Sherman's Food Adventures

Chef Tony

To say we have a good selection of Dim Sum in Vancouver is understating the obvious.  However, with so many great places, it becomes increasingly difficult to find "the best".  In fact, it gets even more complicated when you factor in price point, portion size and quality.  For some, the actual ambiance and level of service helps determine their favourite.  According to many, Chef Tony produces some of the best Dim Sum in town and seeing how it is one of the few places I haven't visited, we braved the lineup (even with a reservation).

Situated in the former location of Hon's in Richmond, the post-modern dining space didn't offer much area for tables as half of the restaurant consisted of VIP rooms.  As for the food, we started with the Black Truffle, Pork & Shrimp Dumplings that we could smell even a few tables away.  Both the pork and shrimp maintained a buttery rebound texture as the dumpling itself was rather juicy.  Of course the dominant flavour was the super woodsy black truffle (possibly too much though).  Continuing with truffle, specifically truffle oil, the Shrimp Dumplings were also mildly Earthy.  I thought it was only mildly overwhelming as I could still taste the sweetness of the buttery shrimp.  The dumpling skin was expertly made being translucent with the right thickness and appealingly chewy.

Next up was the Meat & Fried Garlic on Crystal Noodles which was a fairly large portion.  Although the noodles were a bit clumpy and stuck together (as they can be), when mixed with the sauce, all was well.  Ultimately, the noodles were cooked properly being appealingly chewy.  As for the sauce, it was meaty and rich with the aromatics from the fried garlic.  To keep things a touch healthier, we had the Braised Assorted Mushrooms with Baby Bak Choy in abalone sauce.  Due to the high water content of all of the ingredients, there was significant pool of water underneath.  Despite that, the salty and briny sauce kept things flavoured.  Cooked just enough, the mushrooms retained a firm bite.

For the kiddies, we got the usual Lo Mei Gai (Sticky Rice) and BBQ Pork Buns.  Unlike the other dishes so far, the lo mei gai was a pretty standard interpretation with salted duck yolk, Chinese sausage, ground pork and shiitake mushroom.  With all these ingredients, the sticky rice was not longing for flavour.  Texturally, the rice was on the drier side, aided by the addition of wild rice.  Although BBQ pork buns are generally not very exciting, these ones were pretty good.  I particularly enjoyed the lack of radioactive red food colouring and the overuse of sugar.  Hence, there was more of a savouriness with a background deep sweetness.  There was ample filling that was lean while the actual bun was fluffy and soft.

Since my daughter was a bit under the weather, we got some Chinese soul food - the Seafood Congee.  Yes, a picture of congee is as exciting as waiting in the Chef Tony lineup, but there was shrimp and fish to be found within the silky and semi-thick broth (that stayed thick until the last spoonful).  In addition to the well-seasoned flaky fish and meaty shrimp, the congee itself was subject to enough salt and msg.  Of course we needed to add a side of Salty Donut to go with the congee right?  Well not really, my son just wanted it and he ate practically all of it without any congee.  In actuality, it needed the congee as it was fried until it was more of a crisp than a donut.


Onto something quite unique, we sampled the Bitter Melon and Shredded Chicken Rice Noodle Roll.  Presented in a lively shade of green, the rice noodle was soft while still retaining its elasticity.  We enjoyed that the bitterness was restrained so that it didn't overwhelm the chicken.  Mildly seasoned and sweet, the tender strips of chicken were held in place by a light starch-thickened glaze.  Another interesting item with an equally interesting name was the Flaky Almond Meat Loaf Sticks (???).  Okay...  Anyways, these were fried up masterfully where they were brown and nutty while not burnt.  The crunchy slivered almonds gave way to a filling resembling that of the sui mai.  Hence, this was a contrast of crunchy with tender and bouncy.

Continuing on, we moved into the offal portion of the meal with the Steamed Bible Tripe with scallions and ginger.  As you can see in the picture, they didn't go easy on the greens which meant there was no gamy flavour (also from being properly rinsed).  Rather, the flavours reflected the visuals including the usual salt and white pepper.  Although the buttery tripe was tender and easy to chew, I would've liked to see more of a rebound texture.  On the other hand, the Chicken Feet in Vinegar and Pepper exhibited plenty of rebound.  The gelatinized skin was appealingly bouncy while spiced with a slight tartness and plenty of heat from the Szechuan peppercorns.  Viv thought that the dish was missing the sweet element that would've brought balance.

