Holbox

On my previous visits to LA in 2019 and 2022, we ate at a lot of places but never got to hit up Holbox.  It came highly-recommended and in fact, has recently just been award a Michelin star.  High praise for a food stall located in Mercato La Paloma.  Chef Gilbert Cetina fuses Coastal Mexican cuisine with Southern Californian and Baja Califorinan influences.  They have an 8-course dinner on Thursdays and Fridays, but Viv and I were only able to make it out for lunch while we were in LA.

No matter, because there is still plenty to feast on including the Shrimp Aguachile.  This has to be one of the best, if not the best aguachiles I've had.  There was definite heat from the spicy green aguachile, but it was also refreshing and acidic.  It was also properly seasoned where the sweet shrimp took on all of the flavors.  The addition of crispy shrimp heads were great being a textural contrast to the soft shrimp.  Nice little tweak that elevated this dish.  Oh, and this came with saltines that you can enjoy with the aguachilie.

Next, we had the Blue Fin Tostada with avocado puree and arbol peanut sauce.  Featuring Baja California farmed blue fin tuna cerviche, the buttery soft texture really came through.  Also, the unmistakable sweetness and freshness of the sea was present as well.  Despite being a ceviche, the acidity was dialed down enough to let the blue fin shine.  The avocado puree only added some creaminess as it was mild while the peanut sauce was also creamy with smokiness.  Some pico de gallo provided some crunch and extra brightness.

Another killer dish was the Sopa de Mariscos (Seafood Stew).  This consisted of local rockfish, shrimp, kanpachi, mussels and house-made fish sausage.  This was outstanding where all of the seafood juices were completely incorporated into the broth. Therefore, the natural sweet and brininess of the seafood was at the forefront.  The whole thing was also properly seasoned.  Perfect for dipping that toasted airy bread.  The seafood itself was beautifully cooked where the fish was flaky and the mussels were plump.

From all the choices of tacos, we got a few including the Baja Shrimp and the Octopus.  Crispy on the outside while meaty and perfectly cooked on the inside, the shrimp were pretty sweet on their own.  However, the addition of some cabbage, crema, mayo, salsa roja and pico de gallo added crunch, brightness, acidity and background spice.  As for the octopus, it was tender with just a bit of crispiness on the outside.  It sat atop a calamari ink sofrito which provided some moisture as well as sweetness and earthiness.

Our last item was the Smoked Kanpachi Taco with local queso Oxaca, salsa cruda, avocado & peanut salsa macha. This was on par with the aguachile and seafood stew as our favorite item.  The flavors in this were impactful and memorable.  From the smokiness of the fish to the smoky and nutty salsa macha, this was addictive and we wanted another.  But alas, we were rather full and completely satisfied.  I gotta say that Holbox definitely deserves its Michelin-Star.  The food is fantastic in terms of freshness and execution.  It is interesting and does not hold back in announcing its flavors.  I would come back in a heartbeat and really, I need to get resos for that dinner tasting menu!

The Good:
- Fantastic flavors
- Food is exciting
- Relatively affordable

The Bad:
- Well, it is in a market and seating is a bit hard to find at peak times

Published on Main

Here we are at Published on Main...  for the 8th time.  You might be wondering why I keep coming back to the place right?  Is it because it is has a Michelin Star?  Believe it or not, that has nothing to do with my decision to come here.  I've been enjoying the intricately-prepared and beautifully-plated dishes since they opened - all on my own dime.  It is because the food is inventive, creative and just different.  I've never had a bad meal here and I don't expect that to change.

This time around, we were a bit disappointed to see that they have temporarily removed the Chips & Dip from the menu (something to do with not being able to source the right potatoes).  So we added the Chicken Fried Maitake with garlic scape ranch as a replacement.  This is a favourite of mine and although the dip isn't exactly the same as the chips & dip, it has some similar elements without the smoked fish.  As for the mushrooms, they were buttery and light with an equally light seasoned flour with some cornmeal.  These ate much lighter than they appeared with a super crispy exterior.

