On my previous visits to LA in 2019 and 2022, we ate at a lot of places but never got to hit up Holbox. It came highly-recommended and in fact, has recently just been award a Michelin star. High praise for a food stall located in Mercato La Paloma. Chef Gilbert Cetina fuses Coastal Mexican cuisine with Southern Californian and Baja Califorinan influences. They have an 8-course dinner on Thursdays and Fridays, but Viv and I were only able to make it out for lunch while we were in LA.
No matter, because there is still plenty to feast on including the Shrimp Aguachile. This has to be one of the best, if not the best aguachiles I've had. There was definite heat from the spicy green aguachile, but it was also refreshing and acidic. It was also properly seasoned where the sweet shrimp took on all of the flavors. The addition of crispy shrimp heads were great being a textural contrast to the soft shrimp. Nice little tweak that elevated this dish. Oh, and this came with saltines that you can enjoy with the aguachilie.
Next, we had the Blue Fin Tostada with avocado puree and arbol peanut sauce. Featuring Baja California farmed blue fin tuna cerviche, the buttery soft texture really came through. Also, the unmistakable sweetness and freshness of the sea was present as well. Despite being a ceviche, the acidity was dialed down enough to let the blue fin shine. The avocado puree only added some creaminess as it was mild while the peanut sauce was also creamy with smokiness. Some pico de gallo provided some crunch and extra brightness.
Another killer dish was the Sopa de Mariscos (Seafood Stew). This consisted of local rockfish, shrimp, kanpachi, mussels and house-made fish sausage. This was outstanding where all of the seafood juices were completely incorporated into the broth. Therefore, the natural sweet and brininess of the seafood was at the forefront. The whole thing was also properly seasoned. Perfect for dipping that toasted airy bread. The seafood itself was beautifully cooked where the fish was flaky and the mussels were plump.
From all the choices of tacos, we got a few including the Baja Shrimp and the Octopus. Crispy on the outside while meaty and perfectly cooked on the inside, the shrimp were pretty sweet on their own. However, the addition of some cabbage, crema, mayo, salsa roja and pico de gallo added crunch, brightness, acidity and background spice. As for the octopus, it was tender with just a bit of crispiness on the outside. It sat atop a calamari ink sofrito which provided some moisture as well as sweetness and earthiness.
Our last item was the Smoked Kanpachi Taco with local queso Oxaca, salsa cruda, avocado & peanut salsa macha. This was on par with the aguachile and seafood stew as our favorite item. The flavors in this were impactful and memorable. From the smokiness of the fish to the smoky and nutty salsa macha, this was addictive and we wanted another. But alas, we were rather full and completely satisfied. I gotta say that Holbox definitely deserves its Michelin-Star. The food is fantastic in terms of freshness and execution. It is interesting and does not hold back in announcing its flavors. I would come back in a heartbeat and really, I need to get resos for that dinner tasting menu!The Good:
- Fantastic flavors
- Food is exciting
- Relatively affordable
The Bad:
- Well, it is in a market and seating is a bit hard to find at peak times
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