Back to the regular, we had 2 classic Dim Sum offerings in the Ground Beef Ball and Pork Spareribs with Taro in Black Bean Sauce.  Buttery soft with only the slightest amount of bouncy meat texture, the beef meatballs were nicely seasoned by the balanced amount of cilantro.  With the lack of other distinguishing flavours, there was a certain natural meatiness to the dish that was brightened up by the cilantro and watercress underneath.  As for the spareribs, they were mildly salty (due to the black beans) while sporting some spice intermittently from the slices of jalapeno.  Texturally, the ribs were tenderized enough so that they were not chewy while still retaining a meatiness.

We thought our meal would end off with the Baked Egg White and Cream Buns, but there was one last dish afterwards.  As for the buns, they were obviously made with care as the texture of the dough was light and airy.  Furthermore, the buns ate much less sweet than they appeared (including the custard cream).  One thing we would've liked to see was a silkier cream as it was quite lumpy.  So our last dish was the Steamed Taro Pudding which featured large chunks of soft, crumbly taro situated in a firm pudding.  We liked this dish but didn't love it.  This was partly due to the heaviness of the actual pudding.  Flavours were good though including the dried scallop on top.  Overall, we were quite impressed with the Dim Sum service due to the quality of the food as well as the attentive service.  Sure, the place is expensive, but dare I agree that it is the best Dim Sum in the GVRD?

The Good:
- Carefully prepared dishes
- Excellent service (for a Chinese restaurant)
- Flavours are more complex than most other Chinese restaurants

The Bad:
- Pricey
- Long lineup (even with a rez)
- Not that many seats that are not VIP

Fish Cafe

It seems by default, we head into Richmond for eats after softball whenever we play in Oakridge.  I guess it makes sense as it doesn't take long to get there and by the time we're done, the traffic is light (which makes it infinitely safer).  But hold on here, there are plenty of restaurants nearby that we ignore much like pedestrians with blinking red hands...  Yes, it's very frustrating when trying to make a left turn!  I digress.  So for once, we decided to hit up something in Kerrisdale in the form of the Fish Cafe.

As its name suggests, the place is all about the seafood, namely fish.  But before we got to that, Chill was super famished and made the executive decision for all of us to share the large Grilled Calamari with garlic butter.  These were prepared masterfully where there was a balanced texture between chewy and tender.  Due to the high heat, the sear was impactful with little crunchy bits and plenty of lemon, garlic, butter and spice.  For myself, I started with a large bowl of Clam Chowder.  As shown in the picture, this was one thick concoction.  I  wasn't sure if this was normal or that it was because we were the last table of the day.  Beyond the consistency of the broth, the flavours were mild and creamy with only a touch of brininess.  There was no shortage of ingredients including tender clams.

Due to her busy schedule, we haven't seen much of Hot Chocolate as of late, other than the times we've eaten in Richmond (no comment).  Well, she was with us this time and went for the Crab Cakes.  She found them rather small and flat for the price.  However the quality partially made up for that fact.  Other than some sweet corn niblets, there was very little filler.  Comprised mainly of fluffy crab, the exterior was lightly crisp and dressed with a mild roasted red pepper sauce.  Miss Y decided on the Grilled Scallops with garlic butter and rice.  Although there were 8 buttery scallops, they were quite small.  They were nicely seared and completely seasoned by the garlic butter.  Underneath, the rice was serviceable if not a bit wet.

For myself, I had the 2pc Steelhead and Chips.  Although often confused with salmon, the rainbow trout definitely ate differently.  It was expertly fried where it was flaky and super moist.  The batter was a touch thick, yet crunchy throughout and easy on the grease.  I found the tartar sauce creamy while lacking acidity.  Combined with the underseasoned fish, I was yearning for salt. As for the thick-cut fries, they were crispy with plenty of soft potato goodness inside.  Milhouse, on the other hand, did order the Sockeye Salmon with lemon butter and fries.  It turned as good as my trout where it was flaky and not dried-out.  It sported an excellent sear on both sides including crispy skin.  Similarly to the other dishes so far, the salmon was not longing for any flavour as it was properly seasoned with salt, pepper and lemon butter.

Chill opted for the Grilled Halibut with garlic butter and fries.  From its appearance and ultimately its texture, the halibut was definitely fresh.  With whole flakes and a surprising butteriness, the fish was flawlessly prepared.  It featured an appealingly crisp sear as well as being seasoned fully.  For dessert, the 2 choices were carrot cake and Chocolate Oblivion.  We knew they weren't made in-house, but decided to try the latter anyways.  With 3 layers consisting of ganache, mousse and cake, there was different textures at work.  The cake ate pretty firm where it was surprisingly semi-sweet.  It didn't scream out chocolate either despite the visuals, yet it was decent nonetheless.  However, if we focus on the fish only, the place truly lives up to its name with masterfully prepared fresh fish.

