Elem

Here is another double-post on Elem, where it was my 4th and 5th visits respectively.  I bet you can tell I really enjoy the place and am willing to spend my hard-earned money on their delicious and carefully-crafted eats.  I truly believe the team of Vish, Winnie, Hasib and all the great people in the kitchen and front-of-the-house are doing all the right things to put Elem in the running for both a Michelin-Star and to be included in Canada's Top 100 restaurants.  So without further ado, I will talk about all the plates I had in both meals!

Of course I start off every meal at Elem with their wonderful Bread & Butter featuring their rye Parker rolls.  For the first meal, the butter was citrus fennel pollen.  The second was a koji butter with chives.  As usual, the warm rolls were slightly crispy on the outside while soft and fluffy on the inside.  They were lightly sweet while the butter added an aromatic creaminess.  If I had to choose, the koji butter really did it for me since it was lightly tangy and plenty bright from the chives.

Winnie and I had a convo last time I was here where we expressed our common love for corn.  Hence, she surprised me with a Elote cocktail.  It consisted of grilled corn tequila reposado, corn-honey-cilantro-cumin syrup, chipotle chili, lactose-free cream, fresh lime and shaved cojita cheese.  This was rather creamy and sweet with a hint of spice and earthiness.  The cheese on top really added depth and an extra layer of savouriness.  I want this again!  Staying with the classics, we also had the Jakarta, which is the most fruity and lightest of all the cocktails on the menu.

Onto what I consider their signature dish - the Dungeness Crab Toast.  This house made milk bread was toasted and then set in a lemongrass ginger crab foam.  As you can see, they also are not shy about laying on the fluffy dungeness crab on top of the toast.  Every component in this dish served a purpose and they worked harmoniously together.  Aromatic and full of sweet brininess, the foam helped bring out even more of the natural crab flavour.  The toast had a nice sturdiness to it, so it did not get soggy from the foam.  The crispiness was a nice textural contrast.

It all started with the duck fried rice, then transitioned to the Shrimp Fried Rice and finally to the BBQ Chicken Fried Rice.  They all shared similar traits such as the chewy and nutty rice that was the beneficiary of high heat and aromatic oils.  They all came with the addictive chili crunch that added both texture and spice to the dish.  With the herbs, it helped the rice gain some brightness and balance out the heaviness of the oil.  With the shrimp, they were meaty with a sweet snap while the chicken was nicely seared from the stir-fry.  On top of the chicken fried rice, we found a fried egg that added a custardy texture to the rice.

So for our most recent visit, we had two cocktails to start including the Salsa Verde and the Mexican Coca-Cola.  With a beautiful spiciness balanced off by sweetness, the Salsa Verde benefits from the pear cordial and lime.  These offer up brightness to counter the strength of the mezcal and tequila.  As for the Mexican Coca-Cola, don't let the name fool you into thinking this was so weak drink.  Rather, it had some real bite from the mezcal and tequila.  Some Coca Cola syrup provided the background essence of the drink.

A dish that is not currently offered, but has stuck in my mind was the Mackeral with pickled ramps cream sauce.  This was ever-so-simple with super-fresh mackeral (like flown in the day of) that was salted and seared until the skin was super crispy.  It remained rare and was perfectly deboned.  Each piece had the freshness of the sea with natural sweetness accented by sake. The sauce was mild and added some tanginess.

Still on the menu, the Buckwheat Spaghetti was a robust and hearty dish.  I felt the texture of the spaghetti was perfectly al dente while being firmer than its wheat flour version.  The generous amount of duck ragu was meaty with equal parts umami and sweetness.  This was accented by the kombu, pickled ramps and sake where there was acidity and added sweetness from the sake.  As mentioned, this was pretty hearty, which would be paired well with a refreshing beverage.

On that note, two of the more refreshing cocktails are the Seoul and Tokyo.  Both from the Lightness part of the cocktail menu, they helped cut the heaviness of the pasta.  For the Seoul, it had some kick due to the gochujang, but also sweetness from the grapefruit soda.  In typical Korean fashion, we found some sesame oil for that unmistakable aroma.  As for the Tokyo, it had all the colour from the matcha, but in reality, the banana came through with sweet aroma.  But then some curious saltiness comes through too.  A soft ice cream mochi on the side was great too.

