What if I told you there is this new stylish European restaurant that features cuisine inspired by the ancient trade route connecting the Baltic Sea to the Mediterranean? Head Chef and owner Jarek Jaroslaw has crafted a menu that touches everywhere from the Mediterranean to Eastern Europe. Consider this, would you believe it is located in the Holiday Inn & Suites Vancouver Downtown? Yes, it isn't the first place that comes to mind when guessing its location. That would probably explain the inclusion of some more recognizable North American dishes and breakfast on the menu. However, we came here to experience the unique cuisine at Amber Road!
We started off with things I've never had before including the Elk Pyzy Of The Northern Forest which were Polish potato dumplings filled with elk and sauced with light cream, bacon and chanterelles. These were stealthily delicious as they initially didn't give away how flavourful they would be. Once past the soft potato casing, we found tender and surprisingly non-gamy elk. But the strongest part was the aromatic woodsiness of the plentiful chanterelles combined with the cream and salty bacon.
Another surprising item was the Polish Croquettes because they didn't look like how I envisioned what would be classified as a croquette. Featuring folded golden crêpes filled with mushrooms, spinach and cheese, these reminded me more like a spanakopita (at least the filling that is). Oh and how delicious was that filling... It was creamy and cheesy with tender spinach and the umami of mushrooms. The exterior was crispy and light. This was served with traditional red borscht on the side. It was earthy, sweet and tangy.
Something much more recognizable was the Arancini Dell'ambra. These were quite massive and featured a slightly crispy breading that was seasoned. Inside, the risotto was somewhere between firm and soft, so it was quite easy to eat and had silky texture. There was plenty of cheese inside that was melted and quite stringy. Underneath, the marinara sauce was tangy with a bit of sweetness.
Another classic dish was the Mediterranean Calamari. This one is the Italian version and really, it has been debated if the fried version is Italian or Greek. Well, both have grilled, stewed and fried dishes. Whatever the case, this was good where the calamari was tender with a slight rebound texture. The light batter was crispy and properly seasoned. It came with a lemon aioli and a fresh herb tartar sauce. Both were good, and depended on whether you liked a tangier dip or more herbaeceous one.
I'm pretty sure the Galician Free-Range Chicken Wings were on the menu to satisfy local tastes. However, with us choosing the Mediterranean herb flavour, it could be considered Hungarian-style. Of course one could order them as BBQ, garlic or Buffalo-style as well. These were well-prepared wings with a crispy exterior and rendered skin. No flabby skin on these ones and they were well-seasoned too. Inside, the meat was tender and moist.
Our last appetizer or small plate was the Rollatini Di Melanzane which consisted of baked eggplant rolls stuffed with ricotta and mozzarella in a marinara sauce. This was quite familiar as it had similar elements to an eggplant parmigiana. I happen to love that dish and this was no exception. It had a tangy tomato sauce with plenty of ricotta and melted mozzarella on top. The slices of eggplant were tender, but not mushy.
Onto our main dishes, we had the Amber Road Cheeseburger. Once again, this was mainly catered for those less adventurous. However, it was a solid burger with a nicely charred grass-fed beef patty that was lean and meaty. Some melted Swiss cheese helped add some European content while the portobello mushroom provided another layer of meatiness and earthiness. That thick-cut bacon was lean with big flavour. This could be had with a beer for only $20.00 on Tuesdays!
Heading over to Executive Chef Jaroslaw Faryna's native Poland, we had the Galician Pierogis. These were really good with a thin dumpling wrapper that was tender with appealing elasticity. Inside, we found a creamy and soft potato and cheese filling which was plenty flavourful on its own. However, it sat on a bed of creamy and thick sour cream while topped with crispy guanciale. Classic salty bacon vibes with sour cream.
Sitting in a rich champagne and saffron cream with fresh herbs, the Mediterranean Lobster Ravioli featured a firm house-made pasta that was still cooked through. I found the filling slightly dense, but still impactful in terms of lobster essence. I found the sauce to be heavy, so a little went a long way. I did like the addition of champagne as it provided a bit of brightness. The little smattering of ikura did add little pops of brininess.
Going with some of the biggest hits, we head to Austria with the Viennese Schnitzel. This was a pretty thick piece of pork cutlet which was quite meaty and firm. The breading was not too thick and fairly crispy. It was topped with a runny sunny side egg and bacon. That in itself made things a bit breakfast-like, but hey, that is how I like it! We found tender red cabbage and hasselback potatoes complementing the schnitzel.