One dish that they have had on the menu since the beginning is the Aebleskiver filled with stewed herbs and pine nuts.  These donuts were fluffy, yet still slightly dense at the same time.  It was a desired form of density where it added texture without being heavy.  The outside was slightly crispy.  Inside, the herbs were tender and flavourful.  What brought this all together was the herb emulsion underneath.  So creamy and subtle, but bright.

The previous 2 dishes were actually added midway through the meal since I really wanted to eat them.  We actually started with the cured Scallop with oyster cream, smoked crème fraîche, sea asparagus and summer herbs.  This was a very delicate and dish with buttery soft scallops that were intensely sweet.  The cream and crème fraîche were subtle enough to let the scallop be at the forefront.  Definitely a background smokiness and brininess, but ever so slight.

Progressing to another light and refreshing dish, we had the Dungeness Crab topped with lettuce root, and buckwheat.  It sat in a herbal tisane.  The ample amount of crab meat was fluffy and a bit bouncy.  It was sweet and briny while complimented mildly by the herb paste underneath and also the tisane.  The thinly-sliced lettuce root was bright and provided just the smallest of texture to the plate.  However, with a bit of buckwheat, this provided some unexpected crunch. 

Onto something more robust, we went with the Wagyu Carpaccio topped with sorrel, shiso, fudgy yolk, garum, crispy shallots and garlic.  As with any raw Wagyu, this wasn't exactly melt-in-my-mouth tender.  Rather, it was buttery with some chew.  The reason for this is the amount of fat.  When not cooked down, it can tend to be a bit chewy.  However, the meat itself was flavourful due to the fat and it was further amped by the garum.  There was restraint with this as it can be overwhelming salty and pungent.  Loved the silky yolk as it provided some great mouth feel.  Some background bitterness and tang was provided by the shiso and sorrel.

One of my favourite dishes of the meal was the Summer Squash atop pepita mole and topped with pepita cream and pepita & sungold macha.  The halved zucchini were cooked masterfully where it was firm, yet still completely cooked-through and tender.  Absolutely loved the seed mole where it was nutty, earthy and lightly sweet.  The macha was the star of the show here where it was mildly spicy with a smoky nuttiness.  Loved the sungold tomatoes as they had pops of sweetness.

Heading to the heavier items, we had the Chargrilled Octopus with smoked castelvetrano, chorizo vinaigrette, crispy potatoes and shaved radish.  Loved the texture with the tentacle as it was soft yet while retaining a bite and chew.  The end of the tentacle was a bit crispy and nicely charred.  Impactful with a touch of spice, the chorizo vinaigrette sported bits of meaty sausage while being nicely acidic.  The smoked olive puree was smooth, mild and of course smoky.  Adding some texture, the crispy potatoes went well with the vinaigrette.

One of the featured dishes for the night was the Summer Beans in a Maggi emulsion.  Charred and cooked perfectly, the beans were still a bit crunchy and plenty vibrant.  I could get the smoky char with some of the beans.  As for the emulsion, I was a little on the fence about it.  On one hand, I love Maggi sauce.  I practically grew up with it (love it on eggs!).  However, the creaminess of the emulsion made this dish too heavy in my opinion.  I did enjoy the umaminess though.

With our choice of fish, we went for the Roasted Manitoba Pickerel with artichokes, radish, elderflower sauce and verjus.  This was an excellent dish with the pickerel sporting uniformly crispy skin that was well-seasoned.  The fish itself was flaky and moist.  Oh that elderflower butter sauce was lightly creamy, fruity and floral.  The acidity was provided by the verjus in a balanced manner.  It complimented the buttery sauce well.

We had one last savoury dish in the BC Fire Morel Gnocchi.  Bathed in a lightly creamy truffle sauce, the gnocchi were nicely seared.  Hence, there was caramelization and also a faint smokiness.  The texture was on point being pillowy soft but not airy.  Naturally, with a good amount of morels, there was definitely earthiness and nuttiness.  However, all of this was lightened up a bit with some lemon notes.  We also found some kelp, shallots and chives in the mix.

