Cochon Butcher

So far, the weather in New Orleans was exactly as expected - hot, humid and some thunderstorms here and there.  We got a bit sunburned, drank lots of water, ate lots and thoroughly enjoyed ourselves.  Up until our brunch at Commander's Palace, the rain pretty much held off except for a brief one while we were at August.  However, we ended up spending our afternoon before our flight back home at Riverwalk since it was absolutely dumping.  This was no passing storm and really, we were lucky it came on our last day.  Prior to our flight, we decided to hit up something close to your hotel in Cochon Butcher.

We already had a wonderful dinner at Cochon next door, but at the butcher they are known for their sandwiches, in particular their version of the Muffaletta.  At first glance, the sandwich was medium in size, yet definitely generous with the meats.  I enjoyed that this was served warm with the oils of the meats activated giving off a salty aroma.  The bread was on point being toasted crispy on the outside and soft on the inside.  There was just enough olive condiment to give the sandwich some zing and fermented saltiness.  This was pretty tasty in my books.

Viv ended up with something lighter in the Smoked Turkey with avocado, sprouts, tomatoes and mayo.  This was all served between 2 slices of aggressively toasted and charred whole wheat bread.  Hence, there was a smoky and nutty crunchy that gave way to soft ripe avocado and fresh veggies.  The star of the show was the turkey though as it was moist, tender and plentiful.  Best of all, the smokiness really came through.  After the initial bite, the smoke flavor was impactful and lingered to the end.  We liked how it was as advertised since some smoked meats are not that strong.  Despite this, we didn't find it overwhelming as we could still taste the sprouts.

Lastly, we shared the Marinated Brussels Sprouts which were also very good.  They were fried just enough to give them a meaty texture while retaining a bite.  They were aggressively tossed in a spicy, savory and almost meaty dressing.  All the flavors were heard as the seasoning got in between the leaves of the sprouts.  There was also a nice smokiness from the deep fry as well.  After it was all said and done, we could see why this place is so popular.  Too bad we didn't have the appetite to try more sammies!

The Good:
- Loaded big sandwiches
- Well-priced
- On point meats

The Bad:
- Can get busy and seats will be at a premium

Commander's Palace

On our last day in New Orleans, we had reservations for the Jazz Brunch at Commander's Palace.  This was no small thing as this was yet another one of my bucket-list items.  Commander's Palace has so much history in the Garden District in NOLA and was briefly closed after Hurricane Katrina.  After renovations, it reopened in 2006 and has continued to serve haute cuisine complete with their legendary service.  We ended up taking the St. Charles street car to Washington and took the short 2 block walk down.  Upon entering, we were warmly greeted by the professional staff.  They do not fool around here as there is a dress code (do not attempt to wear shorts or t-shirts here!).

For those unfamiliar with the menu, the entree price includes both appetizer and dessert.  In my opinion, that makes their prices actually quite reasonable with all things considered.  I decided to start with one of their classic items in the Turtle Soup featuring veal fond and crushed lemon finished table side with a splash of sherry.  This reminded me of oxtail soups of years past where the rich meat flavour of the fond hit my palate strongly where the flavor lingered.  Of course the uncooked sherry was sweet and announced itself confidently.  There was a balancing tanginess and a good amount of pepperiness.  Viv decided on the Seafood Gumbo which was rich and Earthy.  The natural juices of the seafood seeped into the gumbo and there was an appealing sweet brininess.  We found the viscosity to be on point while the seafood was on point in terms of textures.

For her main, she had the Louisiana Shrimp & Romesco Rice featuring marinated white shrimp, popcorn rice, Romesco, asparagus, tomatoes, Parmesan, sweet corn & compressed basil oil.  The cook on the shrimp was perfect being buttery with a light snap.  It was mildly sweet and aromatic.  We absolutely loved the garlickiness of the Romesco as well as the nuttiness.  The rice was full-flavored as a result and the fresh corn off the cob provided bursts of sweetness.  Tart and plump, the tomatoes added the necessary zip to the dish.  Upon the recommendation of our server, I had the Sugar Cane Lacquered South Texas Quail stuffed with charred chili & popcorn rice boudin.  The quail couldn't have been prepared any better.  It was moist and tender with well-rendered skin.  I found the boudin to be peppery and smoky with savory depth.  Finally, that sugar cane glaze was money.  It provided a sweet balance to the rest of the flavors.

