It has been a long time since I've been back to The Screen Door. In fact, count it 10 years ago that I dine on their Southern cuisine at their Burnside location. It isn't as if I didn't want to go back, but since I'm only in Portland infrequently, there are just too many great places to dine at while I'm there. Well, here I am back at the Burnside location to sample their wares once again. Unlike last time, I wasn't sitting outside (which was nice btw) since it was rather cold (in Winter).
We started with a classic in the Crispy Fried Oysters dredged in cornmeal and served with housemade tartar sauce. These were excellent with a uniformly crunchy exterior that was not heavy nor greasy. It was properly seasoned as is, but the light tartar helped add creaminess, tanginess and brightness from the dill. As for the oysters themselves, they were buttery and briny while just barely cooked through. The juiciness was a nice contrast from the little nuggets of crunch from the cornmeal.
Of course we couldn't forget about their Chicken & Waffles right? We opted for the 2 piece (breasts) that sat atop a sweet potato waffle. Sporting little crunchy bits strewn throughout the exterior of the tender and juicy chicken breasts, the fried chicken was delicious. It was texturally on point inside and out while properly seasoned as well. As for the waffle, it was crispy on the outside and soft on the inside. It was naturally sweet and also aromatic.
Another Screen Door classic is their Lowcountry Shrimp & Grits. This featured plump and buttery shrimp that were completely seasoned by the rich meaty garlicky tomato sauce. The smokiness and richness oft he bacon really came through. This sat atop creamy cheddar grits that were smooth and the proper consistency (not too runny or thick). To make it extra silky, we had 2 over-medium eggs as well. On the side, we found a large buttermilk biscuit served with some jam. This was buttery and crispy on the outside with a fluffy and slightly salty inside.
One of the more surprising items we had was the Fried Catfish Sandwich. Thinking that we would be treated to some muddy flavors, we were delighted with the flaky sweetness of the moist catfish. It was coated in cornmeal, which was crispy and not heavy. It was served on a griddled bun that was crispy and held up to the wet ingredients well. The sandwich was finished with a crunchy and bright lemon slaw, dill pickles and house hot sauce mayo. Good combination of spice, tang, sweetness and saltiness. Fries on the side were solid too being crispy with soft potato goodness inside.
One of the more basic (if you can actually call this basic) compared to the rest of the dishes was the Cajun Scramble. This was a combination of andouille sausage, Cajun spices, onion & bell peppers and pepper jack cheese. Yep, there was some heat from the spices and the sausage while the sweetness from the veggies provided some balance. I would've liked the eggs to be a bit more fluffy though. This also came with cheddar grits and a buttermilk biscuit.
The last dish I dug into was our de facto dessert in the Bananas Foster French Toast. The griddled brioche was soaked in vanilla custard and hence, it was soft like bread pudding. Nice caramelization on the outside, but further enhanced by the rum-flamed caramelized bananas as it added another layer of sweetness and aromatics. The dish was finished off with cinnamon & whipped cream.
We also had a couple of cocktails in the Kentucky Bird and the Morning Mule. Both were refreshing and a good relief from the heaviness of the food. I thought the Kentucky bird had some great tang and sweetness. We were also provided with a selection of sauces including the Tartar, Creole Honey Mustard, Parmesan Aioli and Buttermilk Herb Dressing. I thought the aioli went well with the fries while I strangely liked dipping the fried chicken into the herb dressing. Honey mustard was also great with the chicken. Overall, the food at the Screen Door was great as usual. If you are looking for some Southern eats served in big portions, this is the place to find it. Maybe next time it won't take me that long to do a repeat visit!
*All food and beverages were complimentary for this blog post*
The Good:- Well-prepared Southern eats
- Large portions
- Lively atmosphere
The Bad:
- Well, of course this type of food is heavy, order a cocktail or beverage to wash it down