L'Express

Nearing 45 years old, L'Express is been a big part of the dining scene in Montreal.  It was originally the brainchild of Colette Brossoit and Pierre Villeneuve, who wanted to open an affordable spot for classic French fare late into the night.  Things have changed since then, but it is still reasonably-priced and open late.  It was recently awarded the Michelin Bib Gourmand designation that reflects its original mission as well as its current iteration.  Trying to fit in a visit at L'Express was fairly easy since they are open for lunch.

Compared to the bistros I've been to in France, L'Express really captures the decor, vibe and classic menu items.  We started with the Chicken Liver Pâté with pistachios, which was served in a fairly large portion.  It was rich and buttery smooth.  Nice sweetness and the aromatic hint of brandy made this really delicious.  Sure, it was probably full of cream and butter, but that is why it was so delicious!  I really didn't want to eat that much bread, but we dusted it off quickly.  Prior to that, we were delivered some Cornichons and Mustard.

Next, we had their classic Homemade Ravioli stuffed with veal, beef and pork.  The pasta itself was on point being thin but still having a nice chew to them.  In fact, the rebound from the pasta was some of the best I've had of late.  The filling was a bit crumbly, but tender with plenty of natural meat flavour.  To bring it all together, the reduced veal stock and mushroom sauce was silky and gelatinous.  It was full of umami and didn't need a lot of salt to be impactful.

Another must order here is the Veal Kidney in mustard sauce.  Okay, I'm a big offal fan and normally, nothing fazes me.  However, the kidneys in this dish were extra pungent and gamy.  Texturally, they were perfect being cooked through but still showing a bit of pink.  Hence, there was definite meatiness, but it ate tender and juicy.  The mustard sauce had a tangy sharpness complimented by the earthiness of mushrooms, gaminess of the kidneys and the richness of cream.   I would not recommend this to anyone who doesn't like gaminess.

We moved onto a few more dishes including the Quiche with leek, ham and emmenthal.  This was a pretty solid quiche where the egg was fluffy and light.  Inside, the balanced amount of ham provided not only some saltiness but a meaty chew.  Some brightness was provided by the leeks while the emmenthal added some cheesy sweetness.  The best part was the crust as it was light, flaky and buttery.  It really helped keep the quiche from being heavy and the texture was on point.

For the second meal in a row, we had the Hanger Steak.  This was cooked to somewhere between rare and medium-rare.  Hence, it was juicy, yet a bit chewier due to it being rare.  It was also very beefy, which was fine by us as it didn't need much of anything else as it was also well-salted.  However, the shallot butter was welcomed as it was aromatic and sweet.  The large pile of frites on the side were excellent being lightly crispy but plenty potatoey in the middle.  Nice creamy aioli on the side too.

For dessert, we had their famed Île Flottante with caramel.  This thing was huge but thankfully ate light due to the airy meringue "floating" on crème Anglaise.   I would say this was pretty sweet, with the combination of ingredients including the hard caramel dome.  Providing some sweet crunchiness, the almond brittle/granola was nutty and aromatic.  I felt this was good, but not really my thing.  It was impressive to look at and the crème Anglaise was good, but the entire thing was too sweet for me.  In general, L'Express does satisfy its core mission, providing competent food at reasonable prices.

The Good:

- Decent eats

- Reasonable prices

- Attentive service

The Bad:

- The kidneys were a bit too pungent for me

Shinya Shokudō

As many times I've been in the Seattle/Bellevue area, I do not recall ever doing something late night.  That would include activities in addition to eats.  This was about to change as Jackie and I were checking out some Japanese Izakaya at Shinya Shokudō.  Located right in the heart of Bellevue, it is open late until 1:00pm and offers up a full menu of share plates and also an array of drinks.  

About those drinks, we had a few of them including the Chillchee, Osmanthus Breeze and Shinya Choco Cloud.  Definitely on the sweeter end of the cocktail spectrum with these, but at the same time, they didn't skimp with the alcohol.  Hence, it still packed quite a wallop.  I loved the Chillchee the most as I love lychee and that definitely came through.  I thought the Shinya Choco Cloud was more of a boozy milkshake.