For dessert, Viv had the Commander's Palace standard in the Creole Bread Pudding Soufflé.  This sported a large meringue top that was airy and lightly sweet.  Underneath, the rich and creamy bread pudding was very sweet with hits of cinnamon and nutmeg.  It was finished off table side with a warm whiskey sauce that was mildly sweet.  That was a good thing as the bread pudding itself was a bit too sweet for us.  However, I can definitely see many people liking this due to the wonderful texture and flavor.  For myself, I had the Spiced Peach & Bourbon Gâteau featuring a rich brown butter cake, cane syrup poached peaches, peach coulis, and Chantilly whipped cream.  This arrived warm and aromatic.  The bourbon soaked cake was moist where the hit of cinnamon was strong.  I thought the poached peaches were tender and delicious.  So was Commander's Palace worth the visit?  For me, yes.  It met my expectations in terms of food and service.  A must-do when in NOLA.

The Good:
- Exquisite service
- Solid eats
- Love the jazz!

The Bad:
- Things can be on the sweeter side for some dishes

Pêche Seafood Grill

By the 4th day in New Orleans, we were already into a full food coma.  Viv was beginning to really feel it and didn't want to eat anymore.  However, she toughed it out like a champ by matching me bite-for-bite.  After going for some po' boys at Parkway for a late lunch, we were still rather full when we had to fulfill our dinner reservation at Pêche Seafood Grill.  I sold Viv on the place as a perfect solution to the heavy eating so far.  I strategically made the reservation for our 2nd-to-last day for a place that puts an emphasis on seafood, in particular, fish.

For our first appetizer, we didn't start with fish though.  Rather, we had the Steak Tartare with oyster aioli.  This was served atop crunchy toast that was nutty and smoky.  The beef was buttery and tender while sauced in a briny creamy aioli.  The crunch from the celery not only added the necessary texture, it also provided a brightness to counteract the richness.  The sprinkle of spice on top was noticeable with each bite but wasn't over-the-top.  We could've used a bit more acidity though.  We both thought the Crab & Jalapeno Capellini was utterly delicious.  It sported buttery noodles and almost an equal amount of sweet fluffy crab.  This in itself added a natural essence that was intoxicating that didn't need too much other seasoning.  There was a balancing sweetness as well as aromatics from fresh basil and onions.

For her main, Viv had the Baked Drum with saffron and tomato.  Unlike the one we had at Emeril's, this version was more subtle.  It featured moist and flaky drum that was beautifully seared and seasoned.  The sauce was very acidic and tangy where the spice level didn't overwhelm the fish.  Due to the strong sauce, we thought the saffron was not impactful.  On the other hand, the sweet and buttery peas were really good and offered up a interlude from the tanginess.  However, the well-charred bread (which stood up well to the sauce) was a nice vessel to dip with.  I decided on the Jumbo Shrimp with chili glaze and butter beans.  The shrimp were meaty and sweet with a strong natural flavor.  The sauce was tart and well-seasoned with a balanced spiciness.  I was addicted to the sweet pop of the charred corn, spice from the peppers and the smokiness of the bacon.  As for the butter bean cake, it was crispy on the outside and tender on the inside (but not overly dense).

We also got a side of Field Pea Salad with cucumber & chilis for good measure.  This was made with black-eyed peas that were firm, yet still completely tender.  They were dressed in a tangy vinaigrette that was light and creamy.  The crunch of the cucumbers and red onions kept things bright and fresh.  For dessert, we shared the Blackberry Layer Cake with lime cream cheese.  This was dense, but not overly sweet.  Lime essence was mild, but still present.  There was quite a bit of blackberry seeds which was not appealing, but nothing you can do due to the fruit.  Loved the side of honeycomb as it was crispy and sweet.  Overall, we enjoyed our meal at Pêche as it offered more seafood options as well.