We had two off-menu items that were similar, yet remarkable different as well.  The first was the Argentinian Prawn Risotto with mushroom XO sauce and scallion oil.  Absolutely adored this dish as the rice itself was al dente, bordering on hard, but wasn't.  This was a flavour bomb with sweet and briny hits of Argentinian prawn shells cooked down into the broth.  The XO sauce provided an umami tang that helped bring the dish alive.  As for the other risotto, it was a Snow Crab Risotto with New Brunswick Acadian Caviar and scallion oil.  This was much more subtle with the sweet saltiness of crab.  The caviar wasn't just there for decadence's sake.  Rather, the pops of briny saltiness only provided another layer of flavour.  The generous amount of snow crab leg meat was buttery and soft while naturally sweet.

At first, I was thinking that the Octopus was a bit too chewy for my liking.  But as I ate more of the dish, I started to understand it more.  Sure, it was not exactly super soft, but that wasn't the point of the dish.  Instead, the extra chewing involved allowed the flavours to be more pronounced.  The red zhoug afforded heat, sweetness and some smokiness to the dish.  The topping of tomato chili salsa added brightness and freshness.  The side of cuttlefish ink aioli helped cool things down nicely.

We ended up with a few vegetable dishes off the menu including the Roasted Brussels Sprouts and the Cauliflower.  Really enjoyed the sprouts as they were cooked just enough so that they retained some crunch.  There was also some lightly blanched leaves on top for colour and a different texture.  What really made this dish was the sultana raisins as they added an intense sweetness.  That was further aided by the pear agrodolce with more sweetness and balanced off with tanginess.  As for the cauliflower, it was beautifully plated with fasoulia, crispy chickpeas and saffron tahini.  Nutty and seasoned, the cauliflower was still firm while cooked through.  It sat atop a bean stew that had some slight sweetness while the saffron tahini was aromatic and nutty.  The crunch from the chickpeas was an appealing addition.

Onto some heavier meat dishes, we had the Korean Braised Shortrib with gochujang glaze, bak choy condiment and shaved pear.  The large pieces of deboned shortrib were fall apart tender and moist.  I felt that the gochujang was evident with mild spice and tanginess but the dish could've used a bit more salt.  Loved the subtle addition of shaved Asian pear as it provided freshness and the classic mild floral sweetness.

We ended off the savoury dishes with the AAA Bone-in Striploin with some side condiments.  The steak itself was prepared a perfect medium-rare where it was well-rested.  Hence, the meat was juicy while not exhibiting any moisture on the plate.  The steak itself was well-charred and salted.  However, we found some tangy and salty castelvetrano salsa verde, a silky and earthy rosemary jus and pickled mushrooms.  The mushrooms acted as a palate cleanser in between bites of the steak.

 

Onto the sweets, we had a playful creation in the Popcorn consisting of cheddar cake, caramel sauce, corn mousse & foam and aged cheddar.  So yes, this was savoury and sweet as well as cheesy.  The popcorn aroma did come through while the cheese made this dessert in my opinion.  The added salt and nuttiness created loads of umami.  Something familiar to me, the Sticky Toffee Pudding was like a warm hug with rich winter spices., this was not super sweet like the classic rendition, rather it offered depth and smokiness.  The peppercorn and white chocolate crema provided the necessary moisture to soften up the slightly firm pudding.

 

One of the best desserts I've had at Elem was the Koji Banana Bread with toasted meringue, pear sorbet and toasted hazelnuts.  Completely caramelized and crispy, the outside of the banana bread was smoky and sweet.  Beyond that, the bread was soft and moist with the sweet aroma of ripe bananas.  Good choice of the pear sorbet as it complimented the dish without taking over.  We also had the Nemesis Cake with miso vanilla ice cream, tarragon wafer and pine nuts.  This flourless cake was creamy and ganache-like.  Modestly sweet, the dark chocolate vibes came through with a bit of bitterness.  Nice crunch from the wafer and the fermented saltiness of the ice cream acted like flakes of salt with the cake.  Yes, this basically covers most of the menu and naturally, some dishes stand out more than others.  That goes for any menu especially when we are dealing with subjective tastes.  As a whole, the food delivers and there is a concentrated effort going on to be one of the best in the country.  As I've said, they are well on the road to accomplish that.

 

The Good:

- Vish knows when to be bold and when to dial it back when it comes the flavours

- Winnie dares to be a mad scientist with her cocktails

- Hasib and the restaurant team make every experience memorable

 

The Bad:

- As with any sharing plate restaurant, prices can get up there if you aren't careful, I'm not careful...

