Paramount Chinese Seafood Restaurant

Formerly Lucky Plus, the chinese restaurant on the corner of Rupert and 22nd is now known as Paramount Chinese Seafood Restaurant.  Not to be confused with Golden Paramount in Richmond, this is a totally new crew.  We had stopped by for Dim Sum earlier this year but I just never got around to posting about it.  Now on my second visit, I was able to order more dishes and yes, now I'm going to put my 2 cents in about the place.  Just like before, they have free underground parking available, but it fills up fast and for some reason, the elevator needs a key card to operate.  Seating is a bit tight, unless you score one of the booths by the window.  They are pretty busy, so best to grab a reso.

For our food, we got a bunch of the usual items including the Ha Gau (Steamed Shrimp Dumpling).  Rather than the standard 4 dumplings, they give you 5 here.  They were pretty good with a medium-thick dumpling skin.  It was translucent with a nice chewy bounciness that was soft. Inside, the shrimp filling was juicy and plump with the desired rebound texture.  Seasoning was good too where I could still taste the natural sweetness and aroma of the shrimp.  I did eat it with hot sauce though.  

Of course now I need to talk about the Siu Mai (Pork & Shrimp Dumpling) too.  These were rather large with a good mix of bouncy pork, fat and shrimp that had the buttery snap texture.  However, I feel that they didn't mix the filling properly as one of the dumplings was inundated with fatty gristle.  I had to spit half of the filling out because I couldn't chew it.  Other than that, the dumplings were good having enough seasoning to calm the pork flavour down.

Both times I've ordered the Beef Meatballs and I would say they beat the heck out of the meat to the point there is no meat texture.  These were so fluffy that it seemed like there was more air than meat.  However, I can see how this could be appealing to some people who want something easy to chew and not being too heavy.  For me personally, I would prefer the meatball to have more density and some natural meat texture left.  Flavourwise, they did taste good and of course with some Worcestershire on the side too.

Employing the same airy and buttery beef, the Beef Ribbon Rice Noodle Rolls were pretty much a uniform texture.  Almost fluffy and soft with only the slightest chew, the rice noodle was really good.  However, there was a lack of beef weaved into the mix, hence, it was mostly noodle.  For the beef that was in there, it was the same as the beef meatballs as mentioned.  It definitely needed some soy since there was a lack of meat.  For the more typical version, we also had the Shrimp Rice Noodle Roll (on a separate visit) and it was good.  Although the rice noodle wasn't the thinnest, it was still buttery soft with some elasticity.  There was a good amount of bouncy and seasoned shrimp inside.

On the same visit, we went for the Steamed Pork Spareribs.  Yes, these ate just as good at the picture would imply.  The dish consisted of meaty rib pieces that were tender with the classic bouncy chewiness.  These were the beneficiary of the ample minced garlic, which added aroma and impact.  It was also well-seasoned which was salty enough without being salty.  Also liked that there wasn't too much moisture on the bottom of the plate.  Some tapioca starch helped create a glaze of sorts that added silkiness to each bite.

Both visits yielded my favourite dish, Steamed Beef Tripe and Tendon.  As you can see in the picture, the portion size was generous.  Cut into large pieces, the tripe was tender with an appealing chewiness.   The tendon was soft with its classic gelatinous texture.  Every piece of tendon was the same texture, unlike some versions where we have some melted and others tough and chewy.  In terms of seasoning, the dish was plenty savoury, sweet and garlicky with a small dose of pepperiness.

One of my favourite Dim Sum dishes is the Bean Curd Skin Roll.  I try to order it whenever I can, but often it isn't everyone's cup of tea.  This one was good with a chewy, yet delicately fried (and then subsequently steamed) bean curd skin.  Inside, the pork filling was meaty with whole chunks and some fat as a binder.   There was some carrot and celery mixed into it and were soft, but still vibrant.  I thought the rolls were sufficiently seasoned enough so it wasn't just pork flavour.  For myself, I always dip it into Worcestershire sauce.

Presented in a large portion of large and plump segments, the Steamed Chicken Feet was really good.  Sometimes, we find chicken feet that are pretty shrivelled up from the deep fry.  These were super plump with soft cartilage and fat underneath.  Tender and soft, the skin and cartilage was easy to separate from the bone.  Much like the tripe and tendon, the flavours were savoury, sweet and garlicky.

