ANA Lounge, Haneda Airport Terminal 3

Well, there we were...  At Haneda on our flight back to Vancouver, 20 days earlier than expected.  We were on a cruise around Japan, with a land portion of our trip afterwards.  However, on our stop in Busan, Korea, Viv broke her leg and that began the hectic and stressful journey to this point.  After being taken by ambulance to the hospital, where her leg was stabilized, we had to hightail it back to the cruise ship so we could pack and get off.  We stayed overnight in Busan and took a flight back to Tokyo via Fukuoka.  If it weren't for the outstanding support from airport staff and airline crew at Gimhae Airport, Fukuoka Airport, Korean Airlines and Japan Airlines, it would've been much more difficult.  Thankfully, I was able to change our original flight home on ANA and maintain the business class seats we had booked.  Little did we know that it would come in handy given Viv's broken leg.  We were well-taken care of and yes, we still made it to the ANA Lounge at Haneda before we departed.  Despite this ordeal, it truly was first-world problems and we are grateful.

Now back to the ANA Lounge at Haneda.  Even though it was large and seemed to stretch from miles, it was plenty full.  There were 2 separate food stations, one at the front and one at the back.  The one at the front was much more busy since it had the made-to-order food window.   As for the food at the buffet station, there was Vegetarian Mapo Tofu and Seafood Paella.  I would say the tofu was decent but a bit bland.  The paella was subpar, being a bit soft and also not seasoned enough.  We found a bunch of pastries and buns as well as Tuna Onigiri, Pearl Barley & Seaweed Rice Ball and Inarizushi.  Nothing wrong with these other than being heavy on the carbs and taking away your appetite from the good stuff!

Now for a little bit of protein in the Fried Chicken with a sweet soy glaze.  These were quite good being crispy while plenty juicy in the middle.  There was enough glaze for impact.  Next to it, we found some Siu Mai which were pretty generic.  Comprised of all pork, it was juicy enough, but it did taste quite "porky".  I think this would've tasted better with hot sauce than eating it plain.

I saved my appetite for the best things in my opinion.  We could help ourselves to the Chicken Curry and accompanying pickles.  Loved the rice machine as it dished up a serving of rice with a push of a button.  This was good where it was more curry-tasting than the usual Japanese sweet curries.  Rice was perfectly textured.  I ordered a Ramen and it was pretty decent for an airport lounge.  The broth was silky and mild-tasting.  Noodles were chewy while the chashu was fairly tender.

There was also a cooled station with some Finger Sandwiches, Fruit and Salad.  Nothing particularly exciting with these, but it was something light for those who didn't need a whole meal.  In general, the food at the ANA Lounge at Haneda Terminal 3 was good.  Lots of space, clean washrooms and a good assortment of food.  Made-to-order dishes were available and all types of beverages as well.  I think I might be revisiting this in July as we are heading back to Japan to complete our trip!

 

The Good:

- Decent selection of food

- Made-to-order dishes

- Large and enough capacity to handle a many passengers

 

The Bad:

- Most of the good seats will be taken during peak hours

- The front buffet station is rather cramped

 

Sushitei Hondoriten

Walking around the Hiroshima Hondori, we were debating where to eat for lunch.  We briefly considered one of the lineups for Okonomiyaki but we didn't have that much time.  Ichiran was another option, but been there, done that.  Finally, we settled on a local chain in Sushitei Hondoriten.  Sure, it isn't the most premier sushi in town, but with limited time, we were not being too picky.  After walking upstairs, we were quickly seated and after perusing the menu, it was pretty simple with a few sushi combos available. 

My daughter decided to go for her usual in the Seafood Chirashi.  This was fully-loaded with tamago, unagi, hamachi, salmon, shima aji, hotate, akami, snow crab, ebi, tako and ikura.  Yes, this was filling and plenty satisfying.  As you can see from the picture, things were fresh with a nice sheen.  Indeed it was as the flavours were clean and sweet.   Tamago on the lighter side and not as layered as we would've liked though.

My son ended up with the Ikura Kobore while I had the Variety Set.  Both were somewhat similar except for a few minor differences.  They both had unagi, ebi, mirugai, tamago, akami, shima aji, chutoro, ika, uni and ikura.  The difference was that the Variety Set had hamachi and salmon while the Ikura Kobore had more ikura.  Again, nicely constructed nigiri featuring clean flavours and textures.

