Ma Poule Mouillée

Seeing how a bunch of non-toasted bagels from St. Viateur wouldn't necessarily satisfy us, we made the short drive over to Ma Poule Mouillée.  Of course there was a lineup and we stayed the course for 45 minutes...  We needed to see if this was better than Romados down the street.  Not sure why we didn't visit the place the last time we were here because it is across the street from La Banquise.

Anyways, we did finally get to the counter and we ordered the Louis Cyr (1/2 Chicken) with roast potatoes.  You can choose fries instead and this came with a side salad too.  We opted for the spicy and it was mild in our opinion.  As for the chicken it was not as juicy as we were expecting.  Rather, the breast was a bit dry and really need the sauce to give it moisture and flavour.  The dark meat was predictably better.  As for the potatoes, they were excellent.  Creamy and soft inside.

To get a variety of things, I also ordered the Little Talbot which was a chicken sandwich in a Portuguese bun.  Due to the dry breast meat, the sammie ate as such.  I asked for spicy and the sauce helped a bit but again, it wasn't that hot.  I guess I should've asked for more.  The side of fresh cut fries were excellent.  Crispy with plenty of potato goodness inside.

Okay, the real reason we were here was for the Poutine with chicken, São Jorge cheese and chorizo.  OMG, this was freakin' delicious and life-changing.  With all that savoury and rich gravy, the chicken was suddenly reborn.  Look at all that cheese!  It was stringy and completely covered the fries.  The chorizo added meatiness as well as a good kick.  Got everything in one bite and my mouth was very happy.

We also added one each of the Coconut and Portuguese Tarts for some sweets at the end.  I thought the Portuguese tart was quite good.  Loved the flaky and light tart shell and the silky custard filling.  It wasn't too sweet and that worked for me.  However, the coconut tart was definitely sweeter and aromatic from the coconut.  Overall, I found the chicken a letdown especially a place that promises juicy chicken.  However, that poutine is high-level.  I would come back for that.

The Good:

- Oh that poutine!

- Loved the roast potatoes and fries

- Tarts are quite good

The Bad:

- The actual chicken, especially the white meat, is not juicy

- Spicy could be spicier

St-Viateur Bagel

Even though our last visit to Montreal was 4 days long, we never made it out to the iconic St-Viateur Bagel.  Well, this time around, we would ensure to do that obligatory visit.  Although there are several locations, we only had the original one on Rue Saint Viateur on our minds.  Sure, there was the usual lineup and hey, it could all be the touristy thing to do, but we were hoping for some good bagels!  We ended up with a half-dozen where we brought most of it home with us on the plane.

We really didn't want to get the plain bagel since it was well...  too plain.  Rather, for our baseline, we had the Rosemary and Sea Salt.  So without the benefit of a toaster, trying to eat this bagel cold wasn't our preference.  I'm sure so purists will say that it is good eaten that way and yada yada yada.  Well, it was pretty dense, chewy and cold.  In terms of flavour, loved the earthy woodiness of the rosemary and also the bursts of saltiness.

Thankfully, this was the only bagel we ate without toasting it.  We ended up bringing the other 5 home to Vancouver.  By then, they were 3-day-old bagels and you know what?  By toasting them, they turned out fantastic!  They crisped up well and had a solid, yet not too firm crunch.  This gave way to a warm and appealingly chewy inside.  These bagels tasted great even without cream cheese.  But we did use cream cheese!  This All-Dressed bagel was a favourite since they didn't skimp on the ingredients.

The same could be said about the Onion bagel because there was no shortage of caramelized onion on the outside.  Hence, the flavour of onion was strong with this one.  It was aromatic and sweet with some sharpness at the tail end of the flavour profile.  Also, there was the unmistakable onion texture with every bite.  Once again, this toasted up really well and the heat helped activate the onion as a result.

Onto the fruitier bagels, we tried the classic Cinnamon & Raisin.  There was definitely a noticeable sweet cinnamon kick while only certain parts of the bagel had raisins.  I guess it just was the luck of the draw.  However, when we did get raisins, the sweetness was nice and of course was a perfect compliment to the cinnamon.  Cream cheese naturally went well with this bagel.

Something I really wanted to try was the Apple Maple even though Viv was a bit skeptical.  She often associates anything maple with being too sweet.  Well, this is a bagel and I knew they wouldn't make it taste like dessert.  That they didn't where the sweetness was restrained.  There was still the maple essence without the sugariness.  Little nuggets of apple were strewn throughout and provided pops of tangy sweetness. 

