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For 6 years, Viv and I lived almost directly across the street from La Terrazza in Yaletown. In fact, we would walk by the place often when we headed into the heart of Downtown or to events at BC Place and Rogers Arena (it was GM Place back then...). But did we ever eat there? Nada. Let's just say that we were partly scared away by the high prices and partly taking it for granted. Yah, it'll always be there, we can eat there anytime... 8 years later and we no longer live nearby, but yes, that meant we finally made it for dinner...
Elaine and Costanza joined us for this long awaited meal on a night that also featured a football game (of the soccer variety) and a concert nearby. The fact we got a free parking spot just steps away was a miracle (or was it my persistent Asian belief that we shouldn't pay to park?). Anyways, we started with a few appies including Calamari e Gamberi (grilled Humboldt squid, crispy baby calamari, Tiger prawns and toasted garlic with a chili lime reduction). The ample amount of baby calamari was tender while crispy on the outside where the batter was well-seasoned. Underneath lay a slice of Humboldt squid which exhibited a spongy tenderness. With a lingering spice and slight acidity, the chili lime reduction complimented the ingredients well. Next up was the Funghi Pizzetta comprised of wild mushrooms, black truffle purée and quattro formaggi sauce. Resembling a cannoli shell, the crust was thin, firmly crispy and light. There was a plethora of tender mushrooms that added to the existing explosion of truffle and cheese.
We added a pasta as well because we couldn't possibly get out of there without trying it. So we decided on the Bucatini with truffled bison meat balls, smoked bacon, asparagus tips alla carbonara. This was a no brainer for us as we wanted something more toothsome and besides, Costanza loves anything carbonara. Our expectations were met with this dish as the bucatini was a firm al dente and it stood up well to the creamy carbonara sauce. In addition, it was sufficiently salty where it provided the necessary flavour without being overwhelming. As for the meatballs, they were meaty with little filler while sporting little nuggets of bison throughout. There was no mistaking the truffle where it might've been a little too strong for the dish. As a side, we added the Polenta Fries which were fantastic in our opinion. Lightly crispy on the outside while creamy and fluffy on the inside, these were everything that I envisioned them to be. I especially enjoyed the proper amount of seasoning including the saltiness of the Parmesan.
Onto our mains, I had the Agnello or oven roasted rack of lamb, crusted in grainy Dijon, roasted potato and vegetable terrine with green mint pea purée. Prepared on the more rare side, the lamb was succulent and tender. It wasn't overly-seasoned where the natural roasted lamb flavour was discernible. I found the pea purée sweet, but was balanced off by the salty demi. I wasn't a huge fan of the potato and vegetable terrine as it wasn't impactful in terms of flavour. As for the texture, the potato was firm while the veggies were soft. Costanza went big with the Costata (wait, that sounds like his nickname...) consisting of a 10 oz. grilled Sterling Silver beef rib eye, buttermilk fried onion rings, roasted mushrooms and green peppercorn sauce. This was a substantial amount of food that even he couldn't finish. He requested for medium-rare and it ended up being more to the medium side. However, that didn't hinder its tenderness. The meat ate really well, especially for a rib-eye. We would've preferred that it wasn't pre-cut though as it lost some of its moisture. In addition to the natural rib-eye flavour, the mushrooms and demi added an woodsy saltiness.
For the ladies, Elaine ended up with the Merluzzo with oven-roasted sable fish panko encrusted, black kale, chive potato cake and white truffle – lemon vinaigrette. Presented high on the plate, it was visually appealing especially with an array of colours. The fish itself was flaky and firm with a crispy crust. We liked how it wasn't aggressively-seasoned so that the fish could stand on its own. Soft, yet with discernible layers, the potato cake was nicely herbed. The chewy kale was hit with a considerable amount of truffle oil, which wasn't really that necessary. Viv opted for the Anatra consisting of pan-seared Fraser Valley duck breast, roasted summer vegetable and goat cheese tart, wild arugula and sherry wine reduction. Sporting a flavourful brine which also ensured its buttery succulence, the duck was a tad salty. The skin was nicely rendered and prepared with an appealing colour. We found the goat cheese tart, mild (not too gamy) and creamy with soft spinach. As for the reduction, it was slightly sweet with a background acidity.