As always, we got an order of the Shrimp Spring Rolls, even though the kids were not around.  Good decision though as these were also well-executed.  They were fried until golden and super crunchy with minimal greasiness.  Inside, the shrimp filling was not overly dense, but still packed in there.  Hence, we got plenty of the sweet shrimp crunch along with the garlic and seasoning.  They were also served piping hot, which made a big difference.

One dish we always get is the XO Daikon Radish Cake.  I'm not a huge fan of the pan fried version as it can often be pale-looking, in need of an actual hard sear.  For this version, it is cubed and deep-fried, then wok-tossed with XO sauce, sprouts and peppers.  This was solid with the daikon cake being crispy on the outside while soft and fluffy on the inside.  Good natural daikon flavour accented by the cured sausage.  I wished there was more spice from the XO sauce, but it was still tasty.

Occasionally, we order the Stuffed Eggplant with shrimp paste.  Not sure why we don't do it every time as it is Viv's favourite dish.  Well, this was a good version of it as the pieces were quite large.  Furthermore, there was more bouncy and sweet shrimp paste than eggplant.  As for the eggplant, it was fully cooked while not being totally mushy.  There was even a bit of crispiness on the outside.  However, the starch-thickened black bean sauce was rather weak and diluted.

On the other hand, we rarely order the Xiao Long Bao (Soup Dumplings) at Cantonese Dim Sum since it is a Shanghainese specialty.  We have rarely stumbled upon a good one and this was no exception.  It featured medium-thick dumpling skin that needed more elasticity.  Inside, there was some soup, but it wasn't the right flavour missing the shaoxing wine and ginger hits.  Meat was tender though and not gritty.

The one bigger dish we tried was the Chicken Clay Pot Rice.  They really overloaded this thing with well-marinated chicken.  Bone-in, the pieces of chicken were tender and buttery.  Once again, they were spot on with the tapioca starch, as it held onto the marinade with each piece of chicken.  As for the rice, it was dry (in a good way) and nutty.  Sure, there wasn't any socarrat, but I appreciated that the rice wasn't soggy.

Both times, we had the Baked Egg Tarts to end the meal.  I found the edges to be sufficiently golden brown where they were nutty and crispy.  The layers were discernible and shattered nicely when bitten into.  The egg custard was silky and only sweet enough.  Overall, both times we had Dim Sum at Paramount, it was pleasant and well-portioned.  Service was great, but a bit hard to flag down at times though.  Would return.

The Good:

- Above average Dim Sum

- Large portions

- Free parking

The Bad:

- Service is good, but hard to flag down when busy

- Seating in the middle is very tight

June on Cambie

It was about time I made a return visit to June on Cambie.  After all, the first time was delicious and although not inexpensive, the prices seemed reasonable with all things considered.  The place certainly has style with a modern, yet elegant dining space complete with a prominent bar.  Let's not forget that Head Chef Connor Sperling, formerly Chef-de-Cuisine at Published, is at the helm in the kitchen.  Along with Elem, June has been nominated for Best New Restaurant by Air Canada.  They are 2 of the hottest restaurants in Vancouver right now and I can totally see major awards coming their way.

For this visit, I decided to order some favourites along with some new dishes I haven't tried.  Dining at June would not be complete without their signature Crab Dip served with spiced madeleines.  They truly pack this dip with fluffy Dungeness crab and really nothing else other than the house-made crème fraîche and chives on top.  This way, the crab really was the star of the show where it was sweet, a bit briny and of course creamy from the crème fraîche.  The spiced madeleines were a bit sweet (maybe too sweet?) and firm, which held onto the crab well.

Of course we couldn't ignore their cocktails, so we got the Guava Batida and Chamberyzette.  We wanted some light and fruity cocktails which we got with these two.  The guava batida was tropical-tasting, sweet, tangy and slightly milky (due to the yogurt).  The rum did come through, but in a mild manner.  As for the chamberyzette, the sour strawberry cordial was at the forefront, which made it sweet and fruity.  Some vermouth hints in the form of earthiness was in the background.

Another favourite of mine is the Seared Hokkaido Scallops.  Served on the half shell, these perfectly seared scallops exhibited an aggressive caramelization.  Hence, it only helped concentrate the briny sweetness of the scallops.  Showing the precision in its execution, the scallops were still buttery soft with a rare centre.  On top, we found some fennel marmalade and chives.  Just a extra bit of sweetness (could be a problem for some who don't like it too sweet) with a side of brightness.  These sat in a butter sauce with lemon and verjus which provided a nutty loving hug with acidity.  So utterly delicious!