One of my favourites from the meal was the Crown Roast of Lamb. This featured 4 Frenched lamb chops that were grilled to about medium. They were juicy and super tender. Maybe it is because I love eating lamb that I didn't consider it too gamy. Although properly seasoned and sauced, the carrot-ginger puree really added a bright sweetness and bite. On the side, we found a beautiful potato gratin that was layered with tender slices that had crispy edges.
Arriving with 2 really large and meaty bones, the Braised BBQ Ribs had some Romanian inspiration with a smoky tomato coffee sauce. This had plenty of depth with the smoked paprika and slight aromatic bitterness of the coffee. The ribs super tender where the meat had not shrunk considerably. This way, it retained more moisture and the meat maintained its structure and didn't tighten up. This was served with some fries and slaw.
One of the more surprising dishes was the Classic Beef Wellington. Despite the flaky pastry being a touch dense in spots, the entirety of Wellington was well-executed. Firstly, the beef tenderloin was a perfect medium-rare. It was soft with its juices intact. I know this might be bold to say, but I enjoyed this one more than Gordon Ramsey's version at the River Rock (mind you, the one in Vegas was better). Veggies were also good being cooked just enough.
Onto the sweets, we tried all of them including the Limoncello Tiramisu. Loved the light and creamy mascarpone that was balanced in terms of sweetness. Ladyfingers were soft and moist without being soggy. Of course the bright citrus flavour of the limoncello was welcomed as well as just a touch of booziness. Some lemon rind on top provide an extra hit of lemon and slight bitterness.
Hands-down, my favourite dessert was the Flambéed Crêpe à La Mode. The thin and tender crêpe was delicate with an appealing elasticity. It was buttery and caramelized. Inside, we found some sweet slices of apple and pear. On the outside, this was topped with a black currant compote and a scoop of ice cream. Sure, with all these components, the dessert ate on the sweeter side, but it was still balanced.
One can't get anymore classic than a Crème Brûlée. This was indeed a textbook version with a silky custard that was aromatic but not all that sweet. Perfect really since it allowed the on point torched layer of sugar on top to do the heavy-lifting. That it did with a proper thickness and uniform texture. It cracked with a firm strike with our spoon. There was definite caramel vibes and just the slightest of smokiness.
*All food and beverages were complimentary*
The Good:
- The unique European dishes stand out
- Large portions
- Comfortable and upscale dining space
The Bad:
- To satisfy all customers, there is forced fusion of more recognizable dishes (totally understandable being in a mainstream hotel)
Since we arrived before the 6:00pm cutoff for Happy Hour, we quickly ordered some starters for the table. We began with the Shortrib Croquettes with romesco, parsley and pickled shallots. Although appealingly crispy on the outside, the shortrib and potato mixture was devoid of impactful flavours. In fact, the peppers in the romesco were dominant. The sauce itself was really good and did provide something to make up for that missing seasoning. Next, we got a couple orders of the Triple Cooked Fries with aioli. This was pretty good with firmly crunchy fries. Inside, there was a touch of potatoness left albeit on the drier side. But that is nit-picking because they were good.
Beautifully-plated, the Roasted Cauliflower was cooked to perfection. Fully done, but still retaining a firm crunch, the slightly smoky cauliflower was accented by lemon, almonds and salsa verde. The acidity of the lemon really came through adding a brightness to the dish. As for the salsa verde, it was supremely fresh and vibrant, yet a touch heavy with the dill. We ended up only ordering one of the Seared Humboldt Squid before the happy hour cutoff. This was a mistake because the squid couldn't have been prepared any better. Tender and buttery, the squid showed a great rebound texture. I found that the puttanesca was all that the squid needed as it provided a garlicky salty brininess to the dish. However, there was a bit too much olive, which was a bit overpowering.
Not finished with the appies, we ordered the Beef Tartare with truffle, parmesan aioli, parsley oil and potato chips. I found the meat to be visually appealing due to its colour indicating freshness. Also, the quality of the meat afforded the relatively large hand dice. It was buttery, tender and not overdressed. I could get the truffle and shallots and when combined with the parm and parsley, the beef was still allowed to be the star. Now that was good, but the Steelhead Crudo was even better. In a beautiful shade of red-orange, it couldn't have been any more buttery. Although maple balsamic was in the description of the dish, I really didn't get any hint of it. Rather, I did enjoy the dill creme fraiche as well as the fine herbs. Again, this was not seasoned that aggressively, but it ultimately worked due to the quality of the fish.