Onto dessert, we tried one of the newer options in Le Disco.  This featured discs sitting in cassis sorbet and black currant leaf oil.  I really liked the sorbet as it was almost creamy.  I found it melty and full-of-depth.  It was only lightly sweet, but with a strong currant flavour.  The oil was thick and rich while tasting like its colour.  I found it green-tasting and rather strong.  Now about those discs...  I am on the fence with them as the texture of dark one (was that black sesame?) was pasty.  The green (matcha?) was a bit better with some grittiness while the pink (strawberry yogurt?) was creamier with some iciness.  Did I like the discs?  Not really, but I did enjoy the rest of the dessert.

However, the ol' standby, Hay, was right there to end the meal perfectly.  This classic dessert (at Published) consisted of aerated hay custard with green apple and chamomile granita.  Airy, fluffy and a bit nutty, the semi-sweet custard was brought to life with the tangy sweetness of the apple granita.  Each scoop of this encouraged us to keep eating it.  We did and that didn't take long to finish!  In fact, we gobbled up everything that was put in front of us because it was delicious and eye-catching.  This is nothing new for us and that is what keeps us coming back.  I can guarantee that it won't be long until I'm back again!

The Good:
- Creative, delicious dishes
- The plating
- The service

The Bad:
- Well things aren't cheap, but worth it IMO  

Septime

Originally, I was trying to make a reservation for Septime to no avail.  You see, like many other restaurants in Paris, Septime was on their Summer break in August.  Hence, it looked like I was out-of-luck in making a reso to this 1-Star Michelin establishment.  But hold on, upon further inspection, I could make a reso since they were re-opening on the last few days we were in Paris.  I was on my computer as the time ticked to when I could book and snagged a table for lunch on our last day in Paris.

At Septime, they only have set menus, for both lunch and dinner.  As such, we had their Menu Carte Blanche for 70 Euros each.  We started our meal with the Vegetable Broth with raspberries.  This was so clean and pure where the flavour was intense, yet subtle.  Now that might not make sense, but believe me, it was all that and more.  The level of umaminess and impact was pretty impressive without the use of any protein.  The addition of raspberries didn't interfere with the broth, rather it enhanced it with a fresh and light brightness.

In a beautiful shade of rose, the Cured Red Tuna was bathed in a peach vinaigrette with rose oil.  Slightly cured with kombu for a week, this aged tuna was buttery soft while having a fermented fish sweetness.  It was bordering on funky, but didn't get there.  Instead, it was full of depth and umami.  Complimenting the natural flavours of the tuna, the fruity vinaigrette provided both acidity and sweetness.  The addition of rose oil was mildly floral and in reality, was mostly in the background.

Next up, we had the Cocos de Paimpol with butter, sea asparagus, seaweed and pickles.  Tender with a bite, these beans took on the butter in terms of flavour and also the silky and nutty film on the outside.  The other ingredients were mild and didn't add much in terms of overall flavour except for the pickles.  The acidity and saltiness did bring impact to the dish.  In addition, it added crunch.  The seaweed and sea asparagus provided some colour contrast and a just a touch of salt.

The best course of the bunch had to be the Tomatoes in poultry broth, satay sauce, coriander flowers and Thai basil.  Normally, I'm not a huge fan of tomatoes due to their bland flavour.  However, these were flavour bombs with acidity and sweetness.  The plump tomatoes sat in a broth that was full-on umami where it was almost like chicken bouillon except completely natural-tasting.  Concentrated flavours were complimented by the slight spice and aromatics from the flowers and basil.  Background lemongrass also came through.

