June on Cambie

It was about time I made a return visit to June on Cambie.  After all, the first time was delicious and although not inexpensive, the prices seemed reasonable with all things considered.  The place certainly has style with a modern, yet elegant dining space complete with a prominent bar.  Let's not forget that Head Chef Connor Sperling, formerly Chef-de-Cuisine at Published, is at the helm in the kitchen.  Along with Elem, June has been nominated for Best New Restaurant by Air Canada.  They are 2 of the hottest restaurants in Vancouver right now and I can totally see major awards coming their way.

For this visit, I decided to order some favourites along with some new dishes I haven't tried.  Dining at June would not be complete without their signature Crab Dip served with spiced madeleines.  They truly pack this dip with fluffy Dungeness crab and really nothing else other than the house-made crème fraîche and chives on top.  This way, the crab really was the star of the show where it was sweet, a bit briny and of course creamy from the crème fraîche.  The spiced madeleines were a bit sweet (maybe too sweet?) and firm, which held onto the crab well.

Of course we couldn't ignore their cocktails, so we got the Guava Batida and Chamberyzette.  We wanted some light and fruity cocktails which we got with these two.  The guava batida was tropical-tasting, sweet, tangy and slightly milky (due to the yogurt).  The rum did come through, but in a mild manner.  As for the chamberyzette, the sour strawberry cordial was at the forefront, which made it sweet and fruity.  Some vermouth hints in the form of earthiness was in the background.

Another favourite of mine is the Seared Hokkaido Scallops.  Served on the half shell, these perfectly seared scallops exhibited an aggressive caramelization.  Hence, it only helped concentrate the briny sweetness of the scallops.  Showing the precision in its execution, the scallops were still buttery soft with a rare centre.  On top, we found some fennel marmalade and chives.  Just a extra bit of sweetness (could be a problem for some who don't like it too sweet) with a side of brightness.  These sat in a butter sauce with lemon and verjus which provided a nutty loving hug with acidity.  So utterly delicious!

Continuing on with the staples at June, we had the gigantic Frogs Legs.  These massive things were juicy and tender.  On the outside, they were glazed with espellette and B.C. honey which offered up both sweetness, smokiness and the faint hint of spice.  If you can imagine, this was quite the flavour bomb since all of the above qualities were rather loud.  To bring balance to the boldness, we found a lime mignonette on the side.  This afforded a bright acidity which kept things from being too heavy.

Yep, the next dish was also another one I've had before in the Bluefin Tuna.  Encrusted with a cracked peppercorn blend, the tuna was lightly roasted on charcoal.  So you would think that it would be overly smoky and pepper right?  Well actually no.  Rather, the bluefin was still able to shine and be its bright and clean buttery self.  Now if that wouldn't overwhelm the fish, you'd think that the red pepper escabeche would be the culprit...  Once again, nope.  We definitely got the sweet and sour notes, yet the bluefin could still stand on its own.

Now onto a dish I've yet to try - the Paris Tartare.  This consisted of Haida Gwaii albacore tuna with a lemon vinaigrette and basil mayo.  This was a colourful and visually-appealing dish that had some French, but also Westcoast influences.  Now it wasn't Asian influence such as employing soy, sesame oil and the sort.  Rather, it was quite classic with an acidic vinaigrette balanced off with some mayo.  Hence, this was not a flavour bomb.  It was much more subtle and it let the beautiful fish do the heavy-lifting.  The soft-poached quail's eggs added some custardy elements and the tomatoes and radicchio afforded some brightness, bitterness and tang.  We had some crispy brioche toasts on the side.

Another dish I've yet to try was the Truffle Eggs.  These were simply soft-poached free-range eggs with a generous helping of truffle mayo on top.  At first, I was a bit concerned it would be overpowering but alas, it was quite restrained.  It was creamy with only a purposeful amount of truffle.  Providing some texture, we found nutty brown butter crumb on top with a bit of chives.  Back to the usual, we had the June Brioche with cultured butter and sea salt.  With a slightly crispy exterior and a fluffy interior, the warm bread accepted the creamy butter meltingly.  Such buttery goodness...

Second round of cocktails included the Genmaicha Clover Club and Verdita Colada.  Both of these had a bit of spice, which was welcomed.  The clover club had fruitiness in the form of lemon and raspberry while sweetness from the honey.  Since the base was gin, it wasn't overly strong, so the horseradish did come in at the end.  For the verdita colada, it had a kick from the chili oil and beautiful smokiness from the mezcal.  This was balanced off by the sour pineapple and the herbaceousness of the chartreuse.  We loved this cocktail and it was our favourite.