For Viv, she had the Sushi & Tempura Set which included a Clam Red Miso Soup.  This was a rather large bowl and in fact, we all had one.  Nice rich and fermented flavours with plenty of umami without actually being salty.  Didn't get a lot of brininess, but the clams themselves were buttery.  As for the Tempura, the batter was super light and crispy.  Things were cooked just right.

For her sushi plate, she had tamago, ebi, salmon, ikura, unagi, ika, akami and hamachi.   What has said about the nigiri has already been said, but I thought this set was a good value consider it included the soup, tempura and sushi.  Overall, we were satisfied with the sushi we had at Sushitei and it was well-priced too.  Service was a bit hit and miss as we had a hard time getting more tea and water.  Otherwise, this is a good option for those who aren't too picky about their sushi restaurants.

The Good:

- Fresh

- Not expensive

- Easy to get a table

The Bad:

- Service was a bit hit and miss

Mister Donut

When we were in Kochi, we had noticed a lineup at Mister Donut.  If we had a bit more time, we would've gotten into that line for sure.  However, we needed to get back to the cruise ship.  Now on our stop in Hiroshima, we were passing by a Mister Donut location on our way to lunch.  Well, that was as good as anytime to get in line for some donuts!  The line moved fast and we ended up with 6 donuts.

To get a baseline for their mochi donuts, we had the Glazed Mochi Donut.  This was lightly coated, so it wasn't super sweet, yet at the same time, it was not flavourless either.  I found the donut itself to be aromatic and the texture was lightly chewy.  We got the Chocolate Glazed as well and since it was only partially coated, it wasn't very sweet and it allowed for the fried mochi donut essence to be more prominent. 

Their strawberry glazed donuts were pretty dominant in the display case.  We got the Mochi Strawberry Glazed as well as the Strawberry Glazed Yeast Donut.  In terms of the glaze, it was actually not as "Pocky"-tasting as I thought it would be.  Sure, it was sweet, but it also genuinely had some strawberry flavour to it, albeit on the creamier side.  The yeast donut was light but still had structure.

Yet, the best of them all was the Strawberry Cruller.  Due to the egginess, it was light with a crispy exterior.  With only half of the donut dipped in the glaze, it was also balanced in terms of sweetness.  Our last donut was the Chocolate with coconut.  This cake donut was fluffy and fairly light.  It was only mildly sweet and had the aromatics of coconut on the outside.  I would've liked toasted coconut, but it was still tasty with natural sweetness.  Overall, the donuts at Mister Donut weren't mind-blowing, but they did the trick and were not expensive.  Try at least one of their strawberry donuts.

The Good:

- Inexpensive

- Solid

- Just sweet enough

The Bad:

- Nothing mind-blowing

- Sometimes a lineup

Morimitsu's Sea Bream Rice and Yasubei (Hirome Market)

On our stop in Kochi, we visited their shopping district as well as their location of Daimaru.  We actually had a purpose there as Viv's only dressy sandals broke.  We were able to score something that was reasonably-priced and we made our way to the Hirome Market for some lunch.  We ended up at Morimitsu's Sea Bream Rice for Kochi's specialty, Katsuo no Tataki (or Seared Bonito).  There were many stalls in the market that served this dish, but in reality, we ended up at Morimitsu's because there was a table available.  You see, the certain tables are reserved for specific stalls only.

Naturally, we went straight for the Katsuo no Tataki in 2 forms.  The first was the Seared Bonito Rice Bowl and the second was the Seared Bonito Set Meal.  The beautiful bonito was lightly-seared and hence, it was still plenty rare in the middle.  Texturally, it was sort of buttery but definitely more meaty.  It was a bit smoky from its preparation while being lightly sweet.  I enjoyed how it wasn't fishy.  The side of soup was a clean-tasting sea bream and mountain yam.

