Mamie Taylor's

The gentrification of Chinatown has been a hot topic in the past few years for good reason.  The once bustling array of grocery stores and fresh seafood shops are now practically empty as many patrons have gone to T&T, Richmond or their local markets.  In their place, a variety of establishments have set up shop, creating their own brand of hipster vibe.  Even the Chinatown Night Market is no more as of this year.  After visits to The Union and The London Pub, we decided to hit up Mamie Taylor's after our softball game at Strathcona Park.

If I was to tell someone that they could find Southern cooking in Chinatown even 10 years ago, it would've ended up in laughter.  But not anymore...  Milhouse, Miss Y and I ended up sharing the Cornbread & Biscuit served with jalapeno bourbon butter.  I found the biscuit to be dry and crumbly where it really needed the sweet butter.  However, Bear (who had his own order) disagreed and thought that it was just right.  For me, I preferred the corn bread as it was moist and sweet.  To feel a bit better about the impending heavy meal, we got the Brussel Sprout Salad.  We liked the presentation as it was piled high with a rainbow of colours.  There was an appealing crunch that went with the plethora of creamy and spicy horseradish ranch dressing.  There seemed to be more of everything else other than the brussel sprouts though.

Onto one of the more interesting items, we tried the Turducken scotch egg with turkey and duck sausage, tomatillo sauce and garlic mayo.  Unlike many versions of scotch eggs, this one was practically perfect as the it was buttery soft with a slightly runny centre.  It was encased in a meaty, while not greasy, sausage.  The tart tomatillo underneath added a certain brightness that balanced the heaviness of the egg.  Much to our delight, they had Fried Green Tomatoes on the menu.  It was battered in a Parmesan crust accompanied by anchovy aioli and pine nuts.  This was a well-executed dish as the green tomatoes were firm (as red tomatoes would become a wet mess) with a crunchy browned exterior.  The spicy and salty aioli went well with the tart tomatoes as it added a creaminess.

Off to some bigger items, we tried the Shrimp & Grits with spicy tomato, roasted okra, chorizo and bottarga.  Although the grits were somewhat lumpy, I still enjoyed it since the flavours were on point.  The combination of the spiciness of the chorizo, sweetness of the shrimp, saltiness of the bottarga and acidity of the tomato created a flavour party.  As for the texture of the shrimp, it was meaty with a light snap.  This was a result of properly cooking them just to the point of doneness.  Of course we couldn't get out of there without trying the Fried Chicken with buttermilk biscuit, grilled corn, pickled peach baby kale salad and gravy. We found the breast meat to be relatively moist while the drumstick to be juicier (since it was dark meat).  The skin was rendered where there was a definite crunch.  The chicken and batter itself was not aggressively seasoned, but the balanced gravy (with a touch of booze) made up for it.

Judes went for the other dish we were contemplating in the Pozole Blanco consisting of pork belly, crackling, avocado, radish, hominy grits & chicken consume.  Surprisingly, the star of the show was the consume as it was super flavourful.  The pork belly was no slouch either being moist with a crispy skin.  The cracklings didn't hurt things as they were light and crispy.  For dessert, Bear did the honours in ordering the Deep Fried Apple stuffed with vanilla ice cream and coated with a rice crispy crust atop milk caramel.  A spattering of diced Granny Smith and raisins completed the dish.  We all gave it a try and universally liked it.  The soft apple gave way to "still frozen" ice cream which was accented by the sweetness of the caramel and raisins.  You know what?  We were glad to have persevered in trying out Mamie Taylor's, even though it was closed the last time.  Turns out, the food is both interesting and pretty good.

The Good:
- Something different
- Generally solid eats
- Nice vibe

The Bad:
- Well, it ain't health food (we didn't care!)
- Biscuits could be less dry (but Bear seemed to like them)

Teapot Bubble Tea & Noodle House

Often, good food and great service can only go so far.  A great location can make or break a restaurant or any business really.  Case-in-point, Teapot Bubble Tea & Noodle House opened up where Pho Golden used to be (and that lasted only a few months).  Before that, it was a Thai/Italian joint (yes, really) and before that, it was Italian.  None of these places worked for various reasons, but there was one constant - the hidden location not really visible from Nordel Way nor Scott Road.  I was able to sample some items from the new place on the house thanks to Bookworm.