Continuing on with the staples at June, we had the gigantic Frogs Legs.  These massive things were juicy and tender.  On the outside, they were glazed with espellette and B.C. honey which offered up both sweetness, smokiness and the faint hint of spice.  If you can imagine, this was quite the flavour bomb since all of the above qualities were rather loud.  To bring balance to the boldness, we found a lime mignonette on the side.  This afforded a bright acidity which kept things from being too heavy.

Yep, the next dish was also another one I've had before in the Bluefin Tuna.  Encrusted with a cracked peppercorn blend, the tuna was lightly roasted on charcoal.  So you would think that it would be overly smoky and pepper right?  Well actually no.  Rather, the bluefin was still able to shine and be its bright and clean buttery self.  Now if that wouldn't overwhelm the fish, you'd think that the red pepper escabeche would be the culprit...  Once again, nope.  We definitely got the sweet and sour notes, yet the bluefin could still stand on its own.

Now onto a dish I've yet to try - the Paris Tartare.  This consisted of Haida Gwaii albacore tuna with a lemon vinaigrette and basil mayo.  This was a colourful and visually-appealing dish that had some French, but also Westcoast influences.  Now it wasn't Asian influence such as employing soy, sesame oil and the sort.  Rather, it was quite classic with an acidic vinaigrette balanced off with some mayo.  Hence, this was not a flavour bomb.  It was much more subtle and it let the beautiful fish do the heavy-lifting.  The soft-poached quail's eggs added some custardy elements and the tomatoes and radicchio afforded some brightness, bitterness and tang.  We had some crispy brioche toasts on the side.

Another dish I've yet to try was the Truffle Eggs.  These were simply soft-poached free-range eggs with a generous helping of truffle mayo on top.  At first, I was a bit concerned it would be overpowering but alas, it was quite restrained.  It was creamy with only a purposeful amount of truffle.  Providing some texture, we found nutty brown butter crumb on top with a bit of chives.  Back to the usual, we had the June Brioche with cultured butter and sea salt.  With a slightly crispy exterior and a fluffy interior, the warm bread accepted the creamy butter meltingly.  Such buttery goodness...

Second round of cocktails included the Genmaicha Clover Club and Verdita Colada.  Both of these had a bit of spice, which was welcomed.  The clover club had fruitiness in the form of lemon and raspberry while sweetness from the honey.  Since the base was gin, it wasn't overly strong, so the horseradish did come in at the end.  For the verdita colada, it had a kick from the chili oil and beautiful smokiness from the mezcal.  This was balanced off by the sour pineapple and the herbaceousness of the chartreuse.  We loved this cocktail and it was our favourite.

Finally getting some veggies into the meal, we had the Beet & Endive.  This was pretty simple where it allowed the main ingredients to shine.  The golden and red beets were tender, sweet and earthy.  The fresh crunch of the endives with just a touch of bitterness was the perfect foil for the beets.  Things were dressed in a sherry and walnut vinaigrette.  Next, we had a daily feature in the Burrata with roasted squash and sunflower seeds atop a miso pumpkin seed puree.  First and foremost, the burrata was fresh as evidenced by the creamy centre and delicate casing.  Just some EVOO and sea salt was all it needed.  The squash was perfectly-textured being firm while soft in the middle.  It was intensely sweet.  That miso paste was full of umami and nuttiness.  Really enjoyed that with the squash.

Here is the first dish that was just "ok".  The Halibut Beurre Blanc was a pretty dish, but the fish itself was a bit stiff.  Nice sear on the outside which created a crust and it was also well-seasoned.  But the flakes of fish were lacking moisture.  Loved the beurre blanc as it was almost creamy with a nice amount of acidity.  With the addition of Sauternes, we had some sweetness too.  The greens and herbs surround the fish really helped brighten the dish.

Before we ordered all this food, we were deciding which steak we should get.  Originally, it was the Bavette since it would be smaller, but we did the YOLO thing and ordered the 12oz Aged Ribeye.  Turned out to be a great idea as the steak was beautifully prepared and super tender.  Being aged 40 days, it was in the sweet spot that it became softer and more nutty without tasting like blue cheese (beyond 45 days).  This sat in a rich brandy sauce.