To get some variety into our meal, we had the Sea Bream Sashimi Set Meal with the same accompaniments as the Seared Bonito.  With a beautiful sheen, the sea bream was fresh and naturally sweet.  It was a bit firm, yet still was easy to eat.  The side of cooked bonito was rather firm and chewy, but it was tasty with sweetened soy.  I liked the clean taste of the sea bream broth as it was lightly sweet and refreshing (even though it was a hot soup).

I went for a variation of the last set meal with the Torched Sea Bream on Rice.  If you can imagine, the texture on this was quite different where the slices of fish were almost buttery, yet still with a somewhat firm texture.  It was naturally sweet and had a fresh taste.  Nice char on the outside which was a bit smoky.  It was simply topped with nori and green onion, which added brightness and umami.  When mixed with the rice, it was a light meal.

Of course that wasn't enough food for me, so I had to get a Kochi specialty at the nearby Yusubei stall - Gyoza.  These were small little ones which were uniformly seared on the bottom.  Hence, they were crispy with a thin wrapper.  Inside, the meat and cabbage filling was almost airy and super light.  Really enjoyed these and we should've ordered more!  Gotta say that this was a fun experience, if not a bit chaotic.  It is part of the deal and we would do it again when in Kochi!

The Good:

- Fresh ingredients

- Reasonably-priced

- Nice people

The Bad:

- Finding a free table is nearly impossible, unless you stand by one and wait

Honke Ootako Dotonbori Honten 本家大たこ 道頓堀本店

Being back at Dotonbori, we wanted to see some more of the sights and hopefully do some shopping.  Yet, in reality, I just wanted to eat more food!  That brought me to one of the oldest Takoyaki shops in Honke Ootako.  Sure, they aren't the newest or sexiest of places at this very moment, but there usually isn't a lineup.  Yes, it is probably true that some of the other spots make a better Takoyaki, but I wanted to pay homage to one of the classics.

When we arrived, there was indeed no lineup and since it was pretty darn hot outside, it was a welcomed sight.  Of course I got some freshly made Takoyaki to go along with a cold Asahi.  Compared to the ones I've had in the past, these were filled with much more octopus.  They were light and fluffy with just the right amount of tangy and sweet sauce on the outside.  Having not tried the others in the area, I didn't have a lot to compare, but will do so when I'm in Osaka next.

 

We also got the one other thing on the menu which was the Okonomiyaki.  Yes, that is another item that Osaka is known for where they combine all of the ingredients, including the cabbage, into the mix.  This version turned out to be quite good with a certain airiness while still maintaining substance.  To go with the fluffiness, there was the crunch of the cabbage.  On top we found the sweet and tangy sauce as well as kewpie mayo and a boatload of bonito flakes.

 

While you already got the description of the Okonomiyaki already, I included this video of its preparation.  As you can see, everything is mixed into the batter, which is consistent with the Osaka version of the dish.  They make it to order, so everything is fresh and served hot.  We thought that both the Takoyaki and Okonomiyaki were quite good and despite place not being busy nor the newest and greatest, I think it is worth a visit while in Dontonbori. 

The Good:

- Usually no lineup

- Solid Takoyaki and Okonomiyaki IMO

- It has a seating area

The Bad:

- Possibly better elsewhere?

Honke Shibato 本家 柴藤

While in Osaka, we wanted some interesting eats and although we weren't in Nagoya, we wanted to get some Unadon (or some form of Hitsumabushi).  So why not visit one of the oldest spots in town?  Honke Shibato has been around since the Kyoho era (which is the early 1700s!) and dishes up authentic Osaka-style grilled eel.  This family-run operation is on its 15th generation It is pretty unique where the eel is crispy, firmer and isn't precooked prior to grilling.  They are on the pricier side, but hey, we were on vacation, budget doesn't count right??? (Yes, Viv was complaining about the prices...).

For my meal, it included a few starter items including Uzaku (Vinegared Unagi & Cucumber) and Umaki Tamago (Unagi Omelette).  Being tangy with some crunchy cucumbers, the vinegared unagi was refreshing and appetizing.  The umaki was fluffy and stuffed full of unagi.  The inside of the omelette was still runny and hence the texture was silky.  Since the grilled unagi was stuffed inside, the texture was softer, unlike the crispier ones found in the unadon.