The Good:
- Nice flavours
- Well executed proteins
- Friendly service

The Bad:
- Can get pricey if you order more since the portions are not very big

Parkway Bakery & Tarven

After a delicious and overstuffed oyster po' boy at Mahony's, we were left wanting more.  Although there are many choices for po' boys in New Orleans, we had to narrow it down to 2 places since we were only in Nola for 5 days.  Yes, I realize Mijune ate like every po' boy she could find while she was there IN ONE DAY, but I'm no Mijune.  Hence, Viv and I decided to hit up one of the more popular and oldest spots in Parkway Bakery & Tavern.  We ended up taking Uber after days of walking and walking (and taking the streetcar, which was fun).

Since we were not there on a Monday nor Wednesday, there was no oyster po' boy.  No matter, we decided to go for one of their most popular in the Shrimp Po' Boy dressed.  They weren't shy in stuffing this thing full of perfectly fried shrimp.  These were large, buttery and exhibited a cold-water snap.  The breading on the outside was not as heavy as it looked and was crispy and easy on the grease.  There was more than enough flavor to eat on its own, but a bit of hot sauce really livened it up.  I enjoyed the roll more here at Parkway than Mahony's since it was easier to get through.  Furthermore, the mix of mayo and lettuce did not fall out as easily as the one at Mahony's.  

Viv went for the other popular sandwich here in the Roast Beef Po' Boy dressed.  Didn't matter how we tried to eat it, because everything just kinda squirted out.  There was so much roast beef in this thing, it became something we needed to eat with a fork.  The shredded beef had the consistency of a pot roast where it was tender and almost melted in our mouths without any chewing.  It was bathed in a rich and flavorful gravy that was just salty enough.  Loved the contrast between the soft and saucy beef with the light and crusty roll.  Although everything came out, the roll itself stayed together and did not disintegrate.

For our sides, we had the Fries and Deep Fried Pickles.  Crispy and in a medium size, the fries retained plenty of potato texture inside.  Most, if not all were uniforming crunchy on the outside.  They weren't overly oil and were lightly salted.  The deep fried pickle slices were also quite good.  The breading was the same as the shrimp and was crunchy with plenty of flavor on its own.  Although this didn't look like a tremendous amount of food for 2 people, we didn't finish.  Maybe it was all the days of eating prior or possibly it was just too much food.  Whatever the case, Parkway does the po' boy justice and not for a lot of money either.

The Good:
- Overstuffed and solid po' boys
- Inexpensive
- Food comes out quick

The Bad:
- Lots of seating, but most of it is on the outside where it is plenty hot
- For those without a car, it isn't easily reachable by transit

Toup's Meatery

Here we are again chasing the "Top Chef".  We love the show and yes, it is becoming clear on this trip that we were doing just that.  Although Executive Issac Toups did not win his season of Top Chef, we were impressed with his meat-focused culinary direction.  Let's be honest here too, talented chefs such as him are often behind the 8 ball on a show like Top Chef.  His type of no-excuses big and bold cooking often takes a back seat to the delicate cookery required to win.  Well, we already did that with a visit to Restaurant August.  This time, it was all about the meat and honest food at Toup's Meatery.

Of all things on the menu, the one thing we had to get was the Meatery Board for a reasonable price of $25.  My favourite item was something served on the side being the Cracklings.  They were crunchy, aromatic, well-salted and sinful.  These should be sold as a snack to go!  On the board, the Boudin Ball as it was firmly crispy with a spicy and meaty filling that was also quite smooth.  The Chicken Liver Mousse was on point being silky and creamy with an appealing sweetness spiked with brandy.  I found the Chicken & Pork Sausage to be meaty and juicy with nice hits of lemon and rosemary.  I wasn't a huge fan of the Pastrami as it was chewy.  It was appealingly peppery and salty though.  On the other hand, the Rillons (candied cracklings) were addictive being sweet with a great mouth feel.  The Hog Head Head Cheese was buttery and fatty with a porky gaminess.  Lastly, the Daube Glacé was salty and meaty with some tang from the gelee.

For some inexplicable reason, Viv wanted to try the Bone Marrow with confit beef heart and chicken liver mousse despite already sharing the meatery board.  As if we needed this meal to get any heavier and decadent!  Predictably, the dish was rich and sinful.  Featuring a large bone with plenty of fatty and creamy marrow, it was topped with a silky and gelatinous sauce.  We felt the marrow was oversalted though.  Meaty and tender, the beef heart was not gamy at all.  On the side, we found crostinis topped with the same delicious and smooth chicken liver mousse as found on the board.

