The Turning Peel

Ever since I visited Apizza Scholls many moons ago, we have seen Portland's pizza game level up exponentially.  One of the newer spots is The Turning Peel, which was actually not as new as one might think.  Owner Candy Yiu started experimenting with sourdough during the pandemic in 2020.  Her sourdough eventually transitioned to pizza dough and it has the benefit of being not as flimsy as typical Neapolitan crusts.  After debating as to which pizza place we were going to hit on this trip, The Turning Peel seemed like our best bet.

Before we got to our pizzas, we went for the Beet n Mint.  This was a fairly simple salad with cubes of beets with orange segments on top and fresh mint.  Nothing out-of-the ordinary here but solid nonetheless.  The beets were juicy with a sweet earthiness while the orange provided an extra layer of citrusy sweet tang.  It was in a red wine vinaigrette with EVOO and pickled red onion. The mint added that bright herbaceousness.

Onto the pizzas, we tried their Pepperoni Jalapeno Hot Honey.  Look at that crust, isn't it a thing of beauty?  There has been a recent debate as to what makes a great Neapolitan-style pizza where charring and leoparding isn't necessarily a prerequisite.  However, for me, I'm all about the nutty smokiness from this type of preparation.  Add in the sturdiness of the sourdough crust and we have a uniformly crispy crust that is well-seasoned and appealingly chewy.  We can't forget about the toppings on this one and it was a flavor bomb with saltiness, pepperiness, tanginess, spice, sweetness and heat.  Every bite was a blast.  Highly-recommend this one.

We went for the other highlighted pizza in the Truffle Mushroom.  Beyond the outstanding and consistent crust, this had the classic earthy and woodsy notes that was not overwhelmed by any cream base.  Rather, they merely employed EVOO with portobello and bella mushrooms.  This was complimented by fresh cultured mozzarella and finished with more EVOO and aged parmesan (we got it on the side).  You could imagine all the nuttiness and aromatics going on here.

They also have a selection of crust dips and we went for the Ricotta, Honey & Fruit.  This was a nice change from the usual dips we find everywhere else as this was lighter, but just as flavorful with sweetness.  Really complimented the sourdough.  About that...  We were presented with a loaf of Sourdough as we paid the bill.  It was a thank you for dining at The Turning Peel.  Such nice people and such a great product.  We will be back!

The Good:

- Excellent blistered sourdough crust

- Impactful flavors

- Super nice people

The Bad:

- Even though we thought flavors were strong, maybe just a bit more pepperoni would've put that first pizza over the top

Entrecôte Restaurant

A few years ago, while in Paris, we visited Le Relais de l'Entrecôte and its one dish menu - Steak Frites.  If you are still peqish after your initial portion, they come around and offer you more of both steak and frites.  There is also this green sauce that has a bit of everything in it - herbs, creaminess, bitterness, acidity and in this case, some chicken livers.  There are no reservations, so people line up and trust me, it fills up fast, even though there are 3 locations in Paris.  In fact, they have spots in other parts of the world as well.  But not in Vancouver.  That is where Entrecôte Restaurant comes into the picture.  Independently-owned, this spot in Gastown gives the same vibes and one menu item as the original.  Jackie and I stopped by to see what they were all about.

After we got our drink order in, we were presented with some sliced Baguette served with mustard.  We were informed that this is how they eat it in France.  Honestly, I did not see that was the case while I was in France, so this was new to me.  We asked for butter and they got us some.  Just like the original, our meal started with a Fresh Green Walnut Salad with house vinaigrette.  This was great as things were fresh while the walnuts were great.

Since half of the restaurant has a good deal of natural light, it can deceive your eyes as to the doneness of the steak.  We asked for medium-rare and yes, it was done correctly.  However, without my camera (which took the actual colour of the steak), to the naked eye, it looked well-done.  That is why steakhouses are dark, so you can see the actual cook on the steak.  I found the Steak to be quite tender and paired well with the green sauce.  It was creamy, herbeceous, a little bitter and having backround acidity.  Fries were pretty good but could've been crispier.  Overall, a decent plate of food.  You are welcome to ask for more fries and sauce, but unlike Paris, you can't ask for more steak.

Naturally, dessert is a la carte and we went for 2 of them including the majestically-plated Le Vacherin Framboise.  This featured meringue base topped by vanilla ice cream and then another meringue, then raspberry sorbet, another meringue with raspberry coulis poured on top.  We enjoyed the refreshing fruitiness of the dessert with the coulis adding tartness.  Nice compliment to a steak dinner.