For dessert, we shared La Creazione and Torta D'Amore. Wrapped in phyllo, the mascarpone cheesecake was soft, while not particularly creamy. It was plenty cheesy with a moderate amount of sweetness. The phyllo was nicely crisp as a textural contrast. The Amarena cherries and strawberry coulis added some fruity sweetness as well as a touch of acidity. Universally, we preferred the Torta D'Amore more (warm decadent chocolate cake, lava-like centre and vanilla bean gelato) as it was decadent and nicely executed. As much as lava-type chocolate cakes are pretty standard (see the movie Chef), this was enjoyable nonetheless. It was rich, sweet, chocolaty and dense (in a good way) with a molten centre. The gelato helped cool things off nicely. Well, this meal was a long time coming... It was much better than anticipated with generally pleasant food in relatively large portion sizes. Yes, the prices are still quite high, but at the very least, we bought a coupon that helped things out.
The Good:
- Decent portion sizes
- Pleasant food
- Attentive service
The Bad:
- High pricing
- A little aggressive with the truffle oil
There was a time where Earl's was the butt of many of my jokes. I remember that once I had visited the Robson location and had a steak that was accompanied by 5, count'em 5 button mushrooms. For the money I paid, the food was decent, but hardly a good value. When Cactus Club upped the ante with the hiring of Rob Feenie as a "food concept architect", it left similar chain restaurants in the dust. Finally, Earl's has gotten with the times and hired some heavy hitters of their own with Chefs Dawn Doucette, David Wong, Hamid Salimian, Jeff McInnis and Tina Fineza helping to create new and innovative dishes. I was invited to sample their new fall menu at either the Langley or Yaletown location. I chose Langley because partly I love the burbs and also the fact Chef Hamid would be attending (the guy is a rock-star IMO).
Prior to the eats, we were able to sample all of their Craft Sodas including (left-to-right) Elderflower, Ginger Beer, Passion Fruit, Lemongrass Orange Blossom and Raspberry Lime Leaf. Since these were made in-house with locally-made syrups, the sweetness level was kept to a minimum. Hence, they were refreshing and drank more like a non-alcoholic spritzer with an added flavour. I particularly liked the Passion Fruit as it reminded me of Koala Springs (now that's going way back!). With witty taglines stenciled on top, the Clover Club No. 4 drank nicely with a combination of Smirnoff vodka, raspberry cordial, cranberry juice, egg whites and lemongrass syrup. With all the sugary ingredients, this was quite sweet with the finish of lemongrass. With a pine cone and mint on top and served in a camping cup, the Cabin Fever (Crown Royal, Taylor Fladgate Port, ginger syrup, pineapple juice and Moondog Bitters) was a lot lighter than it sounded (especially being double). Watch out, you can get easily drunk on this one...
Food-wise, we were started off with the Lobster & Prawn Roll served in a butter-toasted brioche square. Suffice to say, it was indeed buttery and appealingly crispy on the outside while soft and airy on the inside. The mix of lobster, prawn, capers, parsley and lemon aioli was not too heavy. Hence, the lobster and prawn were highlighted rather than hidden with just the right amount of acidity and salt. Next up was their take on BBQ Pork Buns that looked like a hybrid between a Taiwanese pork belly bun and a Cantonese BBQ pork bun. Inside the soft mantou, there was a mix of shredded slow-cooked pork, hoisin hot sauce, cilantro, roasted peanuts and scallions. I found the whole mixture to be a bit too sweet with only a touch of heat. Other than that, it was pretty good as the pork was super soft while the peanuts added crunch.