We a great selection of chicken parts (mostly offal) in the Tori Horumon Combo.  We got 2 each of the cartilage, heart, upper heart, gizzard and liver.  This was more about textures than anything else.  There was the crunch from the cartilage, chewy bounciness of the hearts and gizzards while we had the creaminess of the liver.  They were lightly grilled where we had some smokiness.  I would've liked a bit more char on everything but the liver.

To compliment our first set of grilled skewers, we added the Seafood Combo consisting 2 each of Shrimp, Salmon, Hokkaido Scallops and Eel.  I thought the shrimp were perfect being bouncy and still juicy.  Although not looking like it, the salmon was fairly moist.  Couldn't say the same about the scallops as they were overdone.  Eel was perfectly buttery and smoky.

To get a taste of some appies without ordering every one of them, we opted for the Small Dish Set.  This featured Chicken Karaage, Tamagoyaki, Salmon Sashimi, Takoyaki, Wakame Salad and Hotate.  Nothing particularly amiss with this as things were pretty standard and serviceable.  I did think the salmon and hotate were texturally on point and tasted fresh.

On that note, it wasn't a surprise that the Chirashi Don was good since it featured the same salmon and scallop sashimi.  It also added salmon toro to add a rich butteriness to the bowl.  A big dollop of ikura provided pops of briny sweetness.  That same ikura was great with sweet and creamy Hokkaido uni in the Temaki.  The Foie Gras Temaki was rich and buttery but nicely tempered by the chewy sushi rice.

Honestly, we weren't going to order the Spicy Vegan Ramen, but it came highly-recommended.  Well, I do have to say it was pretty darn hot!  Yah, it was spicy and kept my tongue busy for awhile.  Now I like spice, so it didn't bother me.  That was probably the best part because there was not meat for me.  LOL.  Noodles were al dente while bamboo shoots, corn and tofu were there to compliment.

Not that we didn't have enough food already, but we also had the Curry Katsu Omurice.  This was a fairly large dish with plenty of rice underneath a thin blanket of egg.  I would've liked it less cooked but it worked for this application as there was plenty of moisture from the earthy and sweet curry.  The pork cutlet on top was lean, but still tender with a crispy panko crust.

One of the best deals we found on the menu was the Sukiyaki for $20.00.  Served in a small hot pot on a butane burner, we found sliced beef roll with vegetables, mushrooms, tofu and shrimp.  We added udon for an extra charge.  Nothing complex about this dish, but it was a lot of food cooked in a rich soy dashi broth.  Beef was buttery tender while the shrimp had a meaty snap texture.

We had one more rice dish in the Unagi Don, that featured 2 large pieces of soft and buttery glazed unagi.  Rice was chewy and dry enough to withstand the moisture from the eel.  Again, for $21.00, this wasn't bad for so much unagi.  Overall, our experience at Shinya Shokudō was good considering the portions sizes and reasonable pricing.  I wouldn't classify it as a classic Izakaya as the menu trends more towards bigger dishes and Kushiyaki.  But it is good for what it is and is open until 1:00am to satisfy your late night cravings.

*All food and beverages were complimentary for this blog post*

The Good:

- Ample portions

- Inexpensive

- Decent eats

The Bad:

- Not really an Izakaya in the authentic sense, but it is good for what it is

- More aggressive char on some of the skewers

Osetra

One of the newest restaurants in Downtown Vancouver has opened up on Georgia Street at Homer.  Osetra (yes, the same name as the caviar) now occupies the former location of Bar Haifa.  It has a focus on coastal cuisine that features fresh seafood.  Now with a name like Osetra, you might have guessed they have a love for caviar as well.  That they do and we even got some randomly during our meal!