We also tried the Profiteroles sporting choux pastry encasing vanilla ice cream.  This was drizzled with chocolate sauce and some sliced almonds.  Not a complex dessert, but a solid one nonetheless.  Choux pastry was crispy while not being overly dry.  Chocolate was sweet, but not crazy sweet.  Overall, the experience as a whole at Entrecôte was decent.  The steak frites weren't life-changing, but they did capture the Parisienne vibe.   Service was excellent and highly attentive.

The Good:

- Decent Steak Frites

- Excellent service

- Nice ambiance

The Bad:

- Steak Frites could be refined even further

- Maybe some butter should be offered with the baguette

Campfire

So my kids are older now, hence theme parks and the sort are not really in the cards when it comes to travel.  However, the immature person that I am really enjoys theme parks.  Seeing how a friend of mine was travelling to both Legoland and Disneyland with her 5-year old, I volunteered to accompanying them.  Of course, we still had to eat and I had no interest in crappy food, especially out near Legoland.  That brought us to Campfire, which is kid-friendly, yet still dishes up tasty and composed dishes.  Yep, they cook everything over an open fire!  

Unlike many of the other Cornbreads I've had, the one here was super fluffy and crumbly.  It was a bit difficult to eat without the use of a spoon, but I enjoyed it nonetheless.   Loved the tanginess from the blood orange as well as the creaminess of the hibiscus butter.  Just a bit of bite from the pink peppercorn.  As you can see in the picture, there was a nice crispy crust on the outside.

We got two of the Ember Roasted Prawns which were perfectly executed.   The shell was crispy while smoky and charred.  Inside, the prawn was just cooked through being meaty and a bit bouncy.  It was naturally sweet and had all of the natural prawn aroma.  The sauce was the best part as it was sweet with great acidity and herbaceousness.

Beautifully plated with bright colors, the Ahi Tuna Crudo was delicious.  The fish itself was fresh with the taste of the sea as well as sweetness.  It was bright and also great texturally.   Once again, the sauce was the highlight.  Bright flavours once again with acidity.  The guava added some real tang and aroma.  Charred avocado was buttery and smoky.  That pepper was pretty spicy.

Their signature dish is the whole head of Broccoli that was aggressively roasted on the open fire.  As such, the florets were crispy and light while also smoky.  Interesting texture which became more appealing with each bite.  Sounding like a broken record, that chermoula was so vibrant and tangy.   Underneath, the hummus was buttery and flavorful.  Loved the crunch from the peanuts.

Off to the larger dishes, the Steelhead Trout was served in a large portion.  Although the skin was perfectly crispy and well-salted, the fish itself was slightly over.  Difficult to regulate the temperature over an open fire...  No matter, as the miso and black garlic provided all the umaminess the plate needed.  Such rich fermented flavors to go with the wild mushrooms.  

Loved the tender, yet meaty nuggets of Octopus.  Nice smokiness and caramelization.  The Spanish chorizo added a smoked paprika hit while also being meaty and a bit spicy.  Underneath, we found some smoked celery root puree which was smooth and well, smoky.  Some basil chimichurri added some brightness while the grapefruit segments added acidity.

Originally, we weren't going to order any dessert, but we witnessed the table beside us ordering the Yes, we have S'mores and well, we followed suit.  As you can see, this was DIY where we found a pile of hot coals with graham crackers, chocolate and a large marshmallow.  Yes, the 5-year old really enjoyed making his own s'mores!  Overall, we quite enjoyed our meal at Campfire where the vibes were lively.  Great place for parents to grab some elevated eats with their kids or anyone else for all that matters.

The Good:

- Elevated eats

- Kid-friendly with a kid's menu

- Nice vibes

The Bad:

- Cooking with an unregulated open flame can lead to some things overcooking

Orto Artisan Pasta

It's been almost 9 whole years I've been trying to dine at Orto.  Even since they opened in 2017, I've received recommendations from friends about the place.  From its beautiful garden to their handmade pastas, this was apparently the new hot place to go in North Van.  Well, it is no longer new, but still a popular place amongst the locals and those willing to drive out to the North Shore.  We finally got the opportunity to hit them up since we were in nearby Downtown Vancouver.  Since we had an early reservation, we secured prime seating amongst the foliage in an almost private dining-esque table for 2.

Being neighbouring businesses and sharing the same ethos of artisanal eats, Orto serves Bad Dog Bread on their menu.  Of course we didn't hesitate to have some for our meal.  This came with 6 toasted slices accompanied by tapenade, EVOO and caramelized onion butter.  Bread was fantastic having a heartiness to it without being dense.  It had a nuttiness and went really well with the sweet butter.  Tapenade was great too having the classic briny saltiness of the olives.  We also got the Green Leaf Lettuce Salad as well and it was organic and fresh while being tossed in a tangy and bright vinaigrette.  It was topped with plenty of shaved parmesan.