Finally getting some veggies into the meal, we had the Beet & Endive.  This was pretty simple where it allowed the main ingredients to shine.  The golden and red beets were tender, sweet and earthy.  The fresh crunch of the endives with just a touch of bitterness was the perfect foil for the beets.  Things were dressed in a sherry and walnut vinaigrette.  Next, we had a daily feature in the Burrata with roasted squash and sunflower seeds atop a miso pumpkin seed puree.  First and foremost, the burrata was fresh as evidenced by the creamy centre and delicate casing.  Just some EVOO and sea salt was all it needed.  The squash was perfectly-textured being firm while soft in the middle.  It was intensely sweet.  That miso paste was full of umami and nuttiness.  Really enjoyed that with the squash.

Here is the first dish that was just "ok".  The Halibut Beurre Blanc was a pretty dish, but the fish itself was a bit stiff.  Nice sear on the outside which created a crust and it was also well-seasoned.  But the flakes of fish were lacking moisture.  Loved the beurre blanc as it was almost creamy with a nice amount of acidity.  With the addition of Sauternes, we had some sweetness too.  The greens and herbs surround the fish really helped brighten the dish.

Before we ordered all this food, we were deciding which steak we should get.  Originally, it was the Bavette since it would be smaller, but we did the YOLO thing and ordered the 12oz Aged Ribeye.  Turned out to be a great idea as the steak was beautifully prepared and super tender.  Being aged 40 days, it was in the sweet spot that it became softer and more nutty without tasting like blue cheese (beyond 45 days).  This sat in a rich brandy sauce.

On the side, it was served with beef fat Fries accompanied by moutarde extraordinaire and mayo maison (essentially fancy mustard and aioli).  These fries were fantastic being crunchy, hot and full of nutty beef fat goodness.  Tasted like it was basted with butter.  To balance this sinful treat, we had the Salade Maison featuring butter and romaine lettuce in a dijon vinaigrette.  Bright, fresh and crunchy while sauced in a tangy and sweet dressing, this was a good interlude between bites of steak.

Before we got to dessert, we were served some Nitro Espressos which were full of coffee flavour but it wasn't bitter nor too strong.  Furthermore, they were mildly strong and sweet, perfect to go with their signature dessert - Chocolate.  This featured a milk chocolate mouse atop a hazelnut praline base.  Good textural contrast and also delicious and creamy chocolate mousse.  A Frangelico crème anglaise was served tableside which amped the hazelnut flavour even more so.  As if we needed anymore creaminess, there was so chantilly on the side (I still ate it happily...).

We ended up trying both of their available Soft-Serve du Jour.  The first was a Cream Cheese Soft-Serve with plum & peach crumble.  Nice temperature contrast between the warm crumble and cold soft-serve.  It was definitely cheesy and creamy while the crumble had nice tartness and crunch.  The other one we had was the Strawberry Soft-Serve, which was more like a sherbert being creamy but having sorbet vibes.  It was tangy and mildly sweet.  Very refreshing.  In the end, this was another delicious visit to June on Cambie.  Considering the level of service and food quality, I find the prices to be reasonable.  Whether they win the Best New Restaurant by Air Canada or not, I feel great things are coming their way real soon!

The Good:

- Well-executed dishes

- Cool vibes

- Attentive service

The Bad:

- Smaller tables are tightly packed

- Possibly some items are a bit too sweet

Song by Kin Kao

Here we go with another return visit to Song!  This is particularly significant because we ate here shortly after they reopened.  They were victims of a fire and were able to get up and running in just a month.  You will now notice that "Kin Kao" is prominently displayed above their doorway (paying homage to their original restaurant on Commercial Drive).  We had actually dined at Song earlier in the year, but I didn't blog about.  This time around, we had some pretty awesome new dishes and I really wanted to share!

I don't believe we've ever dined at Song and "not" have the Laab Wings.  These flats were split down the middle and hence were evenly deep fried.  The crispiness of the rendered skin was perfect while the meat was still moist and tender.  I really think everyone should prepare their wings like this!  Furthermore, the laab seasoning was more effective this way as more surface area was coated Hence, we got tangy, sweet, salty and spicy.  So addictive!

Probably the grandest-looking dish was the Papaya Salad with Soft-Shell Crab.  The salad itself was bright, fresh and texturally on-point.  With each bite, the crunch from the green papaya and carrots was pleasing.  Temperature was just right too.  There was a nice balance of sweetness, tanginess and spice which really tickled our tastebuds.  The soft shell crab was not merely for decoration as it added a light crunch and creamy briny-sweetness.