Arriving a long and massive plate, the Mediterranean Calamari was as anti-Earl's (the former version) as something could get. First of all, for $13.00, this was enough food to share with 4 people as an appy. Second, it was presented in a unique manner with cucumber, Spanish olives, peppers, tomatoes, radish, basil and Greek citrus yogurt rather than just plain with tzatziki. Although the squid was super tender and moist, the batter was a bit thick where it became a touch cumbersome. I liked the yogurt, but the rest of the ingredients looked nice but sorta just sat there without a whole lot of impact. Onto my favourite dish of the night, we tried the Crispy Thai Prawns served in a bowl with napa cabbage, lime, Thai basil, mint, cilantro paint, sweet + sour glaze, Serrano peppers and roasted peanuts. When mixed together, there was a veritable flavour explosion that hit me with a vengeance. There was a little of everything from the acidity of the lime, heat from the serrano peppers and sweet and sour from the glaze in addition to the herbs. The prawns themselves were cold-water crunchy with a light tempura batter.
Onto the Oven Roasted Salmon, it was accompanied by grilled corn, olive oil marinated fennel salad, baby new potatoes and jalapeno cilantro puree. With a beautiful crispy skin, the salmon itself was moist and flaky. It was only mildly seasoned with some salt where the fish itself could stand out. That meant the rest of the ingredients were not overbearing including the mild puree that only provided a light sweet heat. Presented in an avant-garde fashion (possibly plating gone wild...), the BBQ Back Ribs were melt-in-my-mouth tender with a touch of fat. The BBQ sauce was sweet and tangy that could've used a bit more smoke. I loved the crispy potatoes as opposed to the potato salad found on the regular menu offering.
Our one meatless dish was the Thai Vegetable Bowl that featured a bed of quinoa topped with snap peas, cauliflower, eggplant, gai lan, peanuts and crispy onions in a coconut and lemongrass broth. This was as aromatic as it sounded with the definite taste of coconut milk and the sharpness of lemongrass. However, I thought that a touch more salt was needed to bring the rest of the flavours alive. As for the veggies, they were still vibrant and crisp. For dessert, we were served a trio including Chocolate Hazelnut Bar, Warm Chocolate Sticky Toffee Pudding and Pumpkin Pie. I thought the bar was rich and smooth with a nice hint of bitterness at the end. The flavours were amped by both the salted caramel and maldon salt on top. As with any sticky toffee pudding, this one was sweet. However, it wasn't sickingly so. It was soft, rich and had depth of flavour with a hint of smokiness. As much as I do not prefer pumpkin pie, I liked this one as the pumpkin puree was nicely spiced and easy on the sugar. The Chantilly cream was creamy and light. As you can see, Earl's is making a concerted effort to up their game against places like Cactus Club and Milestone's. Although chain restaurant dining has never been my first choice, it is nice to see that the portion sizes, creativity and overall execution is moving in the right direction here.
*All food, drinks and gratuities were comped*
The Good:
- Portion sizes are fair for the price
- Mirroring the competition, Earl's is trying to be more innovative
- Some bold new flavours
The Bad:
- Trying to balance innovation with pleasing the traditional customer leads to sometimes muted risk-taking
Typically, I get many restaurant suggestions from friends, readers and those posing as readers (yes, I get those too...). It's not often I get an outright tip from Sherman. Wait, am I talking to myself in the mirror again? No, I haven't lost it or I am referring to myself in the 3rd person, rather, a friend of mine named Sherman told me about this mom n' pop Japanese restaurant tucked away in a strip mall off Columbia in New West. Wasting no time, I enlisted the help of fine New West resident Big D to help with this food adventure.
We began with Deluxe Charaishi Don that was neatly arranged. We found the fish to have a nice sheen and fresh smell. There wasn't anything out-of-sorts. Although the rice started off a bit moist, within a few minutes, it was the right chewy texture. It was mildly seasoned. For our specialty roll, we decided against getting anything based on a California Roll, hence, we had the Fire Dragon Roll comprised of spicy tuna topped with BBQ unagi. With an attractive sear, the ample amount of unagi was buttery soft, sweet and smoky. Inside, the large chunks of tuna were only mildly spicy. We found the sushi rice to be firm while chewy and lightly seasoned.