Onto some appies, we went for one of the features of the night being the Calamari.  These were in generally little pieces which were coated in a uniformly crispy batter.  We thought it was properly seasoned and none too greasy.  The squid itself had a chew while still being tender.  Best part was the housemade tartar sauce.  It featured fresh mayo that was made with free-range eggs with a combination of dill, capers and onions.  Really bright and tangy with rich creaminess.

We also had the Mussels Poulette with a huge side of frites.  Sitting in a white wine and cream sauce, the plump honey mussels were cooked beautifully.  We found them buttery soft with the usual chew from the mantle while having an appealing sweet brininess.  The broth was a bit sweet and bright, but could've used just a bit more aromatics.  Really enjoyed the frites as they were super crispy while light and airy on the inside.  Despite the large portion, we dusted it off.

Onto our pastas, we went for the Spaghetti Carbonara.  Featuring firmly al dente pasta, there was some real texture with every bite.  Really well done since fresh pasta can be finicky to work with.  There was a real cheesy richness to the dish without having the egg curdle.  Plenty of lardons in the mix providing the fattiness as well as the saltiness for the dish.  It also provided a meaty texture intermittently between bites of pasta.  A final topping of parm on top provided extra nuttiness.

For some reason, the Squid Ink Spaghetti was a little less al dente than the carbonara.  It was quite possibly due to the residual moisture from the seafood at the bottom of the plate.  No matter, as that was where some of the brininess and bright wine flavour resided.  There was a good amount of garlickiness from the garlic and garlic scapes.  However, as a whole, the pasta was quite bland.  It was lacking in salt and could've used much more chili for some kick.  As for the scallops, they were buttery soft and cooked beautifully.  The prawns were also good being cooked first and added to the pasta after.  Nice meatiness to them.

In addition to our pastas, we added the Risotto with crab meat for good measure.  This was rather tasty with the definite sweet aromatics of lobster.  It quite possibly obscured the brininess of the crab, but we did get some hits of it with the bits and pieces of meat.  With the addition of mushrooms, we got another hit of umami and depth.  The rice itself was chewy and cooked right.

Despite being rather full and having to pack most of the pastas, we saved room for dessert.  We ended up with the Affogato and we were surprised it came with 2 scoops of gelato.  Combined with the espresso, there was an aromatic caramel flavour.  However, with so much gelato, it did dilute the coffee a bit.  No matter, we still enjoyed this and it was great on a hot day.

Our second dessert was the Cherry Pannacotta.  It was refreshing and light, but the pannacotta wasn't completely set.  I personally didn't mind it that much as I prefer that over an overly firm texture.  The cherry compote on top was only semi-sweet with some tartness.  Overall, the meal at Orto was mostly good with some things that could be better.  Service was fantastic and the garden setting elevates the experience.  Pricing is completely fair where it fairly accessible.

The Good:

- That garden is fabulous

- Excellent service

- Generous portions

The Bad:

- A few things could be better

- If you are stuck sitting inside, it is unbearably warm during the Summer

Sunflower Lodge

Last summer, I met with some friends at the Blackberry Kitchen in Mission.  This beautiful wood lodge situated at a top of a hill (with a view) offered up homey vibes with lunch and dinner service.  Well, fast forward to the present and now it is The Sunflower Lodge, which is affiliated with the Sunflower Cafe in Maple Ridge.  Hence, it dishes up the same fresh produce from the farm and focuses on BC ingredients.  We decided to go for the a la carte menu, however, they do have a tasting menu available too.

We were started off with a Amuse Bouche of White and Red Gooseberries in a sorrel purée.  This certainly perked up our appetites with bursts of sour tanginess with just a touch of sweetness.   If the pops of flavour from the gooseberries wasn't enough, the tartness and "greenness" of the sorrel compounded the appetizing effect.  There was also some bread with the same delicious cultivated butter from the cafe.  It was so creamy with strong "butter" flavours.  The addition of flaked salt really elevated the impact.

Our first dish was the Charred Asparagus with smoked mushrooms and Hollandaise.  Each sprig was tender while completely smoky from the char.  It was well-salted where it amplified the sweet flavour of the asparagus.  We found the fried mushrooms to be extra crispy, offering up a textural contrast while also giving off an appealing smokiness.  Creamy and mildly seasoned, the Hollandaise nicely complimented the veggies.

