of the meal, but due to the fattiness of the belly, the dish never realized its potential.  Yes, we realize it was pork belly, but when there was little to no meat and just pure fat, it's not that appealing.  Too bad really since the combination of cauliflower pesto, smoked celeriac puree, apple and sweet clementine glaze provided a wealth of balanced flavours.  Sweetbreads were on the chewier side, yet sported a nice crispy exterior.

Continuing with more meat, we had the Lamb & Grits featuring braised neck and tongue with heirloom grits, charred broccoli, hop oil and cherry vinaigrette.  Others at the table weren't that fond of this dish, but I enjoyed it nonetheless because I love anything with lamb.  The grits were chunky, yet creamy while being well-seasoned.  I thought the lamb was tender, meaty and slightly sweet.  Ramping up the flavours was the spicy chili in the mole.  Our least favourite dish was the Corned Beef Brisket with stout brine emulsion, tomatillo relish, yam fritters, wilted chard and radish.  The problem was with the beef itself as it was dry and bland.  We did enjoy the mildly salty emulsion, but the relish was raw-tasting and didn't seem to go.  The spicy yam fritters were good as well as the just wilted enough chard.

For dessert, we were served a Chocolate Buttermilk Cake and a Dill & Cheesecake "Sponge". Accompanied by chili icing, maldon salt, bourbon cream and foie gras ice cream, the cake itself was moist and lightly sweet.  The best part was the creamy and decadent foie gras ice cream - so good!  As for the cheesecake, it was lightly sweet, smooth and definitely cheesy (reminded me of Japanese cheesecake).  On the side was a tasty grape-mezcal ice cream which was creamy, also not very sweet and just a touch boozy.  I thought the dill was quite restrained which was a good thing.  Adding a crunch was an almond crumble.  As you can clearly see, there are some real creativity and risks taken at the MacKenzie Room.  We enjoyed the surprises and although there were some misses, the hits made up for them.

The Good:
- Interesting dishes with nice surprises
- Different and fresh ingredients
- Casual and homey

The Bad:
- Daring to be different also means some misses
- Food comes out quick, better keep up