 

Elem

The fine dining scene in Vancouver is ever-changing and slowly catching up to the rest of the world.  You can't really compare with places that have lower operating costs, so in Vancouver, it is always a challenge to invest so much in decor.  One of the newest spots, Elem on Main, takes you to New York with its modern, yet simple design.  Top Chef alum Chef Vish Mayekar is at the helm and offers up a global menu that incorporates sustainability.  My visit here was only 5 days into their full operations, so keep that in mind when reading this blog post.

Now food is one thing, but their cocktail program run by Beverage Director Winnie Sun receives equal billing at Elem with a beautiful and spacious bar that conveniently faces the kitchen from the other side of the restaurant.  There are 4 distinct sections to the restaurant that represent the elements including Earth, Water, Air and Fire.  They have a commitment to no-waste as all the trimmings go into the mother stock and any other scraps goes into fermentation. Even the copper that frames the kitchen will change organically over time.  

We began out meal with some Prosecco with elderflower, peppercorn and cardamom.  This was served with a side of Winnie's Szechuan Peanuts.  As for our first round of cocktails, we had the Best Tacos Pepe and Butternut Squash first.  Topped with candy lego bricks, the BTP was smooth with an almost vanilla finish (from the evaporated & condensed milk).  As for the second cocktail, it was a take on an old-fashioned with smokiness and the mysterious woodsiness of the shiitake mushrooms.

To start our dinner, we had the Bread & Butter featuring brioche Parker rolls with truffle honey butter.  Elevating this even further was the addition of fresh shaved black truffles.  These buns were soft and fluffy but still had a bit of density.  The truffle was impactful while not being overwhelming.  We went for 2 more cocktails during this time in the Mango Rasmalai and Mumbai Biryani.  Wow, that mango rasmalai was so delicious.  I could've easily downed this in gulp.  By virtue of it being gin-based, it was a bit light to begin with and with the addition of fresh mango, cardamom and clarified saffron milk, it went down real easy.  Some saffron white chocolate paint on the side provided some sweet aromatics.  As for the Mumbai biryani, this really did drink like a meal.  Furthermore, the spiced tequila made this a stronger drink.  This consisted of lacto-fermented grape, kewra, rosewater, salted ghee-caramel foam and fried onion.  If you can imagine, this made for a spice-laced concoction that had some real savoury elements.

Taking elements of Indian cuisine with the classic Behl Puri, we find the Yellowfin Tuna Behl served with semolina crackers.  This really did have all of the elements of the dish with cilantro mint chutney, puffed rice, onions and tomato.  However with the addition of tuna and avocado, it made the whole thing more hearty and gave it some ceviche vibes.  In fact, the whole thing was possibly too acidic for some (okay for me personally), which totally made for a bright and ceviche-type experience, especially with the light and crispy crackers.

Loaded with fluffy crab on top, the Dungeness Crab Toast was a real hit.  It sat in a lemongrass ginger foam that had not only SE Asian aromatics, the essence of crab shells was prominent.  The well-toasted milk bread had enough integrity to stand up to the sauce, yet at the same time, not be too firm that it would overwhelm the delicate texture of the crab meat.  About that crab, it was naturally sweet and barely cooked through.  The contrast in textures between the crab and toast was perfect.

One of our favourite dishes was the Grilled Lamb Skewers in a medjool date glaze.  The caramelization and char were evident visually and totally confirmed tastewise.  The flavours were super intense with a nutty sweetness.  The lamb belly was super fatty and totally melted in our mouths.  As gamy as lamb can be, especially with so much fat, this was quite mild due to the perfect char and seasoning. The sweetness was balanced off well by the ginger labneh underneath and the pickles on top.  The crunch from the buckwheat added the necessary texture as well.

The hits kept coming with the beautifully-plated Squash Caramelle.  These precious little pasta pockets shaped like candy wrappers featured the ideal texture for freshly-made pasta.  It was firm and chewy while still giving way to the soft and sweet squash filling.  Love the fall flavours including the background nutmeg.  The miso buerre blanc was rich and smooth while not being too heavy.  It had the classic fermented saltiness of miso complimented by the sweetness of the squash.  We also found chanterelles and pumpkin seeds finishing off the dish.

The other pasta on the menu was equally fantastic in the Rabbit and Chestnut Cavatelli.  First and foremost, the pasta was next level (just like the previous dish) where it had a firm resistance upon first chew, but then transitioned to a pleasant denseness inside.  The ridges on the pasta held the white sauce well and we could taste the sweetness of the rabbit.  Normally, the lean meat can be dry, but it wasn't the case here.  So tender and well-incorporated into the sauce.  Little nuggets of chestnut and thin slices of matsutake mushrooms added texture and mushroominess to the dish.  To top it off, aged toma added nuttiness and tang to the pasta.