On the side, it was served with beef fat Fries accompanied by moutarde extraordinaire and mayo maison (essentially fancy mustard and aioli).  These fries were fantastic being crunchy, hot and full of nutty beef fat goodness.  Tasted like it was basted with butter.  To balance this sinful treat, we had the Salade Maison featuring butter and romaine lettuce in a dijon vinaigrette.  Bright, fresh and crunchy while sauced in a tangy and sweet dressing, this was a good interlude between bites of steak.

Before we got to dessert, we were served some Nitro Espressos which were full of coffee flavour but it wasn't bitter nor too strong.  Furthermore, they were mildly strong and sweet, perfect to go with their signature dessert - Chocolate.  This featured a milk chocolate mouse atop a hazelnut praline base.  Good textural contrast and also delicious and creamy chocolate mousse.  A Frangelico crème anglaise was served tableside which amped the hazelnut flavour even more so.  As if we needed anymore creaminess, there was so chantilly on the side (I still ate it happily...).

We ended up trying both of their available Soft-Serve du Jour.  The first was a Cream Cheese Soft-Serve with plum & peach crumble.  Nice temperature contrast between the warm crumble and cold soft-serve.  It was definitely cheesy and creamy while the crumble had nice tartness and crunch.  The other one we had was the Strawberry Soft-Serve, which was more like a sherbert being creamy but having sorbet vibes.  It was tangy and mildly sweet.  Very refreshing.  In the end, this was another delicious visit to June on Cambie.  Considering the level of service and food quality, I find the prices to be reasonable.  Whether they win the Best New Restaurant by Air Canada or not, I feel great things are coming their way real soon!

The Good:

- Well-executed dishes

- Cool vibes

- Attentive service

The Bad:

- Smaller tables are tightly packed

- Possibly some items are a bit too sweet

Song by Kin Kao

Here we go with another return visit to Song!  This is particularly significant because we ate here shortly after they reopened.  They were victims of a fire and were able to get up and running in just a month.  You will now notice that "Kin Kao" is prominently displayed above their doorway (paying homage to their original restaurant on Commercial Drive).  We had actually dined at Song earlier in the year, but I didn't blog about.  This time around, we had some pretty awesome new dishes and I really wanted to share!

I don't believe we've ever dined at Song and "not" have the Laab Wings.  These flats were split down the middle and hence were evenly deep fried.  The crispiness of the rendered skin was perfect while the meat was still moist and tender.  I really think everyone should prepare their wings like this!  Furthermore, the laab seasoning was more effective this way as more surface area was coated Hence, we got tangy, sweet, salty and spicy.  So addictive!

Probably the grandest-looking dish was the Papaya Salad with Soft-Shell Crab.  The salad itself was bright, fresh and texturally on-point.  With each bite, the crunch from the green papaya and carrots was pleasing.  Temperature was just right too.  There was a nice balance of sweetness, tanginess and spice which really tickled our tastebuds.  The soft shell crab was not merely for decoration as it added a light crunch and creamy briny-sweetness.

Another solid dish was the Thai Chili Tofu.  Sure, it didn't look like much, but I assure you, it was a textural and taste delight.  The core of the dish was the perfectly fried slices of tofu.  With the right firmness, the tofu was still soft and silky while holding up to the aggressive deep-fry.  It was crispy and robust which held up to the delicious garlicky and spicy sauce.  Some fried basil and bell peppers added aroma and sweetness as well.

One of the most simplest dishes we ordered was the Daily Vegetable Stirfry, which happened to be the Tong Choy or Stir Fried Water Spinach.  Unlike the Chinese version, this was not prepared with fermented tofu. Rather, we got some brininess from the addition of fish sauce as well as some small dried shrimp.  There was considerable wok hei which meant there was smokiness and intense caramelization.  We got some spice from the chili peppers too.  The water spinach still had crunchy stalks with tender leaves.

Another new dish that we've not had before was the Green Curry with Beef Shank.  Sure, we've had a green curry at Song in the past, but with the tender melt-in-our-mouths beef shank, it was a totally different experience.  There was much more body and robustness provided by the beef rather than chicken or fish.  For the curry itself, it was delicious as usual.  Lightly creamy and definitely briny, it had good spice.  To completely enjoy all of the sauce, multiple bowls of white rice would be ideal.