Lastly, we had the Blueberry, which was predictably one of the most mild-tasting bagels.  Blueberry is not a very strong flavour, even though it is easily identifiable.  This was no exception where the blueberry was definitely there, but it didn't exactly make the bagel that sweet.  So overall, we enjoyed our toasted bagels from St-Viateur and am considering ordering some to be sent to us.

The Good:

- Dense like it should be and toasted up great

- Lots of flavours and we enjoyed all of them

- Considering how expensive things are these days, the bagels were reasonably-priced

The Bad:

- Well of course the lineup, but it is part of the fun right?

- A little chaotic at the counter

- You get them cold at this location, so strictly to go and toast them later

Joe Beef

Fresh off a good meal at Mon Lapin, we were looking forward to our reservation at Joe Beef.  Last time we were in Montreal, we had such a big group and so many kids, it was not feasible to dine there.  Mind you, we still made it out Au Pied de Cochon...  We made the mistake of attempting to walk from our Downtown hotel to the restaurant and it was a bit of an adventure.  We ended up taking an Uber back instead.  But while we were at Joe Beef, we had a heck of a time.  The food was excellent!

To begin, we had something seemingly so simple but ultimately it was super delicious.  The Aidi "Joe Beef" featured amazingly fresh crudites from their own garden.  It was served with this aioli that was akin to a green goddess dressing.  It was absolutely delicious and the crunch and sweetness from the wonderful veggies was mind-blowing.  Imagine that, we were blown away by raw vegetables (except for the potatoes)!

Next, we had the Smoked Trout with a buckwheat crêpe and homemade cheese.  Again, this looked really simple, but the execution was flawless.  The trout was buttery and soft with a balanced smokiness and saltiness.  Thin, a bit robust, but ultimately delicate, the crêpe did not overwhelm the delicate fish.  Creamy and smooth with herbs, the cheese complimented the trout with the addition of briny ikura and fresh dill.

Now if you thought the last 2 appies seemed simple, the next consisted of Fine Ham with compressed melon and wine gelée.  This was essentially prosciutto and melon but completely elevated.  Beyond the salty and buttery ham, the melon squares provided sweetness and moisture.  The flavours were quite concentrated.  Adding in the gelée, it was as if we were drinking some wine to go with our charcuterie.

Last appie was the Grilled Octopus in a heavily concentrated bouillabaisse sauce.  This was amazing where the reduced sauce packed all of the seafoody goodness normally found in a bouillabaisse but 10 times more potent.  It was rich and smooth with enhanced brininess, sweetness and aroma.  This complemented the tender octopus tentacle very well.  We also found some braised and seared fennel as well as potato on the plate.

Onto the mains, we couldn't possibly dine at Joe Beef and not order the Lobster Spaghetti???  Well we did the right thing and it was the proper decision.  This was super rich with plenty of heavy cream spiked with strong lobster essence.  Hence all of the briny sweetness came through.  The spaghetti itself was perfectly al dente where it soaked up all of the lobster cream.  About that half lobster, it was prepared well with a juicy and bouncy texture.  

Presented atop some potatoes gratin, the large Seared Duck Breast was prepared medium.  This was perfect as the meat was still juicy while being tender and meaty.  The skin was generally well-rendered and had some crispiness.  The whole thing was dressed in a luxurious cherry sauce that was silky, tart and sweet.  Such classic flavours and ingredients, but done completely right.

Next, we had the Hanger Steak prepared medium-rare (closer to rare, just how I like it).  Being a hanger steak (as it hangs over the diaphragm), it is flavourful and beefy.  That it was and it sported an even sear on both sides.  It was well-seasoned and tasted great on its own, but the jus underneath was so rich and meaty, it needed to be enjoyed.  However, there was also a house-made fruity steak sauce on the side.  That elevated the meat even more so with a sweet tanginess.

The surprise dish was the Halibut served on top of some ratatouille and smothered in tomato butter.  Wow, just wow, that ratatouille made us feel like that restaurant critic in the movie Ratatouille.  Almost life-changing.  The vegetables were perfectly tender yet not mushy while the flavours were natural, bright and delicious.  Oh and the halibut was flaky and moist too.  That tomato butter was sinfully silky with the essence of tomato.