We ended up trying the standard being the Pho Dac Biet.  With a clean broth that was MSG-free, the flavours were predictably mild. I really didn't get a whole lot of distinctive flavours, but there was an appealing sweetness.  The noodles were plentiful and al dente while the meats were a bit rustic-looking but sufficiently tender.  Arriving on a large plate, the Sate Beef with rice noodle salad was a substantial portion.  The beef was generally tender with some chewy portions.  It was tossed in a sweet and salty sauce that was peanutty.  When combined with all of the other ingredients, there was plenty of textures to go with the soft noodles.

Since 2 dishes was hardly representative of the menu, I returned on another day on my own dime. Looking overly dark and greasy, the Spring Rolls were better than their appearance.  Despite the use of wheat wrapper rather than rice, the exterior was crunchy.  Looking past the greasiness, the filling was actually quite good being moist and flavourful.  For my main, I had the Lemongrass Pork Chop and Chicken on Rice.  I wasn't a huge fan of the pork chop as it was super thin which was subsequently dry and hard.  It did taste good though.  The chicken was much better being well-charred, flavourful and tender.  Ultimately, whether the food is good or not (in this case, it is just okay), the location of the restaurant will ultimately decide its fate.

The Good:
- Large portions
- Reasonably-priced

The Bad:
- Food is a bit hit and miss
- Location is a problem

Au Wing Kee

With the impending arrival of his first child, Polka King has decided to milk all the free time he has left.  Hence, his sudden re-introduction back into the blog.  For awhile there, it was almost as if he mysteriously disappeared, only to be re-casted with another person posing as Polka King.  Luckily for us, we didn't have to introduce an evil twin or explain his long disappearance (yes, I used to watch soap operas...). 

Although it would be hard-pressed to compete with places in Richmond, the Wonton Noodles were solid nonetheless.  I found the broth to mild with some aromatics.  The wonton noodles were al dente with a nice elastic chew.  Comprised mostly of whole crunchy shrimp, the wontons were good with a nice hit of sesame oil.  They were on the smaller side though.  As for my side (I always get a side), the Tripe was not overly gamy, but not overly flavourful either.  It was a bit pale and on the chewier side.  This was a fairly large portion.

Milhouse ordered the Fook Chow Fried Rice and it was a massive.  The fried rice base was the beneficiary of good wok heat where it was slightly dry and chewy.  The seafood sauce on top was on point as it had a nice silky consistency and was seasoned just enough.  The seafood was barely cooked with buttery scallops and crunchy shrimp.  Lionel Hutz had the Brisket with Rice Noodles and it was also very large.  The brisket was very well executed as it was tender and still moist while not difficult to chew.  The sauce was flavourful and thick.

Emilicious had the Preserved Egg and Salted Pork Congee with a Salty Donut on the side. Polka King had the Sliced Fish Congee (not pictured because white on white was not really all that interesting).  Although not super thick, the congee broth was not watery, but trended towards that at the end.  It was seasoned enough while the ingredients were sufficient.  The Salty Donut was not good though being really over-fried and dense.  Yet, the food in general was decent enough and decently priced for Burnaby.

The Good:
- Decent eats
- Good portion size
- Open late

The Bad:
- Restaurant could use a makeover
- ...and a good cleaning

Benss Cafe

Are there any restaurants that you've been meaning to try for awhile and every time you try, they are either too busy or closed randomly?  Well for myself, that particular restaurant is Malay Curry House.  For the 3rd time, it was an epic fail since they were closed once again for the long weekend (last time, it was Summer holidays).  Hey, I don't blame them since everyone deserves a vacation, but it doesn't do much for my food adventures.  Furthermore, with Costanza, Elaine and the kiddies joining us, we had to choose a backup plan quick.  So we ended up heading over to Benss Cafe on Victoria instead.

Interestingly, despite being a "Hong Kong-style cafe", their menu includes hot pot rice much like The One Spot down the road and build-you-own-noodle much like the somewhat nearby Deer Garden on Fraser.  Can one place do it all?  To test this theory, we started with Vermicelli in Laksa Broth with chive dumplings and beef brisket.  This was a fairly mild and watery version where it was more coconutty than fragrant and spicy.  The noodles were cooked right while the brisket was fatty and decently tender.  The dumplings were a bit doughy but okay.  We also got an Udon in Original Fish Broth with fish tofu and luncheon meat (the kids wanted it).  Well, the broth was pretty tasteless and completely lacking in body.  I wouldn't recommend anyone ordering this. We also got 2 sides consisting of Fried Chicken Wings and Fried Pork Chop.  These were deep-fried properly being crisp on the outside.  However, the wings were a little dry compared to the fairly moist pork chop.  Both were seasoned enough with garlic, chilis and the very apparent MSG.