On that note, here we found the Osaka Mamushi featuring plenty of crispy grilled eel.  There are three options for the amount of eel.  This one is Sakura, which is right in the middle at 7450 yen.  Atop of the fluffy, yet still chewy rice, the grilled eel wasn't melt-in-our-mouths tender.  Rather, it had a chew to it with some crispiness while the inside was indeed soft.  Due to the minimal sauce on the eel, it was not as sweet, so we could get the smokiness.

So the most unique way of eating grilled eel is in the form of Hitsumabushi or what is called here: Ohitu-Mamushi.  This involves a four-step process.  First, you eat the eel with the rice to get baseline flavour.  Second, you add the wasabi, green onion and nori for a different taste.  Third, you pour the dashi into the bowl and eat it like a soup.  Last step is to eat it however you like!  I've done this a few times before and my favourite step is adding the dashi as it soften things up and adds an extra level of aroma.  When it was all said and done, we were full and satisfied.  My wallet was quite a bit lighter too.  The staff there are super nice, they even took pictures for us in front of the restaurant.  Depending on your budget, this would be worth a visit.

The Good:

- The eel is prepared differently being crispy on the outside and not oversauced

- Focused menu serving only eel

- Like everywhere we have gone, the people are super nice

The Bad:

- Expensive

- May be hard to get a table during peak times

Ichiran Ramen Dotonbori South 一蘭 道頓堀店別館

While we were planning for our trip to Japan, Ichiran Ramen was definitely on our list of places to try.  However, we were not originally going to visit the Dononbori South shop while we were in Osaka.  But since we were hungry and we were walking past it, we made a last minute decision to grab some Ichiran.  For those who don't know, Ichiran started as Fukuoka Ramen in 1966.  It is known for its unique solo dining concept with individual stalls that have their own water station and condiments.  Also, their ramen is affordable (approximately $12.00CAD per bowl) and super tasty with a rich broth.

Although it was not quite dinner time when we arrived, there was still a small lineup.  It did move fast though after we ordered from the self-serve kiosks.  Not that there are a lot of options, but you choose what you want in your ramen, any extra chashu, ramen egg and beverage.  You pay and then take you seat when it becomes available.  You really do not have to interact with anyone as the food comes out from the cutout. 

There is an option to choose a spice level (similar to Ramen Danbo) as it is Fukuoka-style Tonkotsu Ramen.  For Viv's she went for no spice and that allowed for a more pronounced rich pork broth flavour.  There was a silkiness to the broth, yet at the same time, it wasn't too heavy either.  Salt content was high though, so things were definitely flavourful.  Thin noodles were al dente as she chose the firm noodle option.

For myself, I went for the a bit of spice and extra firm noodles.  Definitely chewier than Viv's bowl.  I thought the hint of spice helped mask some of the saltiness.  I got the extra side of chashu and it was buttery soft and aromatic.  As for the egg, it had a beautiful custardy centre.  The cold Asahi was the perfect compliment to the ramen as it balanced out the saltiness.  In the end, the ramen was good and the price, even better.  Grabbed some instant ramen to go and yah, it is also good!  Cheaper in Japan too...  Would visit another location when we are back.

The Good:
- Inexpensive
- Rich tonkotsu broth
- Love the option of spice

The Bad:
- Normally a wait, but it moves
- A bit salty for some people

Naniwa Okina なにわ 翁

Wanting to go for something light, we decided to hit up Naniwa Okina in Osaka.  This Michelin Bib Gourmand spot is small and cozy featuring handmade soba noodles.  It was a bit of a walk from the Kitahama Station, especially in the scorching heat (in July).  Glad their A/C held up for the time we were there.  People are super nice there and they have an English menu.  They will walk you though everything!

Viv went for the most flavourful of the options in the Zaru Soba with Herring.  There was a strong fishiness to the dipping broth, but it was all good as it was appealing and delicious.  The herring itself was firm but not dry.  Obviously, the noodles were the best part being chewy, a bit gooey, yet not clumpy.  Good resistance on them and rebound.  After dipping them into the hot broth, they loosened up and had a silkier texture.

For my daughter, she went for the Duck Soba, which, like the herring, was full of meaty pieces.  Unfortunately, we found the duck to be a bit chewy and dry despite sitting in the the dipping broth.  However, the broth itself had plenty of depth, much like the herring.  It was full of umami, being also sweet and equally savoury with some duckiness.  I felt this equally flavourful compared to the herring, but just not fishy.