We cannot forget some of the sides including the Bread and Frites.  These buns were quite good where they were somewhere between dense and fluffy.  However, the main event here was the very good butter.  It was creamy and extremely spreadable while having the right saltiness.  Those frites were pretty solid being crispy with a creamy potato centre.  Of course it was served with a side of aioli.  

By now, we were completely stuffed due to the generous portion sizes and heaviness of the dishes.  Hence, we only got the Éclair to share (it rhymes!).  This was also huge and very well executed with light choux pastry that had a nice crispiness.  It was filled with ice cream and topped with plenty of chocolate sauce.  Decadent.  Okay, gotta say this straight-up - the meal at Joe Beef was fantastic!  Not only was the execution on point, the flavours were purposeful and impactful.  Really no-nonsense food prepared right for the purpose of being delicious.  Sure, prices aren't cheap, but it was worth every penny.

The Good:

- No-nonsense food that is just delicious with impactful flavours

- No-nonsense, but on point service

- Lively environment

The Bad:

- Dining room gets a bit stuffy and warm

- Washroom situation is not the best

Schwartz's Deli

Okay, we've been to Schwartz's Deli before on our last visit to Montreal, but we didn't dine in due to the long lineup.  Hence, we didn't get the "true" experience and to give it a fair shake, we returned to do it right.  Fortunately for us, there was not much of a lineup (as you can see in the picture).  I've always held the thought that Snowden Deli is better but we ate in there and this was the way to settle the comparison.

So without further ado, let's get straight to the Montreal Smoked Meat Sandwich.  It was fairly good size with enough meat to satisfy without being a monstrosity.  It was a combination of fatty brisket and the flat.  There was a background level of smokiness and the meat was just salty enough.  It ate tender and didn't require much chewing.  As for the rye bread, it was pretty robust and held things together nicely.  Definitely solid and is still one of the best.

This time around, I had to get something different, so we went for the Smoked Chicken and Montreal Smoked Meat Combo.  It also included fries on the side.  Well, I regret ordering the chicken because it was super dry and not all that fun to eat.  I mean the flavour was good with smoky pepperiness, but the meat, especially the breast, was practically inedible.  As for the sliced smoked meat, it was excellent.  Tender, moist and flavourful. 

About those Fries, they were fresh cut and fried up beautifully.  They really piled it onto the plate and in reality, it is hard to finish by yourself.  Best to share with a friend (or the random stranger sitting beside you).  They were uniformly crispy and had a nice attractive colour.  Inside, the creamy potato was warm and appealing. These were definitely delicious but they would be better served in a poutine...

Yes, we did get the Smoked Meat Poutine too (same as last time) and it was fantastic.  Unlike last time, we ate this fresh and it made a huge difference as the fries were still crispy in some spots.  The hot gravy had a nice viscosity and was not overly salty.  That was a good thing as the ample amount of chopped smoke meat added all the flavour this dish needed.  Underneath, we found a bevy of cheese curds that were partly melted.  We still had some whole pieces that were at their squeaky best.  Well, I gotta say that Schwartz's still has game and their smoked meat is good as well as their poutine.  Can't say the same for the chicken, but that isn't the main draw here.  There are other places to get smoked meat in Montreal and some of them maybe arguably better, but if you are looking for an iconic place, Schwartz's is it.

The Good:

- Excellent smoked meat

- That poutine!

- It has history and the name

The Bad:

- You'll have to lineup for it

- Seating isn't the most comfortable (part of the charm right?)

Crew Collective & Cafe

I'll admit that I'm not a coffee expert.  I'm only an occasional coffee drinker and even with that, I much prefer more watered down versions.  However, I know what I like and don't like, so that counts for something right?  It helps Viv is a coffee drinker and Costanza is our resident coffee expert.  This bode well for us as he suggested we hit up Crew Collective & Coffee down in Old Montreal.  Other than the coffee, the place is known for its location in an old cathedral-style bank building complete with chandeliers and ornate dome ceilings.  The counter is actually the bank teller counters!  They have WeWork spaces for people to use as well (do not go use that space if you are just chilling with your coffee!).

We lined up with the rest of the patrons and waited until it was our turn.  Make sure you are not in a rush!   In addition to our coffee, we got some pastries including the Cheese Croissant.  This "escargot"-type pastry consisted of a swirl of puff pastry.  It was ultimately flaky and shattered when torn apart.  It was marginally cheesy though and could've used more of it.  It was buttery and had discernible layers.

Staying with puff pastry not quite the same, we had the Double-Baked Almond Croissant.  Normally, these can be a bit denser and harder, which this one was.  However, it was actually rather light in comparison to other versions.  It was crunchy and shattered upon biting into it and the buttery and sweet almond filling was plentiful and evenly distributed.  Pretty good for a coffee house that isn't necessarily a patisserie.

Our last item was also our favourite in the Kouign Amann.  Well, it was quite obvious from the first bite that this thing meant business.  It was super buttery and rich while also being sweet.  There was discernible layers initially on the outside, but as we bit further into it, it just became a buttery sweet homogeneous pastry.  Nothing wrong with that as it went very well with our coffees.  We just needed to walk it off.

So onto the coffees, we had a Latte, Americano and a Iced Mocha.  I would say that their coffees are pretty good with a definitely darker and rich flavour, possibly bordering on a bit bitter for some people.  Yet, it was quite smooth in my opinion.  Costanza, who is our resident coffee expert, did say it was good but not great.  However, the real draw is the old bank building.  It is gorgeous and a great place to grab a drink and pastry.

The Good:

- Beautiful building

- Decent pastries

- Good coffee

The Bad:

- A bit slow with only one machine and a long line-up

- Good coffee, but not great

Mon Lapin

So when you are named the #1 restaurant in Canada according to Canada's 100 Best, there are some pretty high expectations.  Well, shortly after this was announced, I made sure to get a reservation as soon as I was able.  We were going to be in Montreal anyways and of course I was going to see for myself what all the fuss is about this wine bar that has transformed into something bigger, literally and figuratively (restaurant has gotten bigger and their menu has leveled-up).

Seeing how it was a nice day and not too hot, we decided to sit outside in their quaint patio.  We ordered a good selection of items including the Razor Clams with fava beans and ham.  Simple, yet elegant, this dish was all about pure flavours.  We had the sweetness of the clams nicely accented by the mild saltiness of the ham.  Beyond the colour, the fava beans provided an earthy sweetness.  We doubled-up on this dish since it would usually only come with 2 servings.

My favourite dish was the Radish Parfait with chicken liver mousse and a supplement of Fried Chicken Oysters.  Oh look at those beautiful fresh-from-the-farm radishes!  They were so crunchy, bright and earthy with a bite.  Dipped into the creamy, sweet and airy mousse, it was divine.  Let's not forget about the chicken oysters as they were crunchy on the outside while revealing the unmistakable tender juicy little nuggets.

Sure, the next item was not the sexiest thing we had, but who wouldn't want some Bâtard with "bon beurre" (good butter) and La Villana EVOO?  Well, the bread was fantastic with a crust exterior giving way to soft chewy insides.  That butter was really good being creamy and nutty with enough saltiness.  The star was the EVOO as it was super flavourful with hints of pepperiness and bitterness.

Moving on, we had the Scallop Crudo with rhubarb water, sorrel and buckwheat butter.  This was simplicity at its best since there was not much in the way of overpowering items in the dish.  This let the sweetness of the buttery scallops be the highlight.  Light acidity, sweetness and nuttiness complimented the scallops.  This was a truly a refreshing dish that was perfect for a summer day.

Now for something a bit different, we had the Le Croque Pétoncle.  This reminded me somewhat of Chinese shrimp toast, but with scallop mousse instead of shrimp mousse.  This was well-prepared with evenly toasted buttery bread with spongy sweet scallop mousse.  These ate quite well and were a textural delight.  This was served with a classic rouille in the middle that added an aromatic creaminess.  Once again, this was a double-order of this dish.

Yep, we had to double-up our order of the Gnudi di Ricotta as well since we all wanted one of everything.  So this consisted of ricotta gnudi with deceptively similar balls of white turnip and garnished with turnip leaves.  The dish was finished in a very green pesto, so combined with the leaves, this was basically monotone.  It didn't taste that way though as the creaminess of the gnudi came through and it was seasoned enough to stand on its own.  However, the pesto was cheesy, nutty and herbaceous.

Hidden underneath a slice of mortadella (I moved it so we could see underneath), the Whelks were finished with fennel and herbs.  Nothing too complex about this dish as the whelks were the star being briny and sweet.  Texturally, they were like bigger clams and had a tender chew to them.  Loved the tender fennel as it provided classic licorice notes and the mortadella added some saltiness.

One of the most unique preparations was the Sourdough-Crusted Chicken (yes with foot still attached) with potatoes, Manila clams and yellow wine.  Well that crust was amazing with a firm crunchiness that gave way to super tender and juicy meat (even the breast).  Yep, I ate the chicken foot too...  The wine sauce was slightly briny due to the clams and was savoury with some sweetness.  Those potatoes were tender and creamy in the middle.

Our final savoury dish was the Aged Pork with crispy pig ears, pork fat morels and eel sauce.  That fatty pork was cooked perfectly with just a touch of pink.  Hence it was tender and juicy with a heightened "porkiness".  Those earthy and luscious morels were complimented the pork beautifully. Can't forget about those crispy pig ears!  They were gelatinous, fatty and yes, crispy.

For dessert, we shared the Pannacotta with Quebec strawberries, elderberry gelee and elderberry flowers.  This was super refreshing, light and full of floral notes.  The pannacotta itself was perfect as it was creamy and fully set without being too stiff.  This was a light and fruity finish to a solid meal.  Mon Lapin has not only delicious share plates, their wine list is extensive.  Great place to share a bottle or 2 or 3 while dining on small plates.  The question is it #1 in Canada?  Personally I would say no because I like Published on Main in Vancouver more, but I can't deny that Mon Lapin is a pretty good too.

The Good:

- Fresh and delicious share plates

- Extensive wine list

- Knowledgeable and professional staff

The Bad:

- Main dining room can be warm

- Your bill can get up there if you are hungry and thirsty

Snowdon Deli

Okay, I admit it.  During this trip, I've been guilty of playing tourist and have been to some less-than-stellar places to eat due to it.  However, I don't make any apologies as it is my trip and really, I can do whatever I want!  But it is true that the visit to Carnegie (now closed) yielded predictably sub-par results for far too much money.  Also, in Montreal, we've been to Dunn's and Schwartz's which are both popular with the tourists.  So on our last day before returning home, Viv and I decided to trek all-the-way-out to Snowdon Deli, which is more of a local eatery.

Some have argued that it is the place for smoked meat, even better than Schwartz's, Lester's and Rueben's.  Well, we were going to be the judges of that starting with the hot Smoked Meat Sandwich.  I asked for medium and it was tender, fatty and aromatic.  I found that it was soft, but still retained a meatiness while being not overly salted or peppery.  For me, this was better than any smoked meat I've had so far.  As part of my combo, I also had a bowl of Matzo Ball Soup which was also very good.  The chicken soup portion was pretty typical, but I enjoyed how it was not overseasoned where I could taste actual chicken.  However, the best part was the matzo ball as it was fluffy and soft with a springiness.  It was so good, I had to get another just for my son.

Of course he couldn't subsist on soup alone, so he got the Hot Beef Brisket with gravy and a side of fries.  Okay, I hate to compare, especially since Carnegie is in NYC and Snowdon is in Montreal (and this one was hot as opposed to cold), but this was far superior.  The meat was moist (due to the salty onion gravy) and melt-in-his-mouth tender.  He loved every bite, which were few because he completely devoured.  The side of fries was absolutely massive where it was practically falling off the plate.  These were on point being crispy while still retaining some tender potato texture inside.  We got an order of Latkas as well which were served with sour cream and apple sauce.  As much as I enjoyed the golden brown crispiness of the outside, they were a bit denser than what I generally enjoy.

Viv ended up sharing a Smoked Turkey Sandwich with our daughter and although it wasn't the sexiest thing to order, it was solid.  The meat was sliced thin being slightly smoky, tender and lightly salty. There was enough of it to achieve balance with the medium-firm rye.  I ended up getting one last item with the Full Strip of Karnatzel.  For those who are unfamiliar, this dried beef sausage is as much of a Jewish deli experience as smoked meat.  I found this one to be really good with an appealing firmness and packed with enough flavour to warrant the slices of rye.  There was a light pepperiness and definite saltiness that was on point. As much as everything food is subjective, for me at least, Snowdon was my best deli experience of the trip by a long shot.  Totally worth the trip out there.

The Good:
- Not that touristy
- Solid eats
- Well-priced

The Bad:
- Service gets very sparse as it gets busier
- Need to make a trip out there if you are a tourist