As if the pastas weren't blowing us away already, but the Honey Mussels Curry was so on point.  First of all, the use of honey mussels was already a bonus as they are some of the most plump mussels available.  Unlike Kiwi mussels, honey mussels are delicate and more flavourful.  This was further enhanced by the tomato-based curry which was spiked by the tanginess of tamarind and sweetness from all the cooked down onions.  The addition of crispy rice balls provided not only texture, it also helped soak up the delicious curry.

Probably the best dish we had all night was the Duck Fried Rice.  The aroma and umaminess emanating from this dish was intoxicating.  We had the duck fat really coming through with a luxurious silkiness while the caramelization of the rice added to the nuttiness already present.  Some chili crunch added texture and spice while the house-made kimchi provided acidity and another layer of spice.  To top it off literally and figuratively, we found fresh mint and cilantro to give the dish some brightness. 

We finally made it to a vegetable dish in the Barbecued Carrots with mandarin kosho, smoked yogurt and bubu arare.  I found this dish to be just alright.  The carrots were a bit too firm but not hard.  There was a natural sweetness to them which was contrasted by the sourness of the kosho.  Underneath, the smoked yogurt was pleasant and not overwhelming.  The addition of rice crackers provided that crunch that was needed in the dish.

Onto more cocktails, we had Chef's Negroni and Duck Fried Rice.  Consisting of dark chocolate gin, spent mulberry campari, Stoney Paradise tomato vine vermouth and applewood + cedar smoke, this was rich and smoky.  Definitely a full-bodied drink with lots of strong flavours.  As for the duck fried rice, it was mirroring the menu dish in some ways.  With duck fat washed gin, we could definitely get the essence of duck, while the kimchi maraschino provided a tangy sweet spice. The rice milk gave a lightly milky nuttiness and the thyme provided some earthiness.   Something a bit more refreshing, the Tokyo featured matcha vodka, banana, shiro shoyu, tonic water and a side of yuzu mochi.  The brightness of the tonic water hit me first then the bitterness of the matcha vodka next.  Mid drink, I got the essence of real banana while the shiro shoyu came at the end in the mildest manner.

Onto the showstopper main dish in the Loong Kong Chicken with a maple espresso glaze and farm side vegetables.  This free-range chicken with everything attached (including the foot) was lean and appealingly chewy.  It was still moist and tender though with properly rendered skin.  The chicken was well-seasoned with the glaze being sweet and savoury with a hint of bitterness.  The buttery sunchoke puree added some moisture and an extra layer of nuttiness to the dish.  The side of veggies were bordering on salty, but was just right adding more flavour to the dish.

So dining with Mijune means we have to get all of the desserts...  Yes we did...  The first was the Banana Ice Cream cradled in a mochi donut with buckwheat granola and toffee sauce.  Loved the creaminess of the ice cream and the aromatics of real banana.  The donut was perfect with a crunchy exterior and a chewy interior.  Next, the Masala Chai Kulfi was presented as a popsicle.  I definitely got the earthy spices combined with the black tea as well as the sweetness.  This was accented by the some crunchy and sweet pistachio brittle as well as the creamy and light brioche Chantilly.  Some spruce oil finished the dish adding a bright woodiness.

Our last 2 desserts consisted of the Japanese Pudding and the Sweet Potato Churro.  Oh that pudding was so perfect.  Super smooth and creamy with a consistent texture.  It was lightly sweet with burnt caramel notes.  A little addition of Vecchio Amaro tableside provided some bitter-sweetness.  Lastly, the churro was crispy and intensely sweet.  It was topped with some sticky quince marmalade and cereal crumb.  The miso vanilla ice cream afforded some rich salty sweetness.

We ended off with one more cocktail in the Build Your Own Chai featuring Elem chai liqueur and tea biscuit milk.  We could adjust the mix to our own preference and that we did with more milk!  This was aromatic and creamy with a touch of booziness.  Nice finish to our dinner.  In fact, we actually ended off the meal with some Dark Chocolates.  Oh and what a meal it was!  The food was so on point and especially impressive since this was only the 5th day of operation!   Such a beautiful room (or rooms) with Chef Vish Mayekar's finely crafted global cuisine complimented by inventive cocktails by Winnie Sun.  I'm planning to come back.  In fact, I've got reservations already!