Another solid dish was the Thai Chili Tofu.  Sure, it didn't look like much, but I assure you, it was a textural and taste delight.  The core of the dish was the perfectly fried slices of tofu.  With the right firmness, the tofu was still soft and silky while holding up to the aggressive deep-fry.  It was crispy and robust which held up to the delicious garlicky and spicy sauce.  Some fried basil and bell peppers added aroma and sweetness as well.

One of the most simplest dishes we ordered was the Daily Vegetable Stirfry, which happened to be the Tong Choy or Stir Fried Water Spinach.  Unlike the Chinese version, this was not prepared with fermented tofu. Rather, we got some brininess from the addition of fish sauce as well as some small dried shrimp.  There was considerable wok hei which meant there was smokiness and intense caramelization.  We got some spice from the chili peppers too.  The water spinach still had crunchy stalks with tender leaves.

Another new dish that we've not had before was the Green Curry with Beef Shank.  Sure, we've had a green curry at Song in the past, but with the tender melt-in-our-mouths beef shank, it was a totally different experience.  There was much more body and robustness provided by the beef rather than chicken or fish.  For the curry itself, it was delicious as usual.  Lightly creamy and definitely briny, it had good spice.  To completely enjoy all of the sauce, multiple bowls of white rice would be ideal.

Of course we got the Pad Thai like we always do.  Moreover, we got it vegetarian-style as per usual.  Predictably, it was delicious as the balance between tamarind tanginess and palm sugar sweetness was on point.  Factor in the brininess saltiness of fish sauce and you have truly a wealth of flavours.  We couldn't forget about the wok hei either and the smokiness added depth.  Noodles were al dente and the dried baby shrimp on the top just added that something something to the dish.

Unexpectedly, the Kra Pao Beef arrived in big chunks of tender brisket rather than the ground up version.  Oh that was a nice surprise as the pieces of beef were so tender and had bits of tendon on them.  Texturally, they were an absolute delight.  Since they wok-fried the beef (that was already braised), it exhibited intense sweetness, smokiness and some spiciness.  The gai lan were vibrant and crunchy.

We had a really refreshing dessert in the Lod Chong Coconut Granita.  This was so light and refreshing with the sweetness of the corn being at the forefront.  But that gave way to the aromatic sweetness of coconut that worked well with the nutty and earthy sweet taro.  Really, the natural sweetness of the ingredients made this dish.  Overall, this was another delicious meal at Song.  I've never had a bad one here and it is no wonder they hold onto their Michelin Bib Gourmand year-after-year.

The Good:
- Impactful flavours
- Excellent wok hei
- Thoughtful execution

The Bad:
- It ain't cheap (I think they should be Michelin-Star rather than Bib Gourmand)
- Not the easiest place to find parking

i-Cafe Express (City Square)

For the longest time, i-Cafe resided upstairs on the Southwest corner of Broadway and Heather.  If you have been around for awhile, you will remember that location was Jukebox Johnny's in the 80's.  Now we find i-Cafe as a food court stall in City Square right beside Dumpling King.  They are now known as i-Cafe Express and I really do think this concept lowers the overhead with less staff and of course, less retail space.  They have most of their favourites on the menu while offering a slightly lower price point.  I was able to take out once and eat in another time for this blog post.  

On my first visit, I took home some of the Hong Kong-Style Cafe essentials including the veritable Baked Pork Chop Rice.  This was a decent portion consisting of the necessary fried rice base topped with a good amount of fried pork chop on top.  The pork was tender and meaty without too much fat.  The abundance of sauce was quite textbook being thick from the roux and exhibiting a balance of tanginess and sweetness.  This was a competent version of the dish.

Another classic dish that needs to be included is the Spaghetti Bolognese.  Depending on the version, it can get pretty close to the Italian dish.  This one here was certainly meaty and was the beneficiary of the sweetness from the onions.  Lots of depth and richness from the creaminess added to the sauce.  There was enough of it too that it coated all of the al dente spaghetti in the tin container.

So the Curry Beef Brisket may not be as vital as the previous 2 dishes when assessing a HK-Style Cafe, but it is a menu staple nonetheless.  This one was actually decently spicy with a good amount of earthy curry hit.  The coconut milk/cream provided plenty of creaminess and aromatics.  The beef itself was quite tender and so were the potatoes.  The side of rice was a generous portion.