The "meat" of the meal was the Veal Sweetbreads glazed on the BBQ with veal jus.  It was topped with crispy tarragon, sorrel and red pepper.  For me, I love sweetbreads, to this was right up my alley.  It was properly prepared (as in before it was cooked and after it was cooked), where the texture was soft with a rebound.  The intensity of the meatiness from the veal jus was amplified by the caramelization off the grill.  The reduced jus helped add even more meatiness and silkiness.  Add in the aromatic tarragon, tart sorrel and sweet peppers, we had layers of flavour going on.

For dessert, we were served a Fig Ice Cream with extra virgin olive oil, figs, blackberries and almonds.  This was a refreshing end to an intricately-prepared meal.  The ice cream was light and creamy with purposeful sweetness.  The blackberries and figs provided sweetness and at ouch of tang.  Almonds added texture while the olive oil afforded some aromatics and ever-so-slight pepperiness.  Overall, this was a thoughtful and expertly-prepared meal.  No wonder Septime clocks in at 11 on the world's best restaurant list.

The Good:

- Intricate dishes

- Balanced

- Excellent, unpretentious service

The Bad:

- With a set tasting menu, it might not appeal to everyone

- Hard to get a reservation!  

Okeya Kyujiro

I've had many expensive meals in my lifetime (I'm fortunate, I realize that), but honestly, this would be the most I've ever spent for myself and Viv on one meal.  With the urging of Mijune, I booked Okeya Kyujiro for Viv's birthday dinner recently.  She raved about the food and dining theatre provided by the experience.  Now this experience would cost $325.00 each person not including beverages, tax and tip.  Turns out with all that, we got close to $1000.00 for this dinner.  So was it worth it?  I guess you are about to find out!

So, the place only seats 16 people max around the sushi bar where you can see the considerable amount of staff curate all 25+ courses of the Omakase meal.  We started off with the Clam with Dashi Jelly.  This was a subtle dish that featured buttery soft clam meat that was naturally sweet with only the slightest of brininess.  As expected, the jelly was equally subtle with its signature umaminess and sweetness.  This was an excellent intro to the meal as it whet our appetites in the lightest way possible.

Speaking of light, our next course featured a Scallop Chawanmushi with ikura and a touch of freshly-grated wasabi.  Silky, sweet and aromatic, the chawanmushi was so made with such precision that there was barely a lick of excess moisture.  Rather, it was all egg that was super airy and buttery smooth.  Once again, this was an exercise of balance rather than exhibiting strong flavours.  The scallop on top was buttery and sweet while the ikura provided pops of brininess.  That little dollop of wasabi added just the slightest bite to the dish.

From here, the meal started ramping up in terms of impact with the Sawara (Smoked Spanish Mackerel) with ponzu.  The meatiness and and smokiness of the mackerel was so apparent, yet still not out-of-balance.  I found the texture to be robust, yet delicate at the same time.  Exhibiting a touch of bright and appealing fishiness, the smokiness brought a rich savouriness.  Things were kept light with the tang from the ponzu.

Next, we were served a beautiful piece of Blue Fin Tuna (Akami) Nigiri with Japanese mustard atop brown sushi rice.  Although not the fattiest parts of the fish (Otoro & Chutoro), this was still buttery soft with the clean taste of the sea.  It was lightly brushed where it further enhanced the fish with a sweet savouriness.  Underneath, the brown rice was firm and chewy while not hard either.  It was very lightly seasoned so that the blue fin tuna remained the star of the show.  However, the small amount of Japanese mustard afford some bite.

From this we moved onto a piece of King Crab Nigiri with tomalley that brought things down a notch with more gentle flavours and texture.  Naturally, the fluffy texture of the king crab was a contrast to the chewy sushi rice and crisp nori.  The sweetness and brininess of the crab was refreshing compared to the last 2 pieces of nigiri.   This was a nicely planned break before the next course.  Umaminess and sweetness was provided by the tomalley on top which helped bring more impact to the crab.

Progressing from the last 2 nigiri offerings, we moved onto the Lobster Tempura with sudachi juice and seaweed furikake.  This was comprised of a substantial nugget from the lobster tail.  As such, it was meaty, sweet and had all of the succulent bounce texture we associate with lobster tail meat.  The tempura batter was super thin and subsequently light and crispy.  It was not greasy, yet the meatiness was a good transition to the next item.