Bringing it down a few notches, the Turnips & Snap Peas was a somewhat subtle dish which acted like a palate cleanser of sorts.  Featuring fresh cubes of bright and earthy turnip and sweet pops from the snap peas, this was simple, yet so delicious.  On top, we found a goat cheese mousse which was also rather understated.  Normally, anything goat cheese can be rather strong and gamy.  However, this wasn't the case, especially combined with the tartness of the flowering currant vinegar.

One of the most unassuming dishes was the Smoked Sablefish Salad.  It consisted of flakes of smoked sablefish with pickled seaweed, celery, fennel with a rice vinegar, apple & celery dressing.  With each bite, we got the butteriness of the flaky sablefish and a pretty strong smokiness.  However, this was balanced off by the tang and sweetness of the dressing.  Crunch from the supremely fresh celery and fennel added texture and the small drops of dill oil afforded herbaceousness.  There was some background spice to it too.

When the Roasted Carrot Salad arrived, we noticed the plating with plenty of negative space.  Yet, the plate in general was nothing but positive.  It featured little underdeveloped carrots that would normally be discarded.  These cute little things were sweet and quite earthy with a touch of spice.  To compliment there was some dukkah for added earthiness and nuttiness.  Going for no wastage, we found a carrot top pesto which was herbaceous and also earthy.  We got another hit of creamy nuttiness from the cashew cream.

Moving onto the larger plates, we thoroughly enjoyed the Housemade Pasta.  These large agnolottis were stuffed with creamy boursin cheese.  That in itself was pretty tasty while encapsulated in an al dente pasta.  However, these were sauced with a sweet onion soubise which was creamy, sweet and buttery.  With the addition of porcini mushrooms and heidi cheese, we got some big hits of earthy nuttiness.  Really good pasta dish.

Arriving as a pretty big portion, the Poached Halibut was perfectly cooked, not to mention, super fresh.  It was flaky, barely cooked through and moist.  This was also an indication that the fish was never frozen.  It was fairly mild in terms of seasoning, but no matter as the creamy sauce Veronique provided a floral and herbaceous flavour to the dish.  Underneath, there was a spring vegetable succotash that exhibited a precise brunoise.  It was cooked beautifully where the fresh texture remained.  Some acidity was provided by the gooseberries and to top it off, there was some sea asparagus. 

Just like at Sunflower Cafe, we also had the Fraser Valley Roasted Duck Breast.  If I had to compare, this was prepared even better than the Cafe, but both were good.  The duck was super tender and juicy while the fat was fairly rendered with a crisp skin.  That Haksap berry jus was balanced with equal parts sweet and tangy.  It was definitely there but allowed the duck flavour to come through.  On the side, there was a turnip salad that was, of course, super fresh, bright and turnipy.

Saving the heaviest dish for last, we had the 16oz Ribeye with gnocchi fries, braised leeks and allium salad.  As you can see, the steak was prepared medium-rare and well rested.  It was also evenly charred with a caramelized smokiness.  To further enhance the steak, there was also a demi-glace on top.  Super crunchy and a nice concept, the gnocchi fries were pretty tasty, if not on the saltier side.  But this was alleviated by the onion and chive salad as well as the seared leeks.

Before we got to dessert, we had a pre-dessert in the Strawberry with elderflower and magnolia topped with mint.  Suffice to say, this was pretty complex with floral, fall flavours and fruity notes.  Nice palate-cleanser before we got to the Ricotta Donuts with housemade lemon curd and blueberry jam.  These were so airy and fluffy, it didn't feel like we were consuming any calories.  Wishful thinking I know!  The combination of tangy lemon curd and sweet jam meant there was a good mix of flavours.

We had one more dessert in the Goat's Milk Tres Leche with fresh strawberries and chantilly.  Once again, the gaminess of goat's milk was very subtle.  The sweetness of the caramelized condensed milk was the most impactful component other than the sweet and tangy strawberries.  This was a well-composed and balanced creation.  Very delicious.  In fact, the food at Sunflower Lodge is excellent and an improvement over Blackberry Kitchen.  Dishes are more refined and elevated.  What a real find in Mission!

*All food and beverages were complimentary for this blog post*

The Good:
- Surprisingly level of refinement out in Mission
- Beautiful location
- Reasonable pricing given the quality and quantity of food

The Bad:
- For those not close by, it is quite the trek

Sunflower Cafe

I might be a little late to the party, but finally, I have made it out to the Sunflower Cafe in Maple Ridge.  This cute spot located on a farm takes farm-to-table to the max where things on your plate are literally harvested as you wait.  Beyond that, the setting is probably one of the nicest spots in the Fraser Valley.  Individual gazebos set within lush greenery and with a view of the current crops on the farm give a sense of peacefulness.  Great on a nice day and even on a rainy day too!  To top it off, they have a tasting menu for $85.00 that features BC ingredients as well as all produce from the farm.