On another visit, I actually sat down to eat and went with 2 dishes.  The first was the Laksa that was stuffed to the top of the plastic bowl with bouncy noodles and coconutty broth.  I wished it had more spice and brininess as it was aromatic but bland.  However, the plethora of components made up for it as I was eating for awhile to actually make a dent.  I liked the little details were there such as the soft-boiled egg (not cooked to oblivion).

I originally wasn't going to finish my second item in the Chow Kway Teow, but it was so good, i finished it too!  It was a good sized portion that was the beneficiary of solid wok hei.  Hence, there was smokiness and caramelization.  The noodles were nicely chewy while not clumping together.  Seasoning was adequate being a bit spicy, a bit earthy and plenty savoury.  They didn't skimp with the ingredients too.  Solid dish.  Overall, the food at i-Cafe was like it was before - solid and dependable.  I like the concept of them being in a food court as it lowers their operating costs and hence, the prices are reasonable.

The Good:

- Dependable decent HK-Style cuisine

- Reasonable pricing

- Decent portion size

The Bad:

- Well, being in a food court, you lose the restaurant experience, but you would find something like this at Aberdeen Centre as well

- The Laksa could be more flavourful

Lucia on Main

Awhile back, I was getting my hair cut at my hairdresser when I looked across the street to see that Smitty's had closed.  A few more visits to my hairdresser and I noticed that it was being replaced by an Italian restaurant called Lucia.  Taking a closer look at what it is all about, the place seeks to be unpretentious and welcoming while Chef Zach Steele combines traditional Italian with Westcoast influences.  This sounded like the place to go when the hockey crew wanted to meet up for a Monday dinner.

For a Monday, the place was hopping and was definitely inviting and we never felt pressured to rush through our dinner.  We decided to do our meal "alla famiglia" with a selection of dishes including the Sourdough Focaccia with a delicious butter.  Honestly, we weren't paying attention to what the creamy butter was, but it was fantastic on the appealingly chewy bread with a beautiful crust.

We really enjoyed the Polenta Fritters as they were a whole lot lighter than most other versions I've had.  Encased in seasoned bread crumbs, the polenta was creamy and well-seasoned without being dense.  They were crunchy on the outside and topped with grana padano.  Underneath, we found a tasty pesto aioli that was creamy and well-blended.  Hence, we got nuttiness as well as herbaceousness.

Probably the most popular appie we had was the Calabrian Cheese Dip served with house-made flat bread.  Honestly, we could've put this dip on shoe leather and it would've tasted good.  It was creamy, appealingly salty and cheesy.  However, it was not merely one note as we could pick out the tangy nuttiness of the manchego.  The fluffy bread was the perfect match for this dip.  But again, we put that on other things at the table too!

We decided to order a couple of pizzas including the Capicola and the Wild Mushrooms.  As you can see, the pizzas weren't exactly traditional Neapolitan, but it worked for us just fine.  It was thin, uniformly crispy and had a shattering crunchiness.  I enjoyed the properly salted dough as well as the chewiness of the crust.  With a combination of spicy capicola, roasted peppers and confit garlic, there was not absence of impact.  As for the mushrooms, it was more subtle but still there was plenty of woodsiness and earthy truffle.  I enjoyed the simplicity of this pizza more.

Moving onto the pastas, we tried all of them starting with the Fregola Sarda.  The sweet pops from the charred corn was a nice counterbalance to the salty pancetta. There was rich cheesiness provided by the ricotta salata as well as from the cheese on top.  The little fregola pasta was delicate but still had texture.  Not to be forgotten, the charred zucchini was tender but not mushy.  It had some natural sweetness with a bit of bitterness from the skin.

The best pasta according to everyone hands down was the Spinach & Mascarpone Tortelli.  These precious little pockets contained a considerable amount of filling which was creamy but not runny.  The pasta itself was thin and still fairly al dente (especially for a fresh pasta).  This was all tossed in brown butter, which was nutty and seasoned just enough.  Adding some cheesy saltiness, we had some grana padano on top.

We had some differing opinions about the Lumache with Italian sausage in a vodka sauce.  Some thought it was salty while others thought it was fine.  For me, there were pockets of saltiness, especially from the sausage, but not enough to be "too salty".  The pasta itself was tender and just a bit past al dente.  I loved the vodka sauce as it was creamy with a mild tanginess.

Other than the tortelli, the Bucatini Bolognese was also really good.  Featuring fresh bucatini, there was a more gentle texture than the dry version.  It was tossed in a hearty bolognese that was rich and meaty with a background creaminess.  It was plenty savoury with a balancing sweetness as well.  The generous amount of grana padano provided plenty of nuttiness.  I would come back for this dish alone.