We then moved onto some more familiar maki sushi consisting of a Chopped Scallop Roll and Negitoro. As evidenced in the pictures, little buttery nuggets of scallop were bursting out from the roll as there was only a thin layer of rice. Hence, the roll ate well and tasted sweet on its own. On the topic of taste, the negitoro was also flavourful without the aid of soy. There was a nice balance between the tuna and scallions. Lastly, the Assorted Tempura was crispy and light while not greasy. The veggies were the right thickness and doneness while the ebi were meaty with a light snap. Overall, from the dishes we sampled, Ikoi could be classified as a hidden gem. With all the available Japanese restaurants in town, it is hard to find one that serves up authentic food that is both high in quality and decent in portion size.
The Good:
- Carefully made food
- Friendly people
- Reasonably-priced
The Bad:
- Limited menu of sorts
It is no secret I'm a big fan of the Aburi Restaurants Canada with their high-end Japanese in both Miku and Minanmi. Despite the premium pricing, the combination of style, unique dishes and careful execution justify it (in my opinion). Recently opened, Gyoza Bar + Ramen is their new venture out on Pender in Downtown. It was only natural that I gathered the troops for this food adventure including Gyoza King (who is our resident expert on the dumpling).
The first item to arrive was the BC Wild Salmon Ceviche with Thai Chilis, jalapeno soy and celery. There was no denying the quality of the salmon as it exhibited a buttery firm texture while sporting a noticeable natural sweetness. However, the promise of spice was really more of a sputter as it really wasn't impactful. We understood that it shouldn't overwhelm the delicate salmon, but this wasn't even close. Next was the Aburi Pork Char Sui with sous-vide egg and crostinis. If the last dish wasn't lively, then this one just flat-lined. With diced up semi-firm and dry pork topped with a silky egg, this dish was left wanting for any hit of flavour. Even with the squeeze of lime, there wasn't much to bring this to life.
Onto their signature dish being the Teppan Gyoza, we got both the small and large size. Both should've been super crispy and mind-blowing due to the pictures and description on the menu. However, someone should've told the kitchen... These arrived looking very much like any other gyoza. Yes, there was little nuggets of crispiness here and there, but it didn't deliver on the promise and it certainly didn't look like the picture. As for the good news, the dumpling skin was thin, tender and appealing (although it was overdone though). As for the filling, it was meaty with a good mix of cabbage. I particularly liked dipping them into the Spicy Garlic Soy as it added a good kick.
We also sampled their specialty gyoza including the Miso Short Rib with feta, pickled peppers, zucchini and jalapeno soy glaze. Again sporting that thin delicate wrapper, this was actually better in texture than the teppan gyoza. Inside, it was filled with moist short rib that was only mildly seasoned. As much as I liked this, the filling was a bit one-note in texture. Second, we tried the Chili Shrimp and Pickled Daikon with soy marinated ikura and wasabi chimichurri. It resembled a Chinese dumpling where the bits of shrimp were cold-water crunchy and sweet. But overall, there wasn't a whole lot of flavour. I guess that was forgivable since shrimp is delicate, yet there wasn't even the spice as promised.
Whipping Girl and I decided to go for their Tomato-Saffron Seafood Ramen with mussels, clams, scallop, prawn, chicken and char siu. The initial sip of the soup yielded a strong aromatic saffron taste that hit our tastebuds like a Mack truck. Then it gave way to the tang of the tomato, but unfortunately ended extremely salty. We did like the seafood as it was properly prepared and not overcooked. We weren't big fans of the yellow noodle as it was overly firm and lacked cohesion with the broth - it kinda just sat in the broth disconnected from the dish. Milhouse went for the Free Range Chicken Broth with Awase Triple Miso, chicken char siu and tamago. There was no mistaking the chicken essence in the broth. Furthermore, the miso added a savoury sharpness to the broth that wasn't overly salty, but it ultimately did end off that way. Remarkably, the slices of chicken were succulent and tender.