The Good:
- Fresh seafood
- They know how to cook it
- Generally seasoned properly

The Bad:
- Is a bit pricey, but the quality justifies it

Sushi by Yuji

What do authentic Japanese sushi and cheap housing have in common within the GVRD?  Well, not much other than both are harder to find than a fast moving lineup at Costco.  One major problem an authentic sushi joint faces is that most people do not want authentic sushi and the accompanying price tag.  Hence, we deserve the restaurants that we get since the whole point is to make money and to target as many people as possible (not the small minority of authentic-seeking foodies).  On that note, there is a new spot on Kingsway called Sushi by Yuji (much like Kazu in Burnaby, both are alumni of Shiro on Cambie).

I met up with authentic sushi aficionado Vandelay for lunch at Sushi by Yuji where the menu is simple with very few cooked items.  We did start with one though being the Takoyaki dressed in just the right amount of mayo and tonkatsu sauce.  I found them soft and a bit doughy while the octopus was sufficiently tender with an appealing chew.  Served in a small bowl, we dug into the Marinated Tuna with wasabi, soy, sesame seeds and sesame paste.  The buttery tuna was a touch too cold, but the texture was on point.  I liked how the marinade was impactful enough without overwhelming the delicate fish.  There was an aromatic initial hit that blended into the wasabi finish.

We moved onto the Assorted Sashimi consisting of sockeye salmon, albacore tuna, hamachi, ika and mackerel.  Okay, this may sound like a simplistic and predictable description of the fish, but everything was fresh and noticeably flavourful.  The inherent sweetness of the fish combined with the appropriate textures (as in soft, but still with buttery resistance) made for excellent sashimi.  Next, we had the Sushi Combo which was served on 2 plates.  The first one included 6 pieces of Nigiri (tako, halibut, hamachi, ika, salmon and tuna).  Again, the fish was on point and attractively prepared.  The sushi rice was also good with a glutinous chewiness accented by mild flavours.

Arriving on the second plate was 3 pieces of nigiri (tobiko with quail's egg, hotate and ikura) and a Negitoro Roll.  I enjoyed the tobiko and quail's egg nigiri as the silky egg contrasted the pop of the tobiko.  As for the roll, it was neatly constructed with buttery and sweet tuna complimented by just the right amount of green onion.  Now if it isn't obvious that I truly enjoyed the preparation and freshness of the sushi here, then you've been texting and reading at the same time.  Yes, the sushi here is not cheap and for some, missing the bells and whistles.  However, if you are craving authentic, well-made and quality sushi, Sushi by Yuji fits that description.

The Good:
- Quality ingredients
- Skillfully-prepared
- Nice people

The Bad:
- Expensive
- Small place with small tables

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Frenchies

As much as smoked meat sandwiches are da bomb, there are not many places to find them in the GVRD.  Other than Dunn's, Estrella's, Anny's Dairy Bar and La Belle Patate, there is only one more that I haven't tried.  That place happens to be Frenchie's which has just recently moved into the vacated location of the former Cray Kitchen.  Yes, seafood boils are also scare here as well...  Despite the negative reviews on the internet, I had to see for myself if the smoked meat and poutine were up to snuff.

With that in mind, I had to get the 12 oz. Montreal Smoked Meat Sandwich with coleslaw and pickles.  It was piled high on soft rye bread and lightly dressed with yellow mustard. Well, it certainly looked impressive when it hit the table.  Thinly sliced and fatty, the smoked meat melted-in-my-mouth.  I would've preferred a meatier texture and a touch more smoke, but I did appreciate the mild saltiness.  Sandwiched in between 2 slices of light rye, the whole thing was not bad.  Onto the small Classic Poutine, it was a decent side for the price.  The house-cut fries were pretty brown and only slightly crisp.  They were a bit heavy and I could taste the grease.  However, topped with a thick and silky gravy (which was a bit salty), the poutine was respectable.  We enjoyed the ample amount of squeaky and not-melted cheese curds on top.

Just to change things up a bit, we also tried the 2-patty Salisbury Steak with a huge side of fries.  Consisting of 2 hand-made burger patties, the whole thing was doused in a thick and salty gravy that was spiked with sauteed onions and mushrooms.  I found the steaks to be rather dry and crumbly due to the lean meat.  I would've personally preferred the patties to be more processed like a cutlet.  The side of fries were appreciably more crispy than the poutine due to the lack of gravy on top.  They were still heavy though.