We only ordered one meat dish in the Squid that was grilled and served with salmoriglio.  The exterior of the squid was quite nice being nicely charred and appealingly chewy.  However, the inside was rather soft and mushy.  It would've been better that they butterflied the squid and grilled it for a more uniformed preparation.  As for the salmoriglio, it was a nice compliment to the squid being tangy and bright.

For good measure, we added some sides including the Broccolini and the Potatoes.  We really enjoyed the perfectly prepared broccolini as it was crunchy but cooked all the way through.  Nice char that offered smokiness and caramelization.  We didn't enjoy the potatoes that much as they were not crispy and quite dry.  As much as there was plenty of cheese and herbs on top, it didn't season the potaotoes effectively.  Overall, our meal at Lucia was good and we thought the pricing was completely reasonable.  Service was great and we never felt rushed.  Would come back.

The Good:

- Generally tasty food

- Reasonable prices

- Nice vibe

The Bad:

- Those potatoes were not very good

- I didn't think so, but many at the table thought some things were salty 

Bar Corso

A year ago, I had a fantastic meal at Bar Corso that featured small share plates that were well-prepared and relatively reasonably-priced.  We had sat outside on the streetside patio enjoying the nice weather, while people-watching and having good conversations.  I had planned to come back but things were rather busy in the past year for me, so it got lost in the shuffle.  Ironically, Jackie and I were invited to try their Tasting Menu where I was able to return and do something different.  

For $65.00, we were served 5 courses starting with some antipasti in form of Sottacetti featuring various pickles.  These were crunchy and tangy with the celery being our favourite.  The beets were good too.  The side of Focaccia Bread was a bit too dense for our liking though.  In the past, I've only had Bagna Cauda as a dip with crudités, but this version, the radishes were already tossed in the anchovy, garlic and olive oil dip.  It was tasty with a briny creaminess that complimented the fresh and crunchy radishes.  Crunchy garlic chips on top added extra aroma.

The anitpasti didn't stop there as we had 2 more items including the Albacore Tuna Crudo and the Marinated Zucchini.  We found the crudo to be fresh and bright.  I personally would've loved more acidity, but it was sufficient in this case.  The spiced tomato gel added a muted kick that was needed.  Crunch from the puffed risotto was the textural contrast that was the cherry on top.  As for the zucchini, the tender ribbons were fresh. The aromatics of the saffron dressing was in the background while the stringiness of the stracciatella added creaminess.  Some light crunch was provided by the fried zucchini blossoms on top.

Onto the Primo course, we were served the Escarole.  This consisted of sautéed Bitter Farm greens that was nicely tempered by a roasted peach and burrata sauce.  The sweetness of the peach (elevated by being roasted) and the creaminess of the cheese was the prominent flavour profile of the dish.  There was some crunch from the escarole while the pine nuts provided a different crunch to the dish.  Lastly, some black olive added some briny saltiness.

 

Our favourite course happened to be the Agnolotti filled with taleggio.  I found the pasta to be just the right thickness where it held everything together but was still delicate with an al dente chew.  What really made this dish was the toasted kelp and marsala buerre blanc.  With just a hint of sweetness to go with the nutty and umaminess of the kelp, the sauce was rather addictive.  It wasn't too heavy despite the butter, so we could eat lots of this.  Too bad it wasn't a big portion.

 

After a considerable wait (but was forgivable since it was a Friday night), we were served the Galantina.  This consisted of a roasted guinea fowl ballotine topped with turnip greens, shaved black truffle.  It sat atop caramelized turnip puree with preserved lemon and pistachio.  The ballotine itself was a touch dense, but the meat was still juicy.  Loved the combination of flavours as we had earthy, salty, nutty and bitterness.  This helped add some literal meat to a mostly vegetable-forward menu.

 

At the end, we were served the Semifreddo asll'Olio d'Oliva.  Really enjoyed this as the semifreddo was exactly that, semi-frozen.  Hence it had a soft texture, but not melted.  A bit creamy and just sweet enough.  The sea buckthorne glaze was tangy and provided a contrast to the sweetness.  Overall, we thought the food at Bar Corso was thoughtful and carefully-prepared.  It was as good as I had remembered and the pricing for the tasting menu is reasonable.

*All food was complimentary for this blog post*

The Good:

- Classy food

- Well-prepared

- Tasting menu is well-priced

The Bad:

- Being a veggie-forward menu, it may not be that filling for bigger appetites