My son ended up with the Beef Soba which was probably the best of the bunch since the meat was plentiful and tender (they use Japanese black beef).  The dipping broth itself was much like the others having depth-of-flavour that was more savoury than sweet, but not salty.  Of course we found the usual umaminess that was partially influenced by the natural beef flavour.  This was the most balanced of the three dipping sauces in my opinion.

For myself, I went for a seasonal item in the Cold Oyster Summer Soba.  Yes, this was completely different than the aforementioned dishes, but it was intentional.  Yah, I really didn't get full considering the portion size but it was really refreshing for a hot day.  Definitely had that briny and sea-tasting oyster thing going on while the jelly offered up some tanginess.  I thought the texture of the cold noodles were superior to the steamed ones.  Nice chew and bounce to them.  At the end of the meal, we were served some soba water (from cooking the noodles) to get one last taste of the fresh soba noodles.  Overall, we enjoyed our meal at Naniwa Okina.  The noodles were great and so was the service.  Prices are definitely on the higher side, so be prepared to pay.

The Good:
- Chewy fresh noodles
- Dipping noodles great for summer
- Staff are helpful

The Bad:
- A little pricey

Halo Kitchen & Bistro 光輪

Some would argue that going on a cruise is not the best way to see Japan.  Well, I will partially agree with that since going on a cruise is never a great way to experience places since most ports only get a day.  When I say "a day", that would mean something like 8 hours, if you are lucky.  I've been on some cruises where there are overnight stays and that helps a bit, but generally, you would be best served doing a land vacation where you can be at a location for at least 5 days to get the full experience.  However, on the flipside, for smaller towns, a day is more than enough for a visit.  That brings us to Shimizu, our first port on our 12-day Japanese cruise aboard the Celebrity Millennium.  We didn't end up doing very much here since the fish market was closed (on a Wednesday).  We did wander around and the people were very nice.  It was also cloudy and we only got a brief outline of Mt. Fuji.  For lunch, we ended up at "Halo" Kitchen & Bistro for some Yoshoku cuisine (Japanese version of Western dishes).  This place has been around since 1972 and is very reasonably-priced.  After we sat down, the place was packed!

For myself, I had to go for their Halo Lunch that consisted of a pork katsu, spaghetti and fish with a bowl of rice, cream soup, salad and coffee (at the end).  This was only 900 yen (approx. $8.00cad)!   The small cutlet featured an airy and crisy panko coating that was beautifully fried.  The pork itself was nicely marbled and super light.  It was moist and buttery tender.  As for the small piece of fish, it was seared just enough that it was cooked through, but was also flaky and buttery soft.

My son went for the Hamburg Steak which was covered in a delicious and rich gravy.  It was so flavourful and full of umami with just a slight tang at the end.  The hamburger steak itself was plump and evenly seared on the outside.  As for the inside, the meat was fluffy and tender with it taking on the sauce very well.  When eaten with the rice, it was a delicious bite.  The side of cream soup was slightly viscous and had lots of natural milk flavour with some saltiness.

My daughter had another classic Yoshoku dish in the Curry Doria.  Originally conceived in the Hotel New Grand in Yohohama, this featured rice topped with curry and cheeses (usually parmesan and gruyere) with some type of meat.  It was chicken in this case.  We found the version here to be flavourful with a rich curry that had depth from the spices, but it wasn't spicy.  Rather, it had a good balance of sweet and savoury with plenty of cheesiness.

For Viv, she had the Curry Loin Katsu with the sauce served on the side.  This ensured that the katsu remained crispy.  It wasn't greasy and the panko coating was not dense.  Inside, the meat was also airy and light.  It was tender and succulent.  Served on a bed of chewy rice, it accepted the delicious curry sauce well.  At the end, we were served a coffee and the kids were served juice.  I can't say enough how good of a deal this place is.  To top it off, the food is delicious.  Oh and the people are super nice.  A must try when you are in Shimizu!

The Good:
- Cheap!
- Delicious
- Super nice people

The Bad:
- Well, if you arrive late, you won't get a seat