Before we got to the caviar, we had the Scallop Crudo.  This was doused in an apple and coconut nage.  This was plenty creamy and aromatic.  There was also an avocado vinaigrette which added even more richness as well as some acidity.  I wasn't completely sold on the serranos on top, but it did make things pop.  As for the chopped scallop, it was buttery soft, fresh and clean-tasting.  I enjoyed eating this with less of the sauce, since it was rather heavy.  Flavours were good though and the seasoned crisps were perfect vessels for the scallops.

For our Caviar appie, it featured a crispy buttermilk and chive waffle that was lightly sweet and a bit nutty.  We found some smoked crème fraîche and chives occupying 2 squares on the waffle while there was a toasted pepper and egg yolk gel settling in 2 of the other squares.  However, the most important ingredient was the dollops of caviar in the remaining squares.  I thought when everything was combined into one bite, there was a good balance.  If you are familiar, you'll notice that they re-imagined the typical condiments served with a tin of caviar, such as the egg yolk, crème fraîche and chives.  Quite clever really and in general it worked.  Possibly the only thing I would've changed was the waffle itself.  Something thinner would've helped highlight the brininess of the caviar more so.

It was suggested we order the Grilled Sourdough to accompany the Squid Plancha.  Great call on that as the nutty, smoky and crunchy sourdough mopped up that delicious sauce beautifully.  There was a nice dousing of single origin olive oil on the bread itself, where it ate well without sauce too.  The little bites of squid nestled in the n'duja & confit tomato sugo were tender and buttery.  I found the sugo to have a mild tomato flavour while exhibiting some spice.  Some preserved lemon provided the acidity and a balanced saltiness came from the manchego espuma.

Two of our vegetable sides came out next in the form of the Oyster Mushrooms in a rendang sauce and the Potato Pavé with pecorino and kimchi powder.  Really enjoyed the mushrooms as they were seared nicely.  The rendang was creamy and earthy with the usual coconut aromatics.  As for the pavé, it was not pan-fried.  Rather, it was deep fried which created a uniformly crunchy exterior that was also buttery and nutty.  Inside, it was still tender and revealed the multiple layers of potato.  I didn't notice the kimchi powder as much as I wanted, but it did provide a slight bite.

My favourite item of the night was the Dungeness Crab served in its own carapace (or head shell).  They de-shelled the whole crab and mixed it with a ginger & scallion emulsion.  I found the crab meat to be excellent being fluffy with a slight bounce.  It was naturally sweet and a bit briny with the emulsion complimenting rather than dominating.  We had some acidity in the form of lemon and the whole thing contained a good amount of crab.

Now we had crab, so the next would be Lobster right?  This was a half-lobster with diced meat that was mixed with a motoyaki mayo sauce and baked.  It was also topped with chives and ikura.  The result was tender morsels of sweet lobster that were lightly bathed in a mild-tasting sauce.  Underneath, we found some watercress gomae that added some freshness and texture.  The pops of brininess from the ikura was a nice break from the creamy sauce.

I thought the Carrots was probably the best veggie side dish we had.  They were aggressively charred which made them smoky and heightened the sweetness.  That honey mustard toffee on the bottom of the plate was richly sweet and buttery with a slight sharpness from the mustard.  Adding texture and nuttiness, there was puffed rice  was strewn across the plate.

Had to end the meal with caviar right?  So we had the Fior di Latte & Lemon Gelato topped with Osetra caviar and drizzled with single origin olive oil.  Creamy and sweet, the gelato benefited from olive oil with extra silkiness and of course the flavour of the oil.  Of course the caviar on top provided a "je ne sais" quality to the dessert that was only in the background.  Overall, the food we tried at Osetra was good.  There might've been a few things that could've been refined a bit more (such as the scallop crudo) and possibly the plating on the squid was a bit flat, but nothing outrageously deficient.  Atmosphere and decor fit the Downtown theme and pricing was okay, especially compared to Aquafarina across the street.

