Swatow

Originally, we had visited Swatow back on our first visit to Toronto this year.  But on our return trip a few months later, we did another flyby to get a few more dishes for this post.  For those who are unfamiliar, Swatow has been around since the 80's and has been dishing up Cantonese classics for a casual meal or late night eats.  It may not be the latest and greatest, but any visit will be nostalgic.  Walking into the place, one can see that the decor has not changed much since it opened and they even have newspaper articles from yesteryear. 

On our initial visit, we decided to get an ol' standby with the Wonton Noodles.  So what I said in the opening paragraph rings true with this dish.  If this was still the 80's, this bowl of wonton noodles would've been the sh*t.  However, compared to places like Wonton Hut and Congee Queen, it pales in comparison.  The wontons themselves were small and the shrimp was a bit on the gummier side.  Serviceable, but not great.  As for the broth, it was light and respectable, but lacked the aroma and brininess of better versions.  Lastly, the noodles were still al dente, but didn't have that appealing chew associated with lye water.  Decent bowl of noodles, but others have passed this by.

Now on the other hand, the Black Bean Beef Fried Noodles was fantastic.  Featuring crispy fried noodles, this was topped with a flavourful black bean sauce that was salty and garlicky.  The ample slices of beef were marinated until they were buttery but still had a meaty texture.  As for the onions and peppers, they still had a crunch and were still vibrant.  Good wok hei on the components and the sauce.  Caramelized flavours and some smokiness.

We also had the Sweet & Sour Pork on steamed rice for good measure.  This was classic and had a viscous sauce that was balanced in terms of tang and sweetness.  There was enough of it to coat each piece of pork and for the dry chewy rice as well (this is the right texture for the rice).  I found that there were a few pieces of pure fat mixed in with some meatier chunks of pork.  They were tender with a medium-thick batter that was still crunchy despite being coated in sauce.

On our follow-up visit, we had a few of their popular dishes including the Fried Rice Noodles with Beef.  This didn't look anything special, but ate much better than it looked.  The thinner rice noodles were not clumpy and had a good smoky sear.  Despite being a bit pale (lack of dark soy), the taste was good with balanced saltiness with a touch of sweetness.  Noodles were not oily, as this dish usually is.  The bean sprouts were still crunchy while the slices of beef were tender and well-marinated.

I normally do not order General Tso's Chicken but apparently it is a fan favourite.  I can see why, because the chunks of chicken were large and had a crunchy batter.  Chicken inside was tender and moist despite being white meat.  The sauce itself had a good mix of salty, sweet, tangy and spicy.  It had a nice thickness that coated each piece of chicken.  One issue with the dish was the temperature of the chicken, it was not hot.  This leads me to believe the chicken was refried (it was par-cooked earlier).

Lastly, we went for the Black Bean Clams, which is a late night classic.  Almost all of the clams were open and not sandy at all.  They were plump and cooked just enough.  Lots of natural brininess from the clams that also flavoured the sauce.  I found the sauce to be a bit goopy but it had good garlicky and salty fermented black bean hits.  Overall, the food at Swatow is decent and represents a certain ol' school type of Chinese restaurant.  Good for late night, but there is certainly better now, such as Congee Queen.

The Good:

- Reasonably-priced

- Decent eats

- Decent portions

The Bad:

- There is better elsewhere