*All food and beverages were complimentary for this blog post*

The Good:

- Genuinely delicious food

- Stunning room

- Such creative cocktails

The Bad:

- Cocktails and food are competing against each other sometimes

Sunday Brunch at Coast Langley City Convention Centre

Yes, AYCE or buffets are making a comeback in the Lower Mainland!  If you have paid attention, there are more options now than we have had for the last 10 years.  I've already gone over the reasons in previous posts, so I'm not going to repeat it here.  However, I will say that despite the prevalence of AYCE options, there are not many affordable and good Sunday Brunch buffets in the GVRD.  Well, I think we might have a winner in the Coast Langley City Convention Centre (or CLC).  They turn their ballroom into a huge Sunday Brunch Buffet costing $44.95 for adults and $21.95 for kids (up to 12 years old). We were invited to try the Easter Brunch (which was a bit more for $49.95) to see for ourselves if this buffet was worth the money.  

The one thing that struck me right away was the many different food stations.  The first was the Sushi where there was a selection of maki as well as freshly torched aburi nigiri.  For a buffet (that isn't an Asian one), the sushi was more than respectable.  Rice was chewy and not overdone while the ingredients were fresh.  There were more cooked versions of sushi, but I'm sure they were trying to satisfy all tastes.

They also had the basic Breakfast Items but with a twist.  For instance, the scrambled eggs were folded with cottage cheese and chives.  Even their sausages were a cut above the usual with large country pork and lean turkey.  There was thick strips of double-smoked bacon and herb-spiced hash browns.  Nearby the breaky things, there was chilled whole shrimp, prawn cocktail and mussels.

Moving onto the hot Main Dishes, we had a selection that included Salmon & Cod Thermidor, Roasted Turkey & Stuffing, Beef Marsala, Westcoast Paella, Mascarpone-Whipped Potatoes and Roasted Brussels Sprouts and Root Vegetables.  Really enjoyed the fish as it was not overdone (impressive for a buffet) and was sitting in an aromatic lobster cream sauce.  The turkey was moist and came with all the fixins'.  Wasn't a fan of the paella as the rice was dry and bland.  The seafood was excellent though.  Beef marsala was pretty tasty with rich flavours and tender beef.

Over at the Carvery, we found perfectly medium-rare Angus Roast Beef, Honey Ham, Chicken & Waffles, Mini-Pancakes and French Toast.  Loved the beef as it was exactly how I like it being tender and still juicy.  Buttermilk fried chicken was certainly crunchy and still moist inside.  Made-to-order waffles were crispy and light.  Those little pancakes were easy to eat and great for kiddies.

One of the best features of this buffet has to be their Eggs Benedict Station.  Yes, they make it to order and there are 4 options including Cajun shrimp, smoked salmon, honey ham and spinach & mushroom.  We got them all and they featured runny egg yolks and a silky champagne Hollandaise.  I would've liked to see the English muffin toasted more, but honestly, what a great effort for a buffet.

Right next to the eggs benny was the Pasta Station.  Yep, this was also made-to-order and featured 3 choices including Spaghetti with meat sauce, Rotini with pesto and Rotini with spicy sausage.  Yes, the pasta was already par-cooked and need to be reheated, but it still turned out al dente.  The fact that the pasta was not sitting in a chaffing tray meant it was ideal in texture and the flavours were activated from the toss in a hot pan.  Really solid offering for a buffet.

The last made-to-order station was the Omelette Bar on the opposite side as the Benny bar.  We could have custom omelettes with ingredients that included ham, mushrooms, bacon, tomatoes, peppers, cheese, spinach and green onions.  As you can see on the plate (with the salads), the egg was just barely cooked through.  That ensured the eggs would be fluffy and just a little runny inside.  Perfect!

If you are fan of Desserts, they didn't disappoint with 4 different tables including Easter-themed treats (with some Charcuterie as well), dessert jars and creme brulee, fruit and cakes as well as a chocolate fountain.  You really could find something here for everyone.  Unless you are so dessert savant, you wouldn't be able to eat one of everything either.  So there you have it, an extensive Sunday Brunch Buffet that I think is worth the money.  They have their Mother's Day Sunday Brunch coming up for $49.95 (adults), $39.95 (seniors) and $29.95 (children).  The menu will be slightly different as they change it up often.

*All food and beverages were complimentary for this blog post*

The Good:

- Fairly large selection with many made-to-order stations

- Decent quality

- Large space

The Bad:

- I would've liked to see at least one more seafood option