*All food was complimentary for this blog post*

The Good:

- Good Downtown vibes and atmosphere

- Food was generally well-prepared

- Fresh seafood

The Bad:

- Some dishes could use further refinement

June on Cambie

It was about time I made a return visit to June on Cambie.  After all, the first time was delicious and although not inexpensive, the prices seemed reasonable with all things considered.  The place certainly has style with a modern, yet elegant dining space complete with a prominent bar.  Let's not forget that Head Chef Connor Sperling, formerly Chef-de-Cuisine at Published, is at the helm in the kitchen.  Along with Elem, June has been nominated for Best New Restaurant by Air Canada.  They are 2 of the hottest restaurants in Vancouver right now and I can totally see major awards coming their way.

For this visit, I decided to order some favourites along with some new dishes I haven't tried.  Dining at June would not be complete without their signature Crab Dip served with spiced madeleines.  They truly pack this dip with fluffy Dungeness crab and really nothing else other than the house-made crème fraîche and chives on top.  This way, the crab really was the star of the show where it was sweet, a bit briny and of course creamy from the crème fraîche.  The spiced madeleines were a bit sweet (maybe too sweet?) and firm, which held onto the crab well.

Of course we couldn't ignore their cocktails, so we got the Guava Batida and Chamberyzette.  We wanted some light and fruity cocktails which we got with these two.  The guava batida was tropical-tasting, sweet, tangy and slightly milky (due to the yogurt).  The rum did come through, but in a mild manner.  As for the chamberyzette, the sour strawberry cordial was at the forefront, which made it sweet and fruity.  Some vermouth hints in the form of earthiness was in the background.

Another favourite of mine is the Seared Hokkaido Scallops.  Served on the half shell, these perfectly seared scallops exhibited an aggressive caramelization.  Hence, it only helped concentrate the briny sweetness of the scallops.  Showing the precision in its execution, the scallops were still buttery soft with a rare centre.  On top, we found some fennel marmalade and chives.  Just a extra bit of sweetness (could be a problem for some who don't like it too sweet) with a side of brightness.  These sat in a butter sauce with lemon and verjus which provided a nutty loving hug with acidity.  So utterly delicious!

Continuing on with the staples at June, we had the gigantic Frogs Legs.  These massive things were juicy and tender.  On the outside, they were glazed with espellette and B.C. honey which offered up both sweetness, smokiness and the faint hint of spice.  If you can imagine, this was quite the flavour bomb since all of the above qualities were rather loud.  To bring balance to the boldness, we found a lime mignonette on the side.  This afforded a bright acidity which kept things from being too heavy.

Yep, the next dish was also another one I've had before in the Bluefin Tuna.  Encrusted with a cracked peppercorn blend, the tuna was lightly roasted on charcoal.  So you would think that it would be overly smoky and pepper right?  Well actually no.  Rather, the bluefin was still able to shine and be its bright and clean buttery self.  Now if that wouldn't overwhelm the fish, you'd think that the red pepper escabeche would be the culprit...  Once again, nope.  We definitely got the sweet and sour notes, yet the bluefin could still stand on its own.

Now onto a dish I've yet to try - the Paris Tartare.  This consisted of Haida Gwaii albacore tuna with a lemon vinaigrette and basil mayo.  This was a colourful and visually-appealing dish that had some French, but also Westcoast influences.  Now it wasn't Asian influence such as employing soy, sesame oil and the sort.  Rather, it was quite classic with an acidic vinaigrette balanced off with some mayo.  Hence, this was not a flavour bomb.  It was much more subtle and it let the beautiful fish do the heavy-lifting.  The soft-poached quail's eggs added some custardy elements and the tomatoes and radicchio afforded some brightness, bitterness and tang.  We had some crispy brioche toasts on the side.

Another dish I've yet to try was the Truffle Eggs.  These were simply soft-poached free-range eggs with a generous helping of truffle mayo on top.  At first, I was a bit concerned it would be overpowering but alas, it was quite restrained.  It was creamy with only a purposeful amount of truffle.  Providing some texture, we found nutty brown butter crumb on top with a bit of chives.  Back to the usual, we had the June Brioche with cultured butter and sea salt.  With a slightly crispy exterior and a fluffy interior, the warm bread accepted the creamy butter meltingly.  Such buttery goodness...