With the food we had so far, we could only add one entree, but what an entree it was.  We selected the Double-Cut Pork Chop atop dirty rice and served with a cane syrup gastrique. Oh wow, this was awesome!  The huge pork chop was brined expertly where it was juicy and succulent while cooked perfectly.  It wasn't salty though, which allowed us to taste both the pork and the gastrique.  We liked how the meat was nicely charred on the outside which added nice visuals and smoky caramelization.  The dirty rice was also delicious with the saltiness balanced by the gastrique.  As you can see, the food at Toup's is not light by any stretch of the imagination.  However, this brash, no-excuses cooking is what makes it a must-try in NOLA.

The Good:
- Meat!
- Those cracklings...
- Nice casual atmosphere

The Bad:
- If you don't like heavy food (but what are you doing in NOLA???)
- Some things were salty

Mahony's Po-Boy Shop

Ah yes, the po' boy...  Up to this point, we've had some beignets, BBQ shrimp, gumbo, etouffee and crawfish pie.  But we did not have any po' boys yet.  That was going to change when we took the St. Charles street car out to Mahony's in the Garden District.  Not really on the beaten path nor is it usually regarded as the best (because Parkway has that distinction being the oldest and featured on Triple-D's).  But according to some (including Mijune), it sports one of the best Po' Boys in town specifically The Peacemaker (with bacon and cheese).

Behold, The Peacemaker stuffed with P&J fried oysters, cheese, bacon, lettuce, tomato, pickles and mayo.  This was only the "regular" sized version!  Imagine the large!  It ate as good as it looked with large buttery oysters that were bursting with briny juices.  They were lightly coated and fried where the outside was crispy but not heavy.  Combine that with cheddar cheese and crispy bacon, how could one go wrong???  The fresh veggies kept things light while the pickles added some crunchy zing.  We added drops of hot sauce to put it over the top.  Only thing we would've liked to see was softer bread as everything fell out with each bite.

We also got something that they are not known for in the Shrimp & Grits.  You know what?  It was pretty good despite that fact.  It featured fluffy grits that still retained texture while not being too runny.  It was topped with meaty shrimp that were well-seasoned and naturally sweet and aromatic.  The flavors were appealingly salty, buttery and slightly spicy with the brininess from the shrimp.  However, the smaller pieces of shrimp were on the chewier side (the bigger ones were on point though). 

Our 3rd plate was the Loaded Fries topped with crawfish etouffee.  These well-salted and crispy fries were aggressively sauced with the etouffee and plenty of cheddar cheese.  It was strangely sweet for some reason, but the saltiness of the fries did balance somewhat.  Loved the briny murkiness of the crawfish as it added an Earthiness to the dish.  We would've liked to see some more spice, but again, the hot sauce came to the rescue.  In the end, we found the food in general pretty solid and the po' boy to be on point.  It was worth the trek out there.

The Good:
- Loaded and tasty po' boy
- Solid service

The Bad:
- Things could've been spicier, but that is what hot sauce is for
- Bread was too chewy for me

Morning Call

Now that we had visited the famed Cafe du Monde, it was time to do a comparison test.  The "other" spot for some delicious beignets is Morning Call located in City Park.  You might wonder what the difference could be for fried dough topped with powdered sugar right?   Well, with any form of cooking, including baking and frying, there are many subtleties.  In fact, if not done right, the differences are not subtle at all!  So we headed over to Morning Call the day after right in the morning to try the same 3 things we had at Cafe du Monde.

Let's start with the Beignets first.  These were presented without the powdered sugar.  Rather, we were supplied with a shaker and were able to control the amount.  This was a good idea not only for taste purposes, but also it allowed us to not waste any of it.  When I said subtleties, this would be the case here as the beignets were different, but not in a huge way.  I would say the same applied as Cafe du Monde whereby the beignets were doughy in some spots and airy in others.  Overall, I thought the ones at Morning Call were denser.  Since we could control the sugar, it was less sweet.