 

I ended up going for the wine pairing ($55.00) with the first one being the Sparkling Chardonnay from Bella King Estate Vineyard Series.  This was clean and fresh with stone fruitiness at the end. The first item to arrive was the Amuse Bouche featuring Citrus Cured Albacore Tuna atop lovage and herb oil.  This was one herbaceous bite where the oil was quite noticeable.  The tuna itself was buttery soft being naturally sweet with a mild background acidity.  On top we found raw fennel, pickled fennel and fennel tops.  As expected, there was the usual licorice notes with plenty of crunch.  As a garnish, we found alyssum flowers straight from the garden (we were watching them snip them just before serving us this dish).

If you can believe it, one of our favourite items of the tasting menu was the Dinner Rolls and Cultured Butter.  These unassuming rolls were so soft and fluffy, I enjoyed eating them without anything.  They were served warm and smelled sweet.  However, we really did have to use up all of the cultured butter with maldon salt.  It was so creamy and had a strong buttery taste.  The salt heightened the flavour of the butter.

The second glass of wine was the Pinot Gris from Sage Hill Winery.  I found this crisp and more robust than the first wine.  It was definitely fruity as well. Perfect to go with the Summer Salad consisting of pickled gooseberries, cucumbers, baton turnips, daylilies and sorrel atop house whipped ricotta.  This was super simple, but the freshness of the components were allowed to shine.  This best way to describe this salad was supremely fresh and bright.  A nice way to begin the meal.
 

Onto the 3rd wine, I had the Scout Rose which was quite rich with dark berry and floral notes.  It stood up well to the Porcini Mushrooms and Grilled Asparagus with espresso sauce.  For a non-meat dish, this was rather meaty.  The mushrooms were so impactful in terms of texture and rich nuttiness and the smokiness of the asparagus added so much depth.  With just enough coffee, the sauce was creamy and full of umami.  On top, the crunchy and bright flavours of the celery and pickled Norway spruce help lighten things up.

 

The 4th wine was the Juno Block Chardonnay from Keenan Thrussell which was light and muted.  Definite fruity notes that was a great match with the Pacific Ling Cod.  It was barely cooked through offering up a moist and flaky texture. Although properly seasoned, the fish was enhanced by the creamy beurre blanc with peas, turnips and morels.  These added earthiness and sweetness.  On the side, we found a gigantic stuffed morel with ling cod mousse.

 

The final wine pairing was our first red being the Daydreamer Amelia.  This was a bit spicy and full-bodied with a touch of fruitiness.  Naturally, this was a perfect match to the Fraser Valley Duck Breast.  This was cooked to medium-rare being tender and juicy.  The fat was fairly well-rendered with crispy and seasoned skin.  Underneath, we found a sweet and tangy summer berries stew surrounded by an earthy and sweet beet puree.  On the side, there was a fried maitake mushroom with stinging nettle powder and sunflower seed butter.

 

As if the meal couldn't be any more enjoyable, we were presented with both the Homemade Chocolate Brownie with chocolate ganache, hazelnut mousse, candied hazelnuts and chocolate tuile cracker.  Sure, the brownie was rich with a crispy exterior that gave way to a chewy chocolate interior.  It was purposefully sweet and was enhanced by the nutty and sweet hazelnut mousse and crunch from the hazelnuts and tuile.  

 

We also were served the Strawberry & Salmon Berry Tart with red & alpine strawberries.  This was predictably a refreshing dessert where the fruitiness of the berries stole the show.  Nice tanginess to go with the sweet pastry cream and strawberry gel.  Loved the sugar tart shell as it was firm and caramelized.  There was a tangy rhubarb sorbet on the side atop puffed black rice and topped with wood sorrel.  Nice texture from the crispy and nutty rice.  Wow, just wow, the setting, food and value found at the Sunflower Cafe...  This is a place that should be in Canada's Top 100 restaurants.  I have no doubt this will happen real soon!

 

*All food and beverages were complimentary for this blog post*

 

The Good:

- One of the most unique dining experiences in the Fraser Valley

- The freshest fruits and vegetables you will find at a restaurant 

- Well-priced

 

The Bad:

- A bit for for some, but really, it is worth the drive