Second round of cocktails included the Genmaicha Clover Club and Verdita Colada.  Both of these had a bit of spice, which was welcomed.  The clover club had fruitiness in the form of lemon and raspberry while sweetness from the honey.  Since the base was gin, it wasn't overly strong, so the horseradish did come in at the end.  For the verdita colada, it had a kick from the chili oil and beautiful smokiness from the mezcal.  This was balanced off by the sour pineapple and the herbaceousness of the chartreuse.  We loved this cocktail and it was our favourite.

Finally getting some veggies into the meal, we had the Beet & Endive.  This was pretty simple where it allowed the main ingredients to shine.  The golden and red beets were tender, sweet and earthy.  The fresh crunch of the endives with just a touch of bitterness was the perfect foil for the beets.  Things were dressed in a sherry and walnut vinaigrette.  Next, we had a daily feature in the Burrata with roasted squash and sunflower seeds atop a miso pumpkin seed puree.  First and foremost, the burrata was fresh as evidenced by the creamy centre and delicate casing.  Just some EVOO and sea salt was all it needed.  The squash was perfectly-textured being firm while soft in the middle.  It was intensely sweet.  That miso paste was full of umami and nuttiness.  Really enjoyed that with the squash.

Here is the first dish that was just "ok".  The Halibut Beurre Blanc was a pretty dish, but the fish itself was a bit stiff.  Nice sear on the outside which created a crust and it was also well-seasoned.  But the flakes of fish were lacking moisture.  Loved the beurre blanc as it was almost creamy with a nice amount of acidity.  With the addition of Sauternes, we had some sweetness too.  The greens and herbs surround the fish really helped brighten the dish.

Before we ordered all this food, we were deciding which steak we should get.  Originally, it was the Bavette since it would be smaller, but we did the YOLO thing and ordered the 12oz Aged Ribeye.  Turned out to be a great idea as the steak was beautifully prepared and super tender.  Being aged 40 days, it was in the sweet spot that it became softer and more nutty without tasting like blue cheese (beyond 45 days).  This sat in a rich brandy sauce.

On the side, it was served with beef fat Fries accompanied by moutarde extraordinaire and mayo maison (essentially fancy mustard and aioli).  These fries were fantastic being crunchy, hot and full of nutty beef fat goodness.  Tasted like it was basted with butter.  To balance this sinful treat, we had the Salade Maison featuring butter and romaine lettuce in a dijon vinaigrette.  Bright, fresh and crunchy while sauced in a tangy and sweet dressing, this was a good interlude between bites of steak.

Before we got to dessert, we were served some Nitro Espressos which were full of coffee flavour but it wasn't bitter nor too strong.  Furthermore, they were mildly strong and sweet, perfect to go with their signature dessert - Chocolate.  This featured a milk chocolate mouse atop a hazelnut praline base.  Good textural contrast and also delicious and creamy chocolate mousse.  A Frangelico crème anglaise was served tableside which amped the hazelnut flavour even more so.  As if we needed anymore creaminess, there was so chantilly on the side (I still ate it happily...).

We ended up trying both of their available Soft-Serve du Jour.  The first was a Cream Cheese Soft-Serve with plum & peach crumble.  Nice temperature contrast between the warm crumble and cold soft-serve.  It was definitely cheesy and creamy while the crumble had nice tartness and crunch.  The other one we had was the Strawberry Soft-Serve, which was more like a sherbert being creamy but having sorbet vibes.  It was tangy and mildly sweet.  Very refreshing.  In the end, this was another delicious visit to June on Cambie.  Considering the level of service and food quality, I find the prices to be reasonable.  Whether they win the Best New Restaurant by Air Canada or not, I feel great things are coming their way real soon!

The Good:

- Well-executed dishes

- Cool vibes

- Attentive service

The Bad:

- Smaller tables are tightly packed

- Possibly some items are a bit too sweet