As for the Cafe au Lait, there was a considerable difference in my opinion.  I felt that the coffee wasn't as strong nor as impactful.  Hence there was less aromatics going on.  Rather, it was more milky (no problem with that as it was a cafe au lait) going down smooth and silky.  Viv went for the Frozen Coffee which was totally different from Cafe du Monde since it was more like a frapp being icy and sweet.  She liked it, but thought that it was hard to finish due to the sugar content.  In terms of the beignets, it is hard to say if they were better than Cafe du Monde.  This would be purely subjective.  Personally, I liked them more, but not the coffee.

The Good:
- Can control the sugar yourself
- Lovely park setting

The Bad:
- Coffee is so so

Restaurant August

I've never considered myself one to chase restaurants run by the "celebrity-chef".  After all, when the kids were younger, it was not really practical as well (in terms of appropriate food and cost).  But if I look at some of my choices, there have been the several restaurants that I have targeted based on the chef.  This is particularly true when Viv and I go on vacation without the kiddies, such as our visit to Juniper & Ivy in San Diego.  Now that we were in New Orleans sans enfants, we put that into effect by dining at Emeril's.  Next up was John Besh's flagship restaurant, August. 

Viv and I decided to do a la carte rather than the tasting menu as we were already getting full after the second day in NOLA.  They started us off with an Amuse Bouche consisting of garlic, leek and potato soup topped with crispy potato served in a hallowed-out egg.  This was a wonderful little start to the meal with aromatic flavours and different textures.  Nothing was overpowering another where there was balance.  Loved the presentation too.

For our actual starters, Viv had the Potato Crisp P&J Oysters with malt, tarragon and pickle of Covey Rise vegetables.  The oysters were plump with sweet briny juices.  Crispy and light, the potato crisp coating was devoid of grease.  There was a good amount of spice that was not overwhelming while the malt vinegar was impactful in the creamy aioli but was still balanced.  Providing both acidity and a textural contrast, the pickled veggies were appealingly crunchy.  For myself, I had the Spicy Crab Cornmeal Tartlette with basil, burrata and heirloom tomatoes.  Chock full of fluffy sweet crab, the tart was on the wetter side.  It was due to the tomatoes which were plump and tangy.  However, the firm tart shell held everything together.  Loved the combination of the creamy burrata and bright tomato as well as the smoky and salty bacon.  On top, the crunchy cornmeal topping added a nice mouth feel.

For my entree, I decided on the Roasted Triple Tail with black garlic, corn, chanterelle and blue crab.  I found the triple tail to be seared expertly being crispy and well-seasoned while sporting a flaky and barely-cooked interior.  I really enjoyed the silky sweet crab and corn jus as it was flavorful in a natural manner.  The Earthy black garlic added a robust taste to an otherwise light flavor profile.  The aromas and developed flavors were kicked up even more by the chanterelles and chunks of fluffy briny crab.  This was a fairly subtle dish, but it was supremely composed with layers of taste.  Viv opted for the Five-Spiced Breast of Duckling with fig, summer peppers, foie gras and heirloom grits.  We found the duck prepared medium-rare being tender and succulent.  It was nicely seasoned (especially the seared skin), but the skin could've been more rendered.  The buttery foie was accented well by the sweet marmalade while the pickled peppers and onions added a tangy sweetness to the dish.

For dessert (and no, it wasn't our 78th anniversary... LOL), Viv went for the Fior di Latte with dark berries, ricotta, pound cake and aged balsamic.  This was beautifully plated with surprisingly light and airy pound cake which was still buttery and just sweet enough.  The ricotta was rich and creamy, yet a bit too strong on its own.  When combined with the berries, it was more balanced.  However, the berries were only mildly sweet.  The ice cream made up for it though as it was creamy and sweet with the light hint of balsamic.  For myself, I had the Peanut Butter Ice Cream Sandwich.  This was killer with a creamy semifreddo that was aromatic and just sweet enough.  The crispy cookies were a nice textural contrast and were not too sweet.  Loved the dehydrated peanut butter dust as it added another layer of creamy peanutiness.  The creamy chocolate ice cream was rich and did not add any unnecessary extra sweetness to the dessert.  As for celebrity chef restaurants go, we though August lived up to our expectations.  Yes, it was pricey, but with things considered, it wasn't overpriced.