Our last 2 small dishes included my personal favourite being the Grilled Pork Saddle with sprout leaf slaw and mustard seed jus. Sporting an attractive char on the outside, the pork saddle was delicious on its own. Texturally, the fatty meat was super tender and practically melted in our mouths. I found the mustard seed jus to be relatively mild, yet strong enough to provide a touch of tang and savouriness. The side of slaw was not as acidic as I would've hope, but it provided a light crunch. Blessed with plenty of lardons and parmesan, the Fried Brussels Sprouts were texturally on point. While completely cooked through, the sprouts were still firm on the inside. There was plenty of saltiness to go around, but I would've liked to see some form of acidity or even spice to provide layers of flavour.
Onto the larger dishes, we had the fantastic House-Made Fettuccine with clams, preserved lemon, tarragon and leeks. Not sure if you can properly see, but there was far more fresh whole clams than pasta itself. That meant there was a noticeable brininess to go with the olive oil. I found the pasta to be appealingly al dente while the clams were buttery and cooked right. The brightness of the tarragon and leeks really came through. I thought this was one of the stronger dishes of the meal. Expertly-prepared, the Whole Deboned Trout was as perfect as it could be. Soft and super moist, the butterflied trout sat in a considerable amount of brown butter which afforded a nutty luxuriousness. Even the roasted green beans with almonds were perfectly crunchy and vibrant.
Moving from seafood to meat, we had Parmesan-Crusted Veal Chop with brown butter caper sauce and an arugula & cherry tomato salad on the side. Once again, the meat here was done right being juicy, tender and moist. On the outside, the crust was nutty and flavourful. Loved the capers as they added necessary saltiness. Add in the charred lemon and it helped cut through the butter. I loved how the arugula was aggressively dressed as there was a sweet tanginess. Lastly, we tried the Short Rib with polenta, beef chutney and spiced wine jus. The short rib itself was fall-off-the-bone tender and moist. Moreover, the polenta was creamy and went well with the beef chutney. However, the overall flavour profile was a bit odd from the spices used. A bit too nutty? Whatever the case, I thought the proteins were spot on here as well as the veggies. Seasoning could be more balanced or even more aggressive for some dishes (although I was okay with it).
It's been awhile since I've been back to Chambar. I guess return visits generally get put on hold as new restaurants take precedent. Furthermore, with prices on the higher end of the Vancouver restaurant spectrum, repeat visits to Chambar might make my bank account look sad. But for Viv and I, this was to be the place we would celebrate our anniversary. I really can't believe she's put up with me all these years. She's still waiting for the maturity to kick in. Too bad really because I know it will never come...
Now located several stores up from its original location, Chambar is more spacious and larger, yet still maintains the same ambiance as before. We began our meal with their famous Moules Frites with the Coquotte option (with white wine, cream, smoked bacon lardons, white onions and spring onion). As expected, this dish was a winner with plump mussels sitting in an aromatic and impactful broth. What I liked most was the balance of flavours without a heavy reliance on salt. Rather, the bacon added the necessary smoky savouriness which went well with the sweet onions and properly cooked down wine. Served on the side was their frites which were hot and crispy while retaining a soft potato texture inside. For our second apply, we shared the Tartare de Beouf consisting of espelette, caramelized morels, mustard greens, spruce aioli, cipollini onion rings and a Parmesan crisp. We found the beef to be buttery and completely melt-in-our-mouths smooth. There was a good kick from the espelette as well as a crunch from the greens. When eaten atop the Parm crisp, the salt content elevated the flavours even more so.
Onto our mains, I had Le Steak du Jours with char grilled BC prime beef, smoked cheddar croquettes, pickles, green beans, pepper jam and chimichurri. I asked for the rib-eye to be prepared medium-rare and it was flawlessly executed. Crusted with peppercorns and rosemary, there was an aromatic pepperiness to each bite. Underneath, there was a bright and smooth chimichurri that added just enough herbaceous bite without overwhelming. On the side, the crispy and relatively light croquettes were aggressively spiked with rosemary while kicked up a notch with the spicy pepper jam. The green beans were barely done exhibiting a vibrant and sweet crunch. For Viv, she opted for the Fletan au Tamarin consisting of Haida Gwaii halibut, sea asparagus, sweet peas, mustard greens, spicy tapioca and jalapeño pistou in a tomato tamarind broth. As much as most of the halibut was flaky and moist, the edges were a bit dry. We loved the expert preparation of the veggies as they were sweet and fresh. However, we felt the dish lacked balance as there were too many tart components such as tamarind, tomato, mustard greens and jalapeno. Therefore, we didn't find anything that stood up to the dominant flavours.