The Good:
- Decent eats despite the reviews
- Fairly large portions

The Bad:
- Not cheap
- I liked the smoked meat, but I still prefer a meatier texture

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Lombardo's Ristorante & Pizzeria

Before the explosion of Neapolitan pizza joints in the GVRD, there was Lombardo's situated in the El Mercato market on the corner of 1st and Commercial.  Yes, I was around when it first opened during Expo 86 and have visited the place intermittently since.  However, since my last visit was back in 2009, I didn't hesitate to take up an invite.  It was about time I got reacquainted to one of the original wood-fired pizzerias in town.

To start things off, we were presented with the Heirloom Tomato Focaccia hot from the 800 degree oven.  Crunchy throughout with a chewy finish, the crust was properly seasoned and slightly charred.  On top, the combination of the tomato sauce and fresh tomatoes ensured that there would be a burst of acidity and background sweetness.  The drizzle of garlic oil and balsamic only further amped the aromatics of the flat bread.

We shared 2 appies next which included the Chef Salad with romaine, tomato, cucumber, ham, artichokes, black olives, mozzarella, mushrooms and house dressing.  At first, the light dressing consisting of olive oil, garlic, salt, pepper and white wine vinegar seemed to be lacking impact, but the olives and artichokes offered up the necessary saltiness and tang.  With that, there was a balance of flavours as well as textures.  In a heaping mound, the large order of Frittura di Calamari was well-prepared.  Tender with an appealing natural chewiness, both the rings and tentacles were well-seasoned and fried just right.  I found the batter to be paper thin and easy on the grease, but it could've been just a touch crispier.  The accompanying Tzatziki was thick and creamy with the usual hits of garlic and lemon.

Onto the pasta course, we shared 3 including the Fusilli alla Nonna featuring aglio olio garnished with quark and fresh basil.  Lightly sauced while impactful from the chili flakes, the pasta was deceivingly spicy.  At first, I got light tomato and garlic accented by the creamy quark, then once past that, the chilis kicked in and lingered afterwards.  The pasta here was a bit past al dente. Next, I sampled the Spaghetti Pasticciati employing a thicker version of pasta in a creamy meat sauce.  Due to its thickness, the spaghetti was toothsome and stood up well to the hearty sauce.  I found the sauce to be just the right consistency where it clung onto each strand of pasta.  It was plenty meaty with depth-of-flavour that featured only the slightest tang to with the creaminess.

Our last pasta was the Linguine in a Creamy Pesto that was super aromatic.  With just enough sauce to coat the pasta, the dish didn't eat as heavy as it appeared.  In fact, the strong basil aroma and flavour added a herbaceous brightness.  Furthermore, the ample amount of well-seasoned pasta added body so that the sauce on the surface was able to do its thing without needing to do all the heavy-lifting.

We then moved to 3 pizzas starting with the classic Margherita made with mozzarella cheese and Italian vine-ripened tomatoes.  I found the crust to be crunchy throughout all-the-way to the middle.  It sported a decent char which added a smokiness to the well-salted and chewy dough.  The tomato sauce was lightly acidic and fresh tasting while there was ample mozzarella.  I would've liked to see more fresh basil though.  Our next pizza was the Salmone with wild BC smoked salmon, capers, onions, fresh dill and garlic oil.  Despite the wet toppings, the pizza crust held up and remained crunchy throughout.  As such, I could eat each slice as a whole without anything sliding off.  The resulting flavours were classic smoked salty salmon with the extra salty tang from the capers and sweetness from the onions.

For our last pizza, we tried the hearty Capricciosa with salami, ham, artichokes, mushrooms and black olives.  Again, the crust was not affected by the amount of toppings which allowed each bite to be a whole.  As such, the salty ingredients meant the pizza ate with plenty of flavours including the aforementioned saltiness in addition to the tang of the olives and artichokes as well as the slight pepperiness of the salami.  For dessert, we sampled the cute little Cannolis shaped as crunchy mini-cones with the filling acting as the "ice cream".  I had the tiramisu flavour and it was sweet and creamy.  Personally, I still love the classic cannoli, but these little bites were the perfect end to a filling meal.  In the end, it was nice to be re-introduced to a classic where the pizzas pastas hold their own against the new spots in town.

*All food, beverages and gratuities*

The Good:
- Crunchy pizza crust from the legit wood oven
- Decent portions
- Fair pricing

The Bad:
- Dining space is a bit cramped and warm
- Pasta could've been more al dente

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