So we started with one of our favs in the Chips & Dip. This menu staple was missing from the menu the last time we were here since they could not source the right potatoes. Good call because if it isn't up to specifications, take it off the menu! With this version, I found the chips to be a bit thinner and lighter than before. No matter, still really tasty potato chips (which were salted just right). As for the smoked fish dip, it was creamy, chunky and full of smokiness and dill. A seemingly simple item, but a must order.
We had the refreshing Dungeness Crab next with a cute crab on top. The delicate crab sat atop some preserved tomatillo and was surrounded by cornichons, green olives, sungold tomatoes and sea asparagus with some fennel fronds. All of this was finished off with a clarified gazpacho. Lots of natural tomato flavour and brightness in this dish. More tomato came in the form of Pan con Tomate on the side. The bread was crunchy and a bit smoky while the tomato was bright, fresh and full-flavoured.
We them moved onto an OG menu item that has been there from the beginning - the Aebleskiver. These pancake balls are unassuming but utterly delicious. A bit crispy on the outside and plenty soft and pancakey inside, these were filled with stewed herbs. Full of aromatics and umami, these were tasty by themselves but ultimately, the herb emulsion completed the dish. It was creamy and subtle, giving some much needed moisture to the Aebleskivers.
Just like the chips & dip, another must-order for me is the Kentucky Fried Maitake. At first glance, one might assume these fried mushrooms are heavy and dense. That would be completely wrong as these were lightly crispy and almost light as a feather. The coating was beautifully seasoned with enough salt, pepper and spices. However, the garlic scape ranch on the side was not just for show, it was creamy and bright with a slight sharpness.
Of course we need to get some veggies into this meal and we did with the Badger Flame Beets with golden beets. Visually-appealing, the beets were sweet and a bit earthy while sitting on a tasty paste comprised of lemongrass, black vinegar and miso. That really gave the dish a kick in the pants with sweet tang, brightness and rich fermented saltiness. The whole thing was topped with shiso and sunflower seeds for extra herbaceous hits and texture.
We continued the vegetable theme with the Hispi Cabbage. At first, the dish didn't look all that exciting, but we shouldn't judge a book by its cover right? Well, the cabbage was excellent being firm, but cooked through and charred while dressed in a hazelnut mole and sat atop mucho macha salsa. If you can imagine, this was a flavour bomb of nuttiness, earthiness, sweetness, bitterness and a touch of spice. To finish the dish, we found some pickled onions and serranos which added crunch, mild heat and more tanginess.
The veggies didn't stop there as we also go the Summer Squash. The slices raw zucchini were neatly arranged atop a tabbouleh salad. Mixed within it, we found roasted squash and pickled patty pan squash and herbs. It was dressed in mega miso which was of course, full of rich fermented umaminess. The delicate texture of the squash was still noticeable amongst the other ingredients while the raw zucchini on top (with lemon dressing) provided a bright bitterness.
I long for the days when the scallops with apple was on the menu, but the Roasted Scallop with sweet corn, 'nduja and lobster mushrooms sounded quite good. In fact, it was excellent. The scallops were seared beautifully with the centre still rare. Hence it was naturally sweet with the extra caramelization on the external surfaces. With enough savoury elements and a touch of spice from the 'nduja, the sweet corn was able to compliment the already sweet scallops in a balanced manner.
One dish that I was indifferent about was the English Pea Tortelli. This really tasted how it appeared. It was very green with the lovage being dominant in the pistou. I'm sure that was intentional, but for me, I didn't get much of the peas. The pasta itself was firm and al dente, but it was a bit thick in my opinion. Hence, it was dense and not delicate. I did like the pickled ramps as it helped deviate from all of the green flavours. Some added crunch on top was appreciated.
Moving along to the meat portion of the meal, we had the Sticky Pork Ribs. These were fall-off-the-bone tender while retaining a meat texture. It was glazed with a pickled fermented fig BBQ sauce which was money. It was sweet, tangy and had a little something something. On the side, we found a summer beans and sungold tomatoes dressed in a Maggi dressing. I believe I've had this dressing summer beans last year and it was great! Nicely emulsified, the dressing was creamy and full of umami and saltiness.
In addition to the ribs, we added the Summer BBQ Beef for good measure. The tender slices of beef were meaty and quite lean. It was slathered with a lacto paprika BBQ sauce which was savoury more than sweet with some tanginess and definite paprika vibes. Underneath, there was some cheesy semolina grits where it was surrounded by spicy and crunchy brassicas in a calabrian garlic sauce.
Of course we had to get dessert right? We went for the classic (from day one) Hay featuring aerated hay custard. That light and barely there custard was mildly sweet and nutty. It was complimented by the green apple granita as it provided that burst of tangy sweetness as well as a hit of cold. The floral nature of the chamomile was also present. Beyond the pretty flower petals, we had some crispy meringue to add some needed texture.
So our second dessert happened to be the newest dessert in the Elderflower featuring a rose curd on the bottom with an elderflower mousse and a yogurt sorbet with honey lemon verbena. This was an appealing mix of floral, tangy and sweet with contrasting textures between the creamy curd and light mousse and firm top. As per usual, when they bring you the bill, it includes some final bites in housemade jellies and caramels. Once again, it was a fantastic meal at Published on Main. It truly earns its place in the top 10 of Canada's 100 Best Restaurants and I personally believe they should stay there. However, I still reminisce about the OG menu where they got to the top of the list. Maybe one day they will get there again.
The Good:
- Solid meal with some surprising flavours
- The classic dishes kept on the menu are excellent
- Just enough service that it isn't obtrusive
The Bad:
- I did enjoy the meat dishes, but they do not hit the highs of the ones I've had in the past
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