That next item was something more rich in the Brown Mushroom Soup.  Although there didn't seem to be any cream added, the soup itself was cooked down enough to be thick and full of body.  Normally, mushroom soup can be earthy and woodsy, but this one was far beyond that with a mushroom flavour that hit us in the face.  Calling it impactful would be an understatement.  It was also seasoned just enough where it enhanced the flavours without overshadowing the main ingredient.  I also enjoyed the mushroom pulp in terms of texture.

We moved back to mackerel with Saba Bou-Sushi (Seared Mackerel Pressed Sushi).  Unlike the previous mackerel course, this one was more pure tasting.  What I mean by that is, without the smoke, we got much more the natural mackerel essence.  This brown sushi rice paired well with this as it created a consistent robust bite from first chew to the last.

If you ever questioned the luxuriousness of this meal, it would be answered partially by the next course.  It featured a Flounder Nigiri with monkfish liver, flounder fin and topped with caviar.  Due to the more firm texture of flounder, it is usually a touch chewy, but in this case, it was surprisingly tender.  This was possibly due to the thinness of the slice.  It was lightly sweet.  Adding some more taste of the sea, the ankimo was firmly buttery.  As expected, the small piece of flounder fin was more delicate.  Of course the caviar added some brininess.

Continuing on with nigiri, we had the Shima-Aji next which was buttery and sweet with more impact than the flounder.  It was slightly fatty which made it tender and required very little chewing.  Again, it was brushed with nikiri which added some more sweetness and a touch of light saltiness.  It didn't need much though as it was flavourful on its own.

I expected there to be Miso-Marinated 

Gindara (Black Cod) somewhere during this meal and I was glad to see it served here.  It was classically marinated with sake and miso while beautifully seared.  We found a piece of Japanese ginger to compliment the fish.  Buttery and flaky, the fish was perfectly prepared.  As much as black cod can be forgiving, there is still certain levels of execution and this was on point.  There was just enough seasoning to compliment the fish while the Japanese ginger provided tanginess without the usual sharpness of typical ginger.

As we were progressing through each course, we began checking off the expected luxurious ingredients and sure enough the Hokkaido Uni appeared next.  It was served seaweed jam atop brown sushi rice on a spoon as well as Gunkan with nori.  There was no doubt how fresh this uni was where it was creamy and sweet with the essence of the sea without any funkiness.  The seaweed jam atop Bafun Uni added a jolt of umaminess that was a nice contrast to the pure taste of the nigiri.

So we got some refreshing reprieve from the uni coming from the gindara, now we moved onto something heavier with the Deep-Fried Taro with ankimo cream.  Creamy without any chalkiness, the taro ate easily.  It was coated in the thinest of tempura batter that was crispy and light.  As aromatic as taro can be, the ankimo cream provided that natural sweetness that brought things down a few notches even though it was quite creamy.

On cue, we were brought right back down with the refreshing Persimmon topped with Mashed Tofu.  This was far from complex, but it was thoughtful in terms of placement in the meal progression and also how it tasted.  The floral sweetness and subtle honey flavour of the persimmon was at the forefront as the mashed tofu was mild and creamy.

So far, with all of the things we had been served, the whole ingredient was displayed for us prior.  For instance, with the Golden-Eye Snapper with lemon and seaweed salt, they paraded it around showing us how fresh and stunning the fish was.  Well, it was truly beautiful in terms of the sweetness and slightly firm texture.  It had a slight smokiness due to the searing of the skin.

Presented in a hand-carved cucumber flower, the Moro Kyu featuring moro-miso with black bean was a fermented and umami delight.  Naturally, there was plenty of deep saltiness to go around, but the cucumber helped balance that off.  There was also some sweetness to go with the savouriness with this little bite.  Best of all, the crunch from the cucumber was nice texture after several courses of soft items.