Of course we got the Pad Thai like we always do.  Moreover, we got it vegetarian-style as per usual.  Predictably, it was delicious as the balance between tamarind tanginess and palm sugar sweetness was on point.  Factor in the brininess saltiness of fish sauce and you have truly a wealth of flavours.  We couldn't forget about the wok hei either and the smokiness added depth.  Noodles were al dente and the dried baby shrimp on the top just added that something something to the dish.

Unexpectedly, the Kra Pao Beef arrived in big chunks of tender brisket rather than the ground up version.  Oh that was a nice surprise as the pieces of beef were so tender and had bits of tendon on them.  Texturally, they were an absolute delight.  Since they wok-fried the beef (that was already braised), it exhibited intense sweetness, smokiness and some spiciness.  The gai lan were vibrant and crunchy.

We had a really refreshing dessert in the Lod Chong Coconut Granita.  This was so light and refreshing with the sweetness of the corn being at the forefront.  But that gave way to the aromatic sweetness of coconut that worked well with the nutty and earthy sweet taro.  Really, the natural sweetness of the ingredients made this dish.  Overall, this was another delicious meal at Song.  I've never had a bad one here and it is no wonder they hold onto their Michelin Bib Gourmand year-after-year.

The Good:
- Impactful flavours
- Excellent wok hei
- Thoughtful execution

The Bad:
- It ain't cheap (I think they should be Michelin-Star rather than Bib Gourmand)
- Not the easiest place to find parking

i-Cafe Express (City Square)

For the longest time, i-Cafe resided upstairs on the Southwest corner of Broadway and Heather.  If you have been around for awhile, you will remember that location was Jukebox Johnny's in the 80's.  Now we find i-Cafe as a food court stall in City Square right beside Dumpling King.  They are now known as i-Cafe Express and I really do think this concept lowers the overhead with less staff and of course, less retail space.  They have most of their favourites on the menu while offering a slightly lower price point.  I was able to take out once and eat in another time for this blog post.  

On my first visit, I took home some of the Hong Kong-Style Cafe essentials including the veritable Baked Pork Chop Rice.  This was a decent portion consisting of the necessary fried rice base topped with a good amount of fried pork chop on top.  The pork was tender and meaty without too much fat.  The abundance of sauce was quite textbook being thick from the roux and exhibiting a balance of tanginess and sweetness.  This was a competent version of the dish.

Another classic dish that needs to be included is the Spaghetti Bolognese.  Depending on the version, it can get pretty close to the Italian dish.  This one here was certainly meaty and was the beneficiary of the sweetness from the onions.  Lots of depth and richness from the creaminess added to the sauce.  There was enough of it too that it coated all of the al dente spaghetti in the tin container.

So the Curry Beef Brisket may not be as vital as the previous 2 dishes when assessing a HK-Style Cafe, but it is a menu staple nonetheless.  This one was actually decently spicy with a good amount of earthy curry hit.  The coconut milk/cream provided plenty of creaminess and aromatics.  The beef itself was quite tender and so were the potatoes.  The side of rice was a generous portion.

On another visit, I actually sat down to eat and went with 2 dishes.  The first was the Laksa that was stuffed to the top of the plastic bowl with bouncy noodles and coconutty broth.  I wished it had more spice and brininess as it was aromatic but bland.  However, the plethora of components made up for it as I was eating for awhile to actually make a dent.  I liked the little details were there such as the soft-boiled egg (not cooked to oblivion).

I originally wasn't going to finish my second item in the Chow Kway Teow, but it was so good, i finished it too!  It was a good sized portion that was the beneficiary of solid wok hei.  Hence, there was smokiness and caramelization.  The noodles were nicely chewy while not clumping together.  Seasoning was adequate being a bit spicy, a bit earthy and plenty savoury.  They didn't skimp with the ingredients too.  Solid dish.  Overall, the food at i-Cafe was like it was before - solid and dependable.  I like the concept of them being in a food court as it lowers their operating costs and hence, the prices are reasonable.

The Good:

- Dependable decent HK-Style cuisine

- Reasonable pricing

- Decent portion size

The Bad:

- Well, being in a food court, you lose the restaurant experience, but you would find something like this at Aberdeen Centre as well

- The Laksa could be more flavourful