Gyoza King was not only here for the gyozas, but also for the Free Range Chicken Broth with Mediterranean Salt. It helped highlight the rich chicken flavour more without the distraction of the miso. However, it also meant it was pretty salty from start to finish. As for the chicken, it was exactly like the other version. Bear had the Pork Tonkotsu Broth which was the least salty of the bunch. That didn't mean there wasn't any flavour though as it was porky, although not silky. The char siu wasn't exactly chewy, but it wasn't melt-in-his mouth tender either. He thought it was a decent attempt. Now that brings up a dilemma though. For the prices they charge ($17.00 for the Saffron Broth), is decent or "good" enough? For quite a few of us, the answer was no.
The Good:
- Despite the overwhelmingly negative reviews, the food is actually decent
- Service was attentive
- Nice vibe
The Bad:
- Expensive
- Food is decent, but the prices are not
With a name like Stake, one could only assume one of 2 things - either it is Dracula's worst nightmare or it is a play on words regarding grilled beef. Well, in reality, neither is true these days, especially after the re-branding of the Boulevard Casino, now known as the Hard Rock Casino. Granted, I never had the urge to visit the place before receiving a recent invitation. Why? Well, the reviews were horrible and humbly confirmed by new Executive Chef Matthew Richmond (formerly of the Westin Grand). Yup, those reviews were bang on as the food was not very good. Now with the backing of the Hard Rock, there has been a revamp and a commitment to sourcing out local ingredients.
With that in mind, Miss Y and myself headed out to nearby Coquitlam (yes, we live in the burbs) to check the place out. We began with the Beet Trio featuring candy cane, red and golden beets, blueberry goat cheese mousse, pea greens, walnut wafer and golden beet dressing. At first, the blue goat cheese threw me off due to its strange colour. But it tasted a whole lot better than it looked with a light salty creaminess and the subtle sweetness of the blueberries. The beets were lightly pickled which provided a zing in addition to its inherent Earthiness. Interestingly, the walnut wafer was not just a garnish as it was lightly crispy, nutty and savoury. Next up was Stake's Signature Smoked Crispy Pork Belly with green pea puree, butter braised white aspargus, tomato confit and apple bourbon jus. The Sakura pork belly exhibited a light smoke while the crackling was nicely rendered and crispy. There was a natural pork flavour with only a light brine. The meat itself was succulent while not exactly melt-in-my-mouth since most of the fat was rendered. I found the asparagus to be tender while still firm while the tomato to be plump and tart.
Moving on, we were presented with the Pacific Halibut with King oyster mushrooms, braised in abalone sauce, preserved olive, green beans, eggplant and wilted pea greens. Although the flaky halibut sported a golden sear, the fish itself was overdone, hence being dry. The fish was not seasoned very much, but that didn't matter as the rest of the dish featured far too much sodium. The preserved olives were extremely salty and took over the dish. We did enjoy the mushrooms though as they were plump and infused with a good amount of aromatic and salty abalone sauce. Onto a vegetarian option, we were served the Pan-Seared Truffle Polenta with leek fondue, ratatouille, thyme glazed portabella and garlic cream. Believe it or not, this was one of my favourite dishes of the night. Well, the fact that I personally love polenta didn't hurt either. However, it was beautifully seared with a golden brown crispy exterior that yielded a fluffy and appealingly salty Parmesan spiked interior. The ratatouille underneath was vibrant and fresh.
Finally, we made it to the red meat dish being the 6 oz. Seared Beef Tenderloin with Golden Ears Emmental fondant potato, glazed beets, crisp leek, truffle foam and jus. As illustrated in the picture, the tenderloin was prepared a beautiful medium-rare sporting a well-seared exterior. Suffice to say, the meat was buttery soft while accented by the red wine jus. As for the foam, I didn't notice much truffle or impact. The tender potatoes were spiked with cheesiness by the slightly browned Emmental. For dessert, we had the Chocolate Marquise with Irish cream Anglaise, chocolate pearls and raspberry coulis. This was a creamy and rich concoction which was purposefully sweet with plenty chocolaty goodness. I would've liked to see more bitterness at the end, but it was good nonetheless. Overall, we enjoyed our meal despite the halibut course. Considering the prices are at or below higher-end chain restaurants (ie. Cactus Club and Milestone's), Stake offers up another choice in the Coquitlam area.