For dessert, we went for something light in the Aerated Cheesecake with graham cracker streusel, fresh and sherry compressed strawberries, strawberry sorbet, lemon, long pepper, and basil. This was a substantial dessert that was fortunately very easy to eat. Creamy, extremely cheesy and mildly sweet, the cheesecake was accented by the sweet and tart strawberries. The sorbet added not only another layer of strawberry, but a contrast in temperature as well. Despite the overly tart halibut dish, Chambar met our expectations with carefully prepared food combined with attentive (while not overly intrusive) service. Yes, prices are high, but we left happy.
We got things going with 2 appies including the surprisingly good Grilled Vancouver Island Octopus with capicola, fingerling potato salad, carrot & citrus emulsion and pickled mustard seeds. Tender with an appealing chew, the octopus was lightly seasoned where it could've used a bit more salt. However, the rest of the ingredients picked up the slack with nice hits of acidity, sweetness and saltiness. There was a hint of smokiness which we never did figure out from where. Although not a major issue, the cold capicola slices seemed a bit lifeless (maybe a slight sear?).
Next, we had the appetizer portion of the Salish Sea Mussels in a Moroccan broth consisting of harissa, piperade, preserved lemon and mint. As much as this was a pleasantly aromatic and somewhat spicy concoction, it could've been even more so. The flavours were probably more conservative so that it would appeal to a wider audience. As for the mussels themselves, they were fairly plump and cooked just enough. We also added a side of hand-cut Kennebec Frites with aioli. These were hot, crispy and almost fluffy inside. They were aggressively salted and were fine on their own, even without the aioli.
For my entree, I had the Oven Roasted Halibut Filet with faro risotto, wild mushroom, grilled leek, Swiss chard and rhubarb. Without exaggeration, this piece of fish was prepared almost flawlessly being flaky and moist with a crispy sear. In addition to the perfect execution, the fish itself was fresh (which helped the cause as frozen halibut has a habit of drying out) and well-seasoned. Underneath, the faro was toothsome while the chard was barely kissed by a hot pan. As for Viv, she chose the Bouillabaisse consisting of Salish sea mussels, fresh fish, saffron & tomato broth and rouille on a crostini. We found the broth lightly tomatoey while mild all-around including only a background briny essence. The seafood was mostly on point except for the overcooked salmon.
Mr. (as Joyce likes to call him) had the Seared Albacore Tuna with chickpea panisse, roasted peppers, green olive, crudité vegetables and smoked tuna aioli. This was a bountiful dish with expertly prepared tuna that was uniformly seared with a buttery soft rare centre. With a sprinkle of salt, this was simple, yet naturally flavoured. Interestingly, the chickpea panisse almost had a polenta quality. Joyce ended up with the 8 oz Heritage Angus Flank Steak with gratin potatoes, smoked bone marrow, broccoli, aged cheddar and braised shallot. Although the steak itself was beautifully medium-rare and sufficiently tender, there was a piece of sinew that made things chewy. We couldn't detect any smoked bone marrow in any components of the dish (we suspected the demi-glace). The potato pave was neatly constructed with tender layers, but a bit more cheese and cream would've added a bit more moisture.
Joyce opted for the Lemon Tart with basil crème fraiche, strawberry curd and brown butter shortbread. Although the shortbread crust was buttery and slightly nutty, it could've been more firm. Inside, the lemon curd was appealingly tart while on the denser side of creamy. The drops of basil crème fraiche were nice while the strawberry curd drops were tasty, but strangely not strawberry tasting. A minor complaint would be the chewy dehydrated strawberry slices. Mr. went for the Brown Butter Financier with chamomile, honey yogurt, kumquat marmalade and crushed pecan. The cake itself was on the denser side, yet exhibited a decent moistness with a crispy exterior crust. It wasn't overly buttery, but there was a certain nuttiness, especially with the pecans. We loved the marmalade as it was not overly sweet nor tart. Overall, I was pretty surprised with the food (especially the mains) at Tapenade. Not sure why it took so long to try it.
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