The Good:
- Excellent service
- On point execution
- Classy, yet not pretentious

The Bad:
- On the pricier side, but worth it IMO

Mr. B's Bistro

Sometimes, it may seem like my choice in restaurants might seem odd considering there are better choices to be made.  However, one must factor in convenience as a major determining prerequisite.  This is especially true when kiddies are in the picture.  Well, this time in New Orleans, that wasn't the case.  Rather, we were already in the French Quarter, so it would make sense to eat in the French Quarter.  We realized that many of the spots are tourist traps, but Mr. B's Bistro seemed to have a redeeming quality.  It boasts the "best" BBQ shrimp in the city.  Yes, I realize the risk of such a statement, but we went on a recommendation by Mijune.

We started the meal with some Fried Oysters since we hadn't tried any up until this point (only day 2 though).  These were buttery and barely cooked through which meant there was plenty of briny juices.  The breading was super light and only lightly crispy while being a touch greasy.  We would've preferred for a firmer crunch, but then again, that might've overcooked the oysters.  On the side was a jalapeno tartar sauce which was quite mild and resembled a kicked up thousand islands.  We also got a order of the Seafood Gumbo which they split into 2 portions for us.  It was not heavy at all with smoky and briny elements.  There was a nice balance between the sweetness and saltiness.  We enjoyed the low rumble of spice that lingered to the end.  As for the seafood, everything was on point where it was not overdone.

Onto the main event, the BBQ Shrimp didn't look like much, but in reality, it was extremely tasty.  We liked how they used the entire shrimp shell and all because it kept all of the sweet juices in.  Furthermore, the shells added another level of aroma to the dish.  We did find the shrimp a tad overdone except for the 2 bigger ones.   They were meaty and sweet with penetrated flavours from the rich peppery sauce.  It was appealingly salty with sweetness.  Compared to the one at Emeril's, this one was more balanced.  For myself, I had the Catfish which was coated in crunchy cornmeal.  It was well-seasoned and not greasy at all.  The fish was buttery and soft while being surprisingly not murky-tasting.  The creamy beans and sausage on the side was rather filling, but nice texturally. Overall, we found the things we ordered at Mr. B's to be fairly good.  Sure, the shrimp was the best of the bunch, but there is more than that at Mr. B's.

The Good:
- That BBQ shrimp...
- Outstanding service
- The rest of the food was good

The Bad:
- On the pricier side
- Rather stuffy and proper, but they treated us well despite not dressing up

Cafe du Monde (French Quarter)

Generally, when some things start off small and gain a following, it will inevitably become popular and go mainstream.  Sometimes it completely takes off due to social media, TV and the sort.  I'm not sure if Cafe du Monde fits into this category completely, but it certainly hasn't hurt that it has been in all forms of media including the movie Chef.  It is almost placed on a pedestal being the holy grail of beignets in New Orleans.  For myself, it has been on my bucket list since I can remember and it was quite exciting to finally visit the famed coffee shop that serves fried dough doused with enough powdered sugar to make Tony Montana proud.

Viv and I decided to work off our calories by walking from out hotel to the French Quarter (I'm sure that didn't burn off much).  Our first stop was Cafe du Monde for some breakfast (yes a real healthy one).  We went for 2 orders of the Beignets and waited in large outdoor seating area.  These arrived with mounds of powdered sugar that wasn't as sweet as it looked.  In fact, we had to mop up the sugar from the plate with the beignet as we ate.  About that beignet, it was a bit dense in some spots but also light with little airy pockets strewn here and there.  Was it amazing?  No, but it was good nonetheless and we finally fulfilled another bucket-list item.

For myself, the real draw was the Cafe au Lait as it was aromatic and went down smooth.  The half and half of hot milk and coffee was a nice balance where the strong coffee was present without being too bitter nor was the drink too milky.  It was the perfect compliment to the beignet as the sweetness of the sugar was counteracted by the slight bitterness.  The addition of roasted chicory added another layer of flavour that was subtle yet chocolatey.  Viv had the Iced Coffee since it was already hot in the morning and it was fine for what it was.  I felt that the hot coffee activated the aromatics while the cold coffee was just a beverage.  So did Cafe du Monde live up to the astronomical expectations?  Probably not, but was still fun to visit anyways.

The Good:
- Iconic
- Great coffee
- Open 24 hours

The Bad:
- Beignets were "okay"