Interestingly, Viv didn't know what she was eating in the Cod Milt with ooba leaf tempura and uni sauce.  I just had to have a giggle to myself about it.  This was lightly tempura fried and appealingly crispy while the milt was creamy and sweet with just a touch of the sea.  I thought the addition of uni sauce added even more seafoody sweetness.

Now in this picture, you might figure it is just a simple Miso Soup.  Yes, it was a miso soup, but with snow crab and harry crab shell infused elements.  Hence, this was intensely sweet and briny.  Furthermore, this paired well with the usual fermented umaminess of the miso soup to create depth of flavour while at the same time being naturally sweet.

Back to the nigiri, we had the Bluefin Otoro which was super fatty and buttery.  As you can tell in the picture, this was melting as it just sat there at lukewarm temperature.  That meant this literally dissolved in our mouths on contact.  The natural sweetness and appealingly fishiness came through with brightness despite the fattiness.  Good thing there was some chewy rice underneath.

The hits kept on coming with the Freshwater Eel that was butchered in-house just before being grilled and sauced.  The result was a super fresh skewer of buttery eel.  It was subtle with natural sweetness that was further enhanced by the caramelization from the grilling.  There was just enough sauce to compliment in a sweet and savoury fashion.

The top-notch ingredients continued with the A5 Wagyu Beef from the Miyazaki prefecture smoked with cherry blossom & black salt.  This little bite was so decadent and sinful, but also thoughtful in its simple seasoning.  The fattiness of the beef was at the forefront with aromatics and meatiness.  However, the small amount of salt added just enough seasoning to compliment the smokiness.

 

As if we could top any of the previous dishes, the Ikura Don with snow crab, bluefin tuna, bonito, seaweed and freshly grated wasabi was such a treat.  Naturally, the sushi rice was perfect in texture while the luxurious items on top was literally the icing.  We had the butteriness of the bluefin while the pops of the sea from the ikura added a nice brininess.  Such simplicity and it was all about the natural flavours and sweetness.

Although we'd already had some beautifully grilled freshwater eel, we were also served some tempura-fried Anago Nigiri.  Yet another example of premium ingredients prepared expertly, the eel was buttery soft while the light and crispy batter acted as a wonderful textural contrast.  Just slightly sauced, this was all about being subtle.

On the topic of simplicity, we were served a piece of Tamago next.  As basic as this is, there are so many bad versions out there.  Well, it is by no surprise that this was prepared with care.  Hence, it was fluffy, not dense and had all of the soft and velvety textures we'd expect.  Furthermore, it was sweet and delicately seasoned.

Our final savoury item was the Seafood Ramen featuring a clean and sweet broth with the intense umaminess of the freshly-shaved bonito.  We also found gold flakes that continued the luxurious theme of the meal.  With an intricate design, the kombu fan was a little surprise sitting in the broth.  As for the noodles, they were al dente with a nice chew.

 

Onto the dessert course, we found a Phyllo Apple Pie, White Bean Paste, Vanilla Ice Cream with raspberry sauce and Crown Melon (Japanese Musk Melon).  Everything on this plate was about simplicity (used this word many times!) and subtle flavours.  The apple pie was sweet and very light while the heaviest item was the bean paste, which was also lightly sweet.  The best part was the small piece of crown melon as it was super juicy, floral and sweet.

Lastly, we ended off this epic meal with the Green Tea Ceremony, which was part of the overall dinner theatre.  I can't stress enough how memorable this meal was.  This might sound outrageous, but the quality of the ingredients, expertise in preparation and entertainment value are probably worth more than $325.00pp.  I'm sure this will go up in price (as with everything else these days), so if you feel spendy and want to celebrate something special, Okeya Kyujiro is a Michelin-Star restaurant that is legit.  

The Good:

- Quality of the ingredients

- High level of execution

- Entertaining

The Bad:

- Well, yah it is going to cost you

- Due to the need for you to eat the food in its optimal state, each course comes pretty quickly