*All food, beverages and gratuities were comped*
The Good:
- Decent eats
- Well-priced
- Tastefully appointed decor
The Bad:
- Somehow, the exterior doesn't look all that inviting
- Halibut dish was overcooked and overseasoned
It is by no coincidence that I have only one post for the Maple Ridge/Pitt Meadows area. I'm just not around there very much other than going to the Laity Pumpkin Patch or playing golf at Golden Ears. Hence, my eating adventures stop right before the Pitt River Bridge. However, I recently received an invite to try Kisoji Japanese Kitchen near Lougheed at Harris Road. Really, it wasn't for the complimentary food anyways because the gas kinda negated it. Rather, I was really curious to see how they fared all-the-way-out-there.
To help Viv and I put a dent into the menu, we included the ever-so-present Whipping Girl. We started with the Maguro Tataki Salad featuring seared tuna, wild greens, taro chips and house vinaigrette. We found the tuna to be prepared just right with a thin sear on the outside. The fish itself was firm while soft to chew. Tangy and purposefully acidic, the vinaigrette complimented but did not overwhelm. Despite being thin and crispy, the taro chips could've been smaller as they were clunky to eat with the rest of the ingredients. Next up was the Ebi Mayo served in a cup. The batter was a bit thick, yet at the same time, it wasn't heavy. It reminded us of Chinese fried shrimp (which wasn't a bad thing, just an observation). The shrimp itself was meaty with a slight snap while offering up a natural sweetness. On top, there was a slightly spicy, tangy and sweet mayo.
Onto something familiar but presented in their own way was the Salmon Oshi. Featuring pressed sushi with seared salmon and wasabi mayo on top, this was somewhat similar to the one found at Miku but not. I found the pressed sushi rice to be a touch too firm while mildly seasoned. The salmon on top was buttery and sweet while nicely accented by the wasabi mayo and lime. There was a creaminess to the mayo where the wasabi was ever-so-slight while the lime added a nice acidity. Next up was the Stuffed Mushrooms featuring shiitake and diced prawns fried in tempura batter served with ginger tempura sauce. This featured plenty of shiitake flavour and sweetness from the prawns. We found the filling to be a bit stiff though. The exterior was lightly crunchy and not greasy. The dip was essential as the stuffed mushrooms didn't inherently have a whole lot of seasoning.
Moving along, we had the Jack Cha Han served in hot stone bowl with salmon, shiitake mushroom, egg, pickled cucumber and fried rice. After I mixed all of the ingredients together, I pressed the rice to the sides so that it would form a crust. That it did where it was crunchy and nutty. The rice itself was chewy and flavourful in a savoury (while not salty) manner. Adding a lively crunch and tang, the pickles were the impactful ingredient. Surprisingly, the chunks of salmon retained some moisture and wasn't dry. Majestically plated in a box, the Assorted Chef's Selection Sashimi consisted of Atlantic Salmon, Albacore Tuna, Tako, Tai, Mackerel, Hamachi, Sockeye Salmon, Hokkigai and Ebi. This was an attractive selection that was as fresh as flash frozen can be. No issues here other than the overly chewy Tako.
Our last dish was the Momiji Maki consisting of chopped scallop, asparagus and fish roe with flame-seared assorted fish on top. Again, the sushi rice was on the firmer side and considerably chewy. We found the thick slices of fish on top to be buttery and smoky. The garlic mayo truly made an impact aromatically and taste-wise. At this point, we were pretty full and completely satisfied with our meal. It was a nice surprise to see this level of execution, especially out in Pitt Meadows. This restaurant could easily be in Vancouver and fit right in.
*All food was comped excluding gratuities*
The Good:
- Impressive eats, especially out in Pitt Meadows
- Clean, modern minimalistic decor
- Reasonably-priced
The Bad:
- Sushi rice was a tad firm
- Place is somewhat hidden from the street
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