Onto their other "specialty" we got one each of the Sparerib Hot Pot Rice and Chinese Sausage & Preserved Meat Hot Pot Rice.  Compared with the soups, these were much more pleasing.  Since the spareribs were more wet, the rice in that hot pot wasn't as chewy.  However, there was still a decent rice crust which was not burnt or too hard to eat.  There was plenty of flavourful spareribs which were easy to chew while exhibiting some bounce texture.  For the "Lap Mei Fan", the rice was much nuttier and chewier (with the help of the fat from the sausage).  The rice crust was even more crunchy here due to the fat as well.

Moving to a staple of HK-style cafes, we had the 3-Item Meal.  But first, it came with a choice of Borscht or Cream of Corn & Chicken.  I had the cream soup and it was a fairly large steaming hot bowl.  Although loaded with sweet corn and chunks of chicken, the soup itself was rather bland.  Of course it was more starch-thickened than creamy, which didn't add much flavour as well.  For our 3 proteins, we chose Chicken Steak, Fried Pork Cutlet and Beef Short Ribs with a side of spaghetti and black pepper sauce.  The best way to describe this dish would be "home-style" because everything lacked finesse.  The chicken steak was not really all that juicy while the skin was not crispy.  The pork cutlet was crunchy, but lacking in flavour while the short rib was too chewy and missing any sear.  As for the sauce, it had no impact.

Lastly, we tried the BBQ Duck & Preserved Vegetable Vermicelli. As with many of the other dishes, this was not very tasty.  Considering the ingredients, it was a bit strange to taste barely anything other than the onions.  Beyond that, the noodles were not overcooked while the amount of duck was fair.  Overall, as you can probably guess, the food at Benss Cafe is average at best.  Nothing was particularly terrible, yet at the same time, the food didn't elicit any feelings of a return visit either.

The Good:
- Decent portions
- Okay service
- Lots of choice

The Bad:
- Food lacks finesse
- Flavours are a bit off

Le Vol au Vent

There is no question that I will travel for food.  But hey, one must get out of their comfort zone every now and then right?  I hear the usual moans and groans when I suggest we eat in the 'burbs.  Geez, it's not like I'm asking people to head to a foreign country for eats. So whenever I get a chance, I take it upon myself to make the journey in search of good eats.  Hence, when it was time to take my mom out for her birthday, I made it a point to resist going into Downtown Vancouver.  Rather, we made the trek out to White Rock for some French at Le Vol au Vent.

This little bistro is a mom n' pop operation which somewhat resembles a smaller version of La Regalade out in West Van.  They started us off with an Amuse Bouche consisting of chicken liver pate on bread.  Silky smooth and buttery with a hint of cognac, the liver pate was sweet and mildly salted.  For me, I really wished that the bread was either softer or crunchier rather than being hard and chewy.  Our first appie was somewhat on the same theme being the Rillettes de Canard (Duck Pate) served with gherkins and olives.  The texture was a good combination of smooth elements mixed in with the meatiness of the duck.  It was fairly mild with a natural duck flavour accented by a good amount of pepper.

Next up, we had the Calamari sauteed with olive oil and garlic.  Sizzling on a hot plate, the tender squid was battered in a rustic fashion (which means it was not uniformly in this case).  Hence, there was alternating textures of just squid combined with bites of crunchiness from the nuggets of batter.  If it weren't for the lemon wedges, the dish was would've been lacking in impact since it was a bit underseasoned.  We tried to entice the kids into trying the Escargots a la Perigourdine to no avail.  Even the ample butter and garlic didn't work since it was quite obvious what these were.  Hey we liked them as they were tender and not rubbery.  And as mentioned, the ample flavour from the garlic, herbs and butter didn't hurt things.

My mom decided to try the Lobster Bisque which was a whole lot different than what she has been used to.  Rather than a rich and creamy concoction, this one was quite thin and very peppery.  Hence, the lobster essence was somewhat lost.  On the other hand, I could definitely get some cognac at the finish of each spoonful.  For her main, she went for the Carre D'agneau Roti Garlic and Rosemary (Rack of Lamb).  This was nicely prepared where the meat was medium-rare (closer to the medium side) and super moist.  It was crusted in rosemary and garlic which was evident in every bite.  She actually got the last order as the table beside us found out.  Good to see they keep things fresh.

Viv and I decided to share the Paella for 2 since we knew the kiddies would be game as well.  Now if this made you wonder why we ordered a Spanish (particularly Valencian) dish at a French restaurant...  Relax, the French do this dish too, but unlike traditional Valencian paella, there is a mix of meat and seafood.  The one we tried consisted of pork ribs, chicken drumstick, chorizo, scallops, clams, mussels and shrimp.  All the proteins were on point except for the scallops as they were rubbery.  As for the rice, it was chewy, yet moist exhibiting a mild spice and light saffron.  Most importantly, there was a nice burnt crust on the bottom.  Prior and during our meal, the kids were served up 2 complimentary servings of Frites.  As you can see, they devoured it before I could get a good picture.  They were crunchy and light (almost like shoestring fries).

My dad started with the French Onion Soup and it was fairly light as well as maintaining a rich sweet onion flavour.  It wasn't salty, which afflicts many versions of this soup.  With a dark colour, there was definitely depth as well.  Finishing it off, there was a nice layer of melted gruyere atop the crouton. For his main, he had the Bouillabaisse (Seafood Stew) complete with the same seafood found in our paella except with the addition of fish.  The seafood was not overcooked while the broth was like a water-down version of the lobster bisque.  Hence, there was similar flavours with the addition of more white wine.  Not bad while not extraordinary either.

We decided to share 2 desserts from their impressive counter top display (much like La Regalade). Of course, I predictably chose the Lemon Tart.  It featured a softer-style crust which somewhat blended into the same texture as the lemon curd.  It wasn't overly sweet nor tart.  Instead it was mild and subdued.  Lastly, we had the Berry Tart topped with chocolate sauce and served with ice cream.  This was flaky and crispy with the tartness of the berries which was offset by the chocolate and ice cream.  Overall, we found the food to be hit and miss, especially considering the prices.  However, when there was a hit, it was pretty good.  On the other hand, the warm and humourous shtick from the owners was definitely a hit though.  That alone could entice me to return.

The Good:
- Simple and to the point food
- Wonderful people
- Quaint

The Bad:
- Somewhat hit and miss
- Pricey

Little Saigon (Yaletown)

With Sunday morning hockey starting up once again, I was looking forward to my weekly lunches with Milhouse and JuJu afterwards.  However, with Vanfoodster's Scavenger Hunt on the sched for the afternoon, it meant I only had minimal time to scarf down some food.  My solution?  Eat at Little Saigon in Yaletown due to its proximity to the starting point of the scavenger hunt (at Xoxolat).  Since Whipping Girl was joining me for the event, she ended up meeting us at the restaurant.

We began with the Saigon Platter consisting of Salad Rolls, Spring Rolls, Dumplings, Grilled Pork and Salad.  The salad rolls were a touch loose, but the textures were spot on.  Despite the use of wheat wrappers, the spring rolls were crispy while the filling was moist and well-seasoned.  I liked crunchy chicken dumplings, but the filling was a bit bland. Although a bit salty, the grilled pork was tender with a good char.  For myself, I had to order Tom's Special which was an extra large bowl of pho with meatballs, brisket and rare beef.  This was large, but not exceptionally large for the price.  I found the broth to be on the lighter side, but pleasant enough.  I wouldn't say it had a lot of distinguishing flavours being neither too sweet nor salty.  It was fairly clean though and scorching hot (a good thing).  I did like the rare beef as it was really tender. As a side note, I asked for no green onions, but with cilantro and as you see in the picture, it was plain.

Milhouse had the Saigon Satay with meatballs, brisket and rare beef in a spicy broth.  I gave it a try and it wasn't particularly hot (spice-wise), but it was aromatic.  The meats were the same as the regular Pho which was a good thing.  Lastly, JuJu had the Lemongrass Chicken on Rice.  This was a fairly decent portion on top of a large mound of chewy rice.  Although the chicken was tender and sufficiently marinated with enough sugar and lemongrass, it was longing for some char which could've added smokiness and caramelization.  Overall, we didn't mind the food at Little Saigon, especially since there are very few choices for Vietnamese food in Downtown (especially rare in Yaletown). Prices are fairly reasonable given the location and the service we received was courteous.

The Good:
- Decent for Yaletown
- Okay pricing for the location
- Above-average service

The Bad:
- Okay pricing, but it is still a bit more
- Food is okay for Yaletown